Project Vehicle - 1998 Explorer Limited

[koda2000]

That's going to look amazing after polishing. A shiny black vehicle is sweet. Hurry up.

Another guy posted a video here on using cutting polish and a polishing wheel along with some other grades of polish and wax to achieve an unbelievable shine on a black junk yard hood recently. As long as you don't go through the clear coat it can be done. It was a couple of months ago if you want to try to find his post.

 

[fastpakr]

Yes, your truck has a factory alarm, and the keyless entry, key fob, to control the doors and alarm. My 93 Limited had no key fob, I just bought a new one from eBay for about $10, and it was simple to program. The 98 works the same way, and uses the same fob as the early Explorers. I have one for all three of my SUV's. Buy a new key also, and get the key programmed, you need to always have three keys available.

If you lose one key, you must have two to be able to add any more. If you only have one key, to add more the PATS memory has to be erased, which requires a special diagnostic tool. A lot of key-smiths have those I gather now, that used to be a Ford only tool.

You can add a second key even if you've lost one. You'll need an ELM327 module and FORSCAN, but that combination will allow you to delete all existing PATS keys from the computer and add new ones in. The whole process takes about ten minutes.

 

[CDW6212R]

Another guy posted a video here on using cutting polish and a polishing wheel along with some other grades of polish and wax to achieve an unbelievable shine on a black junk yard hood recently. As long as you don't go through the clear coat it can be done. It was a couple of months ago if you want to try to find his post.

That was Greg, and his Pugly, 95 I believe.

You can add a second key even if you've lost one. You'll need an ELM327 module and FORSCAN, but that combination will allow you to delete all existing PATS keys from the computer and add new ones in. The whole process takes about ten minutes.

Is that the new self method to erase PATS codes? I like it, I had read that tools exist that we can get now. I've read about that ELM327 module and FORSCAN in a couple of other threads, I just didn't know what that could do for us. Thanks,

 

[fastpakr]

I'm not sure about erasing PATS codes. Forscan supports all kinds of features, particularly in the newer trucks. It came in very handy for my '99 though. A $10 Strattec key plus the OBD2 interface to my laptop got me going with a second key.

 

[GLOCKer]

Minor progress: fog lamp bulbs installed and key fobs programmed
Minor set-back: I'm going to have to get back in the driver door and maybe make some adjustments and/or lube the linkages. It works, just not very well. The lock seems like it's binding a little.

 

[GLOCKer]

I posted this in the Transmission section but I thought I'd drop it here too...

This poor thing sat for four years because the driver door didn't work. It starts and runs very nicely but exhibits a few small problems that need some love.

One of those issues is the transmission. It seemed to be hesitant to shift when I got onto the interstate to drive it home and it seemed to prefer when I drove it harder. On the interstate it felt and sounded like it was making a lot of RPMs, but it seemed to cruise around 65 mph around 2000 RPM. I can't describe it, but it felt and sounded like it was stuck in a lower gear but according to the tach, it wasn't working that hard. But I also had a lot of howling noise (I'm fearful it's the rear end) that made it hard to hear the motor.

Since getting it home, I've only driven it around my subdivision a couple of times to keep it moving, and I notice it seems to shift a little hard when tooling around.

I don't know crap-all about transmissions except the basic principal of how they work. I'm hoping that draining all of the fluid and changing the filter will clean up how this thing shifts. I'm hoping it's just a little cantankerous because it sat for four years not being driven.

So, what is the likely-hood that changing the filter and fluid will clear up the shifting issue considering this sat for four years not being driven? Is this something I can do in my garage just jacking up the front end and cracking the seal to drain the pan or should I consider letting a shop handle it? I understand the pan needs to be removed to drain it and access the filter, and then a new gasket needs to be put on the pan before reinstalling. Is it really that easy? Or does it just sound easy?

Thanks guys!

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d get a cheap pump and pump out at least 2 quarts before dropping the pan. Makes a lot less mess. Doubtful it will ‘fix’ any issues, however. These transmissions seem very pressure sensitive and loose valve body bolts or leaking gaskets seem to make a big difference.

 

[CDW6212R]

The V8 transmission is very strong and reliable, it's a 4R70W. Anything can be abuse and killed, but these can take a little more neglect. I got mine with 158k on it, changed the fluid and filter, put on a deep pan I have for my other truck(adds two quarts), and now it;s got 199k on it, shifting slightly better than before. Mine had a little softer shift than I like, now it's about what I call normal for stock. I prefer firmer shifts, which is better for the clutches etc. Soft shifts are slipping shifts.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's very easy to drain and replace the filter, can be messy yes, but still easy. The 4R70W has a drain plug in the torque converter, which holds a gallon of ATF. I suggest draining that and the filter, which should take about ten quarts. There will be 2-3 left up inside the trans, which only come out when the VB is loosened. The pan gasket can last forever, it's steel and rubber.

It takes turning the crank some to locate the TC drain plug, which is a 10mm plug IIRC, accessible at the bottom with the rubber cover plug removed. That's simple to do and you get a gallon out.

To drain the pan, remove all but the corner bolts, after having two large "pans" under it. What you drain it into ought to be bigger than the trans pan, say 16x22" or more. Get one of the common steel drip pans from a parts store, they are about 2'x3' and work great for laying various bolts etc onto, around the drain pan.

