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My quest for 30 MPG - Ford Explorer Gas Mileage Tips




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Gas Mileage`

I can vouch for his mileage, I have a 2001 Sport and get 28 or so loaded with the kids and mountain bikes and all stuff. The ford emissions and computer system really is sensitive to changes and the readings that the computer receives. First, my upgrades, K&N Filter with air box billow removed, Bosch Platnium 4 plugs, Bosch Otimag wires, Tornado Intake insert, Higher flow Fuel filter, Carbon remover for the top of the Pistons and the Valves used regularly, Castrol 10w-30 oil with prolong additive changed every 5,000 and the K&W five minute motor flush done every other change. Should see even better mileage with the cat back exhaust coming as soon as i get out of this desert (Iraq).

The ford system has a sensor which tells the computer what the temp of the engine coolant is. That sensor gets dirty very often from not having the coolant taken care of. (can be green as the grass and still be Acidic). When this sensor ($14.00) givesthe wrong signal it tells the engine that it is colder than it actually is and that riches the fuel mixture. This intern produces excess fuel consumption, excess carbon on the pistons ( which absorbs the heat produced for a loss of power) and coats the O2 sensor with excess hydrocarbons. The O2 sensor then tells the engine to rich or lean the system and the computer begins the back and forth changes that create a very unstable running environment for maximum fuel economy. The rich fuel mixture will also be sent back into the intake system through the PCV system and that coats the intake and Idle Air Control valve with the black sludge so many cars have in the intake. That black sludge gets picked up and sent back into the cylinders, but it doesn't burn away it gets picked up by the engine oil and coats the piston rings. Once the system is dirty enough to stop the rings from sealing against the cylinder walls it produces blowby, which creates even more sludge and grunde which is sent back through the PCV system again and everything just keeps going in a viscious cycle.
1. Do the 5 minute motor flush to loosen the sludge..twice with oil and filter change.
2. replace the engine coolant sensor, not the gauge/light sensor.
3. Change coolant or test atleast.
4. Add Carbon remover, but not to excess. Pull a plug and look with a light first and then run two tanks of gas and additive (TL3 is my favorite) and then look again.
5. High quality oil and the right additive (Prolong, I have seen fix a worn engine compression along with the process).
6. Replace fuel filter every 10,000 miles like it suggest...
7. Intake filter any are better than the paper ones....
8. Switch to Platinuim 4 plugs There is no way around the best.....
9. Clean or replace the IAC Valve ($40 or so). Ten minute replacement.
10. tire pressure,tire pressure,tire pressure.........

ASE Certified and Welcome all questions?? Keep all Smart Comments for when you talk about me offline..
 






I can vouch for his mileage, I have a 2001 Sport and get 28 or so loaded with the kids and mountain bikes and all stuff. The ford emissions and computer system really is sensitive to changes and the readings that the computer receives. First, my upgrades, K&N Filter with air box billow removed, Bosch Platnium 4 plugs, Bosch Otimag wires, Tornado Intake insert, Higher flow Fuel filter, Carbon remover for the top of the Pistons and the Valves used regularly, Castrol 10w-30 oil with prolong additive changed every 5,000 and the K&W five minute motor flush done every other change. Should see even better mileage with the cat back exhaust coming as soon as i get out of this desert (Iraq).

The ford system has a sensor which tells the computer what the temp of the engine coolant is. That sensor gets dirty very often from not having the coolant taken care of. (can be green as the grass and still be Acidic). When this sensor ($14.00) givesthe wrong signal it tells the engine that it is colder than it actually is and that riches the fuel mixture. This intern produces excess fuel consumption, excess carbon on the pistons ( which absorbs the heat produced for a loss of power) and coats the O2 sensor with excess hydrocarbons. The O2 sensor then tells the engine to rich or lean the system and the computer begins the back and forth changes that create a very unstable running environment for maximum fuel economy. The rich fuel mixture will also be sent back into the intake system through the PCV system and that coats the intake and Idle Air Control valve with the black sludge so many cars have in the intake. That black sludge gets picked up and sent back into the cylinders, but it doesn't burn away it gets picked up by the engine oil and coats the piston rings. Once the system is dirty enough to stop the rings from sealing against the cylinder walls it produces blowby, which creates even more sludge and grunde which is sent back through the PCV system again and everything just keeps going in a viscious cycle.
1. Do the 5 minute motor flush to loosen the sludge..twice with oil and filter change.
2. replace the engine coolant sensor, not the gauge/light sensor.
3. Change coolant or test atleast.
4. Add Carbon remover, but not to excess. Pull a plug and look with a light first and then run two tanks of gas and additive (TL3 is my favorite) and then look again.
5. High quality oil and the right additive (Prolong, I have seen fix a worn engine compression along with the process).
6. Replace fuel filter every 10,000 miles like it suggest...
7. Intake filter any are better than the paper ones....
8. Switch to Platinuim 4 plugs There is no way around the best.....
9. Clean or replace the IAC Valve ($40 or so). Ten minute replacement.
10. tire pressure,tire pressure,tire pressure.........

ASE Certified and Welcome all questions?? Keep all Smart Comments for when you talk about me offline..


Very good mileage.

