Project thread: “Beast”

[TribeZ]

How concerned should I be about the condition of my fan? Some pretty big cracks.. i read this is common and supposedly can run that way long time?

 

[CDW6212R]

You should replace that if you can when you have time to do it. It's not a huge priority, but the fans usually take years to develop that many cracks. So it's on borrowed time now, it might last years more, or lose a blade next week.

 

[TribeZ]

You should replace that if you can when you have time to do it. It's not a huge priority, but the fans usually take years to develop that many cracks. So it's on borrowed time now, it might last years more, or lose a blade next week.

Sorry to ask without looking but will eventually. Can I replace it without taking the front end apart?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, getting the wrenches to rent, and loosening the fan(big nut) from the water pump is the only real hard part. There's not much room there, but you are only removing the belt, shroud, and fan assembly.

 

[TribeZ]

Just a little update!
installed new fuel pump almost ruined my fuel lines with the fuel disconnect tool. Ended up hack sawing lines where old parts where so I could get better angles on the stupid fittings.

Drove about 2500 miles total. I had honestly kind of forgotten that upsizing my tires would change my speedo. I “thought” I had fixed this with my tuner but turns out not. So while in cali I was crusing around 85+ thinking I was just scratching 80 without really realizing. Was upset with my 15.3 mpg at first. Got into Oregon and speed limits drop along with other drives not pushing it as much. Go it up to 17.2 on a tank. And in Washington crusin the 101 going from 35-55 at max managed 19.3 on a tank. But overall was only at 16.5 when I got it home from the computers reading.

I saw junk yard near by me had a clean 2001 5.0 pictures showed the disc player in the console was what I was mainly after but I check for all kinds of stuff. Saw 3 different 5.0 with the changer but all destroyed and no cartridges. However one of them had an original head unit! And mine has not had a working display since buying it in 2009. And this sucker worked! I like the stock look and was pretty happy about that pick. 32$ I bought insurance on it just incase could have been 26$.

I still have all the transmission goodies to do now. Probably be a few weeks before I can get to that but excited to keep working on the beast. I have like 90% of money for the TMH kind of waiting on a few things in life to get figured out before I order, but I have seen it can be 6~ months to get them so I might just have to order them now. I am worried about my shipping address changing. And I also would rather have all the cash instead of charging the rest. I also wanna be able to afford some tunes for my SCT 4 so im not using the crappy canned tunes.

I usually take a lot more pictures of stuff but only got the 2

 

[TribeZ]

Just a text update;

170k miles:
New Power Steering Pump, and lines
New idler pulley’s
New fan blade
New tensioner pulley
New drive belt
New water pump
New thermo stat and housing
New coolant sensor
New radiator cap
New radiator hoses
Radiator flush and fil…


My P0451 or whatever the emissions code is came back. I can hear the cracked egr tube or manifold clicking somewhere. In consistent click. Usually when engine is shaking. I bought engine mounts and they were sent to me obviously used, and one looked like they tried to cut it with a hackzall to make it fit before returning. Or do that come looking like that? The transmission mount from same company was clean and wrapped in plastic so I think I just got unlucky.

Will be attempting the engine mounts and transmission mount once that return is processed. My engine shake has gotten very bad. Whole damn car rattles. Planning on paying for a 179$ transmission service and also asking that same place to rebuild the valve body. Something I have been little intimidated by. But maybe I get the courage.

 

[410Fortune]

P0451 only code?
Engine shakes all the time or?
With a 5.0 and shake is usually a dead miss they should idle and run baby butt smooth

Get that egr tube or exhaust leak sorted

Inspect the Evap system above spare tire and under battery tray to solve the 451 code
Glad to see she’s still kickin!

 

[TribeZ]

Yea my engine jumps around when gets gas. Otherwise it looks fine at idle, but the whole truck rattles. One of my engine mounts had Ben touching metal to metal so long it’s like 1/4 in of metal cutting into the frame mount. I’ll make a video tomorrow and take some pictures would love your advice on if it’s not engine mounts.

