The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

Doing a little rummaging in the garage and found a new 12 volt aux power outlet I had bought years ago. I'm thinking of adding it to the rear cargo panel on the Dr side. The only constant power back there that I can use for this is the rear door lock switch (I think).

Because of the 2 removable panels on that side, I think mounting it on the top facing up will be the best place for it, and I can place it next to the door lock switch.

Does anybody think the door lock power wire is not a good power supply to use for this application? I do not want to run a separate wire to the battery.

 

[Glen4X4]

I don't think the wiring is heavy enough...I think the wiring would overheat....

 

[gmanpaint]

I don't think the wiring is heavy enough...I think the wiring would overheat....

I was afraid of that. Thanks for confirming Glen.

In my early stages of CRS these days, I forgot I can run a power line to the Aux fuse panel I installed. LOL!

 

[Glen4X4]

I do like your idea though! I've thought of running a power outlet in that spot too after seeing it on someone's thread years ago. It would make it nice for camping trips and in other situations.

 

[gmanpaint]

Camping is the reason behind it. Can plug in the air pump, and with the new rear lights on top of the rig, I was thinking of how much nicer it would be to have a power source back there.

Wish I had an outlet that also had a 5v USB port as well. I could go one step farther and wire in a 120v outlet on the passenger side. Some day maybe, if I'm bored and need a mod fix for my addiction. LOL!

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm sure that you want your power source inside, but here are pictures of where I added one to my hatch jamb. With it I plugged in my roof strobe light, and it's powered through a switch up front, with relays in the back, in the stock relay box. There is extra space inside of it.

Rebuilding a 2nd gen Explorer with a 1st gen rear clip, post 210
I made the circuit 20 or 30 amps, so it can also run my tire compressor. See if you have a light blue and white striped wire along your right inner quarter panel, or at the right kick panel. The seat heater circuit in the later trucks is there and is fused in the left door jamb etc. It might only be in the 99+ models though, I used it for a power source for a rear amp and never used it.



I might have a solution to your USB source too. I have a Craftsman Nextec 12v power source device that I will be cutting up soon. I bought it thinking it could run a power seat in a junkyard, but is has overload protection for about 2 amps. So instead of that, or taking it back, I will cut it in half basically, and use the battery receptacle side to install into a home dusting wand thing I have(it vacuums the dust from the had wand, but the built in batteries died years ago). I can build it into the duster, so my regular Nextec batteries will power it, and those are easy to charge or replace.

Anyway, this contraption has one 12v cigarette lighter receptacle, and at least one USB port. I don't plan to need it after I cut it from the rest.

 

[gmanpaint]

Thats pretty neat Don.
I do not want a switch for it tho, so the relay is out. I think I can get away with a good ga wire to the fuse block. It has 100 amp protection with individual fuse slots that I can choose the amp rating for the application use. Do you have a picture of it? If I can't find something that I can easily mount/hard wire, yours is something to think about, and much appreciate the offer.

I would want it inside the cargo area like you said. I am just now searching online for something I can wire directly / mount, that has both 12v outlet, & 5v USB ports. So far I found this little gem and it's fairly cheap. Question is can I figure a way to mount it to where just the face is protruding?

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Unive...d=1413130800&sr=1-84&keywords=12v++aux+outlet

 

[albi1cnobi1]

You could also use one of these.http://www.powerwerx.com/oem-connec...MmbLWmsGP7dHWa1XzNbA1v-clis2J-JpCQhoCR8Hw_wcB I mounted it right next to my power outlet, facing up next to the door lock switch. My aux power fuse block is also in the jack/cargo area which made it very convenient to wire.

Edit: This power outlet is similar to mine, I mounted it flush, minus the bracket. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...er-socket/_/N-25ne?itemIdentifier=263161_0_0_

 

[gmanpaint]

That socket is very similar to the one I have, it's a Bell with a weather cover. Made for exterior mounting.

That dual usb is nice, and would work just fine as well. I bookmarked it in case I can't find a good product that has both. Thanks!

