supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

[CDW6212R]

More cam sensor talk gonna happen now

I think you should pull the sensor cap off and take a look see in there, as, I bet that is your noise also.




And, if it is exploded it is because we posted so much about it.

That'd be my guess too, the synchro makes that kind of squeak when they go bad. Hopefully your other one is a lower mileage part.

Jon will mention that you want a Ford unit, they seem to have better clearances and stronger pins, last longer etc. The new ones are just over $100 on the low side, Rock Auto I think.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

ok, so just to make sure nobody is butthurt here









no more codes. havent listened to see if it still squeaks or not yet however. needed to get in and out of the shop. he has something coming that he needs to work on, and has pushed it back since tuesday.

 

[delexploder]

So you used the yellow tool ?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

yup, it was the one that came with the new sensor

 

[Turdle]

Well, that removes all doubt.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

now to wait and see what the second oil change brings. if its silver i will cry. also, brad [MENTION=118340]ford99_1979[/MENTION], i have seen you peeking in on this. i dont think all ford nationals is going to happen this summer, but if i can afford it, i may go for a road trip back out to calgary. if i do, i will have to give you a call, and let you take it for a scream.

 

[ford99_1979]

now to wait and see what the second oil change brings. if its silver i will cry. also, brad [MENTION=118340]ford99_1979[/MENTION], i have seen you peeking in on this. i dont think all ford nationals is going to happen this summer, but if i can afford it, i may go for a road trip back out to calgary. if i do, i will have to give you a call, and let you take it for a scream.

Of course I'm watching this! Good work and keep at it, can't stop. If you do come out this way it would be awesome to see evil... I know the roller coaster of emotions you are going through right now. Just keep plugging away you'll get there.

 

[ahodges]

Looking good. Come on warm weather!

 

[Dono]

Looking good. Come on warm weather!

Exactly.
This weather is brutal. I think were all getting it.

I sure wish we all had those triple car garages with lifts and floor heat.

This weather can't carry on much longer. I'm sure were all thinking of things we could be doing in our garages/outside.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i was screwing around with it on saturday night. i was going to go for a run to your place and drop off some stuff don, then i thought about it. it was -30C, BFN motor with maybe 20kms on it....um...no...

 

[vroomzoomboom]

i manged to put on just over 100 miles on now. some babied, some...well...um...needles to say its a rocket on wheels if you ask me. i took a coworker for a fast rip in it today (chevy guy). never have i seen a jaw drop like his did. had it in 4x4 (mind you its cold still here, and these are my winter tires, not the 20's) and punched it from a stand still off idle. i can honestly say i have never had it spin that hard off the line, and kick the truck sideways going into second gear.....IN 4WD and not have it redline!!!
kinda got my attention...fast...
i also have said its gotten real loud in there now at cruising. i found a app that measures DB. this was at 100km or 60mph



now on to the not so sure news. i did the second oil change today on it (did the first 20 mins after running). im not so sure if i should be nervous or if this is normal.





it still is on the old 302/m112 tune, and its running rich right now for whatever reason as well.
this is a picture from Mankorn427 thread who also had a thrust bearing failure on his b/n 347 with a scat crank

i need opinions here guys. one side want to say this is still normal because there is still no miles on my motor (i think Mankorn427's had around 1500) and the side of me tells me to panic! i have a oil sample kit so i am going to drive it just a little more then take a sample, but i dont know if they can tell if there is bearing material in the oil with it not really broke in yet or not.

 

[Dono]

Taking an oil sample in will work. Don't panic. It doesn't look so bad.

I remember James mentioning that when a motor moved more air at a certain rpm than it used to it actually goes rich. To him this makes perfect sense. I still struggle with the concept a bit.

 

[ahodges]

Oil sampling will show everything and you can infer what is wearing based on the levels of the types of material. You need to get at least a couple hundred miles on it before taking an oil sample so you can get good data. When you pull the oil sample, you need to record what brand, type, and weight of oil you are using, the engine size, and the mileage on the oil. the right way to pull an oil sample is by having the oil warm to hot and use an oil sampling pump to pull the oil through the dipstick tube from the same height as the bottom of the dipstick. Most of the time people, even I, do not have access to an oil sample pump so the next best way is this.

