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Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

As I've been scratching my head on what to do about the pcv system, I found a fantastic write up.
http://mustangpartstech.com/Engine/BreathersandPCVDelete.html

I need to do this since my whole inlet side is pressurized. My only other solution would be to find another constant vacuum I could tie in to. This would mean one of 3 options..
1. Vacuum pump (No, I don't need any more pumps running, thank you)
2. Cut a hole in the exhaust and angle a piece of steel line to create vacuum and route it up to the engine bay. Could work, but I'd be pulling oil vapours thru my turbo....I don't really want to do that. Apparently slight vacuum in the crank case helps rings seal, but this is a complicated system as to much vacuum would not be good either. It would be a sealed system and a manual valve would be needed to be able to adjust crank case vacuum.
3. Do pcv delete with a catch can. This is my winner. Take the ball and spring out of my existing egr (dremmel the very bottom off the egr valve), run a hose from the egr to a T, then run another hose from the oil fill tube to the other side of the T. Then straight in to a vented catch can.
 



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vacuum issues

Until your post I didn't think about the impact of a remote turbo on vacuum availability. If you don't install a vacuum pump how will you activate your heating/ventilation controls and your power brake booster? Is your throttle body located downstream of the turbo blower outlet? It seems to me if the throttle body is located upstream of the turbo blower inlet then there will be vacuum between the two which could be tapped into.
 






Yes, there will still be vacuum when not under boost. So there really isn't an issue for brakes,etc.

There is an issue with boosting the bottom end of my motor though. If I just pull the intake line off that currently goes to my oil fill tube and put a vent there, the pcv valve will be pulling unmetered air when not under boost. This will cause an issue tuning.

So, its all or nothing. I cant figure out any other way to make this work other than remove the pcv system and use a catch can.

With my m90 this was a non issue, but a rear mount turbo seems to create an issue. I hear what your thinking StreetRod, but its a non issue in your setup. I had the same thoughts (worries) as you are thinking, but no issues. I just don't want to boost my bottom end and start taking seals out/spewing oil everywhere.
 






Just T it off the oil sending unit run a line to a rear mounted STS oil pump, and then return line connect into the oil fill neck. Have the pump run for 3-5 minutes after you shut off the truck to prevent oil coking in the turbo.

index1.jpg

Ok, Ive been busy running lines.
Oil return pump is mounted, oil return is ran
Intercooler is mounted under the frame.

I went to install the oil feed line tonight, (after being pre-occupied with house stuff), and......holy smokes. Willzilla wasn't kidding. I can barely see the sending unit. How am I going to do this??

Too late in the night to start this. Maybe I'll take a trip to the plumbing shop tomorrow and see if I can find an extension.

oil sending T.jpg
 






unbolt the ac and power steering bracket. its just 3 bolts. then you should be alble see get to it better
 






Thanks Tim!
This might save me a ton of cursing.
 






Okay,3 bolts and the power steering/air conditioning bracket is loose.
Not enough room to get at the sender...

Need to remove the air conditioning compressor from the bracket to make some room. This means the battery and battery tray needs to come out. Then, very little room to get the compressor off of the bracket. After that, my oil sending unit comes out easy.

I find that it's 1/4 npt.....Not 1/8 as I had planned with my T. I sure hope I can find what I need locally tomorrow so I don't have to do this twice.
 












Thx Tim. I'm going to start with Princess Auto, then work thru home depot and rona.

Most guys seem to make their T's from places like this anyway.
 






turbo oil feed.jpg
oil feed 1 way capped.jpg
farm implement store to the rescue.
Took 2 trips, as on the first config I ran the oil straight up, and it would be in the way of my power steering/air conditioning bracket.

I am using a 1 way valve at the other end of the oil feed line, and have just capped it for now. The one way is just to stop oil from running in to the turbo when the truck (oil return pump) isn't running. Hopefully, avoiding some startup smoke.

In the next day or two I'll run the oil feed to the back of the truck along with electrical for the oil return pump.

This may very well have been the hardest part of the build. We will see.
 






Turbo

Nice to see some progress!
I cant wait to see how it does with a turbo. Turbos don't take horse power to run like superchargers. I am expecting this thing to haul a$$.
 






check valve

hey where did you get that check valve? I'm having trouble finding specs on check valves. No one really mentions temperature ratings, cracking pressure, oil safe, or if they are true 1/4" all the way through. I also would like to see some pressure drop graphs. Are you sure you don't need to step up to a 3/8" check valve?

I had something like this mind... http://www.homedepot.com/p/HIGHFIEL...Check-Valve-F100HCV/202274775?keyword=F100HCV
 






Mcmaster Carr is where the check valves came from.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-check-valves/=sqi5n0

Since my oil feed it AN4, I don't need a bigger check valve. In testing yesterday, there is extremely high flow rate thru the check valve (I should have taken a picture of my garage floor).

I did look at different sizes of a few mcmaster carr check valves, and even if you were ordering a larger inlet/outlet the sealing ball was the same size internally. I wouldn't worry about it on the feed side though. Trust me, the turbo will not starve from lack of oil flow to the turbo.

Im actually kind of excited about getting moving on this again.
 






oh sweeeeet. I totally forgot about that place. Yea man get to it. I think I might beat ya to the sound of a turbo screaming for mercy though ;)
 






great idea on the check valve deal. I ordered my 1/4" quick open check valve yesterday and got it today. It looks great and I can open it with the air from my lungs, making it perfect for stopping a few feet of gravity weighted oil.

Thanks,
Bill
 






Happy to help! Your helping me with motivation.

I have run the power back to the scavenge pump and the oil feed line to the back (capped off, of course). This weekend I'll be doing the cold side, wiring of the wideband and getting the scavenge pump on a relay keyed by the fuel pump.

I just emailed James my vehicle strategy code so he can build me a base tune and email it to me when he has a moment.

If I can get this done, and don't find I'm missing anything, I just might be able get the exhaust shop to install the turbo in a week or two. Then, install the injectors and the cold side at home and start tuning.
 






now to help you with the turbo, or haul ass on my project so i am not sucking on dust....
hmmmmmmm
:scratch:
 






Hahaha, you will have to be over for the start up, just because.

I have a miter saw with a 10 inch blade and a metal blade for it, so cutting the aluminum piping should be easy.

Who knows, if all goes well, next weekend you can instruct me on injector replacement. Going to have to get those 60lb'ers in and route the catch can breathing tubes.

So, in our immediate area, we will have a m90 4.0 ohv Ex, a M112 5.0 Ex, and a turbo 5.0 Ex.
Tim, we rock!
 






So, in our immediate area, we will have a m90 4.0 ohv Ex, a M112 5.0 Ex, and a turbo 5.0 Ex.
Tim, we rock!

yup. spending thousands upon thousands of dollars to break into the 14 second barrier. once again proving to this forum that us canucks isnt dumb......:crazy:
 



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So true.
Mom always said education costs money.
The older I get, the smarter I think she is.

So, I get to work this morning, and James has already emailed me a base tune. So, I am really running out of excuses.
 






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