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Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!
- Thread starter seth247
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that sucker may or may not fit, but you are going to have to run 90 degree fittings right into it, with the canton I have 1/4" MAX clearance between oil filter mount and steering box
1/4" is NOT ALOT
running brass fittings into that adapter, deep enough so they make the 90 degree bend and clear the steering box is just asking for trouble, you will be stuck with the fittings pointing in the direction they end up opinting at when the adapter is finally tight to the block, for all you know that could be 90 degrees from where you want them coming out, the two 90 degree elbows willbe hitting each other if you can even get them pointed in the right rdirection, one may shoot straight up the other to towards the firewall, do you see what I am saying?
Now you have hoses attached to fittings plumbed into the adapter down behind your steering box that you cannot service, the hose clamps, etc will be BURIED, you have to pull the engine up ALOT to get in there, and it would still be a huge PITA with the steering box, ac compressor, fuel lines, ac lines etc all trying to occupy that space
Have to raise the engine 4-6" just to attempt to service it, you do NOT want to skimp here
ON top of all that "pot" metal oil filter adapters LEAK, thats all there is to it.
Get the Canton billet 360 degree adapter, you can still use a cheapo remote filter mount, but put the Canton mount on the side of your block, it is billet, it turns the hoses 90 degrees for you, it will not leak, and you can turn it any way you want to run your hoses.
I think I paid $60 for the Canton? Worth every penny for peace of mind!!
I have a "be cool" cheapo oil filter mount for my FL-1a filter, I also ran my mechanical oil pressure gage to the be cool filter mount, I plugged the other open hole..... (4 way adapter)
I am running a Carter $35 OEM fuel pump in my tank, works just fine for me! plenty of fuel rail pressure even at WOT
1/4" is NOT ALOT
running brass fittings into that adapter, deep enough so they make the 90 degree bend and clear the steering box is just asking for trouble, you will be stuck with the fittings pointing in the direction they end up opinting at when the adapter is finally tight to the block, for all you know that could be 90 degrees from where you want them coming out, the two 90 degree elbows willbe hitting each other if you can even get them pointed in the right rdirection, one may shoot straight up the other to towards the firewall, do you see what I am saying?
Now you have hoses attached to fittings plumbed into the adapter down behind your steering box that you cannot service, the hose clamps, etc will be BURIED, you have to pull the engine up ALOT to get in there, and it would still be a huge PITA with the steering box, ac compressor, fuel lines, ac lines etc all trying to occupy that space
Have to raise the engine 4-6" just to attempt to service it, you do NOT want to skimp here
ON top of all that "pot" metal oil filter adapters LEAK, thats all there is to it.
Get the Canton billet 360 degree adapter, you can still use a cheapo remote filter mount, but put the Canton mount on the side of your block, it is billet, it turns the hoses 90 degrees for you, it will not leak, and you can turn it any way you want to run your hoses.
I think I paid $60 for the Canton? Worth every penny for peace of mind!!
I have a "be cool" cheapo oil filter mount for my FL-1a filter, I also ran my mechanical oil pressure gage to the be cool filter mount, I plugged the other open hole..... (4 way adapter)
I am running a Carter $35 OEM fuel pump in my tank, works just fine for me! plenty of fuel rail pressure even at WOT
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ooops edit--
walbro 307 for return fuel system
On left is the walbro GSS307-GSS340 pickup ( 340 is for high pressure returnless)
middle is GSS341, right is GSS342.
you want the large pickup sock connection
walbro 307 for return fuel system
On left is the walbro GSS307-GSS340 pickup ( 340 is for high pressure returnless)
middle is GSS341, right is GSS342.
you want the large pickup sock connection
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it might fit, but pointing the hoses and gettng the 90 degree elbows to clear your steering box will suck!
what engine mounts are you using? I forgot
what engine mounts are you using? I forgot
seth247
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foxbody mustang if I can fit them.
Or steel plate adapter to v6 ones if I can't.
The motor mounts that came on my engine are almost the same as the ones on my stock v6.
Or steel plate adapter to v6 ones if I can't.
The motor mounts that came on my engine are almost the same as the ones on my stock v6.
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yep Almost the same, but they dont fit your engine cradle at all! LOL
I vote build em, if I was to do it again I would (and will if I ever have the V8 out)
some simple plate, some leaf spring bushings, weld/drill and BLAMO
I vote build em, if I was to do it again I would (and will if I ever have the V8 out)
some simple plate, some leaf spring bushings, weld/drill and BLAMO
seth247
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leaf spring bushings?