 

[albi1cnobi1]

NP Happy to help!

 

[CDW6212R]

The small USB outlet thing I have has two USB ports, I found a picture of it here;http://toolguyd.com/craftsman-12v-usb-charger/

This would be handy for a couple of USB sources, but likely not high amp use for the 12v receptacle. Meaning I haven't gutted it, cut it up yet, to see the power feed wires. With a 2amp protection circuit in it, I'd say the main feed wire is not big, and affixing a 10ga wire to it might not be ideal. I'm off this week so maybe I can get to dismantling it soon.

 

[gmanpaint]

Mickey Mouse Mod #5

So I decided to be cheap, and just use what I had on hand. I used the Bell weatherproof 12v outlet and flush mounted it to the D pillar trim. I used 16 awg to the Aux fuse panel for it and a 20 amp fuse. Not pretty, but does the job I wanted effectively. I found a doo dad in the misc parts bin I had for the cell phone, before I built a power console in the other rig. It has 2 USB ports, and one 12v outlet. It will hold a cell and charge it. Nothing like recycling old stuff!

The doo dad I mentioned.

Still have 3 open slots on the fuse panel

Now that I have a ran power to the back, I have a couple more ideas going thru my head for future mods using things I already own. Haha!

The next project. Modifying this pumps air outlet to use 1/4" couplings, and making a quick release mounting bracket, for the rear cargo panel.

 

[gmanpaint]

Mickey Mouse Mod #6

On board air. Removable mount. 25 ft soft air line mount.

Completed this little project in the afternoon, and had a blast doing this free (for me) mod.

Using components and hardware in the garage, I threw this together. I dig it for what it is.

First off, I wanted a good place out of the way to store the portable air pump. It came with a hard coil line, and a very odd size fitting connector that was backwards of normal connectors. so I had to cut the stock airline coming out of the pump and install a hose barb and clamp, then a female connector. I tried to find a brass fitting adapter to directly install a female connector directly to the pump, but no dice. So this had to do for now.

After finding where I wanted the pump to be mounted, I set out to make the base to mount the pump to. I used some thick cutting board material I had for under the rock sliders. Cut a piece to size, and made a template for the holes. I countersunk every bolt into the board so it has a flat bottom. This way it will sit flush when mounted.

Getting started with the first set of holes.

All holes made, and test fitting the hardware.

Pump mounted to the base, and test fit the stud mounts.

So next thing was to drill the holes in the cargo panel, and install the mounting studs. The studs are fixed in place, with fender washers underneath and on top, then a nut to clamp it all tight to the panel. Then the pump and base simply drops onto the studs, and sits flush with the nuts inside the base. Wing nuts hold it in place, and can be removed to take the entire pump out of the rig if needed.

So the 25 ft of soft air line needed a home as well. Using the mounting clamps I had on the basket for the small shovel, I bolted them down to the panel next to the pump.

So after all that was done, the line was coiled up and clamped down. It's not going anywhere.

Not sure if any of you noticed that the fire extinguisher was missing. I moved it to the other side of the rig.

So that's it. Job done. I have a bag of air line attachments for blowing up balls and air mattresses, and what have not. The only thing this pump is for is to fill items with air, mostly the tires after wheeling, and air mattresses when camping.

Next project........

Finding a better home for these limb riser mounts and cables.

Oh..... And clean the dang carpet!!!

 

[gmanpaint]

Want to give a shout out to Turdle for sending me the replacement injector connector.

Thanks Jon!!

Got it replaced today, and it is snug as a bug in a rug again.


Wire colors, and the silicone grommet was different colors, but the housing was exactly the same. Worked perfectly.

What Jon sent me:

 

[gmanpaint]

Got around to figuring out a better way to store the limb riser posts the other day.

Simply used some 2 sided velcro straps and added a button to hold them to the back corners on the cargo panels. They're out of the way, and easy to take off/store.

The cable itself is stored inside the compartment, where the stock jack is located.

