sn0border88's SAS Thread | Page 23 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

sn0border88's SAS Thread

WARNING: This swap will be longer than bmxking's :eek:

Thanks to tig for a real steal that I couldnt pass up ($50), it all started with a d44 from a 73' Bronco. This means its drum braked, coil sprung with LP housing complete hub to hub with r/a's.

But, its matching width. :D

Its in great shape as far as EB axles are concerned. It has 3.50's which upon inspection are in PERFECT condition. Not one chip on any of the ring gear teeth. Also the rust isnt too bad, its simply surface rust, nothing damaging. Also most of the bolts so far are coming off very well, only breaking a few. Not bad for 31 years of rust.

So far in the plans are yukon 4.88's with full spool or lincon locker. Disk brake conversion VIA junkyard or broncograveyard, rear XJ 8" lift leafs and heimjointed crossover. To complete the swap ill be getting new cromo shafts front and rear with a new 5on5.5 bolt pattern for the 8.8 and 4.88's with a detriot. Also rounding it out are some new rubbers, either 35" boggers or MT/R's on 5on5.5 steelies/beadlocked pending on the DD status upon completion of the project. And, if it is no longer a DD when I finish, the top is coming off. :eek: :thumbsup:


EDIT with final prices

Upon completion it now had a Fullwidth d44/9" with 36" TSL-SX, 5.13 gears spooled rear and many other goodies.


Prices:
Gears D44/9" 5.13: $150 from PBB
D44 Master Install: $109.99 from PORC on pirate
9" Master Install: $89.99 from PORC on pirate
D44 Carrier: $60 Ebay
9" Spool: $129.99 from PORC on pirate
1976 f-150 Highpinion Drum Brake D44 : $85 from Junkyard
D44 Disk Brake Outers: $50 from Junkyard
1978 F-150 9": $50 from Junkyard
5 on 5.5 Rims: $20 from Junkyard
4 36x12.5x15 TSL-SX: $ 250 from Pragon Board
1 36x12.5x15 TSL Radial: $18 from Junkyard
Shocks: $100 from Jeff Daniels Jeeps
D44 Spring Perch: $20 Jeff Daniels Jeeps
U-Bolts (Custom) : $30 from local u-bolt shop
Brake Pads/Caliper: $31.77 National Auto
Leaf Spring Hardware: $48 Jeff Daniels Jeeps
Replacement A4LD: $65 Junkyard
Conversion U-Joint: $25 National Auto
Extend Brakelines: $73 from local brakeline shop
Steel: $56

Without what I paid those who helped, plus the gear installs I have about 1,500 into this.


Scrapping the TTB: PRICELESS
 

Attachments

  • DSC06381.JPG
    DSC06381.JPG
    53.9 KB · Views: 2,838
  • DSC06382.JPG
    DSC06382.JPG
    65.3 KB · Views: 2,846
  • DSC06383.JPG
    DSC06383.JPG
    21.8 KB · Views: 2,828
  • DSC06384.JPG
    DSC06384.JPG
    48.4 KB · Views: 2,812
Last edited:



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Finished product.
 

Attachments

  • mini-X-Member 4.JPG
    mini-X-Member 4.JPG
    68.5 KB · Views: 1,177
  • mini-X-Member 3.JPG
    mini-X-Member 3.JPG
    77.1 KB · Views: 2,218
  • mini-X-Member 2.JPG
    mini-X-Member 2.JPG
    78.7 KB · Views: 554
  • mini-x-Member.JPG
    mini-x-Member.JPG
    41 KB · Views: 556



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Next projects, and the old crossmember.

We did the milling for the pass side knuckle in-house, not bad for a first time eh?
 

Attachments

  • mini-Torch Cut.JPG
    mini-Torch Cut.JPG
    73.4 KB · Views: 551
  • mini-Milled Knuckle 2.JPG
    mini-Milled Knuckle 2.JPG
    53.3 KB · Views: 527
  • mini-Histeer.JPG
    mini-Histeer.JPG
    59.4 KB · Views: 548
  • mini-Histeer 2.JPG
    mini-Histeer 2.JPG
    69.2 KB · Views: 621






Those welds look good. Are they tig?
 






