supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

[410Fortune]

I ran a large ground to the frame through the floor and one to the body right by the battery
Bronco ii been that way for years works fine

I did not add a + post under the hood for jump starting, that is a Greta idea.. instead I just jump starting it through the hatch

My bronco carries a winch that I can use up front or on the back… many times I winch from the back. It is super nice to be able to open the hatch and be shielded from snow or rain, hook the rear winch lines directly to the battery and operate the winch from the back of the truck while pulling explorers back onto the trail lol

 

[vroomzoomboom]

the box kit came with 1 gauge - and + wire. i also thought i would be short on it, so i had friend (actually he was the one helping with the coil pack harness jamie) bring me some 0 gauge. wow. i never knew it was that big if a difference. so i will use that for the batter to frame then any body grounds to frame after that. i also have a monster sized wire from the alt to to fuse beside the power distribution box that i saved when i had member celly's truck that i have to find and use it as well. will also have to figure out where to put the master cut off switch if i use it.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

battery box is pretty much final. have to find the bolts for the lid, redo a couple of power wired for my amps while im back there and done.
today i wanted to get away from wiring, and mount some stuff. had to anyway so i could finish routing the main power wire. i started looking around my shed and finding a few things i forgot i had. one was a different coolant bottle, and the other was a overflow/washer tank that i cut up. figured it would free up some more room on the passengers corner, might as well use em.
took the bracket for the vacuum pump and cut it so i could mount it to another part to mount to (i've said it before and i will say it again. there is a million and one uses for bed frame.).

ignore my booger welding skills.

this is what the vacuum pump and coolant bottle are going to mount to.

thought it was way better them laying the vacuum pump on the fender apron. also figured if i cut the factory coolant tank off, and use the bottle, more space. hopefully that wont bite me later. also have some breathing room to drill the washer tank for the tube that will be needed for my meth kit.

also mounted the remote battery boosting terminals.

i will run the positive cable to it, then branch everything off up front from it. i am trying to figure out if i should leave all the old wire in there, or run new stiff. evils always had a weird charging issue where is likes to be around 13.1v. running larger wire may or may not help. i am also going to run a negative wire from the booster terminal to the frame, one from the block to the frame at the same place, under the passengers seat going from the body to the frame, then from the intake to the firewall. still have to wire in the vacuum booster into the holley and also the vacuum line from it to the brake booster. still also have to deal with the blower pulleys alignment but wanted to get this done first because once again this guy hates wires.
i also now have room to move my puke tank from the drivers side to the passengers side. will have to see however.

 

[410Fortune]

Do you use your cruise control?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Do you use your cruise control?

i do. that is NOT leaving lol.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

slowly plugging away. i look at it a couple of hours here and there during the week will add up, and they do. had to get a new vacuum block that can in on tuesday, so thats done. the meth pump is wired in except the ground which only needs a ring terminal. everything concerning the battery is now done. its all 1 gauge or 0. went a little overboard and did the starter with 0 gauge and the wire going to the fuse near the power distribution box now has 1 gauge from the positive jumper post (which goes directly to the battery). still debating on adding a few more body grounds. so far i have one up front from the jumper to the frame, battery to the frame at the back, and one from the block to the frame as well. i have another that goes from the firewall to the intake, but its 4 gauge.
still need to wire the vacuum pump in to both power and the terminator, then i can clamp the high ram down and finish the pulley alignment and pipe the meth kit in.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

the little update so far

the little vacuum reservoir that i am using, or modified. this is the one that the explorers use for the heater controls. its also from dono's old truck. it keeps giving and giving.

everything is wired, finalized and in its place now. the guy here that tried to tune it but did get it to run for me told me how to wire the relays in for the vacuum pump to work. just have to run the line for the meth pump over to the drivers side (fitting for that will be here tomorrow, or today depending when you read this).

going to take the snout to a machine shop and have them mill a little of the pulley hub. i think if i push it in more it will hit the seal so i will have them do that and press it back in for me. this weekend is going to be very nice out so i am hoping to get a major chunk done and hope to turn the key next weekend providing murphys law doesnt strike me down at the knees.

