Trying to get it right-

[410Fortune]

Hey JT when my buddy Joe put an HO 5.0L into his 93 explorer he was having all sorts of ac/EGR and throttle cable issues

So he flipped his intake to point at the drivers side.

Have you considered this? I know I know I am a bit late

 

[Turdle]

Rocket--
I thought I did email you-and also thought you were busy and ignoring me--

OK-tell me what to do-the throttle bracket you made looks good-but-is there any way possible to keep the cruise control? If not-tell me now so I can get used to the idea-

 

[rocket 5979]

Rocket--
I thought I did email you-and also thought you were busy and ignoring me--

OK-tell me what to do-the throttle bracket you made looks good-but-is there any way possible to keep the cruise control? If not-tell me now so I can get used to the idea-

There is a way to keep the cruise control. You will have to modify the cruise control plastic piece that attaches to the throttle cable ball socket. Instead of being side mounted like the way the stocker are, you will have to top mount the CC cable to the TB cable. Then it will clear everything and have a good straight pull. You will not be able to side mount it like before because the CC attachment piece will contact your A/C equipment on the passenger side of the engine bay.

It is doable, but it will take a little extra work. Jim never used his CC so I just eliminated it to keep things simpler.

 

[Turdle]

There is a way to keep the cruise control. You will have to modify the cruise control plastic piece that attaches to the throttle cable ball socket. Instead of being side mounted like the way the stocker are, you will have to top mount the CC cable to the TB cable. Then it will clear everything and have a good straight pull. You will not be able to side mount it like before because the CC attachment piece will contact your A/C equipment on the passenger side of the engine bay.

It is doable, but it will take a little extra work. Jim never used his CC so I just eliminated it to keep things simpler.

Ok-let's discuss this a minute--
I have the ball pointing inwards-and if it could be moved out a bit-the cruise cable would fit to the inside (toward Throttle body) of the throttle cable--
I wish you could be here so I could show you how close this really is--
going to a top pull would let it clear the idle screw-which is the only hangup to it not fitting in there now--

 

[rocket 5979]

Ok-let's discuss this a minute--
I have the ball pointing inwards-and if it could be moved out a bit-the cruise cable would fit to the inside (toward Throttle body) of the throttle cable--
I wish you could be here so I could show you how close this really is--
going to a top pull would let it clear the idle screw-which is the only hangup to it not fitting in there now--

I know what tolerances you are dealing with Jon, I am working on almost the exact same setup. Clearance differences will be minimal between these two vehicles. If I were you I would totally revamp your approach to this. You will still be dealing with the same amount of room while going with a top pull or bottom pull system. However, the bottom pull will be more concealed and allow your engine bay to appear less cluttered and not require you to totally re-weld your ball stud in a different location. I would also modify the ball stud on your TB arm to face the other way, towards the passenger side. The way you have it now will make for a more difficult setup of not only your throttle cable, but especially your CC cable. With the angle of pull that is needed you would likely run into the cable bodies themselves contacting your TB shaft and not allowing the blade to fully close if you kept your current setup. Your throttle cable point of contact is much too far away from the point of rotation. Once you move your point of contact (POC) closer to the point of rotation (POR), giving you full swing of your throttle blade, then you will run into those TB shaft contact I issues I mentioned in the previous sentences. It is also worth mentioning that it will really be in the way of your throttle blade adjustment screw assembly too.

Your best bet by far is to do a 50 degree down angled pull bracket, switch your ball stud around and mount it closer to the POR (1.025" between POR and POC to be exact), Then if you want CC then top mount that assembly parallel to your throttle cable assembly to clear everything. There is more than one way to skin a cat, but I believe this to be the best overall approach to properly address all issues. A bonus is that it will look more attractive, by being less cluttered too.