 

[gmanpaint]

BLACK HOLE FRIDAY

After a day of hitting the trails, we worked up a hunger. The golden arches was like the Bat signal for us.

 

[MidnightRebel07]

Nice to see you getting out and enjoying the rig again but where's the action pictures from the trails? LOL. I'm stuck injured and not able to work on my rig until atleast spring so I live vicariously through you guys.

 

[gmanpaint]

Nice to see you getting out and enjoying the rig again but where's the action pictures from the trails? LOL. I'm stuck injured and not able to work on my rig until atleast spring so I live vicariously through you guys.

This was on a one day outing with me and my Gal a while back. We didn't take any pics of the rig as we were to busy staying warm inside the rig! LOL!

 

[gmanpaint]

Rig has pretty much been a Big Driveway Ornament lately. Haven't done much to it in a while, but the weather was nice on a weekend in January, so I decided to clean up the clutter at the battery a little.

I have 7 leads going to the Positive and 4 leads to the Negative, and it was just a FUBAR situation. Always putting it off until now.

I spent some time surfing Amazon to see what they had to offer in helping me decide what I wanted to do. But as usual, I can't ever make up my mind unless I have the part in my hand, and I'm looking at it. So I chose a few different parts to try out for now.

I chose 2 different Distribution blocks that are close in design, but differ slightly.

The Negative block is solid, and hefty. With dual clamping Allen head screws into the thick block. It is made for a Negative post only. It has 4 mounting locations with 5/16" bolts that has Allen heads. They bite hard, and you don't feel like your going to strip them when tightening.

I also wanted to try a couple different ring connector ends. They both worked fine, but the one used for the Main chassis won out hands down. Pure beef, with locking body to block. The other was used on the body ground, and I don't care for the small phillips head set screws at all. It is a dual 4/8 gauge or combo connector.

On this block: Main Chassis / Winch / Body / Relay grounds. This block and the terminal on the right is a winner. I highly recommend KnuKoncept parts. I cant say that about the other stuff I got. :thumbdwn:

For the crazy Positive block, I tried another brand block that had 4 lead in's also. It worked just fine, but I am going to replace it with the same brand as the Negative block. This block uses dual bolt heads. Phillips to snug em up with fast, and 1/2" wrench to get em tight. I also used a dual ring connector for the main chassis and Alt leads, the rest are crimped ring terminals right to the dist block. This will be redone when the new block arrives, and a couple more of the nice KnuKoncept brand terminal ends arrive. But for now....

On this block: 4g Starter / 4g Winch / 4g secondary fuse panel / 8g Alt / 8g Amps / 2x 16g Acc.

I have a slight power drain which I believe is from the winch. Since it killed the Red Top dead, then the replacement battery, I decided to add a throw bar kill switch to the Positive post until I can remedy the drain. Works like a charm, and I disconnect power when it sit's.

I have broken a couple different style battery straps wheeling, and someday I want to add a nice battery box, but for now, a simple small ratchet strap works. I have a backup strap going around the tray and battery as well.

I will update this post later when I get the new stuff installed.

 

[CDW6212R]

I love to see that kind of work, and again those are great pictures. I hate the bolt on kind of main battery connectors, hopefully those Knuk.... brand will be very good. I have an amp kit of theirs yet to install.

If you haven't already finished all of your ground wires front to back chassis to frame, you might add one to the frame just behind the left wheel. My 99 had the ground cable end cut off, and I didn't want to use the bolt on terminals to fix it. So I noticed a hole in the top of the frame there which would take a nice OEM self tapping bolt about 10mm in size, which I had. I soldered on a ring terminal, and that old cable became a ground from the frame there, up to the radiator support connection for the battery. That let me run a shorter ground in back for my compressor, which is on the frame.



BTW, does anyone know how long the new lithium ion ATV/motorcycle batteries might last? There are versions for $100 that are about 6"x3.5"x3.7" high (20-25%) the size of a normal group 65, with 290 CCA. If I knew those would last at least 6-10 years, I'd consider buying three of them and see how they do.