The click I hear happens when the engine is rough idle if or sometimes from acceleration at idle can make it happen consistently. I’ve been getting terrible gas mileage since the code has thrown. But the truck has always kinda “shaked” like an old dog or something.. lol. So I have been slowly chasing that. The suspension upgrades helped. The body mounts don’t look blown. Engine mount was my last spot before some serious engine issues.

 

[410Fortune]

that motor mount is toast!!!!!! HILARIOUS video
I mean sucks the mount is bad, but that is BAD BAD
You can swap the mount out it is not a terrible job and the parts are cheap enough

Did you solve the code?

 

[TribeZ]

that motor mount is toast!!!!!! HILARIOUS video
I mean sucks the mount is bad, but that is BAD BAD
You can swap the mount out it is not a terrible job and the parts are cheap enough

Did you solve the code?

Still have code. And I have motor mounts. They have been toast for over a year maybe 2-3. But the mounts I received looked used or sent back.

Would you install these?

 

[410Fortune]

interesting
I see the anchor box in the background but why is the paint scratched and the parts dirty?
They are probably fine, going to be better then what you have in there
As far as I know you cannot get OEM mounts anymore so options are
return and get another set
fab something up
or run em

 

[TribeZ]

interesting
I see the anchor box in the background but why is the paint scratched and the parts dirty?
They are probably fine, going to be better then what you have in there
As far as I know you cannot get OEM mounts anymore so options are
return and get another set
fab something up
or run em

Imma run em. Lol. I figure the rubber is the fine. And yea one was wrapped in plastic and the other was not. And the one not wrapped in as missing the part sticker like the other. Rockauto won’t pay return shipping on these for some reason, so almost same price to return them sadly.

I’ll post how it goes on Sunday. I also bought the transmission mount. Easy to do at same time or separate project ? I’ll go look up some guides now too.

 

[Turdle]

It doesn't appear to me that the studs have had a nut driven down them, from what I see in pictures .

 

[TribeZ]

SOS so started doing the motor mounts. Found out why it was so bad. The plate that holds the mount to the engine, the 2 bolts that hold it to the engine were sheared off. I also have no idea even if these were not sheared how to get that Mount out of there ? To me it would take pulling the engine.. or can I put a jack under the transmission and lift there ? I don’t want to use my oil pan.

 

[TribeZ]

This is the bolts I need once I get the old ones out. Can anyone point me in the right direction on these ?

 

[TribeZ]

Better pic of the sheared bolts

 

[TribeZ]

So is it a bad idea to just use Self tapping metal screws to put that engine mount plate back to the engine block? I really dont want to try tapping clean holes from underneath.. And am wanting to get self tappers and just send them with the 250lb Torque gun...

 

[Turdle]

So is it a bad idea to just use Self tapping metal screws to put that engine mount plate back to the engine block? I really dont want to try tapping clean holes from underneath.. And am wanting to get self tappers and just send them with the 250lb Torque gun...

I'm worried about doing that in cast iron. I'd expect it to crack

 

[TribeZ]

I'm worried about doing that in cast iron. I'd expect it to crack

I have tried the reverse thread tap technique and its not going to work. What is my next best option? I'm trying to figure out how to get the old both threads out with screwing the threads.. but I am thinking of getting a self tap that will mostly just grab the Aluminum ( I think? ) Bolt metal and not stress the actual engine block much? Or this might be one I finally go to a mechanic for the first time in like 5 years : /

Edit: These type of bolts are my plan, triangle tipped tap bolts.. Thinking of doing the same thread size as the original hole? or one size down hoping the existing bolt will fill the voids?

Tri-lobular Thread Forming Screws - Hex, Phillips, & More - Mutual Screw & Supply

 

[TribeZ]

Updates;


So I am looking at and most likely buying a donor vehicle this weekend. It had torque monster headers and upgraded rockers but I don’t have to many details on other mods done. It also had the secondary cats pulled and a dual exhaust ran in dull 2.5”.

I am still going to keep my main vehicle as the body and only plan to swap over the motor and headers.

I found a shop that can do the work of the swap, I don’t have the space or shop for a swap. Is 2500-3k for pulling both motors and putting one back. Fluids / parts etc. even with tax rough estimate is $3200.

Should be back up and running end of April !