My new 347

Teaser pic. Should ship today.
More to come when I get my hands on it.

Where's that hard-on Smilie?

Professionally built stock bottom end by Ford Strokers 28oz imbalance crank
Wiseco pistons, shooting for around 9.6 to 1 comp.
gt40p heads ported (by Thumper) with 1.94/1.54 SS undercut valves and upgraded springs. Intake ports measured 140cc
Custom cam designed with my rear mount turbo in mind

28oz Damper DamperDudes.net (Americas Largest supplier of harmonic balancers)
28oz flex Plate 1830201 - Small Block Ford 289-351W 1963-1982, 28 oz Ext-bal, 164 Teeth
TCS Torque converter shooting for 2400 (1800 stock) stall. Single over-sized clutch for lockup to try to get that turbo spooling, and weight moving.
Trick Flow Track Heat intake
Scorpion Endurance Series Rocker Arms SCC-SCP3021BL
Rocker Arm Channel Kit M-6588-A50
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kit M-6529-A302
Head Dowels TFS-51400420
Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller Lifters 851-16
Pushrod Length Checker TFS-9000
Rocker Arm Pedestal Shim Kits M-6529-A302
water pump reverse rotation GMB-125-1960
Oil Pump Melling M68
ARP Head Studs @ 80lbs w moly
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft Kits 1 54-7904
ARP High Flexplate Bolt Kits 100-2901
PCV Valve EV127A
push rods: Chromoly, 5/16 in. Diameter, 6.250 in. Length, Ball/Ball Ends Comp Cams CCA-8400-16

gaskets:
header gasket remflex 3028 or Earls Pressure Master 29D03AERL
oil pan gasket Fel-Pro OS34508R
Head Gaskets Fel-Pro 9333PT1
lower intake: Fel-Pro FEL-1250s3
Oil Pan Gasket FEL-OS13260T
Bolt O ring oil filter adapter FOTZ6749B
Block O ring oil filter adapter F6TZ6L621AA edit: it was for too large of a circle. I had to cut it back and use ultrablack to ensure a seal.

Crank bearings....Very sad story on my new motor
695-MS590HX x 1 MAIN BEARING SET Standard Size
695-CB634P20 x 8 CONNECTING ROD BEARING 20 thou undersized for cut crank
edit...New cam synchro gear needed. Shaft size .531 Use a steel gear

edit:
moved to Twisted Wedge fac 170 heads
Pushrods: 5/16" with a length of 6.7"
Comp Ultra gold 1.6 rockers
Custom FTI cam
Morel link bar lifters
rollmaster timing set
Fel-Pro 1133SD4 MLS head gaskets

Strategy is REAC4A2 for Tuning

Siemens Deka 63lbs/hr EV6 Injector Part #108191
Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump, part #11542

 

[4pointslow]

why is the torque converter acting differently now?

 

[CDW6212R]

Good question, plus what was the stall speed supposed to be before, and now? Is it working at the stall speed it was made for? I wonder because the 2800rpm unit I have for my 347 may be wrong now for my NA only plans.

 

[Dono]

I can't really answer why the TC is acting differently. Now, say I'm stopped on a curb, and then need to lightly roll over it. The revs have to go up higher to get over that curb. It's acting exactly like a higher stall TC should now.

The target stall was 2400rpm. Its a hybrid unit with a smaller body on one side, and a larger side (That has the lockup clutch) grafted to it.

I'm starting to think that TCS loosened the TC a bit when they shortened the over all length by 1/16".

I'm extremely happy with the space now when I installed the motor. At least you could actually see that the TC would pull forward to the flex plate now when tightening the TC nuts. Before it looked like the TC would only pull forward only a hair or two.

The 2400 stall works extremely well with the lockup clutch. For a street vehicle, Id say its perfect. There is only the slight trade off from factory as I mentioned earlier. On the highway, the TC clutch is locked when cruising.

I need to install the brains to that knock sensor I installed sooner than later.

 

[Dono]

I half arsed installed my J&S Vampire last night. (hooked it up, but didn't mount the gauge or brain).

I went for a drive on the highway with the vacuum port not connected and set the sensitivity.
After setting sensitivity, I turned around and hit the gas. Probably not the smartest thing I've ever done, but inquiring minds needed to know.

I eased in to it till I was at full wot. At about 70mph there was a shift and the rear tires broke loose for a moment. Then, they boost gauge hit about 14lbs and the Vampire gauge lit up like a Christmas tree. I let off the gas as soon as possible. I was afraid, very afraid.

I could hear ticking under the hood. Of course, I feared the worst. Keep in mind with a turbo (Depending on size of the hot side) you build lots more exhaust back pressure. My turbo, being rear mount, is a T3 (small) hot side (This is for quick spool, and I don't want high boost since I have a stock block. Did I hurt my fresh motor? Did I take out a header gasket? Why did the boost suddenly spike? Did I set my boost controller Wrong? I thought I had backed it off so I was only on waste gate spring pressure (6 lbs).

So, back home I went with all this whirling thru my mind. I popped the hood, and a hose had pushed off the dpfe valve. No surprise, exhaust back pressure pushed off the hose.
I checked my boost controller, and it is backed right off. I disconnected it, just to be sure. I'm going to have to go back to the exhaust shop and have my waste gate plumbed differently, as it should be plenty big enough to handle the extra exhaust to keep the turbo from creating too much boost for my application.

The exhaust back at the turbo (Where the waste gate is) is a 3" pipe. I just ordered a v-band clamp and flanges. This way, when the exhaust gets cut to do the waste gate, the v-band clamp can be added. No more cutting next time.

I need to get this waste gate thing sorted out before any more WOT testing so I can control boost.

 

[4pointslow]

Is your waste gate bad/defective or did you have one that could handle more exhaust volume?

