Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

Vehicle: 1992 forest green Ford Explorer 4X4

(<Frikin Sweet)

Drivetrain: '99 GT-40P 5.0(4.9)L 302----4R70W Automatic

Well i got my engine so i guess its time to start a project thread! The timeline on this is pretty loose. but as soon as possible cause the ole 4.0 is making wierd noises.

EDIT: DO NOT be STUPID like me! Don't get a 2wd drivetrain to go into a 4wd vehicle! The transmission output shaft length is different and will require a full trans teardown to retrofit. Luckily one of the other awesome members of the forum has the parts I need to convert. But you may not be so lucky. I doubt most junkyards would sell you Just the shaft and housing. Would rather you buy the whole transmission.

Plans:
Full teardown and rebuild
Keeping the gt-40's
New gaskets,pistons,cam,bearings,lifters, the works.
Maybe new crank
maybe strokin it
build for future forced induction
Transfer case: Hhhhhhmmmmmmm... maybe bw1354(dont wanna) or 4406 if i can fit it between the frame rails
plans will definitely evolve as we go along

here the pics

cant wait to get this thing runnin!

 

[seth247]

ill be keeping the old engine for my next exploder.

thats my first engine pull, so it took a while to finish teething.

 

[Willard]

Sweet! Good to see some progress on this build. I can't wait to see the finished product. Are you getting antsy yet? I wouldn't be able to sleep hardly getting this close to the end of something this exciting.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

When this is over want to come to Augusta, GA and do mine for me?

 

[seth247]

i will be too busy driving it!

 

[Sbyrne97]

This is awesome...

 

[seth247]

Ok, my 1356 has a bolt up front output. which is fine and dandy.

But its rear output is a slip yoke style. And my stock tcase uses a fixed flange on the rear.

Do i need a new driveshaft? what do i do?

 

[410Fortune]

1356?????????????????????

The 4406 us 5.0L dudes have swapped into our gen II's has a slip yoke style rear output, it works great! We use expedition rear driveshafts......

If you want to use the 1356 then get the rear d shaft from a 1356 equipped vehicle and modify it for your ex...

driveshafts should always be considered a part of a conversion, almost always they are the last thing to be built, because you have set our drivetrain location, ride height, and pinion angle, so youcan now measure and build a driveshaft.

Driveshafts are cheap and easy to have built, easy to customize from one t case to another axle, etc... yet people are always afraid of them and will go through great lengths not to have to modify them... over the years I have learned, screw that!! they are simple and cheap considerig your other options.

Slip yoke style works just fine

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, you may be lucky and find a driveshaft of the right length from another vehicle. It's simple enough to buy one which is long enough, and shorten it. I'd start by checking out the Explorer V8 rear shaft, that may be a good start. The same goes for the front shaft, find something at least close and make it work.

 

[410Fortune]

explorer rear d shaft does not use a slip style output????

I would get an F-150 shaft from the 1356 equipped truck, it will be plenty long enough and easy for a shop to shorten and it should already have the 8.8 flange you need on the axle side

So measure your putput shaft to pinion, then take the F-150 shaft to a local driveline shop, give them your measurement, have them rebuild it with new joints... and blamo 1-2 day turn around, under $200 total

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't know how long the 1356 is compared to the Explorer TC's used. That's why I posted, check the shaft of the V8 Explorers. Jamie has swapped a bunch more of this than I have, take his suggestion.

 

[seth247]

allright folks the old drivline is Gone!

tomorrow morning i will start banging on the firewall and hackin up the rad support.

 

[Spdrcer34]

Don't hack it up if you don't need to.

Have you pulled the Radius Arm Crossmember yet? Pulling it out does a couple things:

1) If it has the OEM Rivets currently, the RA bushings MAY have not been replaced yet. Replace them.

2) It makes it easier NEXT time they need to be replaced.

3) It makes for WAY more room to drop the motor in

4) The Engine & Trans can be installed as a unit. You can also add your Transfercase, but it makes for a heavy lift, which your cherry picker may not be rated for when it is extended all of the way out, to get the MAX lift for your motor to go up and over the Radiator Support.

Ryan

 

[seth247]

I remember we talked about where to get the speed signal for the new computer but i cant for the life of me remember what conclusions we came to...

rear ABS sensor?

 

[seth247]

Jaime, in another thread you posted this;

"you will also have wiring changes to make, there are wiring changes at the computer and transmission between 98 and 2000 (wires change positions at the computer from year to year)"

does this mean my 96 computer wont work with my 98ish harness?

 

[WickedWindsor]

When I got my stuff from Baumann Engineering, they told me that '97 was the transitional year for wiring. My '97 trans (4r70W) had one connector that was circa '96 and the other for '97. Weird!

 

[CDW6212R]

Jamie can be more specific, but I'd say try to keep the trans harness as a match for the PCM and trans used. In 1999 the trans harness changed to work with wiring changes inside the trans. Knowing what changes are there, you can swap wires around inside of connectors, and make any of it work. The key is the knowledge.

 

[seth247]

I should grab the speed signal from the rear abs sensor After it goes through the Rabs module correct?

 

[jakebrake]

if you are using the 1356 your vss from your 92 should plug right in then just tie that into the pcm for your new motor, right?

 

[seth247]

Second gen comps use a different signal.

The abs sensor creates a pulse signal which the abs module turns into a square wave which Is then sent to the computer.

I'm hopeing The first gen RABS module will send the same signal.

 

[jakebrake]

Thats discouraging because I was counting on that work myself. I guess if it dosent I also am swapping axles so I might as well just run it there.