MAF to Throttle Body Intake Tube First Generation Explorer - Build Your Own

[jd4242]

here is a good site that sells parts to build your own intake.i use there 7"fan on the front side of my radiator (as a back up or for 4x4 on the beach)as well as a zirgo 16" 3000 cfm fan on the back

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?osCsid=d5cd5268836845edeef3e6e9cabea24b

 

[exploder09]

Here's what i did with mine, I used a mustang 75mm MAF sensor (turned it upside down) let's more air in Then i removed the battery bought 12 ft cable and ran it to the trunk then i made a custom intake tube 1 90 and 2 6 inch pipes, for the cold air i drilled out the battery holder and modified some drainpipe to bring it up. Then for the Oil Breather i bought a matching small filter and used the original hosing (i seen some posts on here with 90 elbows for the oil breather) You don't need to do that. I think it cost me less then a 100 dollers including the spectre air filter it's the biggest kind you can get but fits perfectly with this setup. Physically the clearance from the hood looks impossible but it can be done cause mine is fine. As for holding the intake which is pretty heavy to stop it sliding into the pulley i used trusty old cable ties and tied it to part of the radiator.,

 

[seth247]

very nice. I may move my batt back to make room for my intake.

 

[exploder09]

Yeah it's better then cluttering up the hood

 

[jtb1689]

I dropped by my local pull-a-part today and while I was there figured I'd look for a 5.0 maf sensor. I found a 2nd gen 4.0 that had the maf housing inside of the bigger housing hiding the maf sensor and everything from plain sight. Much to my surprise when I tore into out of curiosity the maf housing was much larger diameter than that of my stock 93 4.0's maf housing. Meaning it wasn't the larger diameter that tapered into the really small diameter in the middle utilizing a "venturi" effect. This was about the same diameter all the way across with the bar down the middle like a 5.0 maf. My question: did the 4.0 maf's come in different styles in different years? And would this be fine for my engine because unless the previous owner did the 5.0 maf mod, this is not a 5.0 maf but seems to be what everyone is using.

 

[bobbyt09]

the pics aint working

 

[bobbyt09]

hey the pics for the intake wont show up is there any way u can email them to me at bobbyjtibbetts@yahoo.com

 

[jd4242]

what pic are you trying to see and what are you trying to do?
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[bobbyt09]

the pics of...MAF to Throttle Body Intake Tube First Generation Explorer - Build Your Own

 

[dmm]

Hi, yesterday I change my original MAF housing (X '93 Sport) for a 70 mm of Ranger MAF housing, using the Explorer electronic. The engine start very bad, but after few minutes its run better. Today the chek engine light comes on after 8 milles. Before, the ligth comes on ever after 5 milles, then turn off/on in long travel several times, 1-2 minutes and then come off, after few minutes again comes on...

Troble codes in the PCM (before this change) is 175, 176, 185, 186 and ¿538? (i don't remember) I suposed that with this change the problem is over, but continues. Moreover the change of the MAF housing I clean the MAF sensor with electronic cleaner

 

[tootall_54]

so if i am reading this all right the MAF on the second gen 5.0 would be about equivalent as to using a stang MAF

 

[CrazyAlaskan]

the pics on the first page are not working any more.

 

[snowboard15]

Hey guys i found a MAF from a 1990 5.0 mustang gt. Is that one of the ones that will work for my 1992 4.0?

 

[1Byounkin]

I like the idea of upgrading my stock 4.0 maf housing to an 5.0 housing using the same maf sensor from your 4.0. But I've searched all over this site seeing a few different thing that could or might happened. I've seen people having to retune their explorer after doing this. It this true? If you just reset your stock sensor from the 4.0 won't you be fine. Are the ones that are doing this and having to retune their explorer, are they just using the wrong maf sensor?

Use:
5.0 maf housing + 4.0 stock maf sensor = good to go

or

5.0 maf housing + 4.0 stock maf sensor = re-tuning explorer

 

[Naasau]

Byo-

To me it sounds like using a stang 5.0 housing with the 4.0 sensor + resetting the computer by pulling the negative battery connecting and waiting for a few minutes is the golden solution. The re-tuning comes in when people start replacing the throttle body (which the OHV engine doesn't really need, as it is much larger than the stock MAF housing, and as such isn't an airflow choke point that we need to worry about unless there is going to be some damned serious upgrades) or going for MAF housings larger than 70mm. I may be totally wrong here but that's what I've gleaned from reading a bunch of threads of the past 2 days.

Hope that helps some.

 

[jd4242]

The largest aftermarket tb is 66mm and the stock one is way less than that.in an open loop the engine does go lean with the new maf and bbk 66mm tb but it not dangerous lean.

 

[1Byounkin]

I bought a 70mm MAF housing on ebay and it works great. Just reset the computer.

 

[Dr.Manhattan]

So if I were to get a Mustang MAF, but wanted to attach a cone filter for Ram air, would that be a bad thing, or is it good to have the airtube restrictive?

When you are building a intake it can only flow as good as your smallest passage. on an explorer the MAF is very restrictive. So if you use the MAF off of a mustang it makes it so the MAF is no longer the smallest passage.

In an explorer the most restrictive parts are the stock air box, MAF, air filter, and the throttle body. The air tube is not restrictive unless you have a cone filter, mustang MAF, and 66mm throttle body. So if you have a stock MAF, Stock air box/filter, and stock throttle body, then you wont feel a gain with the PVC intake. BUT if you have spaire time to build it AND you plan of getting Larger MAF and throttle body then go for it. I would have one but i have one of the explorers that doesent have the clearence. once i get my bodylift i will slap the intake i made on there and beat every ricer and GM i can!!!!

 

[Dr.Manhattan]

Nice thread, but I've read that if you use PVC it gets hot and can release toxic fumes. I also know there are three grades to PVC, the cheapest being foam based. What did you use, and how do you prevent it from melting, or releasing these fumes?

This might also be a stupid question, but looking at the Maf, or TB? (don't really know what that stands for) how would you hook a conical filter up to it?

 

[Naasau]

Dr. Manahattan, sorry for the late response, but from what I've seen I agree with you that PVC might not be ideal, besides, PVC has thicker walls than I would really like.

MAF= Mass AirFlow Sensor, which is the collar right by the airbox and filter (very restrictive, as it is tiny).
TB= Throttle Body, which is a butterfly valve that limits how much air goes into the upper intake manifold and can be found at the end of the air intake tube right at the connection point to the block.

So if I were to get a Mustang MAF, but wanted to attach a cone filter for Ram air, would that be a bad thing, or is it good to have the airtube restrictive?

Basically, the more air in and out of the engine, the better it will operate (within reason) The stock airflow intake tube and the stock MAF collar are both extremely restrictive, so replacing only one of them will probably net you no positive results, as air will only flow as fast as it's smallest passageway (which for me should be the TB.) So, long answer short, Cone = good, stock airflow restriction = Bad.

At O'rielly/Checker they sell Spectre air intake parts with silicone couplings that are cheap (about $30 for everything) and look to be easy bolt on's, I'm looking at something a bit different for my X, but if you want quick, easy, and will *probably* fit without adjustment, I would say start there. Also, for the cone filter question, I"m looking into moving the battery out of the engine compartment all together (I'm adding a 2nd one to power my winch) but for someone not so into welding, it might be a good idea to look into swapping the stock airbox/battery mount locations, that way you can box in the cone filter (boxing in would be ideal, as hot engine compartment air is less dense, which means less overall air for the fuel to mix with), which you can bolt on using a universal collar adapter, and get fresh air from the front.

Sorry for rambling on, let me know if I made any sense or could clarify anything.