Jessejp05
Member
- Joined
- August 21, 2021
- Messages
- 45
- Reaction score
- 57
- City, State
- Plant city Florida
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1993 Ford Explorer XLT
Update: Had O'Reilly's load test the battery - ended up with a new one. It also tested as "charging" and also "bad battery " for them - they said it wouldn't HOLD a charge. No problems in the 3 days since. Got the replacement for the replacement new master window switch today and installed it - fits better than the previous which lasted 23 days. Started checking the wires in that door boot, and found the pink/yellow wire broken. All windows work except the driver's one. Will dig into the wires more tomorrow.To properly check a battery, you need a load tester. Typically it will load the battery at half it's amp-hour rating and you observe the voltage while its loaded. It would not be worth you buying one for a one time use such as this. The best thing you have right now to load the battery is the starting system.
Chances are you battery is ok. Does it discharge while not connected to the vehicle? More than likely there is a faulty vehicle system that is dragging it down. You will need to isolate that system. Does your meter have an amps setting?
Remember tug on each wireUpdate: Had O'Reilly's load test the battery - ended up with a new one. It also tested as "charging" and also "bad battery " for them - they said it wouldn't HOLD a charge. No problems in the 3 days since. Got the replacement for the replacement new master window switch today and installed it - fits better than the previous which lasted 23 days. Started checking the wires in that door boot, and found the pink/yellow wire broken. All windows work except the driver's one. Will dig into the wires more tomorrow.
Not sure what you mean. Unless it's like this - Want to find the endpoint of each wire and wiggle the wire while using the voltage meter. I can find some of these on the switch contacts.Remember tug on each wire
Tug on them to see if they are broken insideNot sure what you mean. Unless it's like this - Want to find the endpoint of each wire and wiggle the wire while using the voltage meter. I can find some of these on the switch contacts.
ThxBe very gentle tugging on them a little. Each wire has end terminals which "plug into" a hole in the connectors. Those plastic connectors all have tiny plastic tangs which stick out into those holes, to engage(hold) each terminal. Those tiny plastic tangs can break or get damaged(from wires pulled hard to force them out), and then the terminals can easily come out on their own.
You want to confirm that each wire is connected properly to both end connectors, so continuity is good.
Similar to the process in SE Wisconsin. Passed but hated the wait and the hassle. AND the pollution they were trying to prevent, was simply floating in on the wind from the NEXT county! Glad I don't have to bother with it anymore up farther north.No emissions testing here in KY since the early 2000s. When they did do it; back in the 90s, guys would take thier old cars to see how it would do. Properly tuned Model As were passing. Albeit just barely.
They really put your truck to the test, either that or the noise is the tires? Do they run it through the full RPM band? I've not ever had to take a vehicle, so I have no idea how the process works. Im sure Cali has its own unique rules over other emissions states as well?
I agree that does suck.California has the same type testing as Miracopa County for pre OBD2 vehicles. I take everything to the same shop, owned and operated by my neighbor's brother. The Explorer passes very clean every year, even with a aftermarket cat. It's grandfathered in or it wouldn't pass the visual inspection.
What really sucks here is engine swap rules. You can't swap a engine into a different class vehicle. I have always wanted to stuff a GM supercharged 3800 V6 in the Explorer. They have lots of aftermarket support, build a nice amount of HP/torque, it will fit without any suspension modifications, and it bolts right up to my 700R4 trans. It would be more efficient, yet not allowed because that engine was never in a vehicle classified by California as a "Utility" vehicle.
Can you point me to the specifics for this? I know there are restrictions about engine swaps, but I don't recall seeing this one about prohibited class swaps in what I have read.You can't swap a engine into a different class vehicle.
I have often thought one of those V6 EcoBoost Transit power trains would be perfect in an early Explorer. Those vans are pretty fast for what they are and I imagine it could motorvate an Ex rather easily.I agree that does suck.
Can you use a later Ford V6 from an F150 or Transit Van, which also came in the late Explorers? I'd like to see the 2017+ 3.7 fitted to a 2nd gen truck, and it would go into a 1st gen too with similar minor issues. I may try it if and when I get other projects done, my 98 302 is still sick and I think it may need the engine R&R'd.
Not with that transmission. Needs a 60* bell housing, which is what my 700R4 has, so it needs to be a GM based engine. The only adaptors for that transmission are for the OEM 4.0.I agree that does suck.
Can you use a later Ford V6 from an F150 or Transit Van, which also came in the late Explorers? I'd like to see the 2017+ 3.7 fitted to a 2nd gen truck, and it would go into a 1st gen too with similar minor issues. I may try it if and when I get other projects done, my 98 302 is still sick and I think it may need the engine R&R'd.
Any vehicle manufactured prior to 1975 is exempt from these laws, so you should be able to stuff any engine you want in a Metro.Can you point me to the specifics for this? I know there are restrictions about engine swaps, but I don't recall seeing this one about prohibited class swaps in what I have read.
Might change my plans for cbr engine swap into my nash metro.