How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[PRICELESS-EXP]

I completely re-built my transmission from the front to back with new bands, torque converter, fluid pump assembly, all new seals and valve body updates new separator plate with epc blow off removed. trans-go shift kit and sonnax kit.

Before my pump and front seal went out it always shifted perfect whether it was being driven easy or under full throttle. Once everything was rebuilt and back in the truck with new motorcraft mercron IV fluid. I began test driving it everything works great except now I have a 2-3 flare or skip between the gears. Which I never had before. I am kinda thining I should have left the valve body alone and just did the ford bolw off valve and nothing else to change the timing. My computer was down for a month and re-set before re-built tranny was installed. Has anyone had this issue after their rebuild with transgo. I am starting to think drilling a passage hole and the timing puck you tap in to the channel along with the other transgo stuff could have made my oem VB worse. Maybe not but before the updates it was great with 217K. But after research I decided to anything I could do to ensure it would last a long time.

I just wanted to see if there was anything I should try first. I have heard of some saying it wnet away after driving it for a while. I have only put 30 miles on it but I don't see it going away its the only problem everything else is perfect. Should I keep driving it to see if it clears. If I remove the fluid and drop the pan I will probably put a CVB valve body in there and be done with it hopefully.

 

[PopRichie77]

Did you install the aluminum orifice that goes in one of the servo ports and are you sure you put it in the right one? Call trango and tell them the problem and they may be able to help, they are very knowledgeable and have probably seen about ever install problem. I had a problem don't remember what it was with a transgo kit install, I called them and they told me exactly what I did wrong, fixed it and it shifted perfect.

 

[CDW6212R]

I completely re-built my transmission from the front to back with new bands, torque converter, fluid pump assembly, all new seals and valve body updates new separator plate with epc blow off removed. trans-go shift kit and sonnax kit.

Before my pump and front seal went out it always shifted perfect whether it was being driven easy or under full throttle. Once everything was rebuilt and back in the truck with new motorcraft mercron IV fluid. I began test driving it everything works great except now I have a 2-3 flare or skip between the gears. Which I never had before. I am kinda thining I should have left the valve body alone and just did the ford bolw off valve and nothing else to change the timing. My computer was down for a month and re-set before re-built tranny was installed. Has anyone had this issue after their rebuild with transgo. I am starting to think drilling a passage hole and the timing puck you tap in to the channel along with the other transgo stuff could have made my oem VB worse. Maybe not but before the updates it was great with 217K. But after research I decided to anything I could do to ensure it would last a long time.

I just wanted to see if there was anything I should try first. I have heard of some saying it wnet away after driving it for a while. I have only put 30 miles on it but I don't see it going away its the only problem everything else is perfect. Should I keep driving it to see if it clears. If I remove the fluid and drop the pan I will probably put a CVB valve body in there and be done with it hopefully.

My guess is that something isn't quite perfect with the VB changes etc, or there is an extra fluid pressure leak from the area known to blow out gaskets.

Check with the Sonnax website and find their TSB article about the gasket issue, and their new solution. Sonnax decided that the area has such deep passages that those thin aluminum walls are moving side to side with the pressure changes of the VB, exaggerated with VB mods and pressure increases. They detail how to install simple set screws between the walls, in the passages of the trans case, which locks them in place and stops the movements/leaks and blown gaskets. Those set screws are hard to find locally in the needed sizes, take your time with those.

 

[PRICELESS-EXP]

Yeah I put the little timing orfice in the correct hole. I called transgo twice during the rebuild very helpful guys. I think something on the VB is worn or maybe the gasket did get a leak but I doubt that. I layed it on the table with a light vasoline coating and torqued each bolt through the correct torques sequence and I went around 1-23 about 5 times to finally get them to the right torque. I was hoping it would clear up maybe the changes needed to be learned by the computer but I don't think it will work like that. Its not terrible just that one gear slips for a sec before it grabs its the same everytime like the timing is off. If I pull the VB down and check it out I will probably get one from CVB and be done with it. I probably wore something when I was cleaning and taking everything apart to clean in the VB.

Wanted to make sure that no one had issues for a few miles after rebuild before they cleared up.

 

[JK080]

You are right it is a timing issue the intermediate band can't come on fast enough before the overdrive band releases. I adjust these bands down to one turn out, I know others say different but I have done somewhere near a hundred of these, it worth a try before you replace the valve body.

Some other things I have run across is shift solenoid B, if it leaks the 1-2 shift valve cant move fast enough to stop a flare. Leaking from orings on the solenoid or if the solenoid is slow to work due to worn internals of the solenoid. Ohms out fine but mechanically clogged.

I have had to reflash the PCM also, the dealer should do this for you.

Clean the MAF sensor, the computer uses this information to determine line pressure and shift adapts. Look up how to do this, Google cleaning MAF sensors, if its done incorrectly you can damage the sensor. Do not use carb or brake cleaner.

Sonnax makes some good stuff for this valve body.

http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/37947-11K.pdf

http://www.sonnax.com/system/announcement/4R44E-5R55E-ZIP.pdf

I am not a fan of the transgo shift kit for this transmission. I don't use it at all.

