OMG NOOOO!! can I drop my oil pan??? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

OMG NOOOO!! can I drop my oil pan???

Turdle

DIY stunt double
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Explorer
Joined
June 16, 2003
Messages
31,581
Reaction score
3,263
City, State
Humboldt, KS
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Mounty
What started out to be a 5 minute oil change has landed me in sure despair my friends.:(:(:(:(:(

I was given a oil drain plug device to facilitate oil changes with a skid plate installed.

Since it was given to me on good advice, I went ahead and installed it. It was going in kind of tight but no big deal, as Evan said it would,
Well, something went snap and it got real easy to turn all of the sudden and yeah my oil pan is cracked--

Oh Man I really didn't need this right now--I am going to crawl into a corner now and suck my thumb


All other projects are on hold. I need to know if there is any chance of dropping the pan without engine removal, if I drop the front end components--
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





you can probally dropp the pan but u may need a engine crane to lift the engine out alil bit just undo the mounts
 












pulling the oil pan off your truck without pulling the engine is going to be VERY difficult IF POSSIBLE

I am in the same boat now JT, my 98 has no oil pressure, Just put the damn engine complete in there with all new everything... it has to come out

I wish there was a short cut? I am planning to try and pull the engine and trans together.

I do not see how the oil pan is going to clear the second gen engine cradle unless the cradle is removed like Section and Stic-O have done on their SAS rigs....

I had an engine block crack on me once, I overtightened the oil pressure sensor (tappered) JB weld held for 2 years, then once it started leaking again I tried to fix it....ended up installing a new engine over a weekend... the one Froader has now
 






Damn Jon, that really blows. What a PITA.
 






The ghetto fix (assuming there's enough room):

Remove the plug and weld a plate over the crack and the old plug hole. Cut another hole in another location and install one of those screw on drain plug kits (that doesnt require welding).
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM-G1380&N=700+115&autoview=sku
sum-g1380_w.jpg
 






to get that drain plug kit in the pan he needs to weld, otherwise you have to get to the back of the pan = mine as well replace it with the one I am sending him
 






OK, now for a dumb question, how about the rear main seal?

I have a pan on the way, fel pro gasket and seal siting on the parts counter waiting for my lovely bride to pick them up, along with
LOts of brake cleaner, because I am going to try the JB weld thing. I have fixed cracked oil pans with it before--
I think I will just jb weld the threads of the drain plug also as the hole is now mis shaped-

since it is a quick drain plug, I will not need to stress the area ever again, It might just work. I dumped a little gas in to clean the oil from inside the crack.
I will wire brush the area clean, Then I will spray lots of brake cleaner up in there until it drips clean. Then the jb weld.

I just wish it was a bit warmer so the jb weld would cure faster.
 






Ouch Jon, sorry to hear that. Don't you have the steel pan, what cracked?
 












Heat gun, or hair dryer ;)

I was going to set a lamp under it.

I will also drill a small hole at the end of the crack so it will not go any farther:thumbsup:
 






I purchased an oil pan for my wifes Subaru. It looked as if it could be changed without lifting the motor, but was a no go. 2 bolts couldn't be gotten to. Was able to seal it up with JB weld, and no leaks since (well from the pan). You have nothing to lose, at least. Best of luck. You certainly didn't need this now.
 






What about the Alumalloy, can you find it there?
 






yea that alumalloy, might be tough to do upside down though??

JB weld let it cure overnight, use a toothpick to get it deep into the crack!! just JB weld your new drain valve into place, who needs threads anymore!
 






My only fear is that since this is the oil "drain" - there will be oil accumlating on top of the JB weld throughout the curing process. So maybe jack the truck up on one side so any left over oil will collect on the opposite side of the pan and not on top of the area where the JB weld is curing.
 






theres also JB Kwik, dries in liek 5 mins. Gets quite hot though before hand so if you're applying it with your fingers, better be quick with it. I fixed a cracked transfercase with it in the desert, burned my fingers a bit doing it but it worked well enough to get out of Mojave with it =]

41T92eXTwbL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
 






You have the time, use the good JB weld not the quick set, if it saves you from pulling the engine then 24 hour cure time is NOTHING in comparison
 






JT I went to the barn and got your oil pan so it will ship tomorrow :)
 






Jon,

While you are at it find a priest to perform an exorcism on your garge & driveway. Those suckers are cursed.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top