3800 M90 Build

Ok the cats out the bag!!im going supercharged .its a 3800 gm m90.i need lots of help as im a nos guy.for starters my list of mods is in my signature.the guy im buying it from ran it on a stock tuned motor at 3psi.first question is what is the "safe" limit to run boost at?i know it is not ideal but i have a wide band O2 and will be doing tuning very soon.i also will be trying to have my company make a new lower intake mounting bracket on the cnc machine and have it taped for nos/water meth injectors/spray bars.i will also be getting a p+p unit from 3800 performance and stepping down on the pulley to try and run 8-10psi.what size injectors should i run for that?which fuel pump should i run?any suggestions on tuning?i was going to go mega squirt but i see sct has a new chip out,any suggestions?


DONE
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!

dyno run,these was the last two pulls with the 2.7 and the alternator was bad.turn your volume down!!


and a 3.25 pull and think my rev is still set to 5000 in this one

 

[jd4242]

That point, and how it relates to the Ford V6 and V8 engines, was never being debated as I see it. I agree that the V8 will have more potential than the V6. But with a Ford OHV V8 variant there are still a few major things that need to be considered to make that power and do it reliably.

Yea.how about the new 5.0 crate motor they have now?you think that thing would ever fit in a ranger?

 

[rocket 5979]

Yea.how about the new 5.0 crate motor they have now?you think that thing would ever fit in a ranger?

That is a 5.0 4 valve DOHC coyote engine from the 2011+ Mustang GT's so it is even wider and physically larger than a 351W OHV engine. Anything can be made to fit, but the question is how easy will it be to do so? In this case it would make for a huge pain in the ass from a multitude of standpoints ranging from PCM control, transmission, motor mounting, fitment, etc. If you are on anything less than a huge financial and time investment budget then I suggest sticking with a 5.0 OHV based build, but raise your estimated project cost or lower your HP goals.

 

[jd4242]

That is a 5.0 4 valve DOHC coyote engine from the 2011+ Mustang GT's so it is even wider than a 351W OHV engine. Anything can be made to fit, but the question is how easy will it be to do so? In this case it would make for a huge pain in the ass from a multitude of standpoints ranging from PCM control, transmission, motor mounting, fitment, etc.

Lol it would be freakn cool tho

Anyways back to the thread.i have a dual temp gauge.one sensor is going after the ic but im torn where i should put the second. Either after tb or in the heat exchanger to tell me the water temp,witch would you go with? I know i can just guess close to what ambient temps are but with a lot of slow 4x4 its going to be sucking in alot of hot air and would like to know how hot that air is

 

[rocket 5979]

Lol it would be freakn cool tho

Anyways back to the thread.i have a dual temp gauge.one sensor is going after the ic but im torn where i should put the second. Either after tb or in the heat exchanger to tell me the water temp,witch would you go with? I know i can just guess close to what ambient temps are but with a lot of slow 4x4 its going to be sucking in alot of hot air and would like to know how hot that air is

I would have to see the sensors themselves to determine if they are the quick acting ones or the slower ones. The quick acting ones will have the tip of the sensor covered with a small plastic basket about the size of the tip of your pinky, so to speak. The slow acting ones will just have what appears to be a brass/copper stud sticking out with no holes or anything in it to allow airflow that is also about the size of the tip of your pinky.

 

[jd4242]

I would have to see the sensors themselves to determine if they are the quick acting ones or the slower ones. The quick acting ones will have the tip of the sensor covered with a small plastic basket about the size of the tip of your pinky, so to speak. The slow acting ones will just have what appears to be a brass/copper stud sticking out with no holes or anything in it to allow airflow that is also about the size of the tip of your pinky.

They say instant but i dont have it yet so cant break it out and look.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=987&osCsid=a373a39ad38df870de33cebf7c6cba12

 

[jd4242]

Ooo wait are you saying i cant use the instant ones in water?by the description it looks they are made for in and out,before or after

 

[mr cribb]

I dig the license plate... I'm always interested in reading the personalized ones.... and someone said they didn't understand it, the big hint is the thread itself.

Nice work all the way around JD, you sure know your stuff or have the patience to get it done.

 

[jd4242]

I dig the license plate... I'm always interested in reading the personalized ones.... and someone said they didn't understand it, the big hint is the thread itself.

Nice work all the way around JD, you sure know your stuff or have the patience to get it done.

