How to: - Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor | Page 12 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Rebuild 4X4 Shift Motor

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
...a quick summary, never drive in 4x4 on solid ground...this will break alot of stuff...tapping on the motor i believe there is also some warnings about that as you can actually pop the inerds loose and cause more problems...as for disconecting the battery, you should always disconnect the negative cable...i myself just start at the negative and also pull the positive...
...i say this only to help you out and in the nicest way, i would read thru all the post in the thread as this information is invaluable and your answers are right there...you might want to take the time to print out all the post in this thread so you can read as you are working on it....good luck...:D
 



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Happy Camper!

Worked like magic! Bought the truck for $100 with the seller assuming the transfer case was shot. Lucky me, all it cost was a foot of fuel line to hack off a piece.

Tips, you can do this in a half hour just driving the stock truck up on a a few 2x6's. I did the whole job under the car and found no need to cut/remove the brown wire or sensor or damper.

Tips:

  • Pick up the security torx from a True Value, you can buy just the T20 for $1.39
  • I second trying to shift the motor while it is off the case, to set it in the right position for assemby (and so you know it works!)
  • Every other good tip is above!

I was unable to yank the gear out without taking off the assembly how ever, it is on there pretty good.

Thanks guys, lets hope this truck stays running great! :)
 






just stumbled onto this site and need help.

I currently own a 2003 XLT 4.6l with 81k miles. I just blew $800 on new BFG rugged trails and new pads all the way around and new rotors on the rear. I get the suv home and now have transfer case problems.

Here's what it does.

Drive it up to a min of 30mph let off the gas and I hear a whine (wah wah wha) Put it neutral, same thing. It continues at whatever speed as long as its over 30mph. But only when I let off and coast.

So I changed the fluid in the transfer case , praying that that's all it was but unfortunately it continues.

Then I get home jack it up AGAIN and disconect the big black plug on the transfer case and WA-LA no more whine. I was just trying to eliminate the problem and I think I found it.

History of the vehicle:
I bought it with 10k
At 25k took it to a certain Ford dealer for warrenty work on the "What I thought was something in the rear end. But they said no they replaced the transfer case. I get it home and its doing the same thing with the rear end( felt like the rear brakes were binding up) So I call the largest dealer in Ohio and the said it was the clutch paks in the rear end!!! I thought I was right and I was. So I take it to Ricart Ford and they said the"other" dealer should have seen the tsb and should not have replaced a perfectly fine transfer case.
It now has 81k and needs transfer case work.


How much is it going to cost me to fix it or should I just go trade it on a supercrew F150?
I just looked over one of the tear down posts and don't really have that kind of time to rebuild it myself. So what kind of figure am I looking at??


Sorry this post was sooooo loooong!!!

Any ideas?????
 






Not sure if this has been discussed in the thread yet, but Does anyone know where I can get the small bushing in the shift moter that wraps around the small screw on the gear? Mine crumbled into a hundred pieces and now it won't shift. Part number would be helpful too. Thanks
 






..the standard fix for this is, you ready for this??? a 1/2" of vacuum hose or fuel line as mentioned above in post 222...really, it's noted in this thread....;)
 






Ahh ok. I had a feeling it was noted on this thread somewere. I just have to much homework to waste time reading a 12 page thread:)
 






...lol, i know the feeling but this is a must read thread before taking on the project....it has alot of hints and don't do's in it...good luck...:D
 






Yea It starts with a great write up. I would spend more time educating myself, but I have a manual shift tcase waiting to be thrown in. I am planning on running a 1350/1354 doubler with the D&D Machine kit
 






...show off, lol....j/k....:D
 






Bushing

Not sure if this has been discussed in the thread yet, but Does anyone know where I can get the small bushing in the shift moter that wraps around the small screw on the gear? Mine crumbled into a hundred pieces and now it won't shift. Part number would be helpful too. Thanks

Yes, just use a short piece of 1/4 inch i.d. fuel line or plastic tubing. That's what everyone does and it works! Be sure that you put the gear cover (with the contacts) on in exactly the same position or the shift motor won't know its position.

