Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
HA! me not get dirty. like im going to just help you put the motor in and walk away. you funny guy! you and i both know we are going to bust ass to see if we can turn the key by the end of tomorrow.
Motors in, front diff is in. Motor sounds great.
The radiator seems to have been a casualty though. The drivers side end tank is leaking.
The motor fraught going back in yesterday. It did finally seat to the trans though.
Tim was kind enough to come back today which was a surprise. I'd have thought he'd rather be anywhere than here doing the same thing over and over. On second thought, I know he's have rather been pretty much anywhere else.
I'll hunt down a rad tomorrow, and then you know I'll be babying the truck.
With all the cooling system problems I have had on both my trucks, I was wondering if there was an all aluminum radiator that would work for our Explorers. it would be nice to have welded side tanks that could hold up to more than the plastic does.
I'm sorry to read that you had more trouble, but good that it's back together again.
My 347 still on a stand was built very similar to yours. It's a 9.65:1 347 by Woody, custom cam, designed for a mild turbo boost. So my cam ought to be very similar to yours. I hope you find that the CPS code was causing the detonation issues.
For the IC pump, you might use both the TPS signal, and the IC coolant temperature. I'd want the pump to run any time the temps got much above say the 100-120 range. The PWM controllers could work well for that I think.
Maybe it is just a defective head gasket?
Also glad you have a back up plan, if you wait to put it back together next year you will have more patience, money, time, and sunlight.
Holy cow man. I feel terrible for you ( & Tim) after all that effort.
Pretty sure I would send the complete engine to a shop that can run it on a stand hooked up to a dyno. When they hammer out the issues, and get it tuned, then put it back in the rig. Let them have it for the winter, drop it back in come spring.
I really think I need to break down and go with some AFR 185's.
the 3/4" deck thickness will really help.
That and, always fighting the detonation, maybe the AFR's will be more detonation resistant.
Tim's 302 was trouble free for him, and is pretty much all together. I won't have to replace head gaskets, water pump gaskets, ar anything like that. The only concern is a egr tube that fits factory intake.
I'd prefer to keep the trickflow intake with the 347 so as it goes back together (hopefully with aluminium heads) I can check fitment issues along the way.
Lets see what my new 247 v2 ends up like over the winter.
I do like the idea of having the motor run on a stand before installing it, I'm just not sure who I trust (Not that I have been having any success on my own, anyway)
Compare pricing for TFS heads over AFR. Given the same sizing and cfm rates, the TW and high ports always beat AFR's. Pricing used to be virtually identical, it was in the $1400 range when I got my Canfields(a high port version). What I saw recently was $1999 for the hottest popular TFS head lately. That's nuts for a Windsor head, so I hope that was a miss print or a bad seller over pricing them. I think about $1500 is a reasonable limit to pay for a complete set of W heads, and over that an aftermarket Cleveland head is worth the trouble.
Go slow, take your time. See if you can find a used set of TFS heads that flow in the 270cfm or more. You need that level or better.
nope. trick flow specialties. and i had to grind a spot on the drivers side of the head where the two pipes join the headers because they forced the header out on a angle
The "P" heads are the most odd header type, those have the exact same stock port and bolt pattern, but the plugs are angled differently.
Everything else but some higher end heads with raised ports should also have the same "normal" port/pattern. So the P headers are the odd type, and some here have mentioned TM headers and others usable on both stock version heads.
The TFS high ports all will have raised ports, as well as the two copies of them, the Canfields and Ford Z304's.
So the typical TFS TW or AFR head that are popular should take the normal GT40 headers. The P headers are a test each case deal.
