OMG NOOOO!! can I drop my oil pan???

[rizzjc]

Ooh! Perty!

 

[celly]

Gotta love powercoating. I wish I could drive my Eddie right into that oven and bake the whole thing!

Just stumbled across this thread jonny. Glad to hear it's all "panning" out.

Kudos to Jamie for sorting you out.

 

[410Fortune]

LOL thats awesome Jon!! Nice work and a sense of humor, plus I got a 12 x 14 x 30 space in my parts storage!! LOL

I showed Julee the oil pan and she said "you see, you need a big shop so we can powdercoat all our stuff" man I love my wife

 

[Turdle]

OK, I have good news and bad news.
First, some good news as a strap can be secure around the upper idler. Hoist is now in place.
I also got a cinder block and jack stand, and have it under the transfer case tail shaft. We are now good and secure
now for the good and bad news



Good for you the reader, if you don't have a suspension lift. Bad for me, because I do.

Ok, I got the oil pump and pickup removed, no big deal. Using a 9/16's socket, with a 1/4 u joint on a very long extension made it easy, sitting on my rump, from the front of the truck.

Then the pan,
It was almost out, however the rear lower control arm drop bracket support was in the way. Non lifted trucks will not have this obstacle.

No big deal eh? it's only 4 bolts on each end of the bracket.

well, the torsion bar tension forced the whole thing in a bind.

Ok then, we'll go remove the torsion bars--get the covers off, adjuster key out ( I painted it for a reference mark) and a bottle jack ( still sitting on the floor jack) under the keys, the adjuster nut holder now flipped right out.

Out come the t bars-

back to the drop bracket support bracket things--the bolts are a bit looser now,
Ah fudge, guess what? The bolts hit into the control arms before coming all the way out.

So, now the control arms are un bolted, and half way in the channels to give room for removal of 4 lousy bolts. Grrrr

Once again, if you do not have the suspension lift, the pan will drop right out as mine did once the bar was removed.

In fact, you can then turn it sideways and remove it through the control arm -axles shaft hole--sitting in the driver front wheel well area.






My parents were wanting to go for a drive and are due here soon, so I am wrapping it up for the day. I did want to deliver the good news though!!!!!


I feel the oil pump replacement is a job which can be accomplished without removing the engine from the truck!!!!!

 

[410Fortune]

which is more work? LOL

 

[CDW6212R]

The pan looks great Jon, well done again. You are almost done, keep at it. Did you use a gasket for the oil pump BTW, I stopped that after my first one. The gasket can be crushed if a little too much torque is used, I prefer a very slight RTV layer.

Cool, now more pics please.

 

[Turdle]

Well, the re installation of the oil pump took all day of trial and error, but I knew it had to go back in, cause it came out right?


After cleaning the block and oil pump mating surfaces, install the new oil pan gasket which comes with little threaded plastic holder bolts-these bolts go into each of the 4 larger corner bolt holes, then, they have a tapered tip which will hold the gasket in place. line it up real well , paying attention to the end cap areas. The gasket is the last thing removed, and must be the first thing replaced.


Here is the trick
A large glob of stiff grease on the drive end ( cam sycnh drive end) of the oil pump drive shaft. This will kind of "glue" it in place. If it slides out, use more grease. it seems if some grease is on the ring it helps a bit.

You should have near you, within reach-2 oil pump bolts, one pickup tube nut, the oil pump gasket, and, the same 1/4" drive setup with 9/16" socket, used to remove the oil pump.
An air line with blow nozzle was also used, as I dropped the stuff several times before coming up with this trick. You may need to remove the pan completely, blow it out and start all over. If at any time, you drop parts into the pan, I recommend full removal and a blow out. Yes, this can get tedious,

Check to be sure the pump drive shaft is still all the way in

Now, lay the oil pump and pickup tube assembly in the pan, and raise it to position. You will need a helper, and this helper should be very thick skinned. Thankfully I have a good friend.

Have the helper hold the pan into a position where you have some room to work. It is tricky to get in into a position where the pump, nor tube, hit. Re check the drive shaft--make sur it is all the way in

Slowly -by feel, line the drive shaft to the hole in the oil pump. Once this is snagged, you should have a little play. Now swivel the whole assembly so you can get the pickup tube support over the stud on the main bearing cap. At this point, you should be able to slide the oil pump all the way into position. If not, you have an issue, so find it now. Most likely the pump drive shaft has fallen out of alignment.
Once you can get the pump all the way flush to the block, and drive shaft is in good, you can attach the pickup tube nut. Don't let go of the pump though, or else you will have to drop the pan to re arrange all the loose parts which drop out.
Now install the rear pump bolt, thread it in by hand until you have about a 1/8" gap between the pump and block. Grab the tiny oil pump gasket, and install it half way in, where the front bolt hole will line up, and, the rear bolt hole of the gasket is resting against the rear bolt. Install the front oil pump bolt thru the gasket, and turn the bolt in until it matches the rear bolt. Now, remove the rear bolt, and the gasket might pop right into place. If not, rotate it into position, and , re install the rear bolt. Tighten them until snug, then torque to Approx 25 ft lbs

This is how far I made it today-I have 2 pan bolts in place, and the engine back down, resting in it's cradle.

Sorry, but this was about the trickiest procedure i have ever encountered. No pics==

 

[rizzjc]

I thought that was an "oh, crap, I'm screwed!" thread, not a "How-to" thread.

 

[Turdle]

I thought that was an "oh, crap, I'm screwed!" thread, not a "How-to" thread.

Or, it could be a how not to thread--

Any other person would be finished with this by now. Unfortunately, with the cherry picker legs under the truck, finding an position to work in was difficult for me. I ended up wedging a 20" 2x6 into the center of my back for a jack brace--so I could use both hands to work.
Today I am struggling just to walk. If I can get moving I will try to dodge the rain and get something done today.

 

[rizzjc]

Don't worry Jon. It if were me, I probably wouldn't even have it apart yet.

 

[ZBlackBeast]

god sounds like a MESS> thats one good thing about y SHO over the ex. Makes working down there easy as PIE. I can do rod bearings with the motor IN the car.. Takes about 3-4 hours.. Sorry to hear about that Jon!! Good luck

 

[410Fortune]

wow good job Jon

Patience is a virtue, it is also REQUIRED if you plan to build a Ford RBV, I have spent 6 hours on ONE bolt before,blind, feeling with fingers, yting not to drop the bolt again,...its a PITA but oh so nice to drive it when you finally get it back together!!!

 

[Turdle]

Give it a full minute for warm up, then the idle will settle in.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Dang filters decided to work at work today I'll have to wait until I get home to watch.

 

[Willard]

 

[cybergasm]

Damn now only if i get my Retro Van to sound like that then i would be set

 

[techieman33]

That video does nothing to represent the real sound, it's so much better in person

 

[Turdle]

Well, it seems it is monsoon season here in Kansas. The truck is sitting in the driveway, because this was supposed to be a simple oil change. Cold rain is the outlook right now.

I feel badly about moving so slowly on this. Yesterday I once again was working on a step that needed finished before I could stop, and yes, it poured on me. All the drop brackets are really making it a pita to get things back in, and, I am working on my own. It takes a while to get a front diffy in all by your lonesome when it is CAD on one end, and drop brackets block the other.

All that is remaining for a dry day is to install wire ties to tighten the steering boots, -install cv's-shocks-Front sway bar and end links -extended brake lines while I am in there-torsion bars-keys and covers.

 

[rizzjc]

Keep plugging at it Jon. Next time you do something like this, wait until I'm vacationing in Kansas, and am looking for something to do.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Well hell I thought you were done.