supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

[donalds]

Ours runs at like 120 -130 normal driving
when the meth kicks in it drops to 80 in 1-2 seconds
In the winter time it goes even lower

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Ours runs at like 120 -130 normal driving
when the meth kicks in it drops to 80 in 1-2 seconds
In the winter time it goes even lower

yours is post supercharger correct. as in after the rotors.
i would have thought you would have higher iat's but at the same time you are running a m90 which is smaller. when i had my explorer express kit it didnt need one. im trying to think of cars that had them from factory (gtp's, thunderbirds, bonnivilles) had intercoolers or not, but i know cobra's and shelbys have them.
@Dono whats the temps on your mustang again?

 

[donalds]

yours is post supercharger correct. as in after the rotors.

Pre supercharger it sprays directly into the rotors inlet
The Intake temperatures where upwards of 180 until we moved the nozzle behind the super charger inlet

After many miles I've taken apart the super charger and find no damage

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Pre supercharger it sprays directly into the rotors inlet
The Intake temperatures where upwards of 180 until we moved the nozzle behind the super charger inlet

After many miles I've taken apart the super charger and find no damage

looking over your thread, i couldnt find where you have your IAT sensor, and meth nozzle (i know you said pre supercharger, just couldnt find where your temp sensor was)

so after throwing evil off to the side so i could finish the last of the house reno's, and doing a motor r&r to the flipper i have here (and WOW did someone get their hands into that truck.....) i can spend a little time back on evil until the flipper goes for a safty and i see what else has to be done. was disappointed with this meth kit. i didnt really see any temp drop at all. probably because i have it too close to the throttle blade.

if you look at 4 o'clock position, thats where it is spraying. i think whats happing is that it is hitting the throttle blade and not spraying properly. its also amazing how much they spray. like, wow lol

so this is the lay out of the land.

green is where the nozzle sits now. blue is where i would like to move it, but i dont have the room for the aem nozzles i bought, however i can return them and send the seller a big ol middle finger for their crappy service. if i put one there, i still have the snow performance nozzle and holder that will just fit in there.
or still use the aem nozzle but put it where i have the egr block off plate (red). the problem with that is it will kinda go against the air travel once again not knowing if it is being mixed properly.

either way i will end up having to buy the solenoid so it wont drain my tank.

i also keep forgetting to buy some playdough so i can also measure how much clearance i have between the hood and supercharger. correct me if i am wrong but also looking over 4pointslow's thread the intercooler he has isnt all that tall and he is running the same blower with waaaaaay more boost.

 

[donalds]

The intake air sensor is directly under the blower outlet its in the lower intake plenum

The sensor itself was a problem ...not a fast enough response time....
I solved this with a sensor ofF a cobra

 

[vroomzoomboom]

The intake air sensor is directly under the blower outlet its in the lower intake plenum View attachment 465081
The sensor itself was a problem ...not a fast enough response time....
I solved this with a sensor ofF a cobra View attachment 465082

perfect, thank you once again. i ordered a snow performance solenoid, was cheaper then the aem one.

 

[Dono]

Sorry, I somehow missed the thread activity. I was wondering, so I logged in and see there's been fantastic progress. Congratulations Tim!

As for the IAT question, May 30th I did a drive around log, and it came in at about 158 degree's and below when lightly driving around in the city. I should have noted the temperature outside on this day, but didn't. I think it was quite warm.

Looking at a wot log from last year, June 27th. I show iat of 110 to 118 degrees working up to wot. Then at high load wot, I see 100 degree's. Again, not sure what the outside temperature was.

I don't think higher temps are really an issue driving around the city, but when the motors at high load you need to be concerned with high temps.

My air filter is outside of the engine bay in the wheel well area. Its away from exhaust manifolds, etc. I do think our roots style blowers make way more heat when they keep recycling the boosted air when the bypass is open. Heavier throttle when not so much air is getting recycled the temps go down. When that bypass is shut, and no heated air recycling is happening (super low vacuum/boost) I think its easier to control the temps.

My personal oppinion (It's not me bank rolling this) is that you should not rely on just water/meth. Obviously w/m will only make a difference at WOT (Or about half throttle, depending how it's set up). Some guys say they have no issues, but we know the risks and getting the spray just right to get maximum benefits.

