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Lower Ball Joint Replacement How To (lots of Pictures)

For 10+yo salt belt cars.. I wonder how easy it is to remove the CV joint from the splines. It seems you would need a puller. Also, did anyone every find the ball joint hole to be corroded or damaged to the point where a new one can't be installed?

The ball joint holes are tapered (the ball joint makes contact along its full height) so it is very unlikely they would be severely damaged to the point they couldn't be used.
 



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Possibly a dumb a question, but how do you know if the lower ball joints need replacing? I can see that my upper ones do because the rubber part is torn, but the lowers don't seem as obvious to me.

Not a dumb question at all. This subject is near and dear to me! On my 1997Chevy Suburban I lost (big bang) one doing 75 mph just outside of downtown Los Angeles. I was almost a member if the roll over club in a 2wd suburban on a paved highway road @ 75mph!

Symptoms before blow out:
Looser than normal steering
"wandering" a little at highway speeds (went and got an alignment)
Unusual tire wear
135,000 miles!

Please, Please everyone Change them on ALL vehicles if you suspect them about to fail. Believe me at highway speeds and they fail, it was all I could do to not hit anything, then I was lucky to have no one hit me! Smoke, Sparkes, almost no control at 75 mph!

I was glad it was me in the car not my wife and kids! I WILL change them on all vehicles BEFORE 100K miles if not sooner!!!!

I will always replace them with zerk fitting ball joints, if you have an option, get the version with zerk fittings for both upper and lower joints and grease them regularly!!!!
 






Great illustrated write-up on changing lower ball joints. Definitely clear and to the point.
How would it differ with a Ranger being that the spindle is different, due to the fact that they have hubs. I know you remove the hub, and I know how those work. I had to replace mine. Is there a snap-ring or anything on the CV shaft?
 






Great illustrated write-up on changing lower ball joints. Definitely clear and to the point.
How would it differ with a Ranger being that the spindle is different, due to the fact that they have hubs. I know you remove the hub, and I know how those work. I had to replace mine. Is there a snap-ring or anything on the CV shaft?
What year of Ranger are you talking about???
 






Mine is a 98 Ranger with PVH hubs which I changed over to AVM brand manual hubs.
 






Great illustrated write-up on changing lower ball joints. Definitely clear and to the point.
How would it differ with a Ranger being that the spindle is different, due to the fact that they have hubs. I know you remove the hub, and I know how those work. I had to replace mine. Is there a snap-ring or anything on the CV shaft?
Yeah, well on the 2nd Gen Explorers the CV axle is held into the spindle/wheelbearing hub assembly using an axle nut.
 






Yes, they are. I've changed a bearing on ours already.
I'm just gonna hafta try and pop a hub and look. If you've ever removed one, you'll know they suck to remove. They have those finger tabs.
 






Great post, the video helped immensely!!! Wasn't afraid to use that hammer after that :) I now have a bad vibration in the front right after this and will post when I figure that out.

Problem with vibration was power steering pump. Hmmm..... Took it in cause I thought I really geebered something, they flushed out the old fluid and my problems are gone (for now :) )
 






For future reference: The power steering pump can be bled in your driveway. Remove the cap on the PS tank, jack the front tires off the ground, start the engine, turn the steering wheel nearly lock to lock a few times. Steering shudder gone.
 






A word of advice, the video is fine, but brute force on a front end is lazy mans way of doing a job. A hammer is used but not for the smacking you saw in the video. That's why the invented pullers.
 






Just FYI: Advance auto parts rented someone a very nice 25 piece ball joint set. The guy said they have special adapters in there to remove and install SUV ball joints.
 




































Replaced both lower ball joints at Christmas. Fantastic thread Evan. Moog is the way to go, use their parts on all my race cars. A few additional thoughts. My Ex has been a So Cal car since my girl friend bought it new. Rotors a true PITA to get off (see brake threads for ideas). Also steering knuckle (spindle) was frozen to one LBJ.

PB blaster is your friend. Give it plenty of soaking time and intermittent taps with hammer to loosen it. No real need for BFH, though out of impatience I did use one. Didn't really help. OK to hit control arms with it, but not knuckle IMO. I work slow and had to go get a couple sockets I didn't have in the middle of everthing, took me 8-10 hours. My axle nut was actually a 31 mm, used loctite blue on caliper bolts, stock tie rod castle nut required 13/16" deep well socket, ball joint castle nut 15/16", new Moog ball joint castle 1 1/16" and my ABS screws were 3/16" Allen. When the knuckle was stuck on the lower ball joint, I forgot I had a complete set of pickling forks and an air hammer in the corner. Go figure.

A few torque specs (generic) as published by Moog; LBJ castle nut 83-112 ft lbs at 83 turn just enough to place cotter pin never back it off, axle nut 254 ft lbs (get an extension), I've also seen axle nut specs to 300 ft lbs.

How did I know my LBJs were bad? Minor cupping on inside of both front tires. Looked underneath, both LBJ gaskets were torn. Posts 22 and 32 are both correct about how to check your ball joints but I've never been very good at it. By the time I can tell, they are long gone. Once I had mine out, one side was definitly bad, the other seemed OK but with the torn boot it wouldn't have lasted long.

The auto zone loaner ball joint press was great to remove them from the lower control arm but as stated earlier, too small to press them back in. The jack trick worked great. They do start at an angle because the largest ring hits a lip on the LCA but once under a little pressure a little tapping with a hammer and they tend to line up. Then just lift a little more and away they go.

Leveled the horse up with a little TT twist. The winch, mount and brush gaurd added almost 300 lbs to the front end. Got an alignment, it was all within factory specs already so added a camber adjuster kit and a little extra caster. Now 2 months and 6000 miles later, no unusual tire wear. Everything seems great.

Thanks again Evan for all your excellent work.
 






Good write-up. I'll add one thing. When you're pressing in the new LBJ, remove the gaskets until you have it in. Otherwise, you risk pinching or tearing the gasket. Just remember to put it back on before you put the spindle on.
 






anyone tried this kit??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-0...001QQitemZ110224562971QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I'm unbelievably strapped for cash and this gives me EVERYTHING in one package. It doesnt bother me if they last 100k miles but I have to get my 98 2wd mountie back on the road and this is the cheapest way to get EVERYTHING replaced I've seen so far.

ok, I got the kit today and its better than expected AND the seller has awesome communication. The parts look pretty damn good AND they have grease fittings on them as a bonus and are cheaper by $20 shipped than the other kit I was shown. so for $160 shipped from canada, I cant complain!!

I already have the lower balljoints and the swaybar joints installed....but I pretty much almost dont have a clue what the following parts are. I'm THINKING they may be the part that attaches to the tie-rod ends and goes up into the boot on the power steering rack but I'm not sure. This is my First time doing suspension components.

DSCN2686.JPG
 



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Hard to tell with the plastic on. Almost looks like CV joints. I think you're right though, probably inner tie rod end.
 






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