With just the corner bolts left, loosen the rear two about 1/8", barely loosen the front two, and then gently pry a rear corner of the pan down. You only want a little crack for fluid to come out, let it drain a few seconds. Then loosen the rear two most of the way, then the front most of the way. Then there is not much dripping from the trans into the pan. By hand, push the pan up, hold it, remove the rear bolts. Gently lower the pan rear, but not stressing the front bolts. Then push/hold the pan up again, remove the front bolts, and gently lower the pan evenly, setting it aside, with probably under two quarts left in it. Your hands and forearms will get wet, but do it slowly without slipping, and the fluid will be mostly in the drain pan.

I should video tape myself doing this some day. I've drained a trans enough times, that there is no need to drill and install a drain plug. It's not that big of a deal.

Service the trans, and rear diff, and see if the sounds and feel improve.

 

[koda2000]

Your shift solenoids may be sticking. I believe they're easily replaced when the pan is removed, and they may be available as a set, but not sure. I think this is a fairly common problem, but I don't know much about automatic transmissions either. See what the transmission sub-forum has to say.

 

[GLOCKer]

It's very easy to drain and replace the filter, can be messy yes, but still easy. The 4R70W has a drain plug in the torque converter, which holds a gallon of ATF. I suggest draining that and the filter, which should take about ten quarts. There will be 2-3 left up inside the trans, which only come out when the VB is loosened. The pan gasket can last forever, it's steel and rubber.

It takes turning the crank some to locate the TC drain plug, which is a 10mm plug IIRC, accessible at the bottom with the rubber cover plug removed. That's simple to do and you get a gallon out.

To drain the pan, remove all but the corner bolts, after having two large "pans" under it. What you drain it into ought to be bigger than the trans pan, say 16x22" or more. Get one of the common steel drip pans from a parts store, they are about 2'x3' and work great for laying various bolts etc onto, around the drain pan.

With just the corner bolts left, loosen the rear two about 1/8", barely loosen the front two, and then gently pry a rear corner of the pan down. You only want a little crack for fluid to come out, let it drain a few seconds. Then loosen the rear two most of the way, then the front most of the way. Then there is not much dripping from the trans into the pan. By hand, push the pan up, hold it, remove the rear bolts. Gently lower the pan rear, but not stressing the front bolts. Then push/hold the pan up again, remove the front bolts, and gently lower the pan evenly, setting it aside, with probably under two quarts left in it. Your hands and forearms will get wet, but do it slowly without slipping, and the fluid will be mostly in the drain pan.

I should video tape myself doing this some day. I've drained a trans enough times, that there is no need to drill and install a drain plug. It's not that big of a deal.

Service the trans, and rear diff, and see if the sounds and feel improve.

You make it sound easy and that's just what I needed to have the confidence to attempt it! LOL

 

[koda2000]

Example of 4R70W shift solenoids available on eBay.

4R70W Transmission Solenoid Package Shift TCC Lock-Up EPC AODE Kit Set 1998-2004 715776776287 | eBay

 

[Turdle]

For the shifting issue, be sure to check the Throttle position sensor. It acts as the "kick down lever" also, so, if the output is high, the computer thinks you are flooring it and want passing gear, or, a downshift. It will delay the upshift , sometimes severely if it is out of spec.

< 1v at idle, rising smoothly to >4.5v but less than 5v throughout it's travel. Key on engine off. Use a true ground for reference.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the solenoids are the next items which would be good to replace, those and the accumulators. But those all require dropping the valve body, and it needs to be torqued carefully back to about 110inlbs. Do the fluid and filter first, that is a definite need given the time undriven, and age. If the shifting doesn't seem right after that, then plot on replacing the other things. The costs are not bad, easily under $150 for all of them, and they should be part of any rebuild, so they get done anyway later on. Most issues are from the VB, or functioning of the accumulators and solenoids. Old tired fluid is bad for all of it.

 

[GLOCKer]

So I just got home from work on my last day before I go on vacation and had to do just one more thing to the EX. I think I figured out what was wrong with the door lock; I think it was binding on the actual interior door panel were that thing pops up to show you that it's locked or unlocked. I double check that everything was hooked up correctly and put some white lithium grease on were all those linkages connect to the latch assembly, tested everything, and then re-hung the interior door panel and everything works fine. I'm quite happy about that! When I get back from vacation it's time to look at polishing this turd! LOL

 

[CDW6212R]

Good good, easy fixes are the best.

 

[GLOCKer]

I drove around my neighborhood a little this evening and I would characterize the shifts as soft now that I've read some of the posts on here. Fingers crossed a little easy maintenance clears that up.

 

[GLOCKer]

What do you guys think of this transmission pan?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NF1PT8...colid=EBOC0U1QM51U&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Is it worth considering grabbing this if there is a potential that I'll be dropping the pan for further maintenance?


And I'm thinking about grabbing this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C8P92...colid=EBOC0U1QM51U&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[CDW6212R]

Don't buy that filter kit, it costs more than a Ford filter. Buy an OEM filter or a well known brand, just avoid the brands nobody knows of. You don't need the gasket at all, the stock one is very sturdy and should last forever.

The pan there gets you a drain plug, which you could buy and install yourself, for less money.

 

[koda2000]

The OE trans pans are very thick metal. Unless your's is damaged, I wouldn't replace it. I installed a drain plug (B&M universal drain plug (2 for $12.xx w/free shipping on eBay). I put one on my Sport Trac and plan on installing the other one on my '01 EB V8 next time a service the trans. As said, the OE pan gasket is reusable, but you may end up losing some of the metal slugs that are there to prevent over tightening. I use Wix filters, which come with a good gasket. They say to apply some grease to the gasket when installing. Over 2 years and no leaks or even seepage from the drain plug or gasket.