Project Vehicle - 1998 Explorer Limited

[Spudhut]

Example of 4R70W shift solenoids available on eBay.

4R70W Transmission Solenoid Package Shift TCC Lock-Up EPC AODE Kit Set 1998-2004 715776776287 | eBay

Will this kit also work on 97' models with 4R70W?

Would it be also good to complete a spring refresh while the pan is dropped?

BCA DIY AODE, 4R70W, 4R75W AND 4R70E JMOD KIT 1996- PRESENT

 

[koda2000]

Will this kit also work on 97' models with 4R70W?

Would it be also good to complete a spring refresh while the pan is dropped?

BCA DIY AODE, 4R70W, 4R75W AND 4R70E JMOD KIT 1996- PRESENT

It says '98-'04 so maybe not.
This one says '95-'97
OEM 4R70W Solenoid Kit TCC EPC Shift Transmission Set 3 Pieces Fits Ford 95-97 | eBay

Also check RockAuto's on-line catalog. I never trust eBay's fitment guides.

 

[CDW6212R]

Will this kit also work on 97' models with 4R70W?

Would it be also good to complete a spring refresh while the pan is dropped?

BCA DIY AODE, 4R70W, 4R75W AND 4R70E JMOD KIT 1996- PRESENT

That's the Jmod kit from someone selling it and some other good parts. That would require R&Ring the valve body.

Select parts for the pre-98 4R's carefully, those have to have different solenoids due to different connectors and internal harness. The DTRS is also different, analog, and smart to replace(those were not sealed from the factory, newer parts are).

 

[Turdle]

That's the Jmod kit from someone selling it and some other good parts. That would require R&Ring the valve body.

Select parts for the pre-98 4R's carefully, those have to have different solenoids due to different connectors and internal harness. The DTRS is also different, analog, and smart to replace(those were not sealed from the factory, newer parts are).

If I recall correctly the valve body separator plate is also different.

 

[CDW6212R]

If I recall correctly the valve body separator plate is also different.

I didn't read it all, did that not include instructions or a plate? I don't think Spudhut is ready to pull the VB and begin drilling holes in the VB plate, so it's likely better for someone wanting firmer shifts etc. That is likely a good source for the accumulator springs, since the seller seem familiar with the JMod. There are 2-3 of each spring, and someone who knows how they affect each application is the best person to choose them. I'd be hunting such a person too.

 

[Spudhut]

Im just thinking.."while your in there"...why not some other considerations.

I may change the solenoids since they are cheap enough and likely a simple process. Im not really interested in drilling the plate, but if the process can be a bolt in, ill be happy to tackle on.

That 'J Mod' kit has all the parts, even if your going to keep it in stock form. (lots of options) Someone suggested that the springs were a good item to change since they were bad at original and were prone to breaking causing shifting issues. It was suggested to me when I indicated some of the minor shift issues i was having in mine (see my thread below). After some review of the process, it was an easy replacement - cheap as well.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the accumulators and their springs are among the easy things to change. The solenoids are easier, only the EPC is tough because the shift lever has to be removed(there's a roll pin that sometimes is a PITA to remove).

The J'Mod is a great thing because it's fairly simple. I haven't done one of those, I was used to the complicated TransGo kits, lots of tiny parts to replace, lots of springs, and some drilling. I'm just not sure how the truck VB's respond to the J'Mod, the cars are well known(how big each hole ought to be, which accumulator spring(stiffness) to use).

I'm planning to go into my 98 VB when I get my 99 running again. That will be the parts I've suggested here, plus the J'Mod, and a few Sonnax parts as well. The Sonnax parts are great to upgrade things with, they are very much help but don't hurt parts. After all that, then you've got a nice tune-able trans, if you do that.

 

[GLOCKer]

Ugh. I'm missing not working on this thing. I did order a transmission filter for it while I was off in Texas. I also did some research on how to cleanly touch up some spots of paint on it. Unfortunately I'm only in town for a couple of days then I head off for New York for a long weekend.

 

[Centaurus5.0]

I think a complete VB from BCA for $220 is a deal. Everything already setup by a pro, no guess work and no core! If something is wrong or you want to take it off to put on another vehicle or sell the rig, you still have the oem one to put back in the truck.

