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Door removal(second gen)...write up

SkanlaxJMO

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 30, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Syracuse, New York
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 XLT
Ok i have become jealous of those heeps you see driving around with no doors. So i figured i would take them off. With the help of mynameisaric i got them off and he did as well.

Tools
1: 10mm socket
2:13mm socket(9/16ths will also work)
3:ratchet
4:Flathead
5:needle nose plyers
6:jack
7:towels(to prevent the doors from being scrathed).

REMOVAL
1:disconnected the drivers side harness. It is that black box that is in between the body and the door. Take the 10mm socket and loosen the bolt on the top. Then after it is very loose pull the bottom of the harness and it will slide out.
SkanlaxJMO1.jpg


SkanlaxJMO2.jpg


Now for the hinge itself.
2: USe the 13mm socket to loosen the top bolt(DO NOT REMOVE IT)
3: then take out the others except for the bottom bolt. Loosen this one also. Then make sure the jack is under the door and then take out the top bolt. make sure you keep pressure on the top while you take out the bottom bolt.
Now take away the door and you are left with this.
SkanlaxJMO3.jpg


Passengers side
the harnesses for the door are behind the kick panel on the right side of the passengers foot well. Remove this trim piece by pullin up on the door sill one and jimmying this one out from both above and bellow. then you will see two harness wrapped in a foam type substance take this off and then you will see two harness that kinda look like radio harness. Use the Flathead screw driver to depress the tab and then pull the harness apart.
SkanlaxJMO4.jpg

Then pry the rubber hose from the body on the door and pull the harness through the body. Remove the hindge bolts and done on the drivers side and you have NO DORRS.
Hindge
SkanlaxJMO5.jpg


No doors
SkanlaxJMO6.jpg


Alright now replacement.
start with the drivers side. Use a jack to support the door on the front. Then use something to support the rear of the door i used some porch furniture and then my shackles that i haven't put on yet. Then put the bottom bolt in and tighten it(not all the way). Then put in the top bolt and tighten it the same amount. Then replace the other bolts and cinch them down. Make sure you do the bolts before the harness or you will never get it tighten again. Then fore the harness. Shove the bottom into the top and tighten it. It take alot time for it to catch because it is a fine thread. You can see the bottom part slowly move into the top.

Passengers side.
For the harnesses poke then through the gap in the body and use needle nose pliers to grab them and fish them through. I found it helps to do the black one first because the wires on the grey harness are longer. Then reconnect them and then replace the door in the same way as the drivers side.
 

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WOw what happened to those images :D
 






i have no idea...ifran view fawked them up
 






another little note. It took me 20 minutes to get them both off. It then took me 2 hours to get them back on. I did it all by myelsf. I sudjest you have someone to help you with this.
 






What I do is this and it works on 90% of the doors out there.
Roll the window all the way down.
Remove the bottom three bolts, crack the top one.
stick your arm out the window, resting your elbow on the out side near bottom endge of the window opening. Where ever comfortable grab the top of the door. Stick your leg out so it is just under the door, but you can still stand and put weight on it.
Use your elbow to steady the door against your leg and hip. Lift gently ( you might need to jiggle the door a bit ) remove the top bolt. The door will be surprisningly easy to control like this. Once the top bolt is out you, just stand up straight and walk away with the door.
 






thats kool but i'd wana make some kind of half tubeular door that i can switch from stock to that depending on weather
 












ah thank you froader....wtf did you doxplorsport01...having no doors from when i first did it i though its OK....then it really grew on me...10 minutes later i thouhgt this is friggin awesome...
 












SkanlaxJMO, i apreciate the write up. while it isnt eactly the same as my 1st gens, but you fueld my having ther courage to get all four of them off of my truck tonight, as well as the hatch, and atleast gave me a place to start, since the chiltons manual dosnt have all that much on the subject. im not gonna clutter your thread with pics but heres a link to proof. http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a93/SuRrEaLNJ/DSC01561.jpg
oh, and b4 anyone asks i will be replacing them with beter condition doors from another x
 






thats sweet looking. For the rear doors of the second gen im almost postive its the same as the passanger side door for the wirring and it is still four bolts......
DSC01561.jpg
 






Thanks man.

The conectors on the wireing harnesses are different, but the procedure is the same between the 2 generations. on all 4 doors you have a conector to undo (2 on the drivers side front on the 91) and 4 bolts.

the rear hatch aint to bad either. thers 3 conctions, 2 electrical and 1 for the washer hose, on the inside in the headliner, and then 4 bolts holding that on
 






thats good to know...i dont think ill ever take off my rear hatch though....also im using one of the bolts as a ground for my roof lights....lol
 






xplrsport01 said:
thats kool but i'd wana make some kind of half tubeular door that i can switch from stock to that depending on weather
i was thinkin about this and was thinkin that you could go to a junk yard and get some doors of another explorer and use a sawzall to cut them down to the way you like them
 






true....im am really a fan of whelling with no doors its alot easier to see......i just go around the mud pits or put them back on for the mud.....
 






well I Did it again......my seats got covered in mud from going through mud pits but it was worth it.....a little tip to getting it alighned properly is to just put the bolts in semi tight then close the door re-open it and tighen them all down this worked for me for re-aligning the doors. Seing as the part that the bolt goes into is a slide.
 






if i were to take my doors off is there one major plug for the locks, windows, and stereo..there is a black box right near the hinges is that the clip that connects them all
 






Does anyone have pics of a lifted 2nd gen with all 4 doors removed?
 









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now, i assume the procedure for rear doors remains the same. and to realign the doors, what needs to be done with that, tighten all the bolts up and its good or mess with it until its right?
 






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