The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Looks like it did well Gregg.

It did real well this time out. The only real errors made was by the operator. LOL

Almost became a member of the Roll Over Posse at one point.

Having some fun.

 

[gmanpaint]

Went out for a lazy trail ride with the 33" KM2's on it to see what a difference the 4:56 gears & locker, made with the proper combo ratios. It walked up everything I pointed it at at idle for the most part. I was solo, so I didn't push it hard at all. Did some washed out level 2's and some creek trails only. The height difference from 33" to 35" is amazing even though it don't seem like much on paper. I did drag on spots it would clear easily with the bigger meats. So the decision to either go deeper with gears, or get a doubler was made.

A doubler is the choice for the main reason of future mods. No sense regearing the front axle, if the SAS is going to happen someday. I can stay 4.56 with the doubler for street manners, and only have to regear the front axle when the time comes.

Here's the rig taking a break in a nice field. The green in full on mode after a hard winter is a nice site to see and take in.

 

[gmanpaint]

Any practical ideas on how to keep the clutch pedal from falling off the slave push rod?
It has come off a few times and luckily none of the times was in any dangerous situations. I don't want to push my luck anymore.

Was thinking of drilling a small hole and using a push clip. If there is something that is already made for it that can be purchased and installed, that would be nice as working on the pedal assembly is a real bear for me.

 

[lynchy wa]

Great pic's mate! Is it missing a cir clip on the clutch or is that the way it was built?

 

[gmanpaint]

Great pic's mate! Is it missing a cir clip on the clutch or is that the way it was built?

I really don't know to be honest.

It sure could use a cir-clip to hold it in place, but there wasn't one on the pedal assembly when I got it for the swap. I have heard of others with the same problem, but never seen an answer to it.

 

[cybergasm]

Duct tape is the answer ! :

 

[Twiztid]

here is a little for you to read up on and D&D does have the best doubler kit out there, http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring07/BW1350_1354_doubler.htm

and you will want to use a 1354 internals to up grade the 1350 planiteries

ask a buddy about his stash of 1350's laying in the yard

 

[Foxracin]

Not all 1354's have the 6 gear planetarys. Have to look at the tag on it and has to be a 93 or newer 1354 to get the 6 gear set vs. the 4.

 

[gmanpaint]

So $500 for the D&D kit? The way they talk, it's just a simple build with the kit. Trim the plate, some tig welds,a little JB weld or RTV to seal the gap on one side, and thats it. I know there is more to it than that..lol

So really the costs using the D&D kit, and supplying 2 t-cases, getting the drive shafts shortened & lengthened, plus a shifter linkage set up, is a bit higher than $500.

I know a guy in KC that will not only machine the parts, he will build it complete for $500. $50 more for the twin sticks with mounting brackets. I drop off both cases, and pick up the completed doubler later. I have seen his work in action on 6 diff rigs this year, and all I have to say is WOW! Everyone of the people that are using his cases have only good things to say.

Decisions, decisions.

 

[gmanpaint]

Got a nasty squeak in the front drive shaft, so I removed it. After removing the rear yoke, I found out that the ball joint is toast. I have never seen/read anywhere on how to replace this part. Anyone ever replace this part before? I'm stumped on how to go about it.

 

[gmanpaint]

Nevermind

I figured it out. Its a pressed in joint. Had to pry it out and press the new part in. I used a bench vise and the collar from the old centering ball joint to press it in the center of the flange. Make sure the seal is seated properly as it will come off and allow water in, once that happens, that pretty new ball joint is toast. I used a good bearing grease on everything for insurance.There is a strong little spring that goes into the opening of the ball. That spring in turn goes into the little tube thats inside the center of the drive shaft. Getting the u-joint carrier back into place is tricky. The spring loaded flange pushes the u-joint away as you try to get it lined up. Patients is a virtue here on this step.

I used my 4wd ball joint C-clamp with the impact gun to remove install the u-joints. Works perfectly for this.

 

[lynchy wa]

Coo Coo Coolio.

 

[gmanpaint]

I found out that the 1st gens skids are smaller than the 2nd gens skids after removing them both off the 94 & 95. 2nd gens are much wider and deeper than the 1st gens.

Went to the Junk Yard and grabbed a 1st gen Tcase skid plate for $5.00.

Here is the cool part of this....

The 1st gen T-case skid plate fits roughly across the front frame rails of the 2nd gens, where as the 2nd gens skid does not, as it is at least 6" wider. So what does this mean?



It means, I was able to give my poorly protected radiator & condenser some much needed armor.

All that was needed to be done was drill new holes in the plate(stock holes are too close to the frame edges), and drill the holes in the frame rails. Bolted it up using 7/16"x5" bolts and lock nuts.

This is just phase 1 of this. I plan on adding to it in the future. I can now add some protection to the power steering lines and cooler, buy attaching material to the t-case skid and the cross member at an angle.The front of the skid will be worked on also to give it an upward angled lip. I placed it so the stock angle was in the rear on purpose. It is perfect the way it is to back out of something if it ever gets centered on it w/o catching.

 

[lynchy wa]

Cool mate, you can never have to much armour under there! Great post.

 

[gmanpaint]

Cool mate, you can never have to much armour under there! Great post.

TY!

I have been nervous about smashing the radiator ever since the HD skid has been removed. This will give me some peace of mind now.

 

[Paraphoe]

Excellent work Greg. I wanted to bolt a plate across the frame like that to mount a winch. Can you post up some pics from the top of how it's bolted?

 

[gmanpaint]

These pics are about all I have off hand Jason.

The plate was attached using 4"x4"x.1/4" angle. Cut them down to the depth of the mounting plate (7"), and bolted them to the frame with 1/2" grade 8 hardware. They are L brackets now, and the mount sits on top of them and was cut to fit the width snug like. Then the plate was bolted to the shelf sections of the angle brackets. Step bits are your friend for this task...LOL

 

[Twiztid]

Look's like a tranny or oil cooler looking for a BIG ROCK now

 

[gmanpaint]

Look's like a tranny or oil cooler looking for a BIG ROCK now

Phase 1 is done like I said earlier. Next phase is to get a skid to protect that junk

Open your eyes and read man! :

 

[Paraphoe]

Makes sense. Thanks Gregg. Is that for a winch? Looks like a slot for the fairlead on the front?