 

[donalds]

I love the vac ball mod

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I love the vac ball mod

hopefully it works. figured it was small enough i could find a spot for it. the only other problem is, its small enough. guess ill find out if it works the first time i need the brakes, which would be the school cross walk down the street. meh.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

todays disaster, i mean update.
super nice today. figured i would finish all the wiring, and start putting the intake on for good. dropped the supercharger snout off to a machine shop on Thursday. Friday i had called them and they didnt have a chance to get it done. wasnt worried have other things to do. meth kit done have to put a fitting in the throttlebody and plumb the hose into it (push lock line and connectors plus have the lines already in place). also put the interior back together. the last thing to wire in was the waterpump. found a place by the abs pump so i used one of the bolts for the relay to hang from. there are also a couple of ground points near it behind the power distribution box that i used to ground the relay and the pump as well. figured i would wire it into one of the ignition wires under the column (want to use the holley to control it, but will do that later). looked at my seat and it was a little too forward for my fat ass to slide under the dash. power seat needs power to move. havent dropped a battery in to power the truck up, what better time.
and this folks is where wrenches go flying for distance and not accuracy.....
put the cables on. interior lights turn on.......then go off.....then go on again, off again then nothing. dead.
*scratches head.
pull the cables off. wait a few seconds. put them back on. same thing, lights go on, go off, go on, go off then dead.
*head tilt. this isnt right.
thinking its something goofy with the lights, try the power seat. nothing.
grab my volt meter. have about 12.3v on the battery. put the cables back on, same on the terminals on the battery.
walk up front, have about 11.2v on the boost point. ok, lost a volt, its a 15-17 foot stretch to cover. from the negative on the boost point to the alt, 11.2v. boost point neg to the fuse on the side of the distribution box (booth sides) 11.2 volts.
i did discover the master cut off switch doesnt work the way its suppose to. and i know you are going to say thats the problem but its not because the truck is still getting power.
the layout of the cables goes like this.
positive, from the battery to the boost point up front. from there, one goes to the starter, one to the fuse on the side of the distribution box and one to the alt all from the boost point. the electric fans are also on there, and the power for the vacuum pump.
negative, from the batter to the frame at the battery then one from the battery to the body. upfront, frame to the boost point, frame to the motor block, motor block to the body.
whisky tagno foxtrot.....

 

[vroomzoomboom]

update from yesterday (shakes head).
so i spent the morning trying to find answers as to why evil was being evil. messaged 4pointslow to ask what his thoughts were. lucky for me i also caught him at a time he could talk on the phone. tell him what was done, and what its now doing. he bounces a few things at me. he also asked a few things that i didnt know just yet. once again, super nice out today, while hes on the phone i go outside and start checking on a few things he asked, and a few he didnt ask. put the cables back on the battery, lights come on. this time they stay on.
i think this wont last try the seat. it tries to move but stops. try the other way, same thing. then i figure to try my lights. guess what! they come on!. from what i can figure is the master cutoff switch had corrosion on the contacts and wasnt making a good connection. the switch must have needed a few turns for it to clean up. my lesson on buying a switch off amazon.
anyway my fat ass had to wedge itself between the seat and dash. wired the last wire for the water pump (and by a miracle that worked). as far as i know, other then changing one wire which 4point pointed out, and a couple of wires for my amps that can wait, all my wiring is done!!!!!!!1
ya! and hopefully the truck doesnt start on fire!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

also i now have no voltage drop from the battery to the boost points, or any other place that has power from the battery. go figure. that truck once again earned its name.

 

[4pointslow]

The vacuum tank you have, I can see it was modified with brass fittings.
They had a one way check valve in them which I assume is gone now, did you find a way to add one somewhere else?
The check valve stops the vacuum(to the HVAC controls) from dropping when you go open throttle.

 

[410Fortune]

I was gonna say I have zero voltage drop after a 12’ (4 meters for you northern types) run of 0 gauge wire from hatch to engine bay
Stupid master kill switch bad switch bad

Thanks for the laugh about throwing wrenches for distance not for accuracy lmfao

 

[vroomzoomboom]

The vacuum tank you have, I can see it was modified with brass fittings.
They had a one way check valve in them which I assume is gone now, did you find a way to add one somewhere else?
The check valve stops the vacuum(to the HVAC controls) from dropping when you go open throttle.

damn. didnt know that. guess i'll see if it works when i fire the pump up. that is going to be solely for my brakes. the rest of the truck is going off what the motor is making. didnt find a way to add another. im running out of room lol.