Get the oil hot, pull the drain plug and fill up the sample bottle after about half of the oil has drained. You do not want to take the sample as soon as it begins to drain because you will get a false result.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

cut the filter open tonight (hammer and chisel). i am going to go out on a limb here and say this isnt good.





same image as above, just blown up



now i know with it being a fresh motor and all there will be some crap in there, but i dont think its that much!
i am also going to take it next week to my trans guy (if he has time because hes pretty busy right now) and see what the trans pressure is at. i am wondering if its over pressuring and pushing the converter into the crank. if thats all good there is only one part i can blame and thats the flex plate.

 

[Dono]

OMFG. That filter tells the story. Im so sorry.

I still won't pretend to understand. There seemed to be what, about 1/8" minimum space between flex plate and torque converter before you tightened them together?

I'm praying you caught it fast enough and find the issue before that motor comes out again.

 

[4pointslow]

end play

Can you check crankshaft endplay with the engine in the truck?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

don, like yea. no kidding. you where there when i tighten it. when i opened the filter and saw that, the first thing that came to mind was alcohol, and lost of if.
john, i am going to beg my buddy for his shop again for a afternoon or something like that so i can do it with it on a lift. that way i can get a better look at it.
as of right now i am almost afraid to drive it, and worry about causing more damage

 

[4pointslow]

Crank End Play

I came across an interesting thread that mentioned something that should be looked into. Post 1 states this

"Apparently the counterbore at the back of the crank is too shallow causing the converter snout to push forward on the crank. Turns out I only had about .025 clearance, and I was told that the flexplate can flex .030 and maybe a bit more with a high HP car. Took .075 off of the converter snout and also shimmed back the converter with some washers and set pullout to .125 so I should have around .115 clearance now, hopefully I will be good this time."

Post 12 brings in the 4R70W.


http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...-crank-walk-issues-eagle-crank-aod-trans.html

The clearance he talks about is not between the torque converter and flexplate with the nuts/bolts loose. The clearance would be how much the flexplate can flex before the torque converter "nub" bottoms out in the crank and then starts to apply pressure to the back of the crank. (instead of just the felxplate flexing to absorb the pressure from the torque converter pushing forward)

I guess you could check the old torque converter / flexplate movement on the old 5.0 crank by having the flexplate bolted to the 5.0, and then the torque converter bolted to the flexplate and pushing at the back of the torque converter while measuring with a dial indicator.
And then do the same with the 347 and other torque converter (after pulling the engine to replace the thrust bearing)

 

[delexploder]

Did you use break in oil?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I came across an interesting thread that mentioned something that should be looked into. Post 1 states this

"Apparently the counterbore at the back of the crank is too shallow causing the converter snout to push forward on the crank. Turns out I only had about .025 clearance, and I was told that the flexplate can flex .030 and maybe a bit more with a high HP car. Took .075 off of the converter snout and also shimmed back the converter with some washers and set pullout to .125 so I should have around .115 clearance now, hopefully I will be good this time."

Post 12 brings in the 4R70W.


http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0...-crank-walk-issues-eagle-crank-aod-trans.html

The clearance he talks about is not between the torque converter and flexplate with the nuts/bolts loose. The clearance would be how much the flexplate can flex before the torque converter "nub" bottoms out in the crank and then starts to apply pressure to the back of the crank. (instead of just the felxplate flexing to absorb the pressure from the torque converter pushing forward)

I guess you could check the old torque converter / flexplate movement on the old 5.0 crank by having the flexplate bolted to the 5.0, and then the torque converter bolted to the flexplate and pushing at the back of the torque converter while measuring with a dial indicator.
And then do the same with the 347 and other torque converter (after pulling the engine to replace the thrust bearing)

as mentioned i am going to beg my buddy to let me use his lift, that way i can see what the endplay is first. i really dont want to pull this thing out again. i have read on SBFtech a few guys (and i mean just a few) that have over .12 endplay and are still ok (and i hope with fingers crossed i am below that, wishful thinking and all). if i have to pull the motor this thing may have to wait until spring time. i dont have the cash now to do to much of anything with it.

Did you use break in oil?

fordstrokers recommends 5w30 for break in, then 10w30 after that for the first few thousand miles, then you can go synthetic.