MAF to Throttle Body Intake Tube First Generation Explorer - Build Your Own | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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MAF to Throttle Body Intake Tube First Generation Explorer - Build Your Own

:salute:You can put a small filter at the end of this line

look at :biggthump
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:exp:

you can not do this.it creates a vac leak,if you still have your pcv on.the engine is a closed vac loop,vac is applied to both sides of the valve covers and sucks up blow bye gasses.you remove one side and unmetered fresh air would be sucked through that filter to the other side into the intake manifold.this would be fine if it did it before the maf so it could be metered but its not
 



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This is my next mod. i have used these spacers before, and they do help a little.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/airaid-throttle-body-spacer/p2005659.jcwx?filterid=c55511u0j1

I plugged in my explorer on the link you provided , and it says the TB spacer won't work.

If you're dead set on buying one, go ahead. There's not much if any improvements to be made with bolt on parts.... mostly not. The largest room for improvement is going to be the cylinder heads.

If you want to put a cold air intake, TB spacer, and big **** tb, stick to Honda's or some other Japanese car... these items don't work on explorers.

I myself DO have an air intake on mine, there's probably been not much gain in my tinkering. I only put it on because I got most of my stuff for free.
 






im a Ford man all i will ever own and i hate hondas. i use bolt ons cause i rarely keep a vehicle for more than a year. i do not like to put alot of money a vehicle and not get my money back when i sell. i havent yet decided on how long i will keep the explorer.
 






jd4242 how is the air filter held on to the MAF sensor?
 






jd4242 how is the air filter held on to the MAF sensor?

you have to get a maf to filter adapter flange.make sure you get one for whatever maf you have
 












do those work on 91-94 explorer?
 






Does anyone know what size filter the guy used in the picture posted up above? I think its called a PCV filter or oil crankcase filter. I am planning to buy one on ebay but theres 12mm, 15mm, and 18mm sizes.
 






Does anyone know what size filter the guy used in the picture posted up above? I think its called a PCV filter or oil crankcase filter. I am planning to buy one on ebay but theres 12mm, 15mm, and 18mm sizes.

Why would you want to do this?tou lose power without a pcv.you HAVE to use two if you do do it,one on each side.
 






Why would you want to do this?tou lose power without a pcv.you HAVE to use two if you do do it,one on each side.

I want to make a custom intake after the MAF sensor because my stock black plastic one has cracks in it at both 90 degree elbows and it would be much simpler to not have to design the intake to include that pipe. Using that filter that is in the picture above makes creating the intake much simpler is the only thing.
 












intakepicupdate.jpg


There's no real performance gain, I did it because I got most of my stuff for free.

Does the metal intake pipe make the car sound a lot louder like most intakes? Hopefully not too much louder...
 






Does the metal intake pipe make the car sound a lot louder like most intakes? Hopefully not too much louder...

I wouldn't know. I have a 2.5" dumped exhaust w/ flowmaster muffler that makes a lot of noise. :D

I do know what you're referring to, and honestly I will have to say no it doesn't.
 






They do make noise when in the gas,no its no where near as loud as cars and other vehicles
 






well i got an qestion now about this typical mount of filterrs inside the engine room

first fuel dont like warm air to mix.. it wants cold air and gives little better torqe why all people put filters inside here for??? i cant understand it me my self drawing it out on drivers side and inside the grill whith an shield aroud it

you got better fuel economy better torqe and better go in engine ... i am trying to put up pics but on my mounts??? help some one icant get it in here hope you understand what i tried to tell all about.. engine needs cold air to mix fuel
 






I know my trouble light is burnt so I don't have to look at it he ha .... drives great at low speed and idle I wanted more ive cleaned my MAF new fuel pump clean air filter new fuel filter I did the seafoamer and TB carb clean yes better excelleration after 20 mph but not great still trying to get more fuel to burn at higher speeds too much bog to pass .....next experiment the clogged EGR

ive noticed even better slow speed with MAF disconnected /air intake tube off

.. with bare TB and no MAF its like the truck wants to surge more with the fuel im sending it like it was tight again with compression ...still not positive at higher speeds could be just timing change advancing or going default from the ecm ?

more air is still an experiment tear off all that sh___ and put a real 4 barrel he ha ...