 

[rjdelapp]

your throttle position sensor can cause flare as well. just a thought.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

Ok so spent the last day or so working on my v/b,went through it bore by bore using the info here,sonnax diagrams and the ATSG ,still no forward motion.Not sure what to do now,sent central v/b an e-mail to see if they'll ship to Canada, Have to leave town for a couple weeks for work and will decide if I'ma fix it or burn it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ok so spent the last day or so working on my v/b,went through it bore by bore using the info here,sonnax diagrams and the ATSG ,still no forward motion.Not sure what to do now,sent central v/b an e-mail to see if they'll ship to Canada, Have to leave town for a couple weeks for work and will decide if I'ma fix it or burn it.

It reads like you have done most of everything that is done normally. Do you by chance have any kind of straight edge to check the VB and trans case with? It is rare to find anything warped with those, but given what's been done, you might do that next. Repeating any steps would be the last thing to do, such as another VB.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

That could be a possiblity, not sure if I'm gonna put anymore time or $ into this truck,not really that fond of it anyhow but it is my only set of wheels. I could replace the trans with a used one and have issues or replace the v/b and still have issues.Decisions.

 

[JG88]

Great thread, thanks for all the useful input everyone!

I'm attempting to replace everything listed in the TSB on the first page on my 97. It seems like every website reports the updated separator plate (part no. F77Z-7A008-DB) as discontinued. Does anybody know if it's still possible to get this plate with the bonded gaskets, or if there is another update or interchangeable plate? If not, am I still able to use the updated blowoff valve with the old plate? It looks like fordparts.com has the plate available under part no. 7A008 but doesn't really include any description.

 

[PopRichie77]

You can use the old plate just don't remove the original blow off valve. The new one will be in addition to the old one. This valve does nothing to improve trans performance, it is a safety valve to blow off excess pressure in the even that the pressure goes to high.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

Ok ,so after around 4 weeks I'm back trying to figure out what has gone wrong with my trans,99 sport,4.0sohc,170.000 klms or just over 100.000miles.I started by installing a sonax zipkit,new seperator plate and the blowoff valve from ford to try and correct a very long delay going into drive,reverse works fine.After the first attempt it was'nt any better,maybe worse.So I removed the valve body and went through it bore by bore to see if I messed anything up,did'nt seem to find anything incorrect,was hoping to find a keeper in the wrong position.The truck refuses to move forward at all.
While I was away I described the symptons to two ford techs at different times and they each suggested the forward clutch was done and both were surprised it had that many k's on it befor it gave me trouble.
So I purchased a 4 foot length of hyd hose and 0_300psi liquid gauge and a few 1/8 npt fittings and took some reading.
At idle,p-120,r-120,n-120,d-65-70,2-60-65,160-65.
At fast idle about 1300rpm,p-125,r-off the scale,n-125,d-150,2-125,1-150.
I did not do a stall test and have not tested the epc port yet
The idle test shows low psi in forward gears and reverse and low 2nd at a fast idle.
Can any trans experts help to decipher these readings please.Should I remove and open up the trans or could it still be a v/b issue?Thanks Ken.

 

[kkjb4x4.0]

I forgot to mention there were no pieces in the pan when it was removed.

 

[BentFenders]

1998 ranger acting funny

Weird. 1998 Ranger goes when in any gear unless I turn the OD switch on. Then it is like putting the truck in neutral. Reverse seems to work. No codes or CEL flashing.
I adjusted the bands but that didn't fix it. Thinking it might be a servo. Anybody have any insights into this maybe? I am trying to figure out if it might be a servo, the valve body or the tranny guts so I can know where to start digging. Any help is appreciated.

 

[freerider]

Hi, first post. Huge thread, not sure how it will apply to my problem.

'02 Ranger, 4L, 5R55E tranny. It has a delayed shift from 1st to 2nd when cold. When the truck warms up, the problem goes away. New fluid and filter didn't help.

Is this a solenoid issue or would a new VB gasket fix it?

It ran perfect for 10 years (115k miles). Has been doing this for 3 months or so.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! It might have loose valve body bolts or the bands might be out of adjustment.

 

[freerider]

Welcome to this forum! It might have loose valve body bolts or the bands might be out of adjustment.

Thanks! Can the bands be adjusted without removing the tranny? I saw the following thread, but the tranny is definitely removed in the pictures.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158160

 

[BrooklynBay]

This procedure can be done with the transmission in the vehicle.

 

[freerider]

What do you think about a sticky solenoid? Seems like if the tranny is strong (not slipping) when it shifts, and that it works fine when it's warm, that it might be more likely to be a sticky solenoid. I'm having a tough time visualizing how the band would exhibit this delayed shifting behavior, because when it finally shifts into 2nd, its a good strong, but not harsh, shift. I would call it 'normal'.

 

[BrooklynBay]

A leaking servo or a loose band will slip. Metal, rubber & band material will expand when it gets hot, then have extra gripping force. Everything contracts when it cools down which will cause a wider gap with less gripping force.