The Black Hole

[Sbyrne97]

hmm well if it has tick or rod slap usually there trapped in small galleys that can't be reached, Best off pulling the valve covers and cleaning up the lifters as best as possible. Best of luck with the pan though, I have to pull my gasket soon as there is a leak around most of the seal, I'm not very excited.

Why not try some sea foam too? Pour a little in your oil when you change it, or dump some cheap oil in with the sea foam run it for 1000 and then change to synthetic. I've heard tranny oil can help too, but that was from an old mechanic who I used to work for, could of been an old wise tale.

 

[gmanpaint]

I am not a believer in any fix-in-a-can remedies. There are plenty of tales of peeps using diesel fuel, ATF, seafoam, etc...Those are all hopefuls at best. For the best results, one must get elbow deep in the problem. Break out the wrenches and just get at it. Old varnished sludge will be a pita to remove with a steel scraper, just how easy, or how long will a cleaner in a can take to work? Besides, I don't want to let a chunk of sludge dis-lodge and plug the oil pump screen and kill the engine either.

The lifters can't be reached unless the heads are removed. $400 for the new set

The rocker assembly and new push rods can be bought for around $200 with the Deltacam kit. Someday that might happen, but that is another project. The stock push rods were made defective and are weak. The tips tend to mushroom making them shorter and restricting oil flow.

The out of pocket cost for this is around $50, and a weekend of my time.

 

[Sbyrne97]

Yeah I only stand by sea foam because its worked really well in my 5.0, but everyones got there way of doing things.

And yeah if the sludge did get dislodged it would be bad, i've seen a couple trans go that way.

Plus it's always fun to tear the whole engine down and paint'er up like new, add some doohickies and whatcha-ma-call-its. I've rebuilt an engine for a taurus once that had coolant in the engine it was a pita but once it was all done it ran quiet and smooth. plus the knowledge is priceless.

Double thumbs up on the rig though she looks awesome

 

[CDW6212R]

If sludge is the real worry, than pulling a valve cover will be more helpful. You can see how bad it is there, and it's easier to do. Plus the gaskets there are surely in need to replace, so no waste of time either.

The pan wouldn't have a whole lot to remove, more than the heads and valve cover area, unless it was like a neglected engine that went many many times without oil changes. There is a picture going around now of a 5.4 truck engine like that. If you still end up thinking the pan could have that kind of buildup in it, first go through the oil plug with a coat hanger or something. Verify that there is that kind of really deep sludge in there, before pulling the pan off.

 

[gmanpaint]

Double thumbs up on the rig though she looks awesome

Thank you very much

If sludge is the real worry, than pulling a valve cover will be more helpful. You can see how bad it is there, and it's easier to do. Plus the gaskets there are surely in need to replace, so no waste of time either.

The pan wouldn't have a whole lot to remove, more than the heads and valve cover area, unless it was like a neglected engine that went many many times without oil changes. There is a picture going around now of a 5.4 truck engine like that. If you still end up thinking the pan could have that kind of buildup in it, first go through the oil plug with a coat hanger or something. Verify that there is that kind of really deep sludge in there, before pulling the pan off.

I agree with you that the valve cover gaskets could stand a change, and there is no foul in having a look see under them. I will eventually get to them. Thats not a bad idea about sweeping the pan with a coat hanger to see if how bad the sludge is.

Yeah, I seen the pics of the overheated neglected engine, ugh, no bueno.

 

[gmanpaint]

How does this sound?

After reading some more about a dirty engine cleaning, I think if I remove the sludge in the pan manually (old fashioned elbow grease), and use Amsoil power foam cleaner on the crank n guts, than button it up and run a cleaner added to the oil for a bit, with a conventional oil, than do a rinse cycle, than back to the full synthetic oil.

Hopefully that will clean the rest of the engine and remove the varnish and clean the rockers/lifters somewhat.

 

[corkey]

i wouldn't spay a cleaner up into the bottom of the engine cause some of it could get into the bearings and stay there and than it would affect the startup oiling,,
i would be like having soap and water in the bearings wiping them clean, and possibly damaging the bearings,

 

[gmanpaint]

Hmm, makes sense. Okay than, the cleaner in the oil alone will have to do. I just don't want any big chunks of sludge clogging the oil pump screen.

 

[Sbyrne97]

How would if affect oiling? the cleaners dries up. We spray brake cleaners into the bottom of the cranks when we take off the oil pans of customers cars. Gets rid of a lot of burned oil and tarnish.

 

[Glen4X4]

I've used seafoam in the crank case 20miles before an oil change and oil came out dark but idk if it really did rid of any sludge build up.

 

[gmanpaint]

Version 2.0 of the front bumper has begun

Will have pictures up when its complete.

Winch plate is going in between the frame rails as far forward as it can go. The new skid plate seems to be the most challenging thing to work out so far, but it shouldn't be too bad. I'm stoked about this project as I have a bartered out some work to a very experienced welder to do all the fabrication on this. Gonna look sweet!

 

[gmanpaint]

Found out today that the rear pinion seal is leaking again.

Less than 1k miles on the new seal. WTF?

 

[dkchrist]

Any play in the pinion or dshaft?

 

[gmanpaint]

I havent touched it yet. I was under the front working, and glanced back and seen the bottom front of the diff wet again. I was too aggravated to go under and look any farther lol

When it was replaced recently, there was a bit of play in the pinion, and when I tightened it back up it seemed to go away. I didn't grease the seal spring, as I didn't know I was supposed to at the time.

 

[gmanpaint]

Anybody have any experience with Speedi Sleeves? Was thinking that it wouldn't hurt to try one on the pinion shaft when the seal is replaced.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Speedo's?

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Anybody have any experience with Speedi Sleeves? Was thinking that it wouldn't hurt to try one on the pinion shaft when the seal is replaced.

I know the demesions are critical when measuring them. We sell them where I work. I doubt the parts store can look them up by vehicle.

 

[gmanpaint]

Hmm.
Since the pinion in it is not stock, the dimensions maybe different. How to measure the shaft in the diff without removing it is impossible. Well, it was just an idea. More of a preventative measure in case the pinion shaft had something that was tearing the seal. When I get around to removing the flange, I will inspect it closer for abnormalities.

I am still trying to find a "How to" on replacing the crush sleeve without removing the diff cover. I was told it is possible, but have never done it or seen it done.

 

[Scott B.]

I am still trying to find a "How to" on replacing the crush sleeve without removing the diff cover. I was told it is possible, but have never done it or seen it done.

You can - you're just not going to be able to set the preload super-accurately.

Some people count the pinion threads showing above the nut - I've never thought this was a very accurate scheme. What I did was to gauge the pinion preload with the carrier. In other words, after removing the axles, I rotated the pinion/carrier assembly, and guestimated what the preload was. I then tightened the pinion nut, crushing the crush sleeve, until the felt preload was the same. Not super-accurate, but it does work.

As for a sleeve, National makes sleeves - you can get the part number by cross-referencing with the seal number.

 

[gmanpaint]

So...Replacing the crush sleeve really involves digging into the diff anyways than. That's not that bad though. As long as it can be done without having to mess with the gears set up. dkchrist was trying to explain it to me one night in chat, but I wasn't understanding the method he was trying to explain. I'm old, slow, and have a crap memory most of the time..lol

I do happen to have the invoice for the master install kit used, so I can get the replacement part # off of it for the sleeve. That's something at least.