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nssj2's SAS 5.0 Build

Here goes nothing. Time to get rid of the IFS and go soild. Just picked up the Dana 44 yesterday, so I guess I'm allowed to start my thread. The planning thread is here. I'm hoping to have this wrapped up in a month or so, and I'm sorry in advance for the newbie questions lol.

So this is what's going down.
97 Mountaineer 5.0 w/ 4406

Front:
79 HP Dana 44 FW, 4.56 gears, Superior chrome moly axles and soild ujoints, warn premium hubs, tbird calipers
Wild Horses 12" Extended radius arms, 4* bushings (need 7*)
6" Deaver Coils
12" travel procomp 9000 shocks
93 Toyota IFS Steering box
79 Bronco tie rods
Track bar from BC broncos
2010 Jeep Wrangler drag link
mystery pitman arm
94 aerostar steering intermediate shaft, lengthened 4"

Rear:
94 Ford 8.8, 4.56, aussie locked
SOA
4" superlift springs
explorer disc brakes
87 jeep cj7 rotors


Tires: 35x12.5 Goodyear MTR's
Wheels: American racing black classic
And a couple pics, of course.
001.jpg

002.jpg



Stay tuned!
 


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Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links, can add their own profile photo, upload photo attachments in all forums, and Media Gallery, create and save more private conversations, and more. Join Today. Your support is greatly appreciated.








nssj2

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Thanks! yeah im just waiting on the shop to finish gearing the new axle, and welding on the new perches. Does anyone have input for what the pinion angle should be?

Also, one last loose end up front. I need to move the track bar to the inside of the frame due to a new found clearance issue. I don't see a lot of trucks with that bar mounted on the inside. Is it going to cause problems?
 




turboexplorer

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Pinion angle should be the same as factory. Reason being is your tranny will be at that same angle from the factory. When they are the same you avoid almost all Vibrations. If they are different you may have lots of vibration.
 




nssj2

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Im this close to having the junkyard come and pick this rig up. no joke. i don't know what ford god stic-o paid off, but the 8.8 completely screwed me. The disc brakes dont fit, the lsd means my locker is useless, so i should have done a 9". oh wait, i already built up the 8.8. so now im broke, with a useless axle, and a truck in pieces. i need a beer.
 




Turdle

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Have that beer, seriously. Sleep on it, give it a little time because you are going to have one bad ass truck. Not many coil sprung v8 2nd gen sas trucks out there ya know. I'm jealous. I would trade you even up in a heartbeat.
 








turboexplorer

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Been there felt that way before! Turdle has the best idea, sleep on it. Could try to find a way to sell that on another forum for the Full size bronco guys or half tons get some money back if that's the way that you end up going. Sell your locker to someone on here someone will pick it up. It WILL be one bad ass truck!
 








IZwack

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AccordRanger

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Thanks! yeah im just waiting on the shop to finish gearing the new axle, and welding on the new perches. Does anyone have input for what the pinion angle should be?

Also, one last loose end up front. I need to move the track bar to the inside of the frame due to a new found clearance issue. I don't see a lot of trucks with that bar mounted on the inside. Is it going to cause problems?

Screw the junkyard! Just hand it over to me i will gladly take it off your hands. :D
 




nssj2

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Haha, hey thanks for the encouraging words fellas. I'm just at the end of my wits here. And bank account lol. I have an open carrier in the garage, actually. But if I have to unbolt the ring gear again, I might as well say screw it and drop in a Detroit. I've made it this far without cutting corners, so what's one more part. The LSD clutch pack is toast, and the only LSD lunchbox locker is damn near $600.

On those brakes, I'm having the same problem Stic-o had with the axle shafts needing to be 1/4" longer. Which means with the backing plate on, I had to hammer the c-clip in. To get it out, well, have you ever taken a parking brake apart with the axle STILL in place? I'm bruised and bloody now lol.

The clearance issue is with the actual retaining pins on the shoes, as the wheel bolts hit them. Trim the pins down, life is good. My concern with that is let's say the truck goes on a slant, like /. All the weight is pushing the axle in, and with the axle shaft in as far as it freely goes, ie, to get the cclips out, those wheel studs hit EVERYTHING.

My idea is a short pin with an e-clip to ditch the factory design, and loose the outter spring. I never saw the result of stic-o's setup.

Any other suggestions, aside from ditch the ebrake?
 




pwhiteelec05

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With the center pin(correct term) when your on a / the axle should not shift inward. Otherwise the C-clips will fall off while driving. Just get a replacement clutch pack to last you a year to save for the detroit.
 




IZwack

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PM Stic and ask him to read your last few posts - since it seems like you are matching is setup part for part.
 




crazyflights

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Im running fullwitdh 8.8 using the explorer 8.8 disk brakes, you just have to redrill the bolt holes, and shave a little extra material off the axle shaft for the center round part to fit around it. Not difficult. I have a detroit, Might sellya for 375 from my 8.8, I would like an ARB 9in, just for strength.
 












nssj2

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So i guess I should drop an update here. The axle will be done tomorrow (they've said this last Wednesday mind you lol). I bit the bullet and got a Detroit. I really want this project done right. Hardened c-clips showed up yesterday, and the custom Currie rotors showed up today. If all goes as planned, I should have some progress pics tomorrow. The only thing left to make the rear end indestructible is to weld in the axle tubes. Is that really necessary, or just an insurance plan?
 




ranger-93

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I think it is a "should do" cuz if i read right the tubes are just held in by hard rubber plugs. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
 


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nssj2

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They are steel plugs. They function similar to a structural steel rivet from back in the day.
 




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