Thanks man

 

[rocket 5979]

They say instant but i dont have it yet so cant break it out and look.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/prod...d=987&osCsid=a373a39ad38df870de33cebf7c6cba12

Ooo wait are you saying i cant use the instant ones in water?by the description it looks they are made for in and out,before or after

According to the wording on the site it looks like these are indeed the fast ones which are designed for air temp reading. So I would keep them out of coolant as a precaution. I have never personally tested one of these in coolant so they may be just fine, but I would have my reservations. If I were you I would keep one of your sensors post IC and one outside to measure ambient if you don't already have an accurate temp gauge in the X to read ambient temps. At least this way if you wanted to experiment with trying different things to drop post-blower IATs. Then you could easily have an exact measure of percentage of temp drop between the two. Afterwards then maybe you could switch that sensor from a location monitoring ambient temps to somewhere else more useful in the long term.

 

[jd4242]

well got a little more done.finished all my wiring.i also mounted and figured out how to mount my 2'' gauges into the 2.5'' pods.my buddy needed some carrier bolts so wile i was digging through my rearend parts, i saw carrier shims.they turned out to be just about 2'' ID and 2 3/4'' OD.i took and painted them and epoxied them to the back of my pod and it worked out pretty good i think.i dont have the dual temp gauge,tach or the relay for the fan but ive ran wires to all of it.i got some polishing to do on the lower and thats all i can do till the charger gets back.think im going to start some other projects now i have time and thinking about taking a bike ride to FL for a couple dayspics of the pod with one gauge in it

 

[wood1]

That's using the old noggin, looks great.

Can't wait to see that thing filling the wheel wells with tire smoke.

 

[jd4242]

That's using the old noggin, looks great.

Can't wait to see that thing filling the wheel wells with tire smoke.

idk about that..at over $300 a tire,i think ill use a set of bald stockers to do it

 

[phix-]

think im going to start some other projects now i have time and thinking about taking a bike ride to FL for a couple dayspics of the pod with one gauge in it

Let me know if you pass through central FL. Take you for an "inspiring" test drive.

 

[jd4242]

think im going to start some other projects now i have time and thinking about taking a bike ride to FL for a couple dayspics of the pod with one gauge in it

Let me know if you pass through central FL. Take you for an "inspiring" test drive.

Hell yea we are going the 25-30.ill PM you,would love to see your truck man

 

[wood1]

idk about that..at over $300 a tire,i think ill use a set of bald stockers to do it

ha ha, fair enough.

 

[jd4242]

need help bad!!!sooooooo pissed right now!!!
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=356135

 

[wood1]

Pita!

 

[rocket 5979]

need help bad!!!sooooooo pissed right now!!!
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=356135

That 4 digit alphanumeric code (T2Z1) is what is needed by your tuner if they are tuning your truck with SCT (or Diablo). That is what code will be plugged into SCT Advantage tuning software to pull up a stock version of your tune in the database. From there your tuner can build a custom tune based upon your modifications and burn it onto an SCT Eliminator chip that you can stick into the rear J3 dataport that your PCM has. Just make sure to clean the contacts on the PCM real well with a scotch-brite pad so that the contacts are clean and shiny so they conduct well.

 

[jd4242]

That 4 digit alphanumeric code (T2Z1) is what is needed by your tuner if they are tuning your truck with SCT (or Diablo). That is what code will be plugged into SCT Advantage tuning software to pull up a stock version of your tune in the database. From there your tuner can build a custom tune based upon your modifications and burn it onto an SCT Eliminator chip that you can stick into the rear J3 dataport that your PCM has. Just make sure to clean the contacts on the PCM real well with a scotch-brite pad so that the contacts are clean and shiny so they conduct well.

he said i should be able to cross it over and find it, witch i did after he was closed.but he is worried that it being a reman unit that some one could have used the wrong one or that some things may be different.he said it should be very close tho and it could be fine tuned later.it looks like they did use the right one from what i can tell but who knows if anything is "updated or changed"i have all the paper work for this truck and looks like they installed it back in 2002.lol also found the original sales paper work and my ex's parents paid $19,800 back in 95,it was a courtesy truck for beach ford,had 1500 miles on it.they took it in every three months till i got it

 

[jd4242]

I just got an email from the p+p guy and he said it should be done this week.he said i should have it by Friday or early next week!!!YEEEEEEAAAAA BUDDY!!