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Rear Fiberglass Fenders

zhanx

Explorer Addict
Joined
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City, State
Up state NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 xls
Ok I am looking at getting Rear glass to match the front. Can any post pics or email me some of te install? I know its going to be tuff to install these but I am game for it. Also who knows a good way to remove the door skin? sawsall or a cut off wheel? never done it but looking for info. Anything will help

thanks
 



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off topic but, hows your supercharger comin?
 






Okay, I have no clue what you are asking. Fenders are on the front, not on the back. The back is a quarter pannel.

The glass on the quarter pannels is held in with 9mm nuts and " window kit "

To remove a door skin, grind the edge off with a grinder. Separate it with a air hammer with a chizel bit, or if you dont have one just a hand held hammer and chizzel.

Let me know if you need more detailed info. I have done dozens of door skins.
 






MONMIX said:
Okay, I have no clue what you are asking. Fenders are on the front, not on the back. The back is a quarter pannel.

The glass on the quarter pannels is held in with 9mm nuts and " window kit "

To remove a door skin, grind the edge off with a grinder. Separate it with a air hammer with a chizel bit, or if you dont have one just a hand held hammer and chizzel.

Let me know if you need more detailed info. I have done dozens of door skins.


Monmix, hes talking bout the rear fiberglass fenders, ones sold by perrys fab n fiber i believe(might be others that make it) Since he has front fiberglass, hes wanting the rear to match also....
 






95offroadx said:
off topic but, hows your supercharger comin?


its comeing i am in a holding pattern wait for my manifold.. hope its done soon..
and monmix rear glass and in fiberglass.. :D to match the front of course
 






MONMIX said:
Okay, I have no clue what you are asking. Fenders are on the front, not on the back. The back is a quarter pannel.

The glass on the quarter pannels is held in with 9mm nuts and " window kit "

To remove a door skin, grind the edge off with a grinder. Separate it with a air hammer with a chizel bit, or if you dont have one just a hand held hammer and chizzel.

Let me know if you need more detailed info. I have done dozens of door skins.


never done one a little more info would be sweet
 






Door skin 101

WEAR GLOVES DOING THIS JOB

remove the door, remove the glass ( I know and I am sorry ) remove the glass runs, disconnect the linkage to the door handle and the lock.

Put the door face up on a stand ( or a trash can )
Okay, see if you can follow me here, I currently dont have a door to show you, so I am gonna have to describe the best I can. Please bear with me.

With a grinder and a 40 grit disc, grind along the door edge. ( Wear, face hand and ear protection please ) As you grind you will see the fold ( hem ) separate. You will see a split. Keep walking that split all the way around the door.
The inside of the door where the glass goes is spot welded. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill out each spot weld. The belt area ( where you rest your elbow when the weather is nice ) will also need to be grinded in the same manner as the out side edge.

Get a chizel ( air hammer or other wise ) into one of these splits you just created. work it all the way around. Do the inside of the glass area too.
You arent done yet.
Where the intrusion beam is, there is one friggin' strong adhesive. Roll the door skin up and slice away at the adhesive with a utility knife or chizel.
All done right you should have the door skin in your hand, or on the floor.

Let me guess the next question is putting the new skin on ?
 






umm no.. i think it time for one of hey grandpa want to help with this? so i have to take off the whole skin i cant leave the window part?
 






what are you trying to accomplish ?
 






a factory look and finish when i get done
 






then you will need to do the whole door
 






fiberglass rear quarters on a explorer can be installed many different ways.
You can cut the metal out underneath, from just a trim around the fender well for clearance to removing almost the whole quarter (route I would take)
How the fiberglass is mounted or supported is up to you. You can glue or screw of use quick release fasteners. A factory like fit and finish is not really easy to get here, the fiberglass also tends to move a bit, so using bondo and the like to smooth out the fiberglass edges will not hold up forever.

Most of the rear fiberglass installs I have seen have been pretty rough, and would be best on a trail or off road truck rather then somebody who wants really pretty. Just FYI, just so you know what you are getting into.
 






To clarify my " whole door " statement.
Zhanx and I continued our conversation via. IM after my last post. as it turns out I was confused as to what he was doing. I thought he was just doing a door skin to door skin swap. I was incorrect. He is adding a fiberglass door skin that does not go all the way to the top of the door. Based on that I need to correct my statement.
Obviously if the skin goes half way up the door removing the whole skin would leave you with the EXACT OPPOSITE of a factory look and finish.
 






you said you wanted pictures and i believe clarkkent posted up some when he was installing his rear glass a few months ago, do a search and you should find him and it should give you an idea what itll look like
 












the messed up thing dave. thats my old thread on my front fenders..

off topic i finally finished my sub install.. only did one 10 i'll post pics on stuff in a seperate thread later..

i think i want to go the route of not having the zeus fittings and weld tabs.. clarkkents looks good but i want a better finish.. just the way i am. i no monmix its not stock but it needs to look like they came on the x front the factory.. remember i am the guy who redid the trim on his front fenders to match the factory trim.

oh and monmix if you look at that thread it gives you an idea of what i an working with, when i get them. Perry jr. didn't email me back yet.
 