Really I wish I knew more about bypassing the maf system and what may happen to the truck on the longer run AIR its what everything needs its already proven no one is worried about a short run without a air box (dragsters) but where my fords shined was driving for 8 hours without a hitch and if you were bad all that happened is she wouldn't let you restart her until she was cool again

I wouldn't leave the air box off just take the MAF out of the equation

also on the stock air intake coming from the front isn't very large I don't understand why the diagrams for new cold intake don't consider this leg of the venture first its proven that the only benefit from cold air is getting it a little more on those diameters and the vacuum switch and choke

a soon as I can afford it id look for more reasons this truck comes out of stock performance
the 66mm TB and MAF look inspirational but id be interested in the true pie formula and the stock ignition technicalities for telling the brain to advance with my android phone
 






ive noticed even better slow speed with MAF disconnected /air intake tube off

.. with bare TB and no MAF its like the truck wants to surge more with the fuel im sending it like it was tight again with compression ...still not positive at higher speeds could be just timing change advancing or going default from the ecm ?



I wouldn't leave the air box off just take the MAF out of the equation

also on the stock air intake coming from the front isn't very large I don't understand why the diagrams for new cold intake don't consider this leg of the venture first its proven that the only benefit from cold air is getting it a little more on those diameters and the vacuum switch and choke

a soon as I can afford it id look for more reasons this truck comes out of stock performance
the 66mm TB and MAF look inspirational but id be interested in the true pie formula and the stock ignition technicalities for telling the brain to advance with my android phone

The truck will run with out a MAF sensor, but the engine light comes on. and it will run kinda crappy.

you need to check to see if you have any codes in your computer and see what it tells you is the problem instead of throwing parts at it.

PERFORMANCE: if you want performance you have got to have some DEEEP pockets, the 4.0 IS NOT a powerhouse. It is a torquey engine. With all the parts that are out there, you MIGHT see 200 hp. 180 is more realistic. This is after you change a cam, heads, run premium fuel.... the list goes on. The ignition coil... isn't part of I gained 20hp by swapping in a coil.... this isn't a ricer, it is a family suv. It was designed to move family and cargo.

You want speed... invest in a 302, then go wild.

Back to reality... check the codes with key on and key off.... there's a post about it in the stock 91-94 section of how to do it if you don't know how. Then you should be able to track down the gremlin causing you issues.
 






thanks im getting familure with a car again last one I had was a 80 tbird with 302 I had two of em one in 89 and one in the 90s both 302 he ha detuned but draftable on the freeway ..had issues like most cars I changed everything electrical once to find out it was a hair line crack in the battery that was giving me the problem if the electrical system wasnt complete the car would choke

I know I need a muscle car but I just want to get rid of the bog it has so im working the parts im just hoping its not a gumed up intake manifold or exhaust good news is no black or white smoke


mabe its the cat because I noticed a pin of smoke coming off the exhaust manifold meets the y pipe when a ran some b12 down the intake and it stayed for awhile then disappeared looks like cat back was already done at some point I was thinking for a while I might need a new y and e manifolds



ive heard these run from old youtubers takin em out back and they sound great a little zippyer than 8 but more powerful than a i4 its exactly what I want I wish it was 10 years newer he ha

In 80 they came down from the first energy crisis the car lost a lot of weight that year and the pistons were detuned or concave the 302 could of had a lot more compression I guess they felt it didn't need it after loosing 1500 pounds of metal body ford is tuned like a warrenty but then there so smooth the motor stays in the engine compartment and you can drive it for 8 hours

not rollers not hydrolic lifters but compressed gas valve assemblies ? im waiting jerry sounds about right to me and just because they do dosnt mean it has to be 2 litre
 






I found the original air duct it runs to the out side like it should its not very bold but it does get there the vacume assisted temp /choke is there with a flexable hose to the outside of the exhaust manifold if I apply a vacume the valve opens and closes like it should and mostly open if I go to the top of the air box there is a valve there also the passages are tiny for the vacume lines im wondering about the effectiveness of this system and how to test that switch the experimenters have driven another hole
in the bottom of the air box but im thinking about modifying the front air dam to accommodate more air without really driving a hole might have to clean the air filter more often though but still like keeping the warmer valve operating
 



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Can anybody explain what you did with the vacuum lines that go into the stock airbox when you put an aftermarket filter on the truck? Just cut/plug them? what are they for?
 






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