Robb's SAS

[VonZipper]

The actual arch of the springs is not going to have that large of an effect on that angle of the pinion. The only way other than fixing the pads would be to lower the mounting point at the front of the springs. I am not knocking cory's work, I like what he has done to the rigs I have seen pictures for. I went to his webpage, and like what I saw. I am just observing the fact that your driveline will explode under flex with that angle.

 

[VonZipper]

And, actually, it will not drive for crap with that angle unless you cut the tubes off and rotated them. The ? fulcrom? point, or where the knuckles connect to the axle housing are at a bad angle also.

 

[Robb]

VonZipper
I am almost 100% sure the perches aren't welded yet, they are just hangin loose. It wouldn't make much since to weld them up when the final springs aren't even on.

Looking good Cory!

Robb

 

[CoryL]

Perches aren't welded on. I wouldn't weld them on like that.

Not sure what the end lift is. I personally hate measuring it because I think it is stupid. 2", 4", 6", who cares?

Build it to where you can clear the tires you want with the smallest amount of height and rubbing. Whatever that comes to is where you wanted to be!

 

[taxx]

Originally posted by CoryL
Perches aren't welded on. I wouldn't weld them on like that.

Not sure what the end lift is. I personally hate measuring it because I think it is stupid. 2", 4", 6", who cares?

Build it to where you can clear the tires you want with the smallest amount of height and rubbing. Whatever that comes to is where you wanted to be!

Thank you. That is how I feel.

 

[VonZipper]

I was just asking guys, don't get all bothered.

I saw the u-bolts on, and was just curious if that was where you put it? I did not imagine you would, but then again, stranger things have happened.

 

[AdamsGuitar]

Cory, have any idea what type of price we'd be looking at for a kit like this? Or is it too early to tell?

 

[Fischer]

Cory, Looking very clean! Nice work.

 

[JoshC]

Cory, i know i've told you a hundred times along with everyone else--your work is awesome. You take your time and make it look factory, that's what's making your business boom!

So when do you want mine? Sorry Robb, had to do it!

Happy trails!!

 

[Robb]

Originally posted by JoshC
So when do you want mine? Sorry Robb, had to do it!

No need to apologize to me.....................Cory is the one who has to move his truck.

I want to see the work on your coils too!

Robb

 

[CoryL]

Originally posted by CoryL:


I was thinking of selling this as a "kit," but I don't think it is possible. There are too many things that would make it impossible for the average guy to "bolt on." I had a hard time cutting out all the brackets and crossmemebers and I was using a plasma torch. I cannot imagine what it would have been like with a saw-zall or cutoff wheel!

I think I will sell the brackets for $500.

 

[AdamsGuitar]

Would that just be brackets and a goodluck pat on the back, or would there be instructions?

 

[TarHeel085]

Originally posted by CoryL
I think I will sell the brackets for $500.

when you do the coils on Josh's will you be selling the brackets for that too? and basically like a "kit" for the coils too.

 

[CoryL]

Originally posted by AdamsGuitar
Would that just be brackets and a goodluck pat on the back, or would there be instructions?

Instructions...

Lift front bracket up to frame, positioned under the body mount and mark holes. Drill one hole all the way through the frame. Drill two holes on bottom of the frame. Tap bottom holes to 1/2". Install hardware.

Position rear brackets where you want, based on the springs you are using (some springs are longer than others). Drill two holes all the way through the frame and two on the bottom. Tap bottom holes to 1/2". Install hardware.

Install leaf springs into front hangers. Install shackles. Install shackles to rear mounts. Tighten until bushings start to bulge.

There will be an optional trac-bar bracket I think. But those are the instructions.

 

[CoryL]

Originally posted by TarHeel085
when you do the coils on Josh's will you be selling the brackets for that too? and basically like a "kit" for the coils too.

The coil brackets will probably be more since there will be more work to get a trac-bar bracket (required) and the coil buckets.

Like the leafs, steering is up to you.

 

[AdamsGuitar]

I think I'm missing something here. Stupid question, but what else would be involved in doing the SAS, that you wouldn't mind going to the trouble of typing?

 

[CoryL]

Originally posted by AdamsGuitar
I think I'm missing something here. Stupid question, but what else would be involved in doing the SAS, that you wouldn't mind going to the trouble of typing?

I will also sell the spring over perches, u-bolts, spring pads, new engine crossmember and shock mounts within that $500.

First you have to remove all the stock suspension components, cut out all the brackets and crossmembers up there and remove the stock power steering pump.

Then you have to bolt in a pump from a vehicle with a TTB setup.

Then you bolt in the springs using whatever ones you want.

Set the axle under the springs and lightly bolt them in place. Once everything is set, you can set your caster and weld the spring perches in place.

Then you have to mount a steering box to the frame and custom make a steering shaft (I think I will be making these as well, but not included in the price). Then you have to get some custom lines made from the pump to the box.

Then you have to modify stock steering links or get new ones made.

Possibly get new brakelines.

Then you have to modify/lengthen/get new driveshafts.

It isn't easy, but the rewards of more flex are worth it in my opinion.

 

[JoshC]

I agree, i think it is very worth it.

Cory, have you thought about making driveshafts?

You said you had a buddy down there that did that right, do you know how much he is going to charge?

How much does it look like you will have to lenghten Robbs rear shaft?

Happy trails!!

 

[CoryL]

Originally posted by JoshC
Cory, have you thought about making driveshafts?

Yes, but to get the machines to properly weld and balance the driveshafts it isn't worth it. Without those machines, they would be useless on the street.

You said you had a buddy down there that did that right, do you know how much he is going to charge?

How much does it look like you will have to lenghten Robbs rear shaft?

No buddy in town. We have a shop here that will lengthen, etc. I can get completely new driveshafts from a variety of places.

As for cost, I have no idea. Re-tube and re-balance will probably be around $175 or so, but don't hold me to that.

 

[taxx]

When I had my rear lengthened and front lengthened and the flange changed it cst me $400 here in town. If you had all the measurements you could proly get it done cheaper somewhere else, but I dropped mine off and these guys did it right. I will have to have my front converted and lengthened after the SAS is done, but that shouldn't be too bad.