Are these for function or more for looks? Install will depend a lot on what you want from the rear skins. Like Jaimie said there are many ways to mount rear glass. If they are for looks only, then I would rec just installing them directly over your stock sheet metal. This way you don't have to worry about waterproofing or anything. If your needing more room to accomodate more up travel and clearance, then be prepared for a lot of fabrication.
At minimum you will need:
sawsall
grinder +cutoff wheels
dremel tool
welder
dzus fasteners or fender washers
new wheel tubs if you are worried about water damage
longer gas hose and replacement/relocation of gas door

Also keep in mind that no matter which company you go with for rear glass (fiberwerx, Perry's, Maniak, or any others ) remember that it will not fit perfectly. Minor (major in some instances) trimming and sanding of the glass will be neccesary. Especially the inner lip around the wheel area, and the rear most portion of the quarter-panel near the tail lights will need work.

All this being said, if your a fairly decent mechanic, have some welding and body work skills then it is not a difficult job.

The hardest part is making sure all the tabs are properly aligned before welding them down. If your off at all, your glass will not line up and look like a$$. I suggest drilling holes in your glass first, then have a buddy hold it in place on the truck while you make the marks for the tabs on the sheet metal.
Dzus tabs or a decent fender washer kit is what I rec for mounting, but get the security heads so no one runs off with your skins. Camburg sells a really nice fender washer kit...It is much easier to install then dzus tabs, and it looks awesome once on.

hear is a link to get you started :
clicky here page 3,4, of this thread talks about mounting rear skins on an explo and shows you pics of how to cut your stock sheet metal.

PM me if you have any other questions.
EDIT: LINK will work...www.desertrides.com site is down for the moment
 






Fiberglass is cool.

I used the dzues fasteners with the welded on tabs.

1600tailgatersbeware.jpg


I cut as much as I could without having to re-tub the truck. I also only had 4" lift with 35s so you should be ok without having to make new tubs.
 






prozachappy said:
Are these for function or more for looks? Install will depend a lot on what you want from the rear skins. Like Jaimie said there are many ways to mount rear glass. If they are for looks only, then I would rec just installing them directly over your stock sheet metal. This way you don't have to worry about waterproofing or anything. If your needing more room to accomodate more up travel and clearance, then be prepared for a lot of fabrication.
At minimum you will need:
sawsall
grinder +cutoff wheels
dremel tool
welder
dzus fasteners or fender washers
new wheel tubs if you are worried about water damage
longer gas hose and replacement/relocation of gas door

Also keep in mind that no matter which company you go with for rear glass (fiberwerx, Perry's, Maniak, or any others ) remember that it will not fit perfectly. Minor (major in some instances) trimming and sanding of the glass will be neccesary. Especially the inner lip around the wheel area, and the rear most portion of the quarter-panel near the tail lights will need work.

All this being said, if your a fairly decent mechanic, have some welding and body work skills then it is not a difficult job.

The hardest part is making sure all the tabs are properly aligned before welding them down. If your off at all, your glass will not line up and look like a$$. I suggest drilling holes in your glass first, then have a buddy hold it in place on the truck while you make the marks for the tabs on the sheet metal.
Dzus tabs or a decent fender washer kit is what I rec for mounting, but get the security heads so no one runs off with your skins. Camburg sells a really nice fender washer kit...It is much easier to install then dzus tabs, and it looks awesome once on.

hear is a link to get you started :
clicky here page 3,4, of this thread talks about mounting rear skins on an explo and shows you pics of how to cut your stock sheet metal.

PM me if you have any other questions.
EDIT: LINK will work...www.desertrides.com site is down for the moment

ok i am a decent mechinic.. i am only missing a cutoff tool... this is the plan after perry jr. gets back to me with a price. (i got perry fronts hence the perrys rear to match)

1. order them
2. test fit
3. trim all metal out of hte way. doors via monmix and rears as needed.
4. fiberglass in the fender to match.
5. redo door trim
6. wheel wells.. i think i can use summit wheel tubs used them on other things so why not this.
7. redo sub box.

i wanted to do an aussie locker first but since they are slacking then i guess i do this, either way i need to finish the rear.. i want it more rear travel and looks as well as function.. sacrificing looks over function, but not by much. i can do all fiberglassing and finish work but cant paint (no air) when i get them i'll post and start this thread back up.
 



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Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
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