SparkyXplorer-BW4406 Swap | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

SparkyXplorer-BW4406 Swap

Only the E shift 4406 requires the sport gas tank, it is required to clear the shift motor mounted on the t case. Cleaance between the 4 door tank bracket and the manual shift tank is TIGHT but it does fit.


The manual case and linkage fit in the explorer like it was meant to be there from the factory.
The shift lever not only looks great when installed properly but it works effortlessly. I am able to put my 96 in N and shift in and out of 4hi and 4 low with no issues now, no grinding, no anything. Just reach down and pull on the lever and watch the dash lights.

Last week I was launching my boat at Lake Mac, I got stuck. The trailer sunk into the mud and the ex was stopped dead in its tracks. I got out, aired down the tires to 14 psi, un hooked the boat and the ex drove right out of the 4 massive holes I had dug. I had to pay a tractor to launch my boat (sucked) but I did not have to pay anyone to un stuck my truck.
Later that night we went 4x4ing in the sand dunes that used to be the lake bottom, 4 low at 40 mph in the soft sand, bouncing all over the dunes and climbing up their faces was *****in. The 4 door with the V8 and low range on 33's even with an open front and a worn out LS rear is a kick in the ass.
The 35/65 split AWD was never capable of doing this

Just the way the truck feels with the steering loosening up, the tires not wearing out so quickly, and the less frequent trips to the gas station make this conversion WELL worth it. On top of that is added the power gain you get in 2wd off the line and passing power......

I cannot say enough about the 5.0L explorer with the manual t case, the 4406 is a monster and the low range just plain kicks butt. the fact that it all bolts in makes me think there was at least one guy in the Ford engineering dept when they were building the F-150 manual t case edition that was thinking of us and smiling.

When i was doing my BII with the 5.0L conversion I knew this case was an option, but because of its size I chose to go the expensive AA adapter and 1354 t case route. Now that I have a 4406 in my 96 if I could go back I would look alot more closely at using this case in my trail rig, the frame rails might require a notch, but it would have saved $1200 or so over the rebuild the 4r70w and aa adapter route and given me a much much lower low gear.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





410, Do you know if your drive shafts came from a air-ride exped. or a std. suspension exped?

Cause I found one online, from a 2000 std suspension 5.4 exped....I sent them a message trying to figure out a few details but they have not replied yet...
 






No idea :)
As I said I went to denver Ford after calling them to confirm (called all over) they had F-150s and Expedition or two on their lot of the years and model I was looking for. I found I think it was a 98 expedition with no drivetrain in it. I looked at the drivetrain they had on the shelf and confirmed it was the 4r70w with an e shift 4406 and I said I need th edriveshafts from this truck. I learned of the air ride option later after I already had the d shafts at home.

I gathered parts just based on the lists I made from the pioneers on this forum who did the conversion before me.

I did not know if my d shafts would work until the last hour of my conversion when the t case was in place and the d shafts were ready to go in. Luckily they fit. If they did not I would simply take them both to my local driveline shop (whom I have used several times in the past on my BII) and had the d shafts modified for a couple hundred bucks so they would fit, that was my back up plan.

So sorry I dont know if mine were from an air ride truck or not. They are both from a 98 expedition Eddie Bauer with a 4.6 and 4r70w e shift 4406.
My conversion (as most are) is a mix match of parts from different yards, heck I have a geo boot and a Nissan shift knob. I* had to convert my 4406 to use the correct speed sensor, that was another $300+ because I had to locate the parts online, that took many hours on the phone and a few weeks to fid a guy who followed what I was saying, he had a 4406 manual t case with a cracked housing and was willing to remove the tailhousing, speedo drive gear and parts and ship them to me. Not an easy thing to locate at all..

but well worth the effort and $$$ spent for sure.
I could not have done this conversion without first seeing it and asking 4000 questions on this forum.

