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Explorer Audio upgrade(s)

Discussion in 'Modified 2011- 2019 Explorers - Tuning & Mods' started by deewan, March 10, 2012.

^^Searches ExplorerForum.com^^





  1. suzook

    suzook Active Member

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    You might be surprised how much a difference that center makes.
     
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  3. commoncents1

    commoncents1 New Member

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    i just picked up a new 2019 sport and the sound is not great. i didnt get the upgraded sony. So is the first step to replace the speakers? sounds like it makes a big improvement? then move to amp and sub if not satisfied?

    thanks!
     
  4. suzook

    suzook Active Member

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    I added cheapo pioneer speakers from crutchfield...made a dramatic difference. I also added an underseat pioneer sub. For $260 for everything , it was well worth it.
    And yeah, the stock Ford system blows. The stock system in my gm was WAY better. Ford needs to work on their tech.
     
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  5. commoncents1

    commoncents1 New Member

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    ah good to know, thanks! mine is a lease so dont want to put a lot of money into it, and will prob remove it at lease end.

    does the sub need a separate amp?
     
  6. suzook

    suzook Active Member

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  7. commoncents1

    commoncents1 New Member

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    are people replacing all speakers? which ones make a big difference? thanks!
     
  8. suzook

    suzook Active Member

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    I did all, because the speakers were cheap enough, and pretty easy to change. You probably could get away with leaving the rear door speakers.
     
  9. Explorer XLT 17

    Explorer XLT 17 Member

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    When you say "Replaced all" does that include the center dash speaker as well? And if so, how difficult was that one to replace? It is the only one I haven't replaced.
     
  10. suzook

    suzook Active Member

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    I did..it was easy. I had a 3 and half inch speaker laying around. It brought the sound a bit more forward, which is nice.
     
  11. Whey Cooler

    Whey Cooler New Member

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    I just started the upgrade with my new 2018 XLT non-Sony. It's a keeper so I'm putting a little more into it and taking my time. I put Focal 165 ISS components in the front doors and the Focal 165 "coaxial" in the rear doors. I have one Kenwood KSC SW11 installed temporarily for shakedown. I bought two, one for under each seat but want to make sure they are going to give enough low end. I will tie them both into one remote with a Y and 6 pin straight RJ11 cables if I keep them. I zeroed out the factory EQ curve with forscan and have the Apline KTP445 power brick 4 channel amp behind the stock HU. I have a PAC up there also.

    My question, does anyone know if the factory sub is prewired even if you do not have the factory sub option? I ask because I would love to ditch the PAC LOC and run everything line level. Right now I have the sub tapped in before the Alpine amp and it is line level. I plan to pull the rear wheel well trim out this weekend, but if someone knew off hand if it's prewired it would save a trip and I would get what I need now.

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: March 28, 2019
  12. Stephen Cannon

    Stephen Cannon Active Member

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    suzook said...……………………...

    +2 on the center dash speaker I did that replacement on two 2013 and one 2014 Taurus. I have not pulled the grille for this model but I am guessing and hoping it is the same layout.

    The trick for Taurus is at least but with my three way center dash speakers there is a little trick and "Gotcha" moment. The OEM center speak is flush with the top of the instrument panel. With the way I did it was remove the grille align the speaker but here is the "Gotcha" to get a proper seat and alignment with the speaker grille the new speaker will have to go UNDERNEATH the dash. The center voice coil on my Kicker 3 way sticks up too far and just far enough for the voice coil to interfere with a flush alignment of the grille.

    Fairly simple fix, for my modification it only required two slide/clip type anchor nut. Two screws for the thread pitch of the anchor nut and two metal washers. Simple version is remove the cover, remove the OEM speaker....BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL removing the OEM speaker to avoid tearing and other damage to the OEM wiring harness. (POS/NEG)

    NOTE: The below procedure applies to 3 way speakers with the center voice coil. I have not installed two way but I would think that the speaker grille would fit flush.

    Here is where it gets interesting.

