Not another V8 swap thread (N2Ford)

[RangerSVT]

So, I hit the yard today after some pats parts and driveshafts. Got almost all I was after. I got the pats parts, ended up getting the ECU, pats module, and ignition key module all from the same truck...

And I ended up getting a front driveshaft from an expedition. I will have to get a 1310 to 1330 U joint conversion for it to work though, I've heard this is needed for all the 4406 swaps I've read....

Unfortunately, I found about 4 trucks that the rear shaft was the right length, but was damaged (in the shape of a horseshoe) from being lifted. I did find what will work though, to make it easier to find off the shelf replacements. F150 reg cab short bed 2wd with a 117 wheelbase, or a reg cab long bed 4wd with a wheelbase of 133, from the mid 80's through 96 would work. Not sure on later 90's trucks as there were none in the yard, but if the wheelbase matches, it should work. Neither the 2wd or the 4wd expedition was the correct length. Gonna have to hit another yard to try to locate one...

SVT

 

[just1me]

Nice score on the PCM, and Pats parts, did it come with the Pats key?

 

[RangerSVT]

Unfortunately, no key around. I'll probably attach a chip to the receiver module, reprogram to introduce the parts to each other, so we can keep the sport trac key. The bedcover and tailgate all share the same key, dont want david to start carrying around multiple keys....

SVT

 

[CDW6212R]

Unfortunately, no key around. I'll probably attach a chip to the receiver module, reprogram to introduce the parts to each other, so we can keep the sport trac key. The bedcover and tailgate all share the same key, dont want david to start carrying around multiple keys....

SVT

Can you get the PCM and PATS module erased of the PATS codes? If you can get that done without too much trouble(the special programmer), then it accepts any key code to it for the first two keys. The Ford tech who did mine in 2007 has retired.

 

[RangerSVT]

I've got a ford scantool that can reprogram the keys, the same the dealer does...

SVT

 

[N2FORD]

If I remember correct I brought the only two keys I have to you. I thought I had a front driveshaft in that stuff I brought.

 

[CDW6212R]

I've got a ford scantool that can reprogram the keys, the same the dealer does...

SVT

Excellent, with that you can wipe a system clean, and then it's easy for the owner to start fresh with their choice of keys.

With my 91 Lincoln I've got an 03 Marauder steering column to use(to get the clock spring(more wires)), and I could choose to use the 98 Explorer PCM and the PATS. I've been aiming to get a late 97 PCM and ski the PATS, to also leave out the PATS wiring labor.

I need to ask James if he knows which PCM system is better to use, or if it makes no difference for programming. Each has different signals(differences in the wiring diagrams) and not all are used in both.

 

[RangerSVT]

David, I tried using that shaft (and every one in my collection, including the ones you brought, also tried mix matching), it was about an inch too long. I thought I had the right setup today, but it turns out the splines were wrong. Tried two more junkyards today, same luck I had at mine, had a couple trucks with the right length, but were bent up from being moved. I can make one, but it might have a slight vibration. It'd work til you get it balanced or replaced with an ebay unit...
david, the only key I have is the one in the ignition with the key fob, unless you left it in the glovebox or something...

SVT

 

[ttbit]

Congrats on getting it started!

 

[RangerSVT]

So, with my phone dead til about noon, I got both driveshafts modded and installed. I chose to weld on the correct ends rather than run conversion joints, as they tend to be a weak link. Didn't get any pics of that, but I'll try to remember to get them when I do the exhaust, which I had planned to do today, but it'll be tomorrow morning. I also did the tach mod, which involves removing the instrument cluster, removing the black/yellow wire from pin 8 of the 10 pin connector...

...removing the pin out of the harness for the 10 pin connector...

...and installing the wire into the harness for the 16 pin connector in pin 16....

Here the pin is installed in the empty slot...

Then I started taking the column apart for the pats wiring. I swapped out the pats transceiver around the ignition cylinder. I found the key in ignition sensor was broke, so to keep it in place I zip-tied the connector in place. If you look closely, you can see the retaining clip that broke off in the bottom of the cylinder. I don't know if I broke it or not, but I didn't have to remove it or mess with it...

I started reviewing the notes in the pats E to B swap, and notes are inconsistent. So I'm researching now how I can go about wiring it in. I had a spare key that I got somewhere along my way that didn't fit anything, but I got it just for the chip inside the key, which I used for this swap. So for now, this is where the progress ends as I need to research the pats...

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Ok, got the diagram for the pats on a 99 5.0 explorer, no where near as complicated as it seems, but I didn't look at the Ford schematics til just now. The pats communicates to the ECU via the data link connector, thats it. 4 wires goes from the pats module to the pats transceiver, one ground, one ignition and one constant hot, thats it. I'll get that wired in tonight after supper and reprogram the ecu...

SVT

 

[RangerSVT]

Today's progress...
Got the exhaust done, pics bring the suck as the sun was messing with the auto light focus...

Here are the driveshafts installed...

