Fredness
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- June 2, 2000
- Messages
- 722
- Reaction score
- 75
- City, State
- Tejas!
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '05 Sport Trac Adrenalin
Well, after 3 Explorers, it's finally happened to me. The dreaded 2-3 Flare. The worst part is the total loss of overdrive (O/D Light flashing), the flare is tolerable (for now), but a 20%+ loss of fuel economy could be a show stopper.
Since I have a flash tuner, I can bump the shift pressure up, and all the symptoms go away - but witht he trans pressure up 10-15%, it makes the trans shift at stock like pressure due to the leakage (I supect). No clue if this is a long term patch, or just something to get me by, so I'm taking the dive...
While there are a dozen or more threads on the subject, they tend to get mired in too many problems at once. So, here goes, I'm going to document ONE ISSUE, start to finish, and hopefully avoid some confusion.
The subject of this is a 2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin with 70,000 miles. It has the standard aftermarket upgrades; catback, intake, and tune. Aside from the "new shoes", it is original and pampered - no thrashing, just some light towing (a 2005 Tacoma 4x4 with a failed tranny) and building supplies for a retaining wall. The worst was probably the 1,320lb load of gravel (Sport Trac 4x4 weighed in at 4,570 driverless).
First, the "need" list: This is our "Get-Out-Of-Dodge" (G.O.O.D.) vehicle. We live in a rural area, subject to 8-14" of snow at a time, this has had us shut in for up to 10 days at a time. The '98 Sport didn't meet our occupancy needs, wasn't 4x4 and actually got stuck to the axles in our driveway - not good. So, now we have a 4x4, with the seating/storage we want, but the trans must be 100% - with the ability to tow vehicles at will. Obviously, we're not there, but in stock trim and in good repair, the vehicle can handle our needs unmodified (VERY important).
Then, the "want" list: I want to upgrade anything that breaks, that's just how I roll . So, the trans needs to be back at 100%, known 5R55e issues fixed, with increased fluid capacity, external filtering (for particulate matter and not just "chunks"), and NO clamped rubber connections that can leave us stranded. All filters must be standardized (3/4"-18 threads) to use the same filters for oil/trans/etc:
AC® Tight Fit PF13, Full Length PF2
FRAM® Tight Fit PH43, Full Length PH8A
LEE® Tight Fit LF16, Full Length LF1
Mobil1® Tight Fit MO1A, Full Length M1-301
MOTORCRAFT® Tight Fit FL173A, Full Length FL1A
NAPA® Tight Fit 1068, Full Length 1515
PERMA-COOL® Tight Fit 81043, Full Length 81008
PUROLATOR® Tight Fit PER17, Full Length PER1A
WIX® Tight Fit 51068, Full Length 51515
...and so on.
The plan:
I have ordered a deep sump pan with a drain plug from PML, and the modified valve body from Donny @ Central Valve Body.
Deep Pan PML $241
Modified Valve Body CVB $247.49
The plan is to get some data logs and testing BEFORE the swap. I want to flush the trans, then swap the VB (even though the fluid looks OK). This way I can limit the amount of contamination I'll be subjecting the VB to. The plan is to flush with low dollar bargain fluid, and make sure all is well prior to dropping $162.05 on Amsoil ATF.
The factory radiator is good, so I can't justify dropping $200 on a new two row radiator with heat exchanger
The factory cooler measures 10"x7"x<1" (approx 14,000GVW), it is corroded and has broken rivets on all mounts - it just flops around. Once the trans is up and running (and data logged), I'll step up to the B&M SuperCooler (20,500 GVW).
If you follow the manufacturer’s instructions, the filter is supposed to go BEFORE the radiator, and cooler. But, if we do this, any contamination remaining in the coolers (post-flush) can make their way right back to the transmission. In this case I'll be putting the filter after the radiator, and before the new/unused B&M Plate Cooler. To avoid the HORROR of factory hose and worm gear clamps [gak!], I'll be stepping up to -6 AN 350psi nylon braided hose and automotive AN fittings.
So, here we go...
{Edits in red}
Since I have a flash tuner, I can bump the shift pressure up, and all the symptoms go away - but witht he trans pressure up 10-15%, it makes the trans shift at stock like pressure due to the leakage (I supect). No clue if this is a long term patch, or just something to get me by, so I'm taking the dive...
While there are a dozen or more threads on the subject, they tend to get mired in too many problems at once. So, here goes, I'm going to document ONE ISSUE, start to finish, and hopefully avoid some confusion.
The subject of this is a 2005 Explorer Sport Trac Adrenalin with 70,000 miles. It has the standard aftermarket upgrades; catback, intake, and tune. Aside from the "new shoes", it is original and pampered - no thrashing, just some light towing (a 2005 Tacoma 4x4 with a failed tranny) and building supplies for a retaining wall. The worst was probably the 1,320lb load of gravel (Sport Trac 4x4 weighed in at 4,570 driverless).
First, the "need" list: This is our "Get-Out-Of-Dodge" (G.O.O.D.) vehicle. We live in a rural area, subject to 8-14" of snow at a time, this has had us shut in for up to 10 days at a time. The '98 Sport didn't meet our occupancy needs, wasn't 4x4 and actually got stuck to the axles in our driveway - not good. So, now we have a 4x4, with the seating/storage we want, but the trans must be 100% - with the ability to tow vehicles at will. Obviously, we're not there, but in stock trim and in good repair, the vehicle can handle our needs unmodified (VERY important).
Then, the "want" list: I want to upgrade anything that breaks, that's just how I roll . So, the trans needs to be back at 100%, known 5R55e issues fixed, with increased fluid capacity, external filtering (for particulate matter and not just "chunks"), and NO clamped rubber connections that can leave us stranded. All filters must be standardized (3/4"-18 threads) to use the same filters for oil/trans/etc:
AC® Tight Fit PF13, Full Length PF2
FRAM® Tight Fit PH43, Full Length PH8A
LEE® Tight Fit LF16, Full Length LF1
Mobil1® Tight Fit MO1A, Full Length M1-301
MOTORCRAFT® Tight Fit FL173A, Full Length FL1A
NAPA® Tight Fit 1068, Full Length 1515
PERMA-COOL® Tight Fit 81043, Full Length 81008
PUROLATOR® Tight Fit PER17, Full Length PER1A
WIX® Tight Fit 51068, Full Length 51515
...and so on.
The plan:
I have ordered a deep sump pan with a drain plug from PML, and the modified valve body from Donny @ Central Valve Body.
Deep Pan PML $241
Modified Valve Body CVB $247.49
The plan is to get some data logs and testing BEFORE the swap. I want to flush the trans, then swap the VB (even though the fluid looks OK). This way I can limit the amount of contamination I'll be subjecting the VB to. The plan is to flush with low dollar bargain fluid, and make sure all is well prior to dropping $162.05 on Amsoil ATF.
The factory radiator is good, so I can't justify dropping $200 on a new two row radiator with heat exchanger
The factory cooler measures 10"x7"x<1" (approx 14,000GVW), it is corroded and has broken rivets on all mounts - it just flops around. Once the trans is up and running (and data logged), I'll step up to the B&M SuperCooler (20,500 GVW).
If you follow the manufacturer’s instructions, the filter is supposed to go BEFORE the radiator, and cooler. But, if we do this, any contamination remaining in the coolers (post-flush) can make their way right back to the transmission. In this case I'll be putting the filter after the radiator, and before the new/unused B&M Plate Cooler. To avoid the HORROR of factory hose and worm gear clamps [gak!], I'll be stepping up to -6 AN 350psi nylon braided hose and automotive AN fittings.
So, here we go...
{Edits in red}