which powerplant?

[CDW6212R]

Look at my balancer, see the aluminum toothed wheel? That is the trigger wheel from a used Explorer balancer, and it presses onto a ledge on the back of the balancer. The one wide tooth, marked in the picture, that is the TDC for the crank sensor on the timing cover. So there is just one signal every revolution of the crank. I don't know anything else about the signal, but hopefully some of the aftermarket companies will. If you could confirm that the signal is alike, you might adapt an aftermarket crank trigger to a common balancer.

 

[seth247]

oh ok I got you.

Your saying that their are aftermarket trigger wheels and if I can find one that matches the stock it will be easier to adapt to an aftermarket balancer.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, I began the work for the custom balancer hoping it would be cheaper. Then when I discovered how easily it could be made(stated by Total Performance), I went with that. To do another engine I would look for an alternative. What I did will work, but maybe something else is cheaper.

 

[seth247]

All righty, step one done, I bought an engine stand. Handles 1250lbs.

Now I need a hoist and then an engine and then a new deck for my dads trailer to transport the engine. Then the real fun begins.

Question: I know every install is different but do you think their is enough room under the hood for a phenolic spacer, maybe 1 inch?

Another question: will it be a good idea to take the engine to a dyno before I install it to get it tuned up since I'm gonna be makin so Many changes?

 

[CDW6212R]

Ask Jamie but I believe so, the hood room is about the same in all Explorers.

 

[seth247]

what about the tune?

 

[CDW6212R]

what about the tune?

That is a full conversation by itself. Hunt for other threads where any non minor modifications are done. They all need some tuning, only the very minor stuff can get by with no PCM tuning. If you have an engine without massive changes(boost, compression, wild cam), you may choose to try tune which a tuner creates without actual testing of the engine. They can do a decent job with the minor and moderate changes. Contact James and others to get an idea of what they have done. The costs are at least the cost of the flashers, which new are just under $400(with tunes), used can be as little as $150 maybe(no tune included). Custom tuning(with engine testing(data logging)) is the best method but is more an issue of the tuner getting with the vehicle.

 

[seth247]

I guess what I'm asking is will the engine run with the stock computer tune once I have stroked it out and ported the heads and eveything else.

 

[CDW6212R]

I would not suggest trying it. A really major change like adding 15% in displacement should be plenty to make it run rough at best. If you kept the stock MAF and injector size it would be rough still, and not optimized. For the extra breathing from stroking and head flow, bigger MAF and injectors should be mandatory.

Jon had all of that plus oversize 42# injectors, he bought a MAF adjuster to attempt to get better driveability. That got him running for a long time, but he had driveability issues that he would tell you to not go through. Unless you pass on the stroking, and better heads etc, the PCM flasher should be considered required as part of the combination. Contact James when you get to building the engine, he will gladly go through the details and options with you.

 

[techieman33]

The tuning is really important, I've driven Jtsmiths trucks before and after it was tuned and it made a huge difference, I couldn't believe it was the same mounty after the tuning was done.

 

[seth247]

oh ok so the flasher will be enough to get me running smooth.

 

[410Fortune]

it will run smooth without the tune, get it in, running, work bugs out (can take some time) then worry about the tune

A new deck for dad's trailer?
I usually move the engine / trans around on top of an old tire or two.....

I do not know if there is enough room under the hood for a 1" intake spacer, my 96 has a 3" body lift so I have PLENTY of room

In my 1988 Bronco II with the 5.0L there is not enough room for a 1/4" spacer LOL at least not without re-working the TB and IAC valve

my BII has the 5.0L down as low as possible in the frame and I have no body lift, my hood clears my IAC valve by about 1/4" according to the play-doe test I did

 

[techieman33]

oh ok so the flasher will be enough to get me running smooth.

As long as you have a good tuner like James on the other side of it writing some good tunes for you. Honestly driving Jon's felt just like mine you couldn't tell that everything was custom until you put your foot in it and and took off like a bat out of hell

 

[seth247]

yeah my dads trailer Is just a frame right now. It needs some deck boards.

Cool. How much does James charge? I had forgotten he was a tuner.

Btw, how much does a 302 weigh?

 

[techieman33]

yeah my dads trailer Is just a frame right now. It needs some deck boards.

Cool. How much does James charge? I had forgotten he was a tuner.

Btw, how much does a 302 weigh?

You'll have to talk to James about cost since it won't be just basic tunes. I'd suggest you start talking to him about it he'll be able to tell you a lot more than any of the rest of us could, he's helped me out a lot and will take good care of you.

 

[seth247]

man the engine mounts from AA and James duff are too expensive. Is there a stock mount from a v8 explorer or something I can use that's cheaper.

 

[410Fortune]

I have heard mustang mount, convertible preferred, swapped side to side

You may have to use Mustang engine mount plates also

In fact the mounts that AA sell and James Duff sells (Duff is an AA dealer) are nothing more then Mustang mounts swapped side to side

I believe this would be Fox body mustangs we are talking about here 80 something -93

I am running the L&L conversion mounts

Some things in this conversion you are going to have to shell out $$$ for, but not the AA radiator or engine mounts if you are on a budget.

Do not skimp on the oil filter re-locator, I have seen many times the cheapo "pot" metal style used and then leak.... if it leaks you have to pull the engine up/out to replace it. I am using a Canton billet adapter....its top notch!
some things are worth the $$$$$$, like the TM headers, Canton 90degree filter adapter, etc

Again all this was discussed in my thread
research is your best friend! I researched the 5.0L conversion for YEARS, i even kept a folder... everytime I would come across something I liked, somebodies conversion online I would save the info.....and I wasnt even planning to go V8 ever! I was happy with my 4.0L.... just not the trans

 

[seth247]

cool I'll check out those mustang mounts. I remember hearing some thing about the convertible being different.

Yeah I like my 4.0 as well minus the -trany. Some times I'm surprised with the power on a cool night. And I've got 31" tires. but I'm a late bloomer in the atumotive area. Didn't really care about cars until late highschool (when I happened to be driving a light blue, rusty christler minivan[oh yeah, that's right, drool]) so now I'm kinda making up for lost time.

 

[seth247]

So I finally remembered to get under the truck and look andit turns out I have 3.73's.

Is this a good ratio with the v8? (for a mostly street truck)

What's the next step up, 4.10's?

Btw. What's with the inconsistancy with mustang motor mounts? Some look just like the aa or James duff stuff. Then some look different, like, completelyEven the same year and body style.

Then I found the landl website and they have the wierdest ones yet.

 

[Mbrooks420]

3.73's should work well on the street, and your correct 4.10 is the next step.