My advice is read all the threads, take notes and make a parts list.
What d shafts will work has been covered. Anyone parting out a vehicle should know the information you need (year, model, drivetrain, etc) to confirm if you are getting the correct parts. the air ride question has been asked and covered in one of those threads...you just gotta find it :)
 






I called and ordered a 99 expedition rear drive shaft--

guess I got lucky. If you want to oreder one from Wichita Kansas, I could give you their phone number, maybe they remember the exact application they shipped to me.

seems it was a 5.4 liter without air ride--


Oh, BTW new U-Joint numbers are 330, and 331.
The precision parts book only lists 331. Be warned! You'll need one of each.
 






All right well, I plan to order the reardrive shaft that I found online as soon as they message me back...

Today I went and hit the JY and scored some stuff for $25 total...
Picture%20020.jpg


I got the black floor mount (top of pic) and went over to a 2ndgen X and tried to make it fit up against the center console...Not sure if I will get it to fit correctly with shifter but it follows the trans hump line pretty dang well. Also not pictured is the little link bar between the linkage and t-case.

Just needing both drive shafts and I plan on buying boomin as soon as I get back from the a little trip (leaving tonight) and if they e-mail me back online then I will buy that one and I will have all the parts not including fluid and other small things...


Cost as of now: $241.10
 






If you SLOWLY go around the edge of the white rubber thing with a razor knife and separate it from the metal plate, you can get that under the carpet as a sound and moisture barrier. The plate inside is too large though-
throw away the plastic trim piece--

You're getting things way faster than I found them--good job!
 






Just got back from a trip yesterday, I bidded on a rear drive shaft before I left for the trip and the auction on ebay ended just early today. I scored a rear drive shaft out of a 2000 expedition 5.4L with 52k for 39 bucks, but then the shipping was 50 so came out to 89.95

Since I was leaving town I decided to wait to pick the front shaft from boomin till I got back so I sent him a msg and hopefully soon I will have the front drive shaft in the mail

Total for swap as now: 331.05
 






So the rear drive shaft arrived the other day, It looks a bit rusty (specially for 52k miles that are suposiely on it), so hopefully the U-joints are still good...

I drained the new case the other day and I am not sure if the debris that was in the oil pan was from inside the case or if it was just some dirty that was rubbed off of the outside, I might buy a few extra quarts of fluid and give it a little flush....Any recommended fluid that you guys like?

Also what type of sealent to use for inbetween the trans/t-case?

This swap could happen now, but I think I am just going to wait for my front shaft to come so I have everything I need before I start it...I mean I supose I could go 2wd but as soon as I get this in I will be wanting to test out my new 4x4, and my new 2wd :burnout:
 






i used dexron III. the sealent in between i would think black rtv. Thats what i used in between the tranny and the case and it holds up fine.

driveshafts will all have surface rust unless they are painted or aluminum, so don't worry about it.
 






This is unrelated to your swap but could you measure the distance between the mating surface on front of the t-case input to the tip of the t-case female input?
I'm seeing if I need a spacer to do my NP208 swap.
For the gasket, i'd use this stuff called "The Right Stuff." It works really well.
 












the end of the input is aproxx 1 1/4" out past the mating sureface of the t-case

R-rated for sure...
 






Ultra Black RTV for a sealant, or spray a gasket on a gasket.

Use Mercon V for both the transmission and transfer case. Mercon is now obsolete, thus it and Dexron III do not any longer meet the requirements. Buy the better fluids, the better fuel mileage and life will pay for them. Regards,
 






Hey man, what's the hold up? Get that thing in already so we can go wheelin!
 






Thanks, lol

I don't know if you saw in the Slaughter house thread that I happended to break off the head of one of the front U-Joint retaining bolts....and that is still stuck in there

I've been messing around a bit in 2 wheel drive and I am really wanting to see what she has in 4...Today I took a "detour" :p: home and went up some hills that I thought would be a decent challenge in 4x4, but she made it so I was happy
 






Is that on the front differential?
 






Yeah...:(
 






Well, looks like that axle is toast, time to SAS!
 






But,....Wait....,UH....







I wish get rid of the Torsion..."Drool"
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Featured Content

Back
Top