Tig on the bushings and x-member caps. All the frame boxing and frame-to-crossmember were mig.
 






Nice job on making everything strong! The welds and fabrication look very beefy. The shackles should be kept from swinging backwards by the crossmember.

That being said you may still have the problem of the main leaf bending. That may be because of the nature of having the shackles in front rather than in the rear. When you slam into something, a rock for example, most of the weight of that impact gets sent back on the rear leaf mount. The attachment point for the suspension is the main leaf so most of the force is exerted there. Perhaps adding a anti wrap bar parallel with the driveshaft would prevent that completely.

You need a front bumper for that thing. The front of the truck looks naked without it.
 






Awesome welds sn0
 






Nice job on making everything strong! The welds and fabrication look very beefy. The shackles should be kept from swinging backwards by the crossmember.

That being said you may still have the problem of the main leaf bending. That may be because of the nature of having the shackles in front rather than in the rear. When you slam into something, a rock for example, most of the weight of that impact gets sent back on the rear leaf mount. The attachment point for the suspension is the main leaf so most of the force is exerted there. Perhaps adding a anti wrap bar parallel with the driveshaft would prevent that completely.

You need a front bumper for that thing. The front of the truck looks naked without it.

The shackles are kept from swinging back more than 10 degrees, they hit the crossmember at that point. That was one of the main reason I made a new one.

I am aware this doesnt change much of my breaking leafs problems, but it will add to the solution. An anti wrap bar is in the works, if you read my earlier post. I already ahve the bushing ends welded up, and the axle mounts made. Now I just need to make the rear crossmember and get the right tube insert for the heim joint at the frame end.

I also will do a front bumper when time comes, thats another reason I plated the frame.

Great minds think alike I guess. :D
 












The shackles are kept from swinging back more than 10 degrees, they hit the crossmember at that point. That was one of the main reason I made a new one.

I am aware this doesnt change much of my breaking leafs problems, but it will add to the solution. An anti wrap bar is in the works, if you read my earlier post. I already ahve the bushing ends welded up, and the axle mounts made. Now I just need to make the rear crossmember and get the right tube insert for the heim joint at the frame end.

I also will do a front bumper when time comes, thats another reason I plated the frame.

Great minds think alike I guess. :D


Sounds good dude, keep up the good work.
 






oooh... sexy... *drool*
 






Fabrication looks great, but you approach angle on the other hand sucks.
 






When does the crossover steering get put on?
 






Fabrication looks great, but you approach angle on the other hand sucks.

I guess your used to jack stand approach angle, so anything compared to that sucks. :D

Uhh, histeer will go in once I get all the parts. I still need the right size heim joints, I need to turn down the tube to get a good chamfer and have it match the smalled tube inserts.

I need to machine a wrench flat into the tierod so I can adjust it with a wrench.

I also need chevy caliper brackets and outer axle shafts to go with my chevy knuckles.
 






I guess your used to jack stand approach angle, so anything compared to that sucks. :D

Yea specially since I went with the Ultra high clearance jack stands....
thefinger.gif


Is that black duct tape on the passenger side spring?
 






No, thats a high-tech-trail-repair-hailmary that the opposite (already bent from the other one breaking) spring doesnt suffer the same fate.


Ok, its Gorrila Tape. But hey, that stuff works.
 






Looking good, so when we going wheelin':D
 






to much on my plate now, wheelin is taking a backseat during the cold weather.
 






I got a 76 wagoneer front today. Im stealing the calipers, caliper plates and stubs for my histeer conversion.

Yes I could of just gotten those parts at the yard for less, but that would of cost me $60 and I would of had to pull them there. For $85 I got the whole thing and put in my truck. :D Im gonna mill the knuckles and sell them and the housing if I can.

Work to commence this week.
 






Got it all tore down, ready for the swap once I get the calipers tomorrow.

The jeep axle has a differnt yoke on it than mine, it uses the u-bolts instead of straps. Im gonna switch my yoke over because I (an everyone who wheels with me) is sick of my u-joint flying 1 or 2 times per trip.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





u-bolts are much better than the crappy straps that they used on later model yokes....
 






Back
Top