Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

[Dono]

delexploder, that was a nice setup.

I don't have those fabrication skills to route the exhaust like that, so Im going to go rear mount on the turbo. Not as efficient, but planned right, I think it will be pretty darn good.

 

[delexploder]

Im just looking at what they did with the tanks for your application, they cut the overflow tank off and i think its a van overflow they used

 

[Turdle]

I think the saleen picture is a belt driven supercharger.

 

[2000StreetRod]

release latches

Thanks Guys!

Dale, I looked at that junction box, and couldn't see how to get at that DarkGreen/Yellow wire.
Is there space to see that wire if I unbolt the box and lift it up?

The red arrows in the top photo identify the latches that hold the box to the support bracket. If you insert a flat blade screwdriver between the box and the bracket the latch tab releases and the box can carefully be slid upwards. Once the box is released all of the wires to the relays, etc. are fully exposed.

Click on the link "remote crank" in my signature for explanation.

 

[delexploder]

I think the saleen picture is a belt driven supercharger.

It is, im just looking at the tanks, the simple way they made room there may be helpful, and i think they used a overflow from a van but a simple one from the dorman help section in a parts store would work

 

[Dono]

Thanks Dale, Im always learning. This is great info. Last night was an epic fail at finding the wire.

On the tank front, I cut my tanks down, and glued them back together so I could retain the exact mounting points and keep everything looking factory. I picked up a spare tank assy to modify from the pick n pull. Modified it, and installed. The only issue I ran in to was that the one I modified didn't have the level sensor in it. Drilled a hole, installed it...and....It leaked. ****. I removed it, and used some black tar thats used for vapor barrier around the grommet and re-sealed. No leaks, and it works fine. I'll post a picture.

I might change the config later, as I'll have a big empty hole when my stock air box comes out. Or, I might install a water/Meth tank there and move the kit over from my supercharged explorer.

On a side note, my V8 pulls 22 lbs vacuum at idle in park. That's pretty good. At wot, it shows vacuum of 0, so I definitely have no intake restrictions.

Im still waiting on a couple of 6AN fittings from an ebay purchase before I can do my fuel pump install. Its been over 2 weeks now. I guess that's the price I pay for being cheap.

 

[2000StreetRod]

good progress

You're making good progress and will surely have your turbo 5.0L running long before my supercharged 4.0L. Keep up the good work!

 

[Dono]

You're making good progress and will surely have your turbo 5.0L running long before my supercharged 4.0L. Keep up the good work!

Your running in to some pretty significant issues. No one here would have ever expected these. Your doing a great job, and it definitely is not going to be a hack job. I'm sure your wondering what you have gotten yourself in to. All you can do is keep pounding away at it. You will get there.

Im sure I'll be in for my share of issues also.

 

[Dono]

Fuel pump is in, along with high volume/efficiency Fuel filter with braided line running to it.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393262

No Leaks on start up. Made me happy.
Also, my Supercharged explorer has had an issue ever since the fuel pump was installed. With less that 1/4 tank there was always risk of stalling going around a corner too fast as gas would slosh away from the fuel pump inlet. I'm happy to report that I am not seeing this issue on my new truck. I'm not sure if I the fuel pump strainer isn't seated properly, or if it is the less expensive pump causing the issue.

The Aeromotive pump is quieter than the factory pump. I couldn't hear it at all when I turned the key for the first time. That caused me a moment of stress.

I'm waiting on some aluminum welding to be done. A frame mounting bracket is being made for my intercooler, and the slot maf mount is being welded to a chunk of 3 inch aluminum pipe.

Once that's done, I'll work on installing the intercooler, radiator, and pump.

The blow off valve is going to have to go under the truck also, before the intercooler (The MAF is going under the truck, about a foot after the intercooler). James said if I have the BOV after the maf, there will be a rich condition when it opens. The BOV can't be close to the maf either, or air turbulence around the maf will cause bad readings and the computer will have a fit (Translates to possible stalling). These are the things that are extremely helpful to know to avoid possible issues. The good news is that I have lots of cold side piping to make sure everything is done exactly to spec. The bad news is that there is more wiring under the truck (Tucked high in the frame rail, but still not ideal).

Installing the intercooler radiator and pump is going to take some work. I look at what StreetRod2000 is doing, and cringe at the work involved. Ideally, a radiator that was 24 inches by 7 inches would be perfect, and easy to install. Unfortunately siliconeintakes only has one that's 26 inches wide. This fits perfectly between the frame rails, but allows no room for the inlet and outlet. Too bad.

 

[2000StreetRod]

intercooler pump location

While recently browsing the internet I've learned that locating the intercooler pump below the air filter enclosure is fairly common for foreign manufactured cars. Many owners are replacing their stock pumps with the Bosch pump which is larger in diameter but has a significantly greater flow capacity. Most stock installations (Jaguar for example) encase the pump in a cushioning material to reduce vibration being transmitted to the passenger compartment. I think that is unnecessary with the Bosch pump. Also, insulation will cause the pump to run hotter.

I'm glad you're not having fuel starvation during cornering with the new pump in your V8 model. I wonder if there are any differences in the tank baffling. Have you checked to see if the fuel pressure at the rail has changed? Mine increased 5 psi which affected the air/fuel ratio at WOT. From your description it sounds like you now have a highly reliable and effective fuel delivery system.

Purchasing an intercooler heat exchanger will allow your system to be pressurized and more effective than my unpressurized system. I hope that you're able to find one that fits well. I've learned from my oil coolers that placing them closer to the A/C condenser increases air flow thru the cooler at low speeds when the radiator fan is providing most of the flow.