 

[Dono]

I had one that was too small.
So, I purchased a bigger one.

The exhaust shop just slid the new, larger pipe for the waste gate over the original, smaller one. I'm 99% sure this is the problem. The exhaust hole getting to the waste gate is too small.

Either that, or the waste gate pipe needs to be angled a bit so it takes the exhaust flow better instead of being a T to the main exhaust pipe. I hope that makes sense.

I sure wish I had the appropriate welding equipment and could weld. I was a bit upset when they just welded over the existing pipe and assured me it would work. The exhaust pipe needs to be cut out and the waste gate exhaust hole needs to be full size.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

broke em at 70 eh?
hit 14lbs of boost eh?
i am going to need a larger blower now so at least if we line up, we will be in the same area code when you cross the finish line......

 

[CDW6212R]

I've spun tires going into 3rd gear, once, and that was on a narrow road that wasn't quite dry. Avoid spinning tires at speed, I've got the death pictures of my first Lincoln to show for it.

 

[Dono]

Too much boost can be a very bad thing. 91 octane gas and no water/meth. Very bad.

Tonight I started looking things over.
The dip switches were set wrong, they were set for a 4 cylinder. I must have been looking at the box upside down.

Ok, so time to slow down and confirm things.
I removed vacuum, and brought the revs above 1800 (Lass than 5lbs vacuum (More vacuum) and less than 1750 rpm the knock retard is disabled). I then set for maximum retard on all cylinders (Dip sw 1 and 2, along with sensitivity control). I then tapped on the knock sensor with a screw driver. Yup, rpm's dropped confirming the timing was being retarded.

Keeping in mind the gauge does not light up at all when cruising, I mounted the gauge on the pillar. ****ty pic, but you get the idea.

 

[4pointslow]

Make sure you are not using those crimp connectors to wire it in, they fail as we all know.
Make sure it is soldered in, or engine failure could happen if you are relying on the vampire and it cant do it's job due to faulty connections.

Also, back pressure should not be more than 8 psi according to some Ford literature.
Keep in mind that the DPFE system can not handle more than that. That's why hoses blow off.
If that hose did not blow off it probably would have blown exhaust gases right through the DPFE sensor or even melt through the EGR valve.
These things do happen when cats clog and back pressure gets way too high, so if a custom turbo application causes high back pressure than same things can happen.
I have several pass around parts at work that have been melted and blown through including many DPFE sensors and a couple EGR valves.
I would love to know where your back pressure is when you get the boost under control.

 

[Dono]

I'll have to work on the measuring back pressure.
I will have an issue with dpfe and turbo.

I understand that if your really doing well, pressure is 1:1. That would mean in a perfect world I'd have 8lbs back pressure at 8lbs boost. I'm pretty confident I'm not going to be 1:1. lol.

Thanks for reminding me on the crimp connectors. Yes, I used them. Proof of concept. I need to order weather pack connector(s). My plan is to solder in to the coil wires and power, and add a weather pack connector.

I haven't hooked up the vacuum yet. I'll try to get that done tonight.
Driving to work this morning, I may have to do some work with the shift schedule. Looks like a bit of 'lugging' going on. Needs to shift out of 3rd, and unlock the tc faster.

 

[Dono]

Motor's still running strong. No leaks, no bad noises. WTF? lol.
I wen't to our annual Country Fest, so its about a 7 hour round trip. Slept in the back of the old girl again, and its actually pretty comfortable with memory foam. The 2 for 1 Canadian beer might have had something to do with that though.

Strange thing is, I had a really stinky exhaust that would always come thru the windows and sun roof when open. Windows and roof closed, no smell. That's no fun at all though. After the trip, its virtually gone. I wonder if something was just slowly burning off. I'm super happy that I don't have any smells (I was also fighting the cheap wire loom and electrical tape melting and stinking, and thats all been removed now).

Boost creep is fixed. Solid 6-7 lbs boost that comes on quick. Punching the peddle at about 50mph is an eye opener.

After a pass I did today, the guy caught up to me and asked me to do it again while he video'd it with his phone. He said he's never seen or heard anything like it and really wanted his friends to see it. I'd say that's a compliment.

My timing is kinda low up top so I can't even think about adding boost till I install my water/meth kit. 91 octane isn't the best for this stuff. I'm not sure when I'll get at it, since the weekends are pretty full now. I'll try to pick at it, bit by bit.

Its sure nice to finally be having some fun with my truck rather than fighting serious issues all the time.

 

[CDW6212R]

Fingers crossed, enjoy!

 

[Turdle]

I'm feeling good to read that post Don. Thanks for updating.

 

[4pointslow]

Glad to hear that you overcame all the obstacles that came your way.
Now enjoy the benefits of all your hard work!
You should have asked the guy for link to the video, its not everyday you get to see your truck from the outside. lol.

 

[Josh P]

Glad to hear she is running good now. May the boost be with you!!!!

 

[Dono]

And, for your Viewing pleasure.....The header on the other side (driver) cracked.
Now, I do want to say I think my exhaust isn't lining up to the header collectors properly, and I believe that this stress is causing my header cracks. Once the header is replaced I'll make that a top priority to fix.

I have emailed Robert to see what he can do. I really doubt he'd be to keen on selling 1 header.

 

[Dono]

Where's the 'That was easy' button?
One touch paypal transaction, and Robert will ship the headers on Monday.
Now, its off to the couch with a good stiff drink to drop back and assume the fetal position.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

both sides, or just the one header?

 

[Dono]

Whole shebang.
I think I might even look at getting the other one fixed and keep them as spares. I'll kinda know the answer to that depending on how comfortable I am with the results of getting the exhaust aligned better.
Once the other one is out, I'll see what my welder guy has to say.