A few comments come to mind. The use of the +4 plugs is generally debunked by the majority. The Tornado has been proven to be worthless as far as increasing power as well as mileage is concerned. Why would you "need" a motor flush product when using a quality motor oil.

Stay safe in the big sand box.
 






The ford system has a sensor which tells the computer what the temp of the engine coolant is. That sensor gets dirty very often from not having the coolant taken care of. (can be green as the grass and still be Acidic). When this sensor ($14.00) givesthe wrong signal it tells the engine that it is colder than it actually is and that riches the fuel mixture. This intern produces excess fuel consumption, excess carbon on the pistons ( which absorbs the heat produced for a loss of power) and coats the O2 sensor with excess hydrocarbons. The O2 sensor then tells the engine to rich or lean the system and the computer begins the back and forth changes that create a very unstable running environment for maximum fuel economy. The rich fuel mixture will also be sent back into the intake system through the PCV system and that coats the intake and Idle Air Control valve with the black sludge so many cars have in the intake. That black sludge gets picked up and sent back into the cylinders, but it doesn't burn away it gets picked up by the engine oil and coats the piston rings. Once the system is dirty enough to stop the rings from sealing against the cylinder walls it produces blowby, which creates even more sludge and grunde which is sent back through the PCV system again and everything just keeps going in a viscious cycle.
ine..


The engine coolant sensor info is good--I'll do some checking of mine--

One question--
If I observe my cylinder head temperature matches my coolant temperature ( as indicated by an ELMSCAN device), wouldn't this rule out a bad ECT sensor?

edit for rephrase--

I have mechanical gauges for each cylinder head temperature readings--If they match the computer data--this should rule out the sender?
 












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Hey guys, how do you calculate how many miles and how many gallons used on the truck? My tanks always 1/4 full whenever i go to fill up.
I don't know but last week, I went to JFK airport to pick up my friend, and I brought 6 Gallons before I went and when I back home, I probably had 3 or 4 gallons left. and thats about a 50mile trip.
 






Hey guys, how do you calculate how many miles and how many gallons used on the truck? My tanks always 1/4 full whenever i go to fill up.
I don't know but last week, I went to JFK airport to pick up my friend, and I brought 6 Gallons before I went and when I back home, I probably had 3 or 4 gallons left. and thats about a 50mile trip.

Fill your tank, then reset your odometer. Drive Truck. On next refill,divide miles driven by how many gallons it takes to refill. Your result is MPG

do this several times for an acccurate assesment.

It is not uncommon for the tank to have as much as 3 gallons in it, when the gauge reads "E".
:)
 






Alright, so should I wait untill the gas light comes on and then buy gas? btw: how many gallons is there in the tank when the light comes on.
 






When the light comes on. I think there are at least 2 gallons or so. I have driven it way into the "E" till my fill up was like 21.5 gallons. If you want accurate mileage, don't top it off. When it clicks off then your done. That way your not adding too much fuel and having differences on other fills.
 






Alright, so should I wait untill the gas light comes on and then buy gas? btw: how many gallons is there in the tank when the light comes on.

You can get fuel whenever you want. All you need do is fill it up and divide the miles traveled by the gallons consumed to compute mileage.
 






Ditto, the key is to always record the fuel and miles traveled. You calculate mileage each time, and the accurate mileage is obvious, or averaged by the MPG results.

If you get 20mpg one time, and 14mpg the next, it is not accurate to say that you get 20mpg sometimes, and 14mpg sometimes. The tank was not filled the first time, and the next tank was filled more than the first.

Look at the ongoing mileages as trends. Watch the change, and see that the real mileage is more like 17mpg or so in my example. Regards,
 






You can get fuel whenever you want. All you need do is fill it up and divide the miles traveled by the gallons consumed to compute mileage.

I'm thinkin' one possible variable is the pavement angle where you fill up.

If you're parked at a pump where the pavement tilts to the left, you may not get the same amount of fuel into the tank at "fill up" as you did at a pump where the pavement tilts the other way.
 






I think they must have perfectly level surface at the pumps. I have never seen anything but what looks like level concrete ground in gas stations.

I can't confirm that, so I am gonna start filling up after I check the floor with my 4' level....ok maybe not.

I don't think its a factor.
 






A tank of gas can last me a month in my 1993 ford explorer XL.
 












Opps did i forget to mention that part.. :)

I like to ride my bicycle... damn now that song is in my head.. :)
 






I have never seen anything but what looks like level concrete ground in gas stations.

There may be regs in certain states; I don't know. I have in mind a particular Dallas Exxon at IH-35E and Camp Wisdom Rd. that's laid out like a carnival fun house.
 



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Let me post a update on what I am doing...

Monday night, I've brought $20 of $3.13/G, and thats about 6.7G, plus the remaining 2G in the tank. Today I put 40Miles on the car and the tank is 1/4 full right now. I think this is good. I drove not to aggressive, but not too slow or easy neither. I tried to stay on 1,5K RPM between 2,5k RPM. Hmm, Auto Strauss also has this fuel system cleaning for $70 after their rebate, I guess I'm going to go with that, plus more $$ for the parts needed. If after that, if my fuel economy doesn't get better, I'm going to go get a Honda Civic :p:
 






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