Service AdvanceTrac Error

[Simon Stillwater]

Well, I keep having this error every couple of days. I searched through the forum and I can't find this exact issue.
It scrolls through:
Pre-Collision Assist Not Available
Service AdvanceTrac
Check Park Aid



It pops up when I start the car or sometimes when I'm driving. Each time I'll stop the car, turn off the ignition and restart and it goes away. Any ideas on what this may be? 2017 Ex. Plat.

 

[blwnsmoke]

Take it to the dealer when it shows it so they can scan it.

 

[Jon M]

And when you get to the dealer, don't turn it off until they've seen it.

 

[Simon Stillwater]

Thanks guys, that's actually a great idea..I'm hoping I'm in a position where I can drive it to the dealer next time it happens. I'll leave it running so they can see it. I have video to back it up as well. Peter suggested a few other threads with similar issue but not exactly the same errors. I'll post them here for reference in case someone stumbles on this thread.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-management-advancetrac-system-errors.313232/
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-management-advancetrac-system-errors.313232/
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...and-collision-warning-faults-resolved.340639/
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-management-advancetrac-system-errors.313232/

 

[blwnsmoke]

Keep in mind that unless a dealer can scan it, they typically won't get approval from Ford. Ford has become very strict on warranty claims and codes are required for warranty approval for 99% of the cases... which makes the video somewhat worthless. Still good to have to show them what is going on for them to try to either duplicate or investigate.

 

[Simon Stillwater]

Well it happened again today, but I was on my way to work so I couldn't take it in. I'm now seeing a correlation to cold weather and the error. I can't say 100% that it is but each time this has happened it's been below 28F degrees, might just be a coincidence. I'm hoping it happens tomorrow morning so I can take it right to the dealer.

I'll keep this thread updated.

 

[ckc123]

This happened to me last night, and it was cleared this morning.. took it in and have not heard back from the dealer..

if they tell me that I have to bring it in when it shows the errors, I'm going to make a pretty blunt comment.. if you can grab "historic" codes from ODBII why can't you do it from other components on the canbus .. IMO they should be able to get this if they hook up the computer and scan it..

anyone know if this can be read by forscan?

 

[KayGee]

There's a pretty good chance you'll have some codes from messages like that and Forscan should be able to read them.

As long as you have stored codes, the dealer should be able to provide warranty repair - at least that has been my experience.

If no codes, the dealer is unlikely to do anything unless they can duplicate the problem in a short road test (video probably won't matter).

 

[Mlarv5]

Has it been snowing or freezing rain? If so there is your problem. The sensors tend to get frozen first, this could be any one of them. Wash the EX and pay attention to the sensors if they are really dirty I bet that is what is happening. I have had this happen a few times on road trips in the snow and slush. If not a trip to the dealer

 

[ckc123]

Neither for me.. cool (3-4 degrees) but dry..

 

[ckc123]

Grrr Grrr Grrr..

So.. From the dealership yesterday.. (Lights were off the next morning when I start the Ex the next morning)

"No Hard Faults, Road Tested, No Concerns Found, Soft Faults in History (U3003, U0415, U0418, C0063), Codes cleared"

They then told me they were going to charge me a diagnostics fee, but after a bit of a conversation with the lady at service....

I told them that 1) this is not a problem where I "think" there is an issue and bring it in, like a "it does not feel right", or a "there is a squeek" and they find no problem.. 2) this is a situation where the vehicle itself gave me 4 specific warnings on the console, and TOLD ME TO BRING THE VEHICLE IN FOR SERVICE 3) I understand that ford will not replace the parts if there is no "hard code" 4) There was no way I was going to pay for a diagnostics fee as I followed my responsibilities as a driver and brought the vehicle in when it said to.

They told me they would keep the issue "open" so I would not have to pay "right now"...

After getting home and looking up thos codes.

C0063 Yaw Rate Sensor - Brakes and Traction Control
U0415 Invalid Data received from Anti-Lock Brake System Control Module
U0418 Unexpected signal from break controller
U3003 Battery Voltage low

Needless to say, when I found out what the codes where, I called them back (it was after hours) and I left a message to call me.. I'm going to set them straight on their expectations of trying to charge me for a diagnostics fee as the codes in memory from the day before relate EXACTLY to the problem I brought it in form, the fact that it's not preset now, if not my problem, that's Fords issue

 

[Mlarv5]

That U3003 code for battery voltage low, might be a battery starting to go bad when cold out. Which would cause all the rest of the codes you are seeing. That might be why it is hard to reproduce battery gets warm and it works correct. Just a guess, but don't get pissed about it because no one wins and it just gets to be who can piss further. Just keep a cool head and open mind and think though the problems.