 

[Turdle]

I know what tolerances you are dealing with Jon, I am working on almost the exact same setup. Clearance differences will be minimal between these two vehicles. If I were you I would totally revamp your approach to this. You will still be dealing with the same amount of room while going with a top pull or bottom pull system. However, the bottom pull will be more concealed and allow your engine bay to appear less cluttered and not require you to totally re-weld your ball stud in a different location. I would also modify the ball stud on your TB arm to face the other way, towards the passenger side. The way you have it now will make for a more difficult setup of not only your throttle cable, but especially your CC cable. With the angle of pull that is needed you would likely run into the cable bodies themselves contacting your TB shaft and not allowing the blade to fully close if you kept your current setup. Your throttle cable point of contact is much too far away from the point of rotation. Once you move your point of contact (POC) closer to the point of rotation (POR), giving you full swing of your throttle blade, then you will run into those TB shaft contact I issues I mentioned in the previous sentences. It is also worth mentioning that it will really be in the way of your throttle blade adjustment screw assembly too.

Your best bet by far is to do a 50 degree down angled pull bracket, switch your ball stud around and mount it closer to the POR (1.025" between POR and POC to be exact), Then if you want CC then top mount that assembly parallel to your throttle cable assembly to clear everything. There is more than one way to skin a cat, but I believe this to be the best overall approach to properly address all issues. A bonus is that it will look more attractive, by being less cluttered too.

Could I just send it to you? I have more confidence in you than me right now--

I have my rails and injectors pulled out-oh goodness what a mess of wires and stuff huh? I almost forgot how bad it was in here--joy of my life--

Anyway-I'm ready to pull the lower intake-got a couple of questions-

My lower intake has 2 "coolant crossover" tubes-
As we all know-the v-8 explorer has a metal coolant passage tube going to the heater core-
Off this tube are 2 smaller coolant lines-which go to the stock uppper intake manifold, but the Typhoon upper has no coolant lines)
Now-What I had done instead-was use these smaller passages in the stock metal tube-and ran a coolant line to the coolant crossover tubes on the Typhoon lower intake. Is this good, or should I cap off the stock coolant tube lines, and then run the crover tubes into each other?

second question-

What size are the fuel fittings on the fuel lnes in the wheel well area?

Oh-BTW
the above mentioned stock heater bypass tube screws into the lower intake-
Mine was braised-it's holding but I did find a real cheap one on ebay-so I thought what the heck I'll just switch that out--
I attempted to remove this crossover tube-unfortunately it is in there tight, and yes I used thread sealer-
I'm afraid I might crack my manifold trying to get it out-sooooo
the lower intake is not going to get powdercoated-it will be cleaned -painted and hidden well--lol

 

[Turdle]

^^^^still need an answer to the coolant question^^^^
I have the lower off-rockers off-lifters all look good!

Here is a picture of my one piece billet lifter gudes--

I have the head surfaces cleaned-and a couple more questions

Should I retorque my head studs (nuts) ? If so, how tight? I believe (???)they were done 85 upper 80 lower by the builder--Aluminum heads

Also-if it were you-would you have the lfiter oil feed holes facing the center of the block-or the ouside wall of the block? does it matter?

 

[CougarX]

As for the coolant lines that ran through the intake.

I'm still using the stock intake, but I didn't hook the coolant lines back up to the upper intake. I have had them run into each other with a short length of hose. I think the coolant lines into the intake are designed to keep intake temps cool with EGR gases going through them and whatnot. I've never seen the inside of the upper intake but I suspect that the coolant lines are left over from when the EGR was internal (97 and before) and Exhaust gases ran through the intake both ways. Being as I have both a phenolic spacer as well as deleted EGR I didn't feel these coolant lines were necessary.

 

[Turdle]

The crossover tubes at the rear of this lower intake are actaully for cross flow-so the heads cool efficiently-
I was using the heater bypass os the connection point-

I have head temperature gauges and they both ran at the same temp so I assume the way I had it was effective-I just wasn't sure--


Oh--I do have another item I'd like clarity on--
If I have an external egr tube on my header-with an egr valve regulating exhaust gasse to the egr elbow-then WTF is up with these egr passages on the heads, right in the center of the intake deck? These aluminum Edelbrock efi egr heads--should those passages be blocked off?

