which powerplant?

[Turdle]

I don't want to disappoint but my 347 is to replace my 302 in my Mountaineer. I'm about to finish the swap of the BW4406 4WD into it first. It's here at my house with the radiator being cleaned out. When I get it running again I'll take it to my friend's where we have more tools. I'll make a thread about the A4WD soon first.

I'd like to tell you to find a good used engine, but that is not very easy given specific needs like you have. There are new parts out there also, the Corral forum has all kinds of things. The problem is that most are not exactly what you want, and those that are typically cost about the same as if you bought it new yourself. I have seen a lot of shortblocks and longblocks there, heads etc new and used. The prices I paid for my engine are not amazingly cheap, but no more than any of those deals from others for there used or new and not wanted stuff.

Price a wish parts engine on Ford Strokers, then shop around to see what may turn up similar to what you want. FYI, skip the forged crank and H-beam rods unless you will reach at least 450hp. Regards,

We need to get that crap under cover huh?

Dang that is pretty Don. Very pretty. Daddy like--

I'm on it, by the way.

Forgive me, but I see no lifter guides. What are you using to keep them rolling straight?


NM
I see the spider-you must have the retrofit "double u" guides. Good deal.

 

[CDW6212R]

...
I see the spider-you must have the retrofit "double u" guides. Good deal.

It's a roller block with the stock lifter spider bracket. I may still use a steel oil pan because the ARP bolts are too short for the aluminum pan(BTW touches four studs). Several other ARP bolts are the wrong length or the stock bolt has a studded head. I'll just use what I can of the ARP bolts.

BTW who can identify the valve retainers, I didn't order them?

 

[CDW6212R]

ok so we need to talk about this balancer pickup.

i assume its purpose is to relate crank position to the computer in order for the computer to determine the precise time to fire the ignition correct?

why did they not have this part on the foxbodies?

The Explorer crank trigger sensor is more accurate than a distributor, like all Explorers it's called a DIS ignition system.

I don't think that there is a choice for the crank balancer other than the stock trigger wheel. There are no other Ford pushrod V8's with DIS, so making do is the best answer. I was told last Winter that the stock Ford balancers were the only units with enough material on the backside to machine and add the trigger wheel to them. Ford only makes the one 28oz. balancer, for older smallblocks. The part is only $75 from Ford, but it isn't an SFI spec. unit, so it's not good for high rpm racing. The machine work was more than I would have expected, mainly because I have no connection with them. I can get decent prices here, but I dealt with Total Performance because they are familiar with the Ford parts.

 

[seth247]

I keep hereing this name total performance but I can't find them online.

Oh yeah. And I've deided to keep the stock diplacment. I'll just go through the motor and make it nice and shiny.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well with a 302 you can stay with the stock balancer.

There are two Total Performance businesses, both are up in the North. TOTAL PERFORMANCE ,(810) 468-3710, 44050 N. Groesback, Clenton Township, Ml 48036
They don't seem to have any internet site.

 

[seth247]

got me a motor.

'99 GT40p + 4r70w +accesories= $870

Have to get a deck in my dads trailer before I can take it home.

 

[seth247]

got me a motor.

'99 GT40p + 4r70w +accesories= $870

Have to get a deck in my dads trailer before I can take it home.

 

[CDW6212R]

That is very good, now you cannot be tempted by this used hurt 347 shortblock; http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1052504

 

[seth247]

I would be tempted by that if I already had a block I Could yank the periferals off of.

Damn just remebered I've got to buy an engine hoist. This project sucks money!

I am NOT looking forward to purchasing the AA tcase adapter.

 

[CDW6212R]

The 347 rotating assembly can run $1300 I recall, for the H-beam rods and forged crank. For a budget build that is the kind of deal you look for.

The best deal I've seen so far was an aluminum 351W block for about $800. Those cost $3800 new, so a used one needing one sleeve is a bargain. I'd love to find a 302 like that.

 

[seth247]

yeah I just don't have the money nor really the need to justify that in the ex.

When I get a nice four eyed foxbody then I'll go down that road.

After hearing about the balancer slipage issues with factory balancers I want to replace this one before I drop it in.

Oem is my only way to go correct?

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, and stock balancers are not very high. Most trouble with them comes from high rpm or very high mileage. The guys that did mine told me that a lot of people have raced with them. Of course for racing they generally will not put very many miles on one before it dies/blows or they sell it. It means that they do fine in normal rpm use.

 

[410Fortune]

I am NOT looking forward to purchasing the AA tcase adapter.

LOL
or having the trans rebuilt in order to stuff the new output shaft in there.
A Adapter = $550
Trans "soft" rebuild to fit output shaft = $750

$1300 of my conversion just right there, $1300 is half way to an Atlas T case



Have you considered your other options?
I would have liked to stuff a 4406 under my BII instead of buying the AA adapter and rebuilding the trans, but thats a TIGHT fit. 4406 is HUGE compared to 1354

Dana 20 twin stick is a sick t case when built. Getting that sucker behind your 4r70w trans is alot cheaper from what I understand it just requires a stub shaft and shorter tailhousing adapter ( no rebuilding or 4r70w)

Or you can bite the bullet and go Atlas 3.8 or 4.0 T case to bolt to your 6 bolt 4r70w

I do like the 4r70w and 1354 combo now that I have all the bugs sorted out in my BII, but I like the low range better in my 96 Explorer with the 4406

 

[seth247]

do I have to rebuild the trany?

I thought I'd just slip in the new output shaft and tailhousing and try it out.

Will I have to have the rotating assembly rebalanced after changing balancers?

 

[410Fortune]

output shaft is the first part to go in when you are rebuilding an auto trans
So yes, the AA kit comes with a new output shaft, the entire 4r70w must be torn apart to install it.

 

[seth247]

damn

 

[CDW6212R]

...

Will I have to have the rotating assembly rebalanced after changing balancers?

You can swap the balancers at any time with the stock parts. They are suppose to be identical in balance. For a proper performance engine that you put together, that should avoid swapping the balancer or flexplate. Those are balanced with the engine, and all parts have a slight variance in tolerances. Two parts that should be identical probably are not. In a stock engine they aren't balanced nearly as well as a performance shop will achieve, that's where some of the extra power comes from.

 

[seth247]

think I'll have it balnced anyway. Like you say...better performance.

I'm goin to serious ly consider the bw4406 swap now.

Then I would not have to rebuild correct?

 

[410Fortune]

4406 bolts to the 4r70w, it was used in 4.6 & 5.4L F-150's behind the 4r70w
(the reason all of us 5.0L explorer nuts are ditching our AWD t cases and dropping these in. Tight fit in gen II, not sure about a gen I, you may be the first)

It would be very difficult to stuff the 4406 into my BII, your Gen I Explorer may be a little bit different
Lots of measuring to be done there it might not even fit between your frame rails!
I do not know of any pre IFS trucks running the 4406 t case

 

[seth247]

can you measure your tcade from the center of the rear dshaft joint to the outside of the casing on the drivers side?

This will tell me how far over it will stick and I can measure fitment.

I am reading your "goes lowrange" thread as we speak.