 

[KayGee]

That U3003 code for battery voltage low, might be a battery starting to go bad when cold out. Which would cause all the rest of the codes you are seeing. That might be why it is hard to reproduce battery gets warm and it works correct. Just a guess, but don't get pissed about it because no one wins and it just gets to be who can piss further. Just keep a cool head and open mind and think though the problems.

I've heard the low battery line being a problem, but if the electronics on this vehicle can't cope with low voltage without going into a failure mode, then there is a problem. A vehicle shouldn't start flashing warnings from multiple systems, and/or shutting down systems because the battery is low and signals aren't getting processed correctly. That can be problematic for an inexperienced driver that may not know better at the time and could be dangerous if they are on a busy road and think they have to pull over for fear they may damage the vehicle if they keep driving it.

As for the battery, I'd get a load test at a local auto parts store (usually free) and see if it is a problem or rule it out. With it being a 2017, I'd hope the battery isn't failing already.

 

[ckc123]

It's not the battery (assumed will test when I get home and get the tester on it) .. when I bought it a year ago (used for about 2 months) the battery was dead, so they put a new one in at the delaership.. I suspect the code was from back then.. I've confirmed the cables are tight on the posts..

 

[ckc123]

OK.. Good news.. I was able to have a good talk with the shop foreman who got a chance to look at the vehicle in detail, and he explained a LOT about the situation and why mine is kinda unique.

Mine is more rare situation due to the Yaw Rate soft code which does not happen with most of the failures seen. the cascade of errors was started by the yaw rate issue and not kicked off by an ABS sensor. we went over the exact driving conditions recorded by the snapshot (speed,throttle, steering angle etc,) and I have a good understanding of how I could possible recreate this in the same spot.

at the end of the day there are no parts replaced (which is fine..) but I now know what to keep an eye out for and what conditions lead to a visit to the shop when/if it does happen again.

 

[thefranchise713]

I've heard the low battery line being a problem, but if the electronics on this vehicle can't cope with low voltage without going into a failure mode, then there is a problem. A vehicle shouldn't start flashing warnings from multiple systems, and/or shutting down systems because the battery is low and signals aren't getting processed correctly. That can be problematic for an inexperienced driver that may not know better at the time and could be dangerous if they are on a busy road and think they have to pull over for fear they may damage the vehicle if they keep driving it.

As for the battery, I'd get a load test at a local auto parts store (usually free) and see if it is a problem or rule it out. With it being a 2017, I'd hope the battery isn't failing already.

There is a failure mode strategy to low voltage, it just tends to suck in implementation. They need to improve it. I had a bad cell in mine and never had the failure mode kick in--but that only means I was able to maintain proper system voltage during the duration. Assuming the voltage drops enough, you should get a load shed message. A marginal battery won't drop the voltage enough at one given point to trigger the load shed warnings. (LOW BATTERY LESS FEATURES, etc.)

Should be a more sensitive failure effects strategy to signal the battery is bad, not just a single low voltage code that hides in a module that nobody is inclined to check.

Agree with your point.

 

[Simon Stillwater]

I finally have a chance to catch up on here. I still have this problem and it's always on colder days (sub 30 degrees F) and the car hasn't been running for several hours. Happened again a week ago on a cold morning. Doesn't matter if it's snowing or dry but the temp is the trigger for the video I posted. It's never once happened on a day above 35 degrees. It makes me wonder if it's the battery going into a lower voltage as thefrancshise713 and Mlarv5 noted above. I think I might wake up early tomorrow when it's the coldest and see if I can take a battery reading.

 

[Matthias]

Hello, i have this Issue since yesterday. Temperature is warm, battery reading is ok. 12.3V Voltage.
Did you figure out in the meantime what the issue was?
I am driving a 2019 Explorer platinum with 23k miles on it.
I didn’t do anything on the car recently. Except for rear brake pads change.

Best regards
Matthias

 

[peterk9]

I finally have a chance to catch up on here. I still have this problem and it's always on colder days (sub 30 degrees F) and the car hasn't been running for several hours. Happened again a week ago on a cold morning. Doesn't matter if it's snowing or dry but the temp is the trigger for the video I posted. It's never once happened on a day above 35 degrees. It makes me wonder if it's the battery going into a lower voltage as thefrancshise713 and Mlarv5 noted above. I think I might wake up early tomorrow when it's the coldest and see if I can take a battery reading.

Did you ever get this resolved?

Peter

 

[zarm55]

Hello, i have this Issue since yesterday. Temperature is warm, battery reading is ok. 12.3V Voltage.
Did you figure out in the meantime what the issue was?
I am driving a 2019 Explorer platinum with 23k miles on it.
I didn’t do anything on the car recently. Except for rear brake pads change.

Best regards
Matthias

I had this same issue happen two or three times yesterday. Has anyone been able to figure out the cause/fix for this issue?