I contacted Darrin and asked if he could soften up the valvebody I purchased from him a bit. Sent me two springs to replace the bottom of the 1-2 and install one in the 2-3 where there currently isn't one. I'd say it shifts perfect at WOT and around about 15% (for lack of a better description) too hard when it shift after letting off from a 3/4 throttle. What ever he does to them, it also corrected the huge delay between 3rd and Overdrive. I would say it's just as fast as the stock vb shifts 1-2 and 2-3. One of the best improvements for the money you can do to these. Not only for performance but also longevity.

There are many things worth taking the time to learn to diy. For me, the vb isn't one of them.

BTW, I thought you couldn't J-Mod a truck vb because some of the passages that need to be enlarged are slotted instead of round like on car vb's? Don't know where I heard that but its rattle around in my head for some reason..

 

[GLOCKer]

I'm back from my trip out to Texas! (Where I at the BEST bbq brisket I've ever experienced in my life! It was a religious experience!) Since I'm only home for a couple of days before we head back out again, I didn't want to get too deep on anything with the Explorer so today I just grabbed a bottle of ScratchX to assess what I am going to have to tackle with the paint.

So here is a test spot where I knocked off the pin-stripe decal. You can see that the sun has baked the stripe into the paint AND I screwed up with the rubber wheel stripping that pin-stripe and dug into the paint a little. I think I'm going to have to hit these areas with nicks with touch-up paint and wet sand them before attempting the paint correction.

Here's a part of the hood. I think someone attempted to scrub the grime off of it with a broom or something and scratched it up pretty good. Towards the left is where I applied the ScratchX and it made a decent difference but it'll need more work to really clean it up.

And then there is this; towards the leading edge of the hood there is basically a line of messed up paint. This was caused by the sun/wind deflector that was on the front of the hood and filled with dirt and debris for, at the least, the past four years. I'm thinking of sanding this back to clean it up, hitting it with spray touch-up paint, and wet sanding it to blend into the hood better. I know it wont be perfect, but if it looks horrible I'll just put the sun/wind deflector back on the hood!

 

[RandomNerd2000]

That scratching is a car wash brush. sand paper for your paint. You've got potential to have nice paint, how'd you get the stripe off? Along and along I ask the same question and never do it but it worked well for you so I'm curious.

 

[GLOCKer]

That scratching is a car was brush. sand paper for your paint. You've got potential to have nice paint, how'd you get the stripe off? Along and along I ask the same question and never do it but it worked well for you so I'm curious.

I used a rubber decal removal wheel and drill to to remove the pin-stripe. This one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B018WG2XYE?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

 

[CDW6212R]

Any hair dryer makes plenty of heat to remove vinyl, I've done that tons of times.

For the paint, don't sand or compound too much, the paint is much thinner after 20 years. It doesn't take much to go too far and the clear becomes so thin it doesn't last long after the buffing.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Thank you sir. I got a hatch last year that had a stripe on it but it's a silver stripe on a white hatch and I rarely notice it so I left it. I'm going to be working on this 2000 of mine, including swapping back to a matched fender, and I noticed that the donor truck has a purple stripe on it, which has got to go, it's on a white 96. Who's idea was purple on white? Beats me.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ford used purple on many of the Limited's from 1993 through the 90's. They liked turquoise also, look out for the trim color on those, and the seat edges.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I hadn't even thought about the truck being a Limited without the body molding, since 95s didn't have that. Hmm.

 

[GLOCKer]

Did the Limited models have some sort of chrome exhaust tip added from the factory or is the rusty junk I dealt with this evening aftermarket? LOL

Had to get out the dremel...

I also shot a quick clip of it idling. It runs pretty smooth for a neglected vehicle!

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool, but chrome wasn't a factory tip thing.

It sounds good, give it a little under hood bath when you have a chance. Spray the front to wet it all, then a half can of engine degreaser, let it set for five minutes(or lightly wipe/agitate stuff with an old wash mitt), and hose it off. Avoid too much water on the battery terminals, but it will help it a lot.

 

[toypaseo]

Did the Limited models have some sort of chrome exhaust tip added from the factory or is the rusty junk I dealt with this evening aftermarket? LOL

If you really wanted to keep the shiny tip look, opt for a full stainless tip...

 

[GLOCKer]

What's the proper gear oil for the rear end and what is the proper friction modifier to add? And how much will I need? Thank you!