What size are the fuel fittings on the fuel lnes in the wheel well area?

 

[rocket 5979]

Could I just send it to you? I have more confidence in you than me right now--

I think that would be best. Just go ahead and send it to me this coming week sometime. By the time it gets to my place I will be back from my business trip in Maine and will be able to take care of it.

 

[Turdle]

OK
INTERNAL egr engines have an internal egr passage, which is ported to the egr plate. In the plate is a solenoid which allows egr flow-

EXTERNAL egr engines (like mine) have an egr passage though the exhaust manifold which is ducted through a tube to the egr valve-which is controlled by the egr vacuum regulator-

This tells me the internal egr passages on the heads should be blocked off--as should the center small passage in my intake manifold. Correct?

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm not very familiar with what Ford has changed for the 96-01 EGR and water passages. Generally though the coolant and EGR passages in the intake manifold are just fine to leave as there are, open to the heads etc. Those tiny coolant lines were for maintaining the throttle body or EGR plate at coolant temperature, faster warm up etc. They are not important at all, plug them or connect them to each other.

I'm not sure what kind of EGR passages you could have in the intake ports, those are/were in the exhaust ports in the past. Sure plug them off, we only have to deal with EGR now, no more air pump and lines etc.

The tank fuel line connectors are just like the front connections, but there are two sizes back there. Those same adapters for the fuel rails might work for them, call Aeromotive.

 

[Turdle]

I think that would be best. Just go ahead and send it to me this coming week sometime. By the time it gets to my place I will be back from my business trip in Maine and will be able to take care of it.

Ok
I'm going to get this thing together-


If my wifes car breaks-Uh oh we are fubared. Is there any way you can just duplicate the other one? The reason I ask-is this thing does run like this.

I'm in a dilemma here.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have spares, what do you want to drive?

 

[rocket 5979]

If my wifes car breaks-Uh oh we are fubared.

Well Jon stop doing neutral drops in the wife's car and you won't have those problems.

Is there any way you can just duplicate the other one? The reason I ask-is this thing does run like this.

I can duplicate the one I made for Jim. That was more or less my plan.

 

[SVO]

*Subscribed*










Jeff - :navajo:

 

[Turdle]

I spent the morning at a pick and pull-went there to help a guy get a 9" rear end-so I lookd for fuel lines--
spent about 1 hour looking -
Then we had to pull a old dodge hub for some reason. I don't know what is up with that--

I'm heading to the car wash to blast this stuff clean-Then when it cools off a bit I'll re install the rocker arms-and new valve covers-
I'd like to start blasting my intake this evening so I can finish it up in the morning-all while it is a bit cooler-

 

[Turdle]

Well the water neck, intake -upper lower and elbow- are all blasted clean and dull--
I'm gonna give them all a good baking to see what comes out-then another blasting-

I sprung for some aluminum oxide. Man does it cut fast!

Man--I have asked some good questions in this thread--so far I've gotten good answers to some -but for others I need to know pretty quickly.

I know you guys know this--

the oil feed hole on the side of the lifters--
should it face the center of the block-or the outer wall?
I have them all facing center now---

Now another question-

Can the Throttle body shaft bearings be tamped out? I don't want to go trying to and mess them up if they are not removable---

I need to blast and bake the throttle body---

 

[CDW6212R]

The lifter bores should have a groove down inside of them, to feed oil all the way around the lifter. If the oil feed galley intersects the lifter bores closer to the center or outside, face those lifter holes in that direction. I don't know about the throttle body shaft.

 

[Turdle]

Well Putting it back together is a whole different story-especially when it comes to setting lifter preload-I have 4 rockers in. woooo I'm 1/4 finished--