I was gonna say I have zero voltage drop after a 12’ (4 meters for you northern types) run of 0 gauge wire from hatch to engine bay
Stupid master kill switch bad switch bad

Thanks for the laugh about throwing wrenches for distance not for accuracy lmfao

im contemplating about getting a different one. the main reason i have one is for when i park it in the winter. wont be able to get to the battery using the hatch or passengers door when i park it in the winter. even the way i have it now wont be much fun, but i can still get to it.
i have done that before when i was a bodyman working on my capri when i had it after hours. the shop i worked as is on the main drag here in town with glass overhead doors. something pissed me off, and out the door went a wrench. i was luck for, one, the doors were open and two, no traffic at that moment. flew out the door, took one bounce off the parking lot ground and landed in the street i think 100 feet away. whoopsy.

 

[410Fortune]

I always think of the scene from ford vs Ferrari when he hucks the wrench at Shelby at takes out the windscreen of his mg
lol lol

Few seconds of comfort can come with lots of regret later hahahaha keep up the good work vroom vroom drive that sucker around this season!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

its now looking like i have done something other then wiring for an eternity plus a day. yesterday i wanted to test the meth kit. turn the key, hit the test button, nothing. check the fuse, its fine. then i realize when i was cleaning up the wires from the controller i cut the 12v switch wire off, and not only of but flush with the connector. sounds like a problem for another day.
moving along i also wanted to put the intake on. motor has only been sitting open to the elements for the past month protected with a old t shirt. you'd think that would be easy but you find out fast just how heavy those are and awkward when you are trying to align two gaskets and not smear silicone all over the place. they give you studs to screw into the heads but i remembered how fun a intake is to get off without bolts, or bolts you had to leave in while lifting it off the motor. hard pass, bolts went in. torqued it down, called it a night. went out today and retorqued it (anyone that has put a sbf intake on knows you have to torque it about 48 times before you are done)
with that out of the way put the water pump on. i think i might have a problem with the thermostat housing bypass hose. they look like they wont line up. will have to check willzilla's thread on what happen with his (same pump). had to also take the snout and hub to a machine shop to shave a 1/8th off the back side of the hub because i thought it was going to be too close the the seal and retainer. they told me it was close, but not there yet. asked them to put it back on at a certain measurement. tried it yesterday as well, too far back by .075. dropped that off this morning, picked it up after work, bang on. prepped the blower to on as well. was going to do it tomorrow but i was impatient, so it also went on tonight as well. will go tomorrow retorque the intake, blower and also the snout. i was going to clearance the headers but it is driveable so i will do that at another time. i am going to try to button everything up this weekend possibly and start it either next week, or next weekend. i want to drive the thing already lol.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

kind of a fail day today. kinda.

retorqued the intake. picked a few random bolts. they seemed fine. off to the next project.
ran a fitting before the rotors for vacuum only to the little ball inside the fender (not the one i put in, the factory one) so that will work once again.
i also had this clanging around my noggin. the base is higher then the other intake i had. that ment the fuel rails are also higher. fuel lines no longer reach. had one scrap piece of 8an that i could use. every 6an was too short. theres a guy 10 mins away that runs a speed shop from his house, lucky he had 6an but in black. also said nobody really orders stainless line anymore just black line. told him not to worry about it. well, the lines wernt in even 10 mins as i drove to change all the lines form the filler (which i forgot how much suck it is to route a line to it) forward were changed and are now black (its a ocd thing). also put the thermostat and housing on as well.
the other hang up was how i wanted to do my meth injection nozzle.

figured this would be the perfect spot to mount it. yank the vacuum tube, tap the hole, screw in the nozzle.
nope.

too deep. was going to put it on top, but when the blade swings open it would hit it. guess it goes into the intake tube. didnt really want it there, but dont have a choice really. that will be tomorrows job after go to the folks place for a while, say happy mothers day to the woman that didnt give birth to me (adopted at birth, they told me at a very young age and i am happy they did) but also let me live, and trust me i did give them more then one reason to make it "look like an accident".

 

[donalds]

That looks like a great spot for your methanol nozzle
but I put mine in roughly the same spot and had trouble
You want the nozzle to be pointing to the blower inlet on the back of the blower For best results

But you probably know this

 

[vroomzoomboom]

That looks like a great spot for your methanol nozzle
but I put mine in roughly the same spot and had trouble
You want the nozzle to be pointing to the blower inlet on the back of the blower For best results

But you probably know this

from what i read and seen videos of you want it before your throttle plate. if not it will suck the tank empty from vacuum. and trust me, i wanted it where i put it in the picture.