The Black Hole | Page 102 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!
Post number 3327 has been selected as best answered.

60 mph in 5th, hums along, around 1900 rpms. This rig has always had decent mpg, if operated conservatively. Since the manual trans swap, I don't use cruise control either.

The only reason for doing 60 mph was the caravan I was with. We had a couple big motor homes pulling long trailers with massive rigs on them. Took longer then normal, but made the travel more fun. We all stopped at a nice rest area, and the ladies in the motor homes had cooked big meals for all to chow down on. Then there is the security of knowing your going to make it home, if something did happen along the way. Losing an hour or two, is a fair trade off to me.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





That's great, and thanks for the data. I think my last Explorer trips were almost 15 years ago, 1100 miles to SD. My 91 with 3.27's never got 20mpg, and the 93 had 3.73's. I got 20-21mpg with that both ways at above the speed limits(65-70). So the 3.73's and 29" tires work great for normal trucks. We were loaded down coming back, an aunt came with her luggage, which filled the back. LOL, that was on the "bad" Firestone's. The recall was announced while were on the trip in SD. They did fine and I used them up over the next two years, before turning them in.
 






I would bet I had 1000 lbs loaded in the rig. This was the reason for the latest set of leaf packs.They worked perfectly, and only dropped 1/2" loaded up. The other set was built too soft for all that road trip gear. It dropped a good 3" all loaded, and the steering was loose from it.

I need to weigh it fully loaded, just to see what it actually comes out too, with all these heavy mods, and all that gear.
 






Excellent, that's what we're shooting for, meeting the goal of a project etc. Enjoy that truck and take good care of it, for all the work you've put into it.
 






So way back in 2010, I did the Manual trans swap. I got most of the parts from another member here. He said there was only 3k miles on the clutch parts, as he installed them himself on a rig he had, but ended up doing a 302 swap, and offered it to me at a fair price. It never shifted right, and 1st / reverse was always a fight to get in. If anybody read the manual swap, you know the lengths I went thru with the slave bleeding.

Well, 8k miles or so later, and I am ready to yank it and re-do it all and try to make it right. Reverse is almost unbearable to deal with, and I can't take it anymore. I started to think it might be an internal issue with the trans itself, the way it was acting. So I took it in to a local AAmco for a free diagnose for the heck of it, and to see which was giving me grief, before I spent a single $1 on parts.

So check this out... As the tech was on his test drive with the rig, I read a little sign way way up high on the waiting area wall. It said,...

"For a manual transmission inspection, we will remove the transmission and inspect the clutch for a proper diagnose. If you choose not to have it repaired here, we will re-install the transmission for a price disclosed prior to the removal."

So the tech comes back in and says,... "I believe it is the clutch, and feels as if it is not disengaging properly, and I need to put it on the rack for a closer look." Then starts to pull it in the bay. I tell him to hold up a minute before he does that, and walk back in to talk to the counter guy. I tell him I read the hard to see disclaimer, and ask how much are they wanting to put my rig back together AFTER they tear it all down. He looks at me a bit surprised, and wide eyed. He says it is 5.5 shop hours for labor, and 1/2 hr inspect time. I ask how much a shop hour, he says $110. OK, so that is over $600 to have a look see. I tell him thanks for the help, and ask for the keys back. Unreal!

So I am going to tear it down, and just replace all of it. I looked at a Centerforce clutch kit, but it was $400 and change. I decided that as little as this thing is used, and I'm not a hot rod with it, a stock Sachs setup should be fine. It's less than $200 for that kit. Everything I sourced so far is Sachs, except for the slave cylinder & throw out bearing. I think I will go with a Luk brand for the cylinder, and a Centerforce for the throw out. I didn't see the Sachs for either of those on Amazon, but will do a little more digging elsewhere before I buy.

There are still big plans for this rig this year, and I have to get issues like this resolved beforehand. Hopefully I can handle this in a decent amount of time, and by myself. My health isn't the best right now, and I'm dealing with a new to me issue, that is sucking the life force right out. :(
 






So this happened today....
Atlas 4.3.jpg
 






Very nice!
Please detail install, I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in how this goes together.
 






Very nice!
Please detail install, I'm sure I'm not the only one interested in how this goes together.

Of course I will. Just like most boring posts in this thread, I have the intent to help someone down the line, and learn as I learn, on most things attempted here. lol
 






Nice! Mine has been working hard for 17 years with no issue:chug:
 






Can you post some pics of the shifter setup? I think it has changed since I got mine.
 






Can you post some pics of the shifter setup? I think it has changed since I got mine.

