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mr1mrwun
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No not yet haven't begun tearing that engine down yet.
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Cyl 6 probably has bad rings, which let oil leak into the combustion chamber, fouled the spark plug, and continued to run through the exhaust.
Also the oil might have leaked in through the valves, but I doubt it. I leak down test will provide you with some info on what it's doing, tearing it down will really tell you. Good luck and glad you got it running again!
Now go 
Also the oil might have leaked in through the valves, but I doubt it. I leak down test will provide you with some info on what it's doing, tearing it down will really tell you. Good luck and glad you got it running again!
Now go
mr1mrwun
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Cyl 6 probably has bad rings, which let oil leak into the combustion chamber, fouled the spark plug, and continued to run through the exhaust.
Also the oil might have leaked in through the valves, but I doubt it. I leak down test will provide you with some info on what it's doing, tearing it down will really tell you. Good luck and glad you got it running again!
Well, its not running yet. Bout to go out now since it warmed up a lil bit. But I'm pretty sure the wind chill is gonna get the best of me.
mr1mrwun
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It's cool, it happens. Went money and better weather come my way I plan on rebuilding my original engine. So I'll find out and keep you all posted.
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Bit of an update.......
Today was the first day the wind chill was not below 0 degrees, so I got some more done today.
Got the clutch bled.
I got the engine all buttoned up except for the main engine ground. I didn't notice that the transplant engine didn't have the same treaded hole to bolt the ground in until after I went to bolt it in.
So tomorrow when I turn the key after tapping the grounding hole, I will have my truck back!!!!!!!!!
Today was the first day the wind chill was not below 0 degrees, so I got some more done today.
Got the clutch bled.
I got the engine all buttoned up except for the main engine ground. I didn't notice that the transplant engine didn't have the same treaded hole to bolt the ground in until after I went to bolt it in.
So tomorrow when I turn the key after tapping the grounding hole, I will have my truck back!!!!!!!!!
mr1mrwun
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mr1mrwun
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Ok, got the the engine ground in.
Now.................I'm scratching my head with my current state.
I turn the key......
Everything lights up the way it should.....
Hear the fuel pump....after that..........NOTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!
I checked all the connections in the bay......everything is connected correctly.
Tomorrow I'm going to check the clutch switch, starter relay, and the starter. All three worked fine before the swap. Other than that I have no clue what to look for.
I'm thinking it HAS to be something electrical.....(connection wise).....mechanically everything worked fine before and was re-installed.
Also going to do a step by step with Diagnosing A No Start/Slow Start - Starter Concerns
ANY suggestions would be helpful!!!!
Now.................I'm scratching my head with my current state.
I turn the key......
Everything lights up the way it should.....
Hear the fuel pump....after that..........NOTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!
I checked all the connections in the bay......everything is connected correctly.
Tomorrow I'm going to check the clutch switch, starter relay, and the starter. All three worked fine before the swap. Other than that I have no clue what to look for.
I'm thinking it HAS to be something electrical.....(connection wise).....mechanically everything worked fine before and was re-installed.
Also going to do a step by step with Diagnosing A No Start/Slow Start - Starter Concerns
ANY suggestions would be helpful!!!!
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Well, I had to go back and re-read the thread again to see if you swapped out the engine harness or not. There is a jumper used on the manual harness for the starter, make sure that is installed and didn't come off. You will find it on the drivers side of the engine, by the firewall.
Then make sure the BOO is connected and working.
For a no crank issue, you definitely have a circuit fault, as I highly doubt you left one of the starter connections bare.
For the heck of it, and this is a long shot but, check to make sure the starter itself has a clean dry mate with the block. This is its ground, if it is oiled slick, you get a bad ground. Seen crazier stuff happen.
Then make sure the BOO is connected and working.
For a no crank issue, you definitely have a circuit fault, as I highly doubt you left one of the starter connections bare.
