The Black Hole

[gmanpaint]

I am deff taking it in to a shop for the install. Gears and master kits are to much $$ to try to do it on my own. Going to purchase one thing at a time, until I have everything I need.

 

[gmanpaint]

Another Saturday and another post.

I have ran into a limiting factor this week. NO MONEY!! LOl.!!

Since the rear springs have started failing, (lost the lift arch) I replaced the war153 shackles. It is back to the height I like it at. When I get the fundage, the leafs will go back to the shop and a custom leaf will be added.

Measuring from center of axles to the fender lip, the height is:
Front--39"
Rear---40"

Height for the sliders are at 18"

The shock skid plates are on the way, they will raise the lower shock mounts 3".

I finally got the 10" brake line extension and the coupler for the rear line. Installing that tomorrow.

Applied the EF decal on the rear window, and 2 more small decals on the rear side glass.


Pics in a bit.

 

[gmanpaint]

Edit: More Photobucket carnage....Sorry.

Trim & bumper paint to black
You can see the steel roof rack/light bars installed now.
War153 back on

 

[gmanpaint]

Another weekend and another update!

I ordered a set of custom Shock/u-bolt skids from Brian1 last week, and got around to installing them today. They are heavy duty 1/4" steel with shock mounts that raise the bottom of the shock by 3". No more hitting the shocks! I dont have to worry about ripping of my adjuster knob on the new Rancho's.
Removed the sway bar as well. I got PB blaster all over everything in the process.
I had to take a break, so I took these pics and posted. Going back out in a few to finish up putting it all back together. The heat & humidity today is unbearable.

I wanted to see if i could use the rock sliders as a good place for the jack stands, they held perfect.

Next thing I have on the list is a set of T-bars from a Sport Trac. Mine have the rubber pc attached to the keys on the bars, the newer ones don't have anything on them. Idea time!! Going to buy some silicone spatula's, cut off the ends, and place them on the keys, yeah baby!

More to come!

 

[cybergasm]

The heat & humidity today is unbearable.

yup you're right it did suck when i passed through there this weekend. Friday to be more specific

 

[CDW6212R]

...Next thing I have on the list is a set of T-bars from a Sport Trac. Mine have the rubber pc attached to the keys on the bars, the newer ones don't have anything on them. Idea time!! Going to buy some silicone spatula's, cut off the ends, and place them on the keys, yeah baby!
...

If you are keeping the torsion bars, then why not replace the frame piece of your 95-97 part? Cut the frame pocket from a 98+ truck being parted out, and weld that on. The isolator piece that goes inside it is replaceable. Then you don't need the kevlar wear pad. It's looking good, keep at it.

 

[Glen4X4]

Nice work, looks great.

 

[gmanpaint]

If you are keeping the torsion bars, then why not replace the frame piece of your 95-97 part? Cut the frame pocket from a 98+ truck being parted out, and weld that on. The isolator piece that goes inside it is replaceable. Then you don't need the kevlar wear pad. It's looking good, keep at it.

That sounds good, but this rig is not going to be a full time off road rig.

Doing things as I can afford them, (which is never), but I don't think I have done too bad in the time I have owned this rig. I never wanted a full time off road rig with this EX, just like 50/50, as I want to take this rig on road trips. I think I have accomplished that already, just making it a little better here and there.

A full time crawler will most likely happen in the future. It will most likely be a 1st gen, and since I own a 94 XLT already, it might happen to it sooner than later.

 

[crazyflights]

Looking good!

 

[CDW6212R]

I suggested the frame modification to get rid of the kevlar padded keys. You have to replace them when they wear out, which actually isn't that bad to do. The later keys are maybe $100 for a pair, I don't know what the 95-97 keys would cost.

 

[gmanpaint]

I suggested the frame modification to get rid of the kevlar padded keys. You have to replace them when they wear out, which actually isn't that bad to do. The later keys are maybe $100 for a pair, I don't know what the 95-97 keys would cost.

Thanks for the tip Don. Since I am replacing them with a free set of T-bars, I am going to try a homemade idea first. If it works, thats the end of it, if it dont, I would probably get new keys with the pads on them already. Welding is like doing plumbing in the house to me...cant do it, dont want to do it, and I avoid it like the plague. LOL..

If I need something welded, I am at the mercy of a welding shop, a welder moonlighting, or a friend that can do it for me.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's why I've never mentioned it before, I would have to have it done for me. I have a cheap small welder, but I'm a very green novice. I'd need to practice to work my way up to poor.

 

[crazyflights]

I can weld a little. But that doesnt help you any. Maybe someday you can do a SAS?

 

[gmanpaint]

SAS & SOA......Someday! That would mean 35's or bigger. That will be costly.

Thinking of playing the daily pick 4 lottery, and saving $2 a day as well. LOL.! Could have the $$ in about 3 yrs, or less if I hit the lottery.

 

[dkchrist]

How is the gear situation going? Will you have them in by CO?

 

[gmanpaint]

How is the gear situation going? Will you have them in by CO?

I'm trying!

I got all the gears and kits on order. Have to save up for install now.

 

[dkchrist]

Awesome great to hear. Bring'em to humbolt when I get the bumper coated and we'll put'em in. (Probably should ask Turdle first). But If we had a weekend, and a place to do it. I got the tools and have done a few (5 or so).

But the drive home would suck 45 or slower. 10 min cool down... 10 min cool down... 20 min cool down and so on for 500 miles (that is how long it takes to break them in)

Good Luck w/ everything and I hope to see some 4.56's in CO

 

[inh]

Never heard of rear end gears requiring a break in...

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, dang!

How long can I drive on them b/4 having to let them cool off?

Sounds like an awesome idea, and would save me some much needed cash towards the CCR trip, but...That would be up to Jon and you. I wouldnt mind the trip home if I could at least drive an hour at a time. Side roads all the way home from Jon's .

 

[Burns]

1. Insure that the axle has been filled to the correct level with proper hypoid lubricant before driving the vehicle.
2. Bring the axle to normal operating temperature by driving the vehicle (unloaded) for approximately 15 to 20 miles. Do not run full throttle accelerations or create any shock loads.
3. Let the axle assembly cool completely.
4. For the next 200 miles of operation, drive gently, without any heavy loads.
5. If trailer towing is intended, an additional cycle of 200 to 300 miles of break-in is required without the trailer. To properly break-in a new gear set, a minimum of 500 miles of driving is essential before towing.