You have done an amazing job! That engine bay looks absolutrely amazing! And, you engineered the vacuum pump and have it working perfectly. Crazy, when you think about it. I'm going to start calling you my self taught engineer buddy. Your truck is proof.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Sorry, I somehow missed the thread activity. I was wondering, so I logged in and see there's been fantastic progress. Congratulations Tim!

As for the IAT question, May 30th I did a drive around log, and it came in at about 158 degree's and below when lightly driving around in the city. I should have noted the temperature outside on this day, but didn't. I think it was quite warm.

Looking at a wot log from last year, June 27th. I show iat of 110 to 118 degrees working up to wot. Then at high load wot, I see 100 degree's. Again, not sure what the outside temperature was.

I don't think higher temps are really an issue driving around the city, but when the motors at high load you need to be concerned with high temps.

My air filter is outside of the engine bay in the wheel well area. Its away from exhaust manifolds, etc. I do think our roots style blowers make way more heat when they keep recycling the boosted air when the bypass is open. Heavier throttle when not so much air is getting recycled the temps go down. When that bypass is shut, and no heated air recycling is happening (super low vacuum/boost) I think its easier to control the temps.

My personal oppinion (It's not me bank rolling this) is that you should not rely on just water/meth. Obviously w/m will only make a difference at WOT (Or about half throttle, depending how it's set up). Some guys say they have no issues, but we know the risks and getting the spray just right to get maximum benefits.

You have done an amazing job! That engine bay looks absolutrely amazing! And, you engineered the vacuum pump and have it working perfectly. Crazy, when you think about it. I'm going to start calling you my self taught engineer buddy. Your truck is proof.

may 30th, 31C (88F)

june 27, 2024 high of 22C (71F)

i thought for some reason your intake temps were lower. i know with mine driving around i start to get nervous when the temps reach around 140F. i also wish i had my old logs from when i first put this blower on with the intercooler, as well as the m112 so i could put things into place.
i am banging my head trying to figure out how to put the filter in fresh air. i dont think a air box will do. i know ahodges got his in fresh air, but the way i did his, he has more room (he snaked it at one point in front of the front dress if i remember correctly, and still has the factory 6 rib belt, i have a 8 rib, and that believe it or not makes a major difference). i was even toying around with boxing the cowl on the hood, but that also leads to other problems (ill explain in a bit).
im also not disagreeing about only having a meth kit to handle the heat issue. i am going to get intouch with the guy that welded the intercooler core into the old mount because he dose race car stuff like that. i also remember him telling me the way i did the last one was backwards. you build around the core, not the other way around.
as for your last comment, this is coming from a guy that made both a supercharger work on a v6 at that, and made a turbo kit on a v8 AND tuned it, plus my junk?! yea, dont sell yourself short.
i am going to be home till tuesday hobbling around (had a inground toe nail removed not that anyone wanted to know that lol). the solenoid came yesterday so if i can stand having a shoe on my right foot without screaming i will try to put that in this weekend at some point possibly.
all the work i have done to this thing to get it back up and running over the last 2 months, and now i have no time to drive it lol. i still havent even cleaned it yet. this time 10-15 years back it would have went to carlisle pa for all ford nationals and back!

 

[Dono]

Im super happy with 100 degree's at wot. Not going to have any issues there. I'd still like to lower them some more, but then I'm in to a GT-500 style heat exchanger (Big surface area) and then I need to change out the bumper crash pad for a crash bar....Not seeing it happening (Maybe one day, but the energy thing you mentioned is harder as we age and I will be staring down a motor change once my TFS headed aluminum block, forged motor is complete).
I think the low iat's were when driving around town were with the turbo explorer. That thing had ambient temps when driving (Because it was rear mount turbo, the iat sensor was in the intake tube, not the lower manifold). There is, as we have proven, a certain amount of heat soak happening with the sensor being in the lower metal intake manifold (Below the blower) radiating heat when there is not much air flow idling around town. Sorry, kind of a run-on sentance there. lol.

Can you get us an iat reading at wot Tim?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Can you get us an iat reading at wot Tim?

the last time, pretty bad. or very bad. waaaay hot. like holley flashing red hot. this is why i am going to change where the meth nozzle sits.

 

[Dono]

Can you get the nozzle right after the maf? Thats max time in the air stream.