For the heck of it, and this is a long shot but, check to make sure the starter itself has a clean dry mate with the block. This is its ground, if it is oiled slick, you get a bad ground. Seen crazier stuff happen.
mr1mrwun
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Well, I had to go back and re-read the thread again to see if you swapped out the engine harness or not. There is a jumper used on the manual harness for the starter, make sure that is installed and didn't come off. You will find it on the drivers side of the engine, by the firewall.
Then make sure the BOO is connected and working.
For a no crank issue, you definitely have a circuit fault, as I highly doubt you left one of the starter connections bare.
For the heck of it, and this is a long shot but, check to make sure the starter itself has a clean dry mate with the block. This is its ground, if it is oiled slick, you get a bad ground. Seen crazier stuff happen.
Trying to wrap my head around what your saying.......
I don't remember there being a jumper on the starter. Just the two regular connections. One ring and one spade. I'll check and see if there is any wires hanging, but I doubt it. But just in case I overlooked/missed, it where would that jumper be coming from/to?
I'll check the mating surface also
Lastly............what is a BOO??????
About 60% sure...........^^^ is an inside joke I don't know about
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LOL, the BOO (Brake on/off) is the brake switch on the pedal.
All I meant about the starter wires, was that you surely had both the main positive cable hooked up & the hot wire to the solenoid hooked up is all.
The starter circuit is open for the auto trans, and is closed for the manual. Ford installed a jumper inline on the circuit, it simply plugs into the engine harness on the drivers side right where the connection to the trans harness plugs into. It will have a looped wire coming out of the connector and goes back into the connector. I think its pink. I have a picture of it somewhere. If I can find it I will post it back here later. You might look at the harness from the other engine, if it was a manual, and see it better.
All I meant about the starter wires, was that you surely had both the main positive cable hooked up & the hot wire to the solenoid hooked up is all.
The starter circuit is open for the auto trans, and is closed for the manual. Ford installed a jumper inline on the circuit, it simply plugs into the engine harness on the drivers side right where the connection to the trans harness plugs into. It will have a looped wire coming out of the connector and goes back into the connector. I think its pink. I have a picture of it somewhere. If I can find it I will post it back here later. You might look at the harness from the other engine, if it was a manual, and see it better.
mr1mrwun
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Ohh ok, got ya! Yeah both those wires are hooked up, but ill be double checking them tomorrow.
If you can find a pic of that jumper, that would be sweet!!! That way I'll know what to exactly look for! I really don't know if my transplant engine came from a manual or not. But the wiring harness was COMPLETELY different from mine so I just swapped it. Besides only the wiring that was ON my transplant engine was all that I got.
BOO......ok I'll have to remember that one LOL!!! Think I'll throw it into the acronym sticky in the newbie section!! (I checked LOL!!!!)
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This is a picture from an automatic engine harness, but the round connector on the left (yours maybe black) is what your after.
Behind (in the loom itself) the round connector on the Dr side you will find the pink/blue jumper wire.
No need to tear into the harness, Just check the pins inside are making contact and didn't get bent up when re-connecting them after the swap.
For any circuits you want to look up on your ECM, here is the layout showing what each circuit does on a 60 pin ECM.
And the pin out diagram on your manual trans harness that plugs into the engine harness.
Behind (in the loom itself) the round connector on the Dr side you will find the pink/blue jumper wire.
No need to tear into the harness, Just check the pins inside are making contact and didn't get bent up when re-connecting them after the swap.
For any circuits you want to look up on your ECM, here is the layout showing what each circuit does on a 60 pin ECM.
And the pin out diagram on your manual trans harness that plugs into the engine harness.
mr1mrwun
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WOW!?!?!? SMH!!!! Idk dont know if its because mine is a manual, a '91, or both, but the back of my engine harness looks nothing like that. Makes me wish I had taken more pics of everything I did.
But thanks for the pics and the charts
Using your pic as a reference............
I DO have to two separate wire looms running PAST the engine from the eninge harness.
-On the right (the black one in your pic) would be where approximately the wires and connector for my o2 sensor.