Sure can..... Once it arrives. :laugh:

AA has the Ranger / Explorer case set up as a kit, with the twin stick shifter made for direct fitment. Supposedly, whomever packaged mine in shipping, didn't realize it was the kit, and didn't pack the shifter kit, the Dana 300 speedo assembly, or the site tube. They sent it out today with expedited shipping. But I did get a nice manual and some oh so shiny stickers. Oooooooohh, shiny.....o_O

It is going to be some time before I get this installed, as I am about to drop the trans, and install a new clutch. I have a full console to figure out still, and have to get custom drivelines made still. Oh... and then I have to get a custom speedo convertor made from Nevada Speedo, but can't until this is installed. Have to measure the length of cable needed for it, once I know.

Like normal, do one thing, have to do ten others. Par for the course. :crazy:
 






That's a big, heavy and shiny new addition, more fun.

You say full console, do you mean the 95-01 big console? If that's it most of the install is the wiring I think, the dash wiring has a special connector in the full console versions. Also there is a unique rear mount that attaches to the floor. I think I have a spare someplace, but you can get one easily from any 95-01 with that console. The console pushes forward into the bracket, and pulls out from it to remove.

console bracket1.JPG


console bracket004.JPG
 






Thanks Don, but I have the full console installed now.Appreciate the help!

I have to modify the drivers side of it, for the t-case shifter's to pass threw. This will be one of those learning things mentioned earlier. :D

I have already removed the rear air duct for the manual trans shifter. If worse comes to worse, and it doesn't work, I can try to find a short console, and swap all the added electronic items over to it. (James Bond ashtray Mod, & tissue box fuse panel)
 






Cool, and I forgot about that tissue dispenser. None of my three trucks have a console in them at the moment, I've forgotten how much space they had in them.
 






Here ya go @Rick

Got the shifter linkage mocked up, and lengths adjusted today. Have to remove it, and re-install with some blue thread locker on some of the threads.
Going to be fun installing it all back together "After" the case is installed.

A2 linkage profile mock up.jpg
A2 linkage tower.jpg


Clutch parts wont all be here until mid week, so next weekend for that job. After that, then this case goes in. This job is more suited for a lift, not laying on your back, reaching up and twisting your body over the trans. An extra set of hands setting it on the trans, would also be nice. lol

Looks like 2-3 weeks for the custom drivelines to be made. Thinking of having one of two rebuilt rear shafts made longer for an emergency spare. Can have it made for $100, which is way cheaper than having a second HD 1350 made.

Can't wait to try 2wd low. That is going to make tight turning so much easier then 4wd low. Also being in 2wd low for most of the trails, and pop it in 4wd for an obstacle only is going to be sweet. :bounce:
 






Definitely jealous of the Atlas. With a live front axle and now the ability to use 2wd low it should make trails a whole easier and fun at the same time.

On the whole hard to shift 1st/R, do you have any noise while the trans is in neutral? I have seen a bad pilot bearing cause those same symptoms. Even though the clutch is pushed in, the bearing will "grab" the input shaft causing it to spin and be hard to put in gear 1st or R.

Wouldn't a first gen ttb driveshaft be close to bolting in? I just used one in a 1354 manual swap in a 00 4dr v6 and I had to shorten the slipyoke boot just slightly for it to compress enough to get it in.
 












@boominXplorer , I don't hear any noises at all. I do however agree with what your saying. When I installed this clutch, everything had a few K miles on it. To take the guess work out of the equation, I am replacing everything that fits inside the Bell housing. If the master proves to be an issue, at least I don't have to pull the trans again, but I think it is fine. (crosses fingers)

The front shaft I have is a dble C. I have a rebuilt spare one of those too. lol
Be great if I could keep the fronts, but I am still on the fence how well they will hold up. In my head, they will do just fine, as short as they are, it is really going to take some doing to twist one of them, before a U-joint gives. I run the Spicer X solid cold forged cross grease-less, and they are pretty tough for what they are. If I break those, the costs for stronger goes thru the roof. (CTM's)

@Centaurus5.0 I imagine, you could hurt your neck fairly easy. :D
 






i somehow missed this little update. so thats what you where keeping top secret when you were putting the stereo in. vary nice. i knew a few people that will be very jealous of that shiny thingy!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I run a 1st gen shaft in my v8 ranger. I haven't had an issue with the strength and I really like the skinny pedal. Mind you my truck is a mildly built v8 with a Torson in the front/4.88 gears. All I have is 2.7:1 low range in my case so I don't necessarily have the 4:1 to tear things up but I bet you will be just fine.

I recommend LUK clutch components (Slave, Master) to put in there when you replace everything. Centerforce clutches are good but pricey.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top