Maybe get fancy and T two of them of 1/2 the volume of one big one at both sides of the inlet tube?
There is a water/meth facebook group that I followed for a while with some really smart guys designing systems and making big power. They say not to worry about the rotors, and they will actually help mix/vaporize the w/m mixture. They say it will probably take a bit of re-tuning as the a/f ratio mix goes rich but you will get benefits of cooling and increased octaine.

 

[410Fortune]

You gotta find clean cool air for that filter
I get mine from the inner fender or below the headlights
For you with all the heat you make and all the crap under the hood I was thinking, who needs headlights? You could just get rid of the passenger headlight and use it for intake hahahahahaha I know I know it’s still a street truck, Needs to be street legal, and you drive it at night …
Excuse after excuse!

Looking good. I like these discussions way better then “I gotta pull the engine again” ones

 

[vroomzoomboom]

Needs to be street legal, and you drive it at night …
Excuse after excuse!

Looking good. I like these discussions way better then “I gotta pull the engine again” ones

its only illegal if you stop for the cops to ticket you .
and dont say pull the engine. i dont care if it sits between evils frame rails, i still consider this to be dono's motor. his truck didnt have a great track record with motors.

was going to hang the solinode for the meth kit, but my foot started to bug me. got some playdough so i could see how much clearance i have if ii do put a cooler in. i was actually surprised at this.

the result

i figured i would have a inch less then that! so i checked the snout.

looks like i will be shopping for a intercooler now! a tick performance one might be a tad overkill. once again i will have to call the guy that did the last one and see what he can think of.

 

[4pointslow]

Hell yea!!!!

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i shake my head sometimes. i bust ass to get evil back together, then dont drive it or barely lol.
was able to move the nozzle to the back of the blower case, and right infront of the rotors. still had the snow performance nozzle and holder (that lucky was at a 45 degree). it just fit, like barely fit.

also mounted the solenoid as well. hate where it is but couldnt find a better place for it

made sure everything worked, tested fine then it sat until today. was able to take it for a run, an there was no change in the way it acted or temps. now i have to figure if i am doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the meth kit. stay in it long enough and the temps hit 180, and it was 72F when i was playing around. i will however say the temps still come down quickly.
the guy that also welded the cooler into the old mount got back to me as well.
no dice.
he said as soon as he heard i had a high ram his first thought was a shearer fab cooler. when i called them, it stands 5 inches tall.
nope. he also brought up a problem i didnt think of. their cooler might distort because of the pressure of the belt pulling down on the front. was a good point
next called tick performance again to ask more questions. one thing i didnt see, and they pointed out was, the over all height of the core is 3 inches. the height of the cooler is 2.75 inches when its bolted to the intake. BUT and is very hard to see in the pictures, the core sticks up about a 1/4 from the flange at the top.
nope. im glade they pointed that out or i would have ordered it, and not been able to use it.
back to the drawing board, and more searching when i came across a company called 417 motorsports 417 Motorsports with this cooler 1500 HP Air to Water Billet Intercooler. 2 1/2 total height, same price as a tick performance, but sold out. he has cores and the parts to make them but has other orders atm, but can have one ready to go in a week. can also use all my old rads and pump with it, but no lower then 30gpm he had said. i am temped to pull the trigger but i still have this truck to flip and will need the shop to repair the evap problem.....which really sucks and dont know what that as well as anything else they might find.
then again hotroders dont exactly make a lot of smart financial decisions now do we.....

​

 

[410Fortune]

I maybe late to this party but is there a reason we don’t use a front mount intercooler?

 

[donalds]

I'm not sure how that would work

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I maybe late to this party but is there a reason we don’t use a front mount intercooler?

do you mean the rad for cooling the water? i have 2 of them that i used with the other mount

 

[410Fortune]

That is quite the cooling stack what am I looking at?
Radiator for coolant
Oil cooler? Water injection cooler? Trans cooler? What else? No room for a fmic for the supercharger?


Could you re locate a cooler or two hahahaha to the underside /
Rear w remote fans?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

so it goes

the one between the frame rails, intercooler as the one above it and on the drivers side (was some type of rad but had it plugged off so it could be used for this purpose)
trans cooler
a/c condenser
rad

i left the intercooler rads there incase i needed to reuse them. which i may have to.