-On the left (the gray) is a loom full of wires running down to the side of the trans. One has a two wire connector, I believe its for the reverse lights' switch. The other is either a 4 or 6 wire connector (can't remember) that connects further down to a pigtail from the trans. Idk what the second one is for.
Can't check my good SMs right now, because all my good ones are programs on my laptop and I had to get it rebuilt. So I have to dig through my stuff to find the installation cds. Anyway my actual book SM doesn't say what either is for the trans. I'm about 80% sure about the first one, and completely in the dark on the other. So any help with that will be appreciated!!!!
But thanks for the pics and the charts
Using your pic as a reference............
I DO have to two separate wire looms running PAST the engine from the eninge harness.
-On the right (the black one in your pic) would be where approximately the wires and connector for my o2 sensor.
-On the left (the gray) is a loom full of wires running down to the side of the trans. One has a two wire connector, I believe its for the reverse lights' switch. The other is either a 4 or 6 wire connector (can't remember) that connects further down to a pigtail from the trans. Idk what the second one is for.
Can't check my good SMs right now, because all my good ones are programs on my laptop and I had to get it rebuilt. So I have to dig through my stuff to find the installation cds. Anyway my actual book SM doesn't say what either is for the trans. I'm about 80% sure about the first one, and completely in the dark on the other. So any help with that will be appreciated!!!!
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That is a pic of an automatic harness for a 4R55E trans. That's why it looks so different. I just used it to show you the location of the round connector on the dr side is all. 
Your harness is different because of it being a manual.
The pass side 02 connects to the pass side engine harness connector.
The drivers side 02 connects to the dr side connector, but it is in the trans harness that has the reverse lights, the VSS connectors as well.
You might even have the connector for the neutral switch. Hmm, that might be the issue! Do you not have all the connectors plugged in from your trans harness? If the neutral switch connector is not hooked up, you will get no crank! Check it out!
Your harness is different because of it being a manual.
The pass side 02 connects to the pass side engine harness connector.
The drivers side 02 connects to the dr side connector, but it is in the trans harness that has the reverse lights, the VSS connectors as well.
You might even have the connector for the neutral switch. Hmm, that might be the issue! Do you not have all the connectors plugged in from your trans harness? If the neutral switch connector is not hooked up, you will get no crank! Check it out!
mr1mrwun
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Oh ok. That's a bit of a relief. I need to stop over thinking things!!
Yeah I follow you on the passenger side for the o2 sensor.
I'll have to check the driver side connections again. As well as the clutch switch. Have make sure thats working right. Took it off twice.
But like I said the wires on the driver's side run all the way to the side of the trans. The loom splits about 6-8" back from the reverse lights terminal and the rest go back to the VSS. No connector for that at the back of the engine harness.
Other than spaying some cleaner in them and checking the pins, not too much more I can do right now. I'm looking online for wiring diagrams online now so i can check for continuity and/or shorts from "A to B" for those wires.
Yeah I follow you on the passenger side for the o2 sensor.
I'll have to check the driver side connections again. As well as the clutch switch. Have make sure thats working right. Took it off twice.
But like I said the wires on the driver's side run all the way to the side of the trans. The loom splits about 6-8" back from the reverse lights terminal and the rest go back to the VSS. No connector for that at the back of the engine harness.
Other than spaying some cleaner in them and checking the pins, not too much more I can do right now. I'm looking online for wiring diagrams online now so i can check for continuity and/or shorts from "A to B" for those wires.
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2 wires for each connector. How many connectors do you have on that trans harness?
VSS
Neutral safety
02
Reverse lights =
4 connectors all in that trans harness that connects to the drivers side of the engine harness.
There are sometimes 2 sensors on the top of the trans either side of the shifter. Check both sides of it and make sure they are plugged in.
Not sure how much more help I can be for you other than what I have already tried.
VSS
Neutral safety
02
Reverse lights =
4 connectors all in that trans harness that connects to the drivers side of the engine harness.
There are sometimes 2 sensors on the top of the trans either side of the shifter. Check both sides of it and make sure they are plugged in.
Not sure how much more help I can be for you other than what I have already tried.
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