Keep up the good work!

 

[Dono]

Thanks for the tip. I think my intercooler is going to be close, just because I can't figure out any other way of making it fit. At least its a positive.

I don't have any gauges hooked up yet other than my vac gauge. No wideband of fuel pressure gauge, so I have no idea what happened to fuel pressure or wot a/f ratio.

Im using the sct with strategy tuning only as I don't want to waste James's time with tuning when it will be changing in spring.
What I did find is that at wot I used to get that catalytic converter smell, making me think I must have been running pretty rich. After installing the strategy tune, no more smell at wot. After the fuel pump upgrade, still no smell. Not exactly scientific.

If I get ambitious, I'll turn off my rear o2 sensors and install the wideband in to a hole and tune my wot air/fuel ratio the right way. I know the factory makes wot run super rich, but I don't really see a need for that. Id be happy with 12.5-13 to 1 at wot while I'm naturally aspirated.

Another thing I noticed is that the strategy tune bumps the timing up pretty far. I advanced the timing 2 degree's more than the strategy tune did and could hear detonation at near/full wot. I backed off a degree and haven't heard any more detonation, so I'll leave it. That tells me the strategy tune advances the timing about as much as the motor can handle on 87 octane gas.

I should really log and see what my timing is doing out of curiosity, along with a/f ratio

 

[2000StreetRod]

wideband a/f ratio sensor

. . . If I get ambitious, I'll turn off my rear o2 sensors and install the wideband in to a hole and tune my wot air/fuel ratio the right way. . .

I think the wideband a/f ratio sensor should be located upstream of any catalytic converters to be accurate. I had mine installed downstream of the narrowband O2 sensor.

 

[Turdle]

I think the wideband a/f ratio sensor should be located upstream of any catalytic converters to be accurate. I had mine installed downstream of the narrowband O2 sensor.
View attachment 75488

I had mine in the rear 02 sensor holes (post cat) per James request.

 

[Dono]

I'll have to check with James on final placement of where the wideband goes.
Some of the turbo forum guys are saying that Innovate says not to put their o2 sensor on the compressed exhaust side, but instead to install it in the exhaust after it has run thru the turbo. This would mean I'd have to install it in the tail pipe.

 

[2000StreetRod]

just for convenience

I had mine in the rear 02 sensor holes (post cat) per James request.

That was probably just for convenience. James probably adjusted for the sensor location. According to my Autometer 5978 instructions:
"The oxygen sensor should be installed as close to the cylinder head as is reasonably possible so that the sensor reaches operating temperature quickly. If long tube headers are used, the oxygen sensor should be installed in the collector. If cast iron manifolds or shorty headers are used, install the sensor in the pipe just below the manifold. In multi-bank applications mounting in the or right side acceptable. Turbocharged applications should have sensor installed 4-5" after turbo on the down pipe."

Related to the above:

"All O2 sensors must be heated before an accurate signal is produced. Potential sensor damage can occur if the gauge begins to heat the sensor before the engine is running due to condensation that forms on the sensor tip and in the exhaust. To accomodate this, an internal trigger within the gauge will automatically begin heating the sensor when 13.5 volts or higher is seen on the Red wire. While this voltage is not required to operate, this voltage is used to indicate that the engine is running. Once the gauge sees 13.5 volts, it will begin heating the sensor and begin a 20 second countdown. When the countdown is complete, the sensor is adequately heated, and the gauge will begin reading air/fuel ratio in real-time."

 

[Dono]

I found a new intercooler radiator that will fit way easier.
the radiator core size is 500X200X52 (19.68" x 7.87" x 2")

The water inlet/outlet size is 19mm (3/4")

This will allow a low mount and have the inlet/outlet on the correct side. Very little modifying to my Ex, I thought about adding a pressure relief valve, but cant see it ever getting hot enough to build pressure. I think I might Just add a 3/4" T in the line that runs up behind the headlight for filling, and using a screw on cap.

I want to have the intercooler and cooling system mounted and just capped off so no debris gets in the air flow. This way, I can have the cold side completed and taken off until the turbo is installed. Then, It will be a simple bolt on operation when the time comes (a few less surprises when things don't quite fit).

The guy making my intercooler mount out of aluminum has been busy, so its still not done. I'm in no huge rush to get started anyway.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Drain plug

That drain plug is a nice convenience. My "heat exchanger" has no drain and both ports are on top. That makes it difficult to flush out the old ATF even using the intercooler pump. If your screw on cap seals the system then pressure will build up as the coolant warms up. The simplest implementation is a vented cap.

 

[Dono]

I do have a vented cap, I just havent figured out a good way to install it yet. It has a flow thru type setup. Maybe I could still use a T, and just cap off the other side.
Here's what I have.

Then, I could use the overflow tank just like my engine radiator. Maybe even just T the smaller overflow line.

 

[2000StreetRod]

pressurized cap

The photo you posted looks like a pressurized cap with an overpressure vent that allows flow to an overflow port just like a standard radiator cap. If you buy a cap with a pressure release lever and leave the lever open the system will be vented.

 

[Dono]

I think pressurized is the best route to go, I just don't know that pressure will ever go over the 13psi rating. I guess its still better to have the fail-safe in the cap, just in case.

I'll have a close look at the assembly and see if I can just cap one side off, as installing it 'in-line' will make it really low and difficult to fill. Routing 2 hoses up higher in a in-line system will create quite a few more corners in the fluid flow reducing flow rate.