Nah man just need new v6 mounts and some 1/4" steel plate...
And when I say they are similar I mean REALLY... the only difference I can tell is the way the mount bolts to the block. The v8 mount bolts into the engine vertically. While the v6 has the bolt holes in the side horizontally.
Nah man just need new v6 mounts and some 1/4" steel plate...
And when I say they are similar I mean REALLY... the only difference I can tell is the way the mount bolts to the block. The v8 mount bolts into the engine vertically. While the v6 has the bolt holes in the side horizontally.
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lol yeah but I dont want stock rubber glued to metal mounts in my wheeler, I want a nice solid connection, so I would use urethane bushings in the mounts, similar to my modified AutoFAB trans mount
I believe AutoFAb makes some nice urethane mount V8 conversion mounts for the Gen I Ex also LOL but anytime you say Autofab think $$$$$$ (worth every penny in most cases!), but so simple to duplicate
use the v8 engine plates and drill new holes for the V8 mounts in your engine cradle, many people have gone this route
I believe AutoFAb makes some nice urethane mount V8 conversion mounts for the Gen I Ex also LOL but anytime you say Autofab think $$$$$$ (worth every penny in most cases!), but so simple to duplicate
use the v8 engine plates and drill new holes for the V8 mounts in your engine cradle, many people have gone this route
seth247
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I bought some polyeurethane foxbody mounts awhile back and hopefully those will work.
There is a pick of them in ryans thread on the first page I think.
There is a pick of them in ryans thread on the first page I think.
Spdrcer34
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I am going to make a 'jig' for placement of the Fox Body Mounts in the Explorer Frame.
I'm hoping to get it made tomorrow...depending on the weather.
Ryan
I'm hoping to get it made tomorrow...depending on the weather.
Ryan
Spdrcer34
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Yeah...something like that...
I'll be posting pics on my thread to show you how to do it.
You don't have a 2nd gen sitting in your driveway. I still do, so I have the PERFECT mock-up for spacing.
Ryan
I'll be posting pics on my thread to show you how to do it.
You don't have a 2nd gen sitting in your driveway. I still do, so I have the PERFECT mock-up for spacing.
Ryan
seth247
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got the tail shaft/housing from jamie. (thanks again)
so now i need to buy some supplies for the rebuild and i can get started on the trans.
then deal with the fact that my tcase has no speedo gear. then get pistons. then have the rotating assembly ballanced . then get a radiator. then finish out the motor with spark plugs and such. then throw everything together. then drop it in the truck.(only take a few minutes right?)
so now i need to buy some supplies for the rebuild and i can get started on the trans.
then deal with the fact that my tcase has no speedo gear. then get pistons. then have the rotating assembly ballanced . then get a radiator. then finish out the motor with spark plugs and such. then throw everything together. then drop it in the truck.(only take a few minutes right?)
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actually compared to all that and the wiring, bolting it up was super easy! I spent more time finding radiator hoses then I did stabbing the trans LOL
What year PCM are you using? If its 98+ then I believe you can replace your rear axle speedo sensor with a 98 style sensor and use it to feed the PCM the VSS signal?
But the speedometer itself is cable driven, this requires the speedo in the t case, exactly like I had to do to my 98 4406 in my 96 truck LOL
If I could do it again (I will be) my 88 would use an aftermarket electric speedo and the VSS goes in the 8.8, not the t case
What year PCM are you using? If its 98+ then I believe you can replace your rear axle speedo sensor with a 98 style sensor and use it to feed the PCM the VSS signal?
But the speedometer itself is cable driven, this requires the speedo in the t case, exactly like I had to do to my 98 4406 in my 96 truck LOL
If I could do it again (I will be) my 88 would use an aftermarket electric speedo and the VSS goes in the 8.8, not the t case
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96 needs a cable driven speedo style (96 no cable) and tailshaft style sensor = crappy
I do not think a 8.8 speed sensor will help you, the signal is different, SECTION tried similar when he went 4406 I believe and it wont work?? maybe hell chime in here
I believe you need to convert your 4406 tailhousing like I did, check my 96 4x4 conversion thread, I too had a 96 computer with a 98 4406 t case
finding the parts = PITA, doing the work = semi PITA
I do not think a 8.8 speed sensor will help you, the signal is different, SECTION tried similar when he went 4406 I believe and it wont work?? maybe hell chime in here
I believe you need to convert your 4406 tailhousing like I did, check my 96 4x4 conversion thread, I too had a 96 computer with a 98 4406 t case
finding the parts = PITA, doing the work = semi PITA
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