    Place the new speaker align the mounting screw openings ABOVE the dashboard speaker base. Remove the OEM anchor nuts/clips, they should just pull out. Re insert the new anchor clips that were purchased. Insert one screw at least to avoid it falling through and try to insert cover and you will see what I am talking about. With the three way you have to do some minor trimming of the plastic base of the dashboard. By very minor I mean just that. The speaker WILL NOT fit underneath the grille without this trimming step. There should be a notch cut out in the speaker base. What you need to do is take the new speaker voice coil to face your body. Rotate the entire speaker assembly and rotate approximately 45 degrees to the RIGHT. The speaker alignment holes need to go underneath the instrument panel. After you do that the rest of the body of the speaker will be too wide to fit underneath the dash. That's where the slight trimming of the plastic comes in. The widest part of the speaker should rest on that notch that is already partially cut for you. Take a Dremel cut off wheel and VERY SLOWLY cut that notch at about 45 degrees until the widest part of the body fits underneath the plastic. CONNECT AND Protect the wiring harness and ensure the connection wont come loose, tape, solder, crimp whatever, you get the idea. Grab the left side alignment hole to guide in. Stop there!!! slide the speaker in and when the widest part clears rotate the speaker voice coil forward again so the voice coal is facing towards the windshield. Take one of the washers and slide it over the new mounting screws. Very gently grab the voice coil with your left thumb and fore finger. I am left hand dominant so that makes it a little easier. When the entire speaker is walked down and underneath the plastic rotate the voice coil to flat up and down. Voice coil should be facing the roof. Rotate the entire body approximately 45 degrees left and align the speaker mounting hole with the mounting hole of the anchor clip/anchor not. Slowly thread in the screw slowly at first and if done correctly the speaker mounting hole should raise and draw itself towards the anchor clip. Depending on how thick the head of the mounting screw will depend on what size washer to use. I might be overkill with the washer but not taking any chances. Align the mounting screw on the right side and repeat the step...draw the speaker towards the mounting hole from underneath and slowly tighten. That should be the end of it and try inserting the speaker grille/cover.

    One final step and totally optional was a gasket to fit around the perimeter of the speaker body. I used foam weather stripping but you get the idea.
     
  13. DMG632

    DMG632 Active Member

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    Even if your XLT has the factory sub wiring why not just upgrade it to a better & larger wire. When I did my 2016 Sport I upgraded all the factory wiring. Here's a link to my install.
    2016 Sport Audio up-grade (plus some)
     
  14. Whey Cooler

    Whey Cooler New Member

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    Mostly because I'm not that picky about all this stuff...I'm running self powered subs under the seats, if the wiring was there I would pull it forward. Also, I'm running self powered subs... :) I'm older now and balanced sound is all I need. I can't tell the difference in wiring. I do run heaver wires from the battery to the distro points though.
     
  15. DMG632

    DMG632 Active Member

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    If I remember correctly the sub wire was "loomed up" going behind the trim panels (passenger side) and would be a bigger pain than running new wires. OLDER; your never too old to enjoy good tunes...….. heck I'm almost 70 and enjoy my music even if I can't hear the highs as good as I use to.

    Good luck on your install
     
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  16. peterk9

    peterk9 Staff Member Moderator Elite Explorer

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    Not directly to the negative terminal battery I hope.

    Peter
     
  17. Whey Cooler

    Whey Cooler New Member

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    Oh nooooo... Grounds are the shortest run to solid that I can find/create. I say wires because I have two mains coming from the positive into the cabin. One for audio equipment and the other for an inverter.
     
  18. wharriso

    wharriso Elite Explorer

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    Yes, it makes no sense. My kid's 2008 Buick Lacrosse factory stereo sounds way better. Ford must have stock in Crutchfield.
     
  19. El_Chapo

    El_Chapo New Member

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    Hey guy . I jave a 2019 XLT 201a Package.

    U pulled the driver door pannel to see what the setup was like. The lower front door connector has 4 wires ran to it can someone explain why this is


    Im looking to install my jbl gx963's in the front and jbl club 6520 in the 2nd row doors
     
    Last edited: October 3, 2019
  20. El_Chapo

    El_Chapo New Member

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    See above post . Bump.
     
  21. wharriso

    wharriso Elite Explorer

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    Some speakers have dual inputs. My subwoofer in the back has 4 connectors because it is a dual speaker. In the front doors of my car I have a separate woofer and tweeter, so they take 4 wires in total. Take the speaker out and look at it, you should be able to figure it out. I took a look at the JBL GX963 on Crutchfield.com. It looks like that speaker is incompatable with your car. I takes 2 wires but if you look closely, there are really 4 wires combined into 2 with a crossover.
     

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