Bob
 






quick fix

If your relay is clicking when you push the 4X4 button and the transfer case does not engage, the problem is most likely the bushing on the positioning stud. I took off the alignment cover (don't forget to make an alignment mark first!), pulled the gear, and found the bushing on mine in a dozen pieces. I replaced it with a piece that I cut off of a fuel line that I had around, and put it back together. Has shifted flawlessly since then. The whole fix took me about 1/2 hour including jacking & supporting the vehicle, and pulling the counterweight and shift motor. Looking back, it could have been accomplished in place without pulling the counterweight or shift motor in about 15 minutes or less. If you suspect that this is your problem, I would try just replacing the bushing in place first. If that doesn't do it, then you can do the complete rebuild and you only took a few extra minutes on the chance of saving a couple of hours!
 












Stuck in 4L

Hi, new here and new to 4x4 stuff. I'm changing over the old Borg Warner Transfer Case and replacing it with a after market one. My 4x4 is stuck in 4L but needs to be in 2H to connect of course. So how do I do that?

Brain's post is awsome!
Brain says here: "If worse comes to worse and you are in a tight spot, you can turn this selector with pliers as you can feel the stops (it sets into place with a springy clunk)."

I can't get it to move counter clockwise like I need it to. I'm starting to round off the corners to I stopped. It's Saturday afternoon now, I need this to get to work Monday morning! Any help would be great!

Digitup
 






Hi, new here and new to 4x4 stuff. I'm changing over the old Borg Warner Transfer Case and replacing it with a after market one. My 4x4 is stuck in 4L but needs to be in 2H to connect of course. So how do I do that?

Brain's post is awsome!
Brain says here: "If worse comes to worse and you are in a tight spot, you can turn this selector with pliers as you can feel the stops (it sets into place with a springy clunk)."

I can't get it to move counter clockwise like I need it to. I'm starting to round off the corners to I stopped. It's Saturday afternoon now, I need this to get to work Monday morning! Any help would be great!

Digitup

:nono: You are turning the selector shaft the wrong way! The selector shaft only turns counter clockwise until it hits 4L.. At this point you would rotate the shaft CLOCKWISE to 4H and then back to 2H..

27133Tcase02.jpg
 






Wow...nice fix instructions! I'll check it out on my '91 when I have time (and a warm garage). I'll keep y'all updated with how it goes.
 






This is a great write up on how to fix your 4x4 shift motor. I thought my 4x4 was working fine until the snow started to fall on Friday night leaving us with 8 inches on the ground. I went to use the truck and my lights on the dash would not illuminate and the four wheel drive would not kick in.

I went through the forum and found this link, which led my right to the source of my problem. I worked under the truck yesterday and was able to make the repair with a small piece of hose, that I actually cut off of my coolant overflow tank.

I couldn't be happier. The repair only cost me my time, since I already had the tools. My four wheel drive has never operated more smoothly. I have been having intermittent problems with it over the past 6 months, but it always kicked in after numerous times of depressing the button. Now it works slick as a whistle and it should last until I replace the truck.

Thanks to the forum for such useful information. I find myself constantly making repairs to my 91 Ranger and it would have cost me a small fortune if I had to take it to a shop everytime.
 






torx 20

where have you guys foun the torx 20 bit with the cut out in it

i havent been able to find it

thanks
 






where have you guys foun the torx 20 bit with the cut out in it

i havent been able to find it

thanks

It is a security torx 20 bit.. You can find them at Sears...
 






ok... when i went to sears i picked up a set but got home and realized that i was ignorant and didnt get the right thing

thanks
 



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thx for this thread, need a little help

i managed to remove the 4 bolts in place in the buffalonian cold, (15 mins at a time outside). i have a 2001 ex sport and its just weird i don't seem to have any wires attached to the transfer case, all come nicely from a socket. I don't even see that sensor there. Should i be worried?

Also after removing the 4 bolts. The whole motor assemble is still stuck hard to the transfer case. Any detailed idea how i can remove this, i tried prying gently at the rubber seal but does not help. Do i have to pull the motor outward thx
 






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