Riding down the freeway

[Turdle]

If chocks will keep it from rolling use those for now. The shift lever does get moved,

I am confused now. Turn key to on , not start but just to on. Cel does or does not light up with other cluster lights?

You stated you were looking at wrong space. I'm not clear about the correct one.

 

[joney]

If chocks will keep it from rolling use those for now. The shift lever does get moved,

I am confused now. Turn key to on , not start but just to on. Cel does or does not light up with other cluster lights?

You stated you were looking at wrong space. I'm not clear about the correct one.

The 'check engine' light is on the lower left of the instrument gage, Only saw it because the sunlight hit it at the right angle. It doesn't light up at all, with key on, or with truck running. The 'check gage' light is closer to the top of the instrument cluster, and I have no idea what that's for, but it does light up whenever the key is turned to on..

 

[Mbrooks420]

The 'check engine' light is on the lower left of the instrument gage, Only saw it because the sunlight hit it at the right angle. It doesn't light up at all, with key on, or with truck running. The 'check gage' light is closer to the top of the instrument cluster, and I have no idea what that's for, but it does light up whenever the key is turned to on..

The check gage light comes on when one of your “analog” gauges is reading outside of its safe zone.

 

[joney]

The brakes are a major item to make sure you trust them always, and on a trip. Given the dark fluid, it's a good time to bleed all of it out with new fluid. Don't worry about the ABS unless you accidentally allow air to get in the upper lines or master cylinder. You can bleed them easily with two people and keep the MC topped off regularly.

It takes a few minutes for each caliper to bleed fluid until it comes out clear in the bleeding hose. Suck out what can be from the MC to start with, and top it back up with the new fluid. I like a top brand for brake fluid, not any bargain stuff. Try this great Bosch if you can, it's one of the best among easy to buy brake fluid now;
Amazon product ASIN B07338GQM8

How much brake fluid would you buy, for this procedure? Have to look up how it's done. If I can avoid bleeding the ABS, or having to recruit a helper, would go much faster. Guess I'd get a turkey baster and take most of the fluid out of the MC without letting it get empty, put new fluid in and repeat. Time and budget constraints lead me to take on these various challenges, IF I can do them right, and safely. All the good answers I'm getting from everyone here, appreciated!

 

[joney]

The check gage light comes on when one of your “analog” gauges is reading outside of its safe zone.

Only time it lights up is upon first turning the key, just like the 'theft' light. Guessing that's OK. Thanks for the explanation!

 

[Turdle]

Check gage turns off when engine is running?

All bulbs should turn on with the key on bulb check, then turn off once engine is started.

Edit,answered while I was posting forget check gage light. Cel needs fixed.

 

[BKennedy]

You could gravity bleed the brakes. Don't need a helper. Remove as much of fluid from the MC as you can, refill with fresh fluid. Leave cap loose. Put piece of tubing on the right-rear bleeder valve. Stick other end in a pan or even a old water bottle. Crack and let drain keeping an eye on the MC so it doesn't go dry. Keep filling the MC until new fluid comes out bleeder valve. Repeat procedure left-rear, right-front, left-front.

Get yourself a quart of Vavoline synthetic brake fluid off Amazon. It's inexpensive, and has a higher boiling point than most race fluids. I've been using it for at least 15 years in all my vehicles.

 

[Josh P]

I use the turkey baster method, also works good for changing the power steering fluid.

 

[Rick]

Get yourself a quart of Vavoline synthetic brake fluid off Amazon. It's inexpensive, and has a higher boiling point than most race fluids. I've been using it for at least 15 years in all my vehicles.

I have been using the same fluid in all our vehicles. It's getting harder to find in local stores, but NAPA usually has it. It's good to know I can just order it from Amazon.

 

[Rick]

I use the turkey baster method, also works good for changing the power steering fluid.

I do that to try and get the crap up from the bottom of the master cylinder, but it's still important to open the bleeders to get the junk out of that end as well.

 

[joney]

Does the pedal feel firm once you turn the engine off?

Not really. It's about 3/4 of the way to the floor. Was hoping to avoid taking it to a shop, if I can fix the issue. All the shops around here are super busy. Cause old cars & trucks rock but need fixin!

 

[BKennedy]

Have you checked the brake pads for wear and unusual wear? They tell the story if you have worn or failed parts.

 

[joney]

Have you checked the brake pads for wear and unusual wear? They tell the story if you have worn or failed parts.

Retired mechanic said they looked good and would last the winter. Rotors looked fine no grooves, not rusty. He's not up to working on them however.

 

[BKennedy]

I just checked your profile and you are in Wisconsin. Maybe see if you can loosen the bleeder valves before you bother getting everything ready to bleed the system. If it takes a lot of torque to loosen them stop before they break off.

 

[joney]

I just checked your profile and you are in Wisconsin. Maybe see if you can loosen the bleeder valves before you bother getting everything ready to bleed the system. If it takes a lot of torque to loosen them stop before they break off.

Good idea! Going to spray them with PB Blaster first. Must be a pain to get them out if they break off. Pretty soon, time for more Fluid Film.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Good idea! Going to spray them with PB Blaster first. Must be a pain to get them out if they break off. Pretty soon, time for more Fluid Film.

Often breaking a bleeder means it’s time for a new caliper.

 

[Josh P]

Your brake system is probably due for some new parts.

 

[CDW6212R]

Your brake system is probably due for some new parts.

Ditto, and the basic parts are not expensive. I've been paying around $50 for OEM front pads, less for OEM rear pads, and in the $25-$35 range for each rotor. For my severe duty I manage to get over two years from the rear brakes, and more than a year for the front. In normal usage they lasted me about 45,000 miles with my first 98 Mountaineer.

Rock Auto is a great place to order most parts from when you need them in 2-3 days normally, plus they have a large variety of choices.

 

[DintDobbs]

@joney @CDW6212R +1 for RockAuto, always go there for parts on my Ex's!

 

[Fix4Dirt]

+2 RA has good prices too and 5% coupon always nearly iirc but do order everything at once piecemeal shipping will get ya and when possible if it doesnt secrafice quality order from the same warehouse (look at the truck icons)