School me on Fox Shocks....

[410Fortune]

sounds like a crap shoot, I would want to return all 4 defective shocks, if you recall a product you dont just recall the faulty ones, you recall all of the ones that were built that way.

Before you install your new ones make sure there isnt something funky going on with your shock setup, no binding, twisting, etc

 

[Stic-o]

Before you install your new ones make sure there isnt something funky going on with your shock setup, no binding, twisting, etc

Well that's what me going on. On the rear I have the shocks on the outside of the frame, and at full articulation, the tires rub on them. Not alot, just taking the paint off, but it could be posing a problem. I mite have to go ahead and cut into the cargo area inside the truck to get it to work right

 

[IZwack]

Tires rubbing on them means theres unusual laterall forces on the shock body and the shaft -- which might mean the seals are being forced to elongiate.

 

[410Fortune]

cut that sum *****!! I would rather cut some sheetmetal, make a new mount, then have the shocks not working correctly during the full travel cycle.

 

[Stic-o]

Tires rubbing on them means theres unusual laterall forces on the shock body and the shaft -- which might mean the seals are being forced to elongiate.

They only rub at full compresion. Originally the shock would go about a inch into the tire when stuffed. Being aired down the tire just went around the shock, we then moved one of the mounts, but I guess not enough

 

[410Fortune]

lower your bumps (or are they built in?)

 

[Stic-o]

lower your bumps (or are they built in?)

Ahhhh they are built in, and it compress them all the way.

 

[IZwack]

yeah looks like youre going to need to cut the mount and reduce the angle that the mount juts out from the chassis. You've got plenty of room between the shock and the chassis so I don't think an inch less is going to be a problem at all.

 

[410Fortune]

You may not have to cut much, geesh looks like moving it in 1-2" would fix the tire rub.
Do you have a side shot with no tire?

Did you buy all 4 shocks at the same time and are they the same model?
If so this tells us your rear seals, even without the recall are likely being abused. I went through 2 rancho 9000's before I finally re-located my shock mount (bronco II is one in front one in back), leaky shaft syndrome
It just didnt cycle smooth where we originally welded it when I did my 8.8 spring over, it tore the shocks up.
I imagine a tire pressing on the side of a shock can mess some &*it up

How does it drive when they are working?

 

[FROADER]

before:

after...?

 

[DB_1]

Not sure I understand the different valving for leafs and coils. I thought shocks were valved for springs rates regardless of spring style...but then again, I'm no expert.

What about making a different, lower mount that angled in toward the frame more. Now that would mean running a shorter shock but would it be that bad?

 

[IZwack]

What about making a different, lower mount that angled in toward the frame more. Now that would mean running a shorter shock but would it be that bad?

Not sure that would help much as the tire rubs not at the bottom of the shock, but at the top -- so I guess moving the shock mounting point in would be more effective.

 

[Stic-o]

Ok let me help here some.

We had already adjusted the one side before that picture above was the begining. So I just went down and took some other pictures.

Driver Side

Passenger Side

Ok so we moved the driver side at the axle in, but it didn't fix the problem. The passenger side tire rubs alot less then the driver. I hust need to move the top in, then we should be good. The shocks now rub about 1" or 2" below the top of the body of the shock

to answer Dave's question about the valveing, I would say on a normal shock there is no difference...but on these they are valved for coil or leaf. you acually need to tell them which ones you need and they are stamped on the shocks (L or C) There is a huge difference! One set of them was about 3x stiffer, we had alot of trouble getting them on. I can't remember which one were the really stiff one though.

and Jamie...It drives Awesome! It's great on the street, I throw it around on the street with no probelms ..but I'm sure the full width helps.

 

[DB_1]

Not sure that would help much as the tire rubs not at the bottom of the shock, but at the top -- so I guess moving the shock mounting point in would be more effective.

Sorry I wasn't more clear in my post...what I was trying to say was to lower the upper mount or make a new one that wasn't quite as high.

I know what you are saying Steve but I still say their logic behind the valving is a little generic. I mean take a coil or a leaf pack from a full sized vehicle and its gonna be way different than a set of springs off of a jeep. Heck take a vehicle that has leafs springs front and rear and they are gonna have different rates...see what I'm getting at?

 

[Stic-o]

Guess what I just ordered

4 of them on the way

 

[IZwack]

Woot!! Welcome to the Blue

 

[Stic-o]

Well, I ordered them from Poly, and then they called to say they are out of stock on them, and not when they will have more.

I'm working on another source...localy. We'll see.

 

[DB_1]

They must have run out replacing all those BBCS shocks:

 

[Stic-o]

Front Fox's are on, working on the backs right now. The driver rear BBCS is bent for sure!:thumbdwn: The pass looks ok. but still leaking. I drove with fronts on they are smoother. However I can positive they will bottom out rock crawling. I hit some hard dips at about 40-45 and there was maybe only two lnchs left of the shaft. did not bottom out though.

 

[Stic-o]

New Shocks On You'll also notice I lowered the bumpstops

Before/After

Left

Right