For the pats install, it was installed next to the steering column, just behind the access panel. Power and ground wires were tied into the instrument cluster wiring, and the data link wires were tied into the diagnostic port...

This is what I used to reprogram the keys...

And I was unnsuccessful at it. I can't tell if I the previous keys were erased from memory or not, as I was having connectivity issues with some actions I was trying to perform. As of right now, the pats is shutting down system, verified by both a no start condition and a 1260 code. I took the ecu from my trac and installed it in the red trac, and it started, I took my SCT handheld and returned the ecu back to stock. 2 minutes later, on a stock tune, I had a no start condition. I reloaded my pats deleted tune to my ecu in David's truck, and 2 minutes later, the truck started.
What this tells me is the wiring is correct, that I'm having problems reprogramming David's ecu. At this point, since my Rotunda is having problems reprogramming the keys to the ecu (also tried reprogramming the gears and tire size, no go), I'm down to two choices, bring it to a dealer for a reprogram, or get a tuner and delete the pats. Talking to David now about options...

SVT

 

[ttbit]

At least if you get a tuner, he'll have options for tune changes in the future... You know...for the Kenne Bell or cam.

 

[RangerSVT]

So, I took my pats deleted ecu and installed it in David's trac, and went for its first test drive. I could already tell its got more power than mine has, and its got a miss to it. Initially i have the CEL on. Ran down the road, no speedometer. Got it up to around 60 mph or so, and there's a slight driveline vibration, but that was to be expected as the driveshafts need balancing. Got back to the house, checked the plug wires. One of them has a pretty bad cut on it, and its near a metal bracket, so it made sense the more load the engine was under, the worse the miss was. Ran the codes, I have two, 0113 (IAT sensor reading high) and 0500 (vss malfunction). The high IAT reading could be that im using the 98 maf. The vss, could either be the rear vss (doubtful as it was working before), the oss in the trans, or an issue with the wiring. I'll double check the wiring and see.
I have another issue that majically appeared. The shifter will not shift out of park with the key off or in the run position. You have to turn the key slightly, then the interlock releases allowing you to pull on the shift lever toward the driver. With the key in the on position the interlock engages, acting like the key is off. Only thing I did was remove the ignition key cylinder to swap out the pats transceiver. The interlock is further down by the ignition switch, which is strange that its acting up.
The alternator gauge is reading a little low, but the alternator light isn't on, and the voltage is in spec, but barely. Not really concerned with this.
The other thing is the tcase, its shifts from 2hi to 4hi, but wont shift to 4lo. Since the ecu can't detect the vss at this point, it won't shift to low range. I'm pretty sure once the vss is corrected, it'll shift to low range...

SVT

 

[CDW6212R]

How does the shifter lever feel, is it at all loose? I just bought the four parts to tighten that up in mine, high mileage etc, wears out a couple of things there(two bushings and shaft/housing). At Ford they were about $45 two weeks ago. I think the interlock is near the bottom of that assembly, also check to see if any of those bolts got loose.

 

[RangerSVT]

Decided to go with a tuner and delete pats. Haven't looked at the shifter yet, there is some play. I'll look at it tomorrow morning again, but around 2 I'm leaving to go to the offroad expo in Louisville, so I won't get it finished this week like I planned. Still scratching my head on the speedo, its done almost exactly as mine is...

SVT

 

[CDW6212R]

Decided to go with a tuner and delete pats. Haven't looked at the shifter yet, there is some play. I'll look at it tomorrow morning again, but around 2 I'm leaving to go to the offroad expo in Louisville, so I won't get it finished this week like I planned. Still scratching my head on the speedo, its done almost exactly as mine is...

SVT

Age maybe, my speedometer died about six months ago, at 16 years old. It worked for about a mile each day, more on cold mornings, and then stopped until the next time I drove it.

 

[RangerSVT]

Doubtful, but possible. It worked before the swap. It'd be highly coincidental that the speedo went out the exact same time the swap was performed. Didn't have time to check it out today, it'll be next week before I can look at it...
Thinking of undoing the speedo wiring putting it back to stock, and piggybacking the stock 4.0l ecu to do speedometer duties. The sensors would be paralleled to both ecu's, but the 5.0l would be for operating the motor. Idk at this point. I'll take a couple days to think about it...

SVT

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm sure it'll be in the wiring and not the speedometer, given it worked before. I didn't ask about that before my comment. Look it all over well before going the extra steps of the other computer etc. It may be something simple that just hasn't been discovered yet.


I'm going to go back into my dash to do the shift linkage parts, and the instruments(I have kilometers now), when I get a 97 face panel and new LED bulbs. I have a new metric cluster in my truck with the old face panel(miles), and a spare 99 cluster that had the odometer go out in 2007. I'm hoping I can use the spare speedometer I have, and fix the odometer(motor), plus change it all to a blue display.

 

[ttbit]

I am sure you'll figure out the speedo issue. I believe my year ST speedo uses the sensor in the rear diff and my EEC uses the sensor in my transmission to shift and not get vss errors. Funny how this stuff gets cloudy over the years.

You're almost there now!