New to the scene, but not to the game.

[Fix4Dirt]

Thats very peculiar that we would use a sport trac setup rather than a ranger setup since it's a lift for a ranger. Is there a difference between the two or a reason for that? Just curious honestly. I'm already getting the Sport Trac setup priced out.

I just need to get all my ducks in a row before starting. While there are many advantages to having access to a shop the way I do. It also comes with its disadvantages. I can't have a personal vehicle disabled in a stall during normal working hours. Everything I do must be done over Friday night through Saturday, and out of the shop before Monday morning. Doesn't need to run, just be able to roll at least lol.

Good news is I got a free set of 33" BFG AT tires from a jeep that got traded in. Still got like 6mm tread on them. Not brand new, but will work for the time being. They will be temporary until I get around to buying my 35s.

yes, it is odd. however, i think RC wanted to just use the best available right now, which is the bigger rotor. good upgrade i hear. when the superlift came out, 1 i was not alive, but 2 i do believe that those sport trac rotors were not around either, or maybe just hit the market and were largely unknown. the superlift is a 4", and is specifically designed for Explorers with rear leaves to fit as opposed to SOA, but aside, the RC is nearly an exact clone.

ahhh i see.

nice! being honest, without the BL (which i forget if its already on or not) the 33s will fit nicely! seen em on the superlift with a TT, which is basically 5" and they look great!!!!!! kudos on the build!

 

[CDW6212R]

With normal typical brakes(the size of the caliper bodies), the wheels have to be at least 3.25" larger than the rotors. So a 12" rotor(stock Sport Trac front rotor is about 11.8"(they exaggerate almost always in advertising)) has to have a wheel around 15.25", thus 16" wheels.

If you can keep the rotor diameter under the ##.75" mark, you can use a smaller wheel, most rotors are closer to the whole number size. My custom rotors on my 98 Mountaineer are 12.75", thus I can use almost any 16" wheels. Thus the Sport Trac 16" wheels don't quite clear my big brakes, I had a set of those with snow tires for a while, I sold them because of that clearance issue.

The 16" Sport Trac wheels have less clearance inside the wheels than other OEM Ford 16" wheels.

 

[DannyW]

That is exactly what I want, but I'm unsure if those will fit with the RC 5" suspension lift installed. RC website says a minimum of 17" wheels are required, but a few of the guys mentioned that 16s might fit. I would buy that exact set right now if I knew for a fact that they would fit with the lift as well as the larger calipers and rotors I'll have to swap. There's only a 1/2" difference between the radius of a 16" and a 17" wheel, so I suppose it's possible. I'd just feel better with a definite answer before purchasing them.

That is exactly what I want, but I'm unsure if those will fit with the RC 5" suspension lift installed. RC website says a minimum of 17" wheels are required, but a few of the guys mentioned that 16s might fit. I would buy that exact set right now if I knew for a fact that they would fit with the lift as well as the larger calipers and rotors I'll have to swap. There's only a 1/2" difference between the radius of a 16" and a 17" wheel, so I suppose it's possible. I'd just feel better with a definite answer before purchasing them.

Just measured across the inside opening (back) of my 16x10 Raceline - 15-7/8"
Hope that helps.
-Dan

 

[PoweredByMB]

Just measured across the inside opening (back) of my 16x10 Raceline - 15-7/8"
Hope that helps.
-Dan

Thanks for the additional info Dan! Just curious, do you have the RC 5" lift installed? If so do you also have your calipers and rotors swapped out?

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks for the additional info Dan! Just curious, do you have the RC 5" lift installed? If so do you also have your calipers and rotors swapped out?

You don't have to swap the calipers, if the spindles have the holes moved mike the Sport Trac spindles. Only the rotor has to be swapped in that case to get the bigger rotors.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

from the looks of his profile pic, it looks like a BL has been done, as well as moderate trimming. in the rear i do not see an SOA setup, it looks SUA. as such, either there is a superlift under there, which iirc does not require the bigger rotors, but imo with 4" SL+3" BL that much trimming would not be necessary, so im thinking its got a TT OME leaves (evidenced by the military wrap pack) and a 3" BL with trimming to fit 35s. basically gerald's setup on herc. just my guess based on what i see

must say, this is goals eventually for me!!!!!! 35s with RC or SL and a BL

 

[DannyW]

You don't have to swap the calipers, if the spindles have the holes moved mike the Sport Trac spindles. Only the rotor has to be swapped in that case to get the bigger rotors.

Not yet, that's sitting in a pile to be done this winter.
Right now I have reindexed (+3") keys, plus 2 inches or so of twist in the torsion bars. Slight trim on the bottom of the fenders. I used the tracmotive half shafts to handle the angles.
I also had BFT Fab make fully boxed uc's with uniball, 1" longer to remove the negative caster.

 

[DannyW]

from the looks of his profile pic, it looks like a BL has been done, as well as moderate trimming. in the rear i do not see an SOA setup, it looks SUA. as such, either there is a superlift under there, which iirc does not require the bigger rotors, but imo with 4" SL+3" BL that much trimming would not be necessary, so im thinking its got a TT OME leaves (evidenced by the military wrap pack) and a 3" BL with trimming to fit 35s. basically gerald's setup on herc. just my guess based on what i see View attachment 436111

must say, this is goals eventually for me!!!!!! 35s with RC or SL and a BL

1" additional lift on the body mounts when I changed them all out.
No rear trimming, but I did flatten out the trailing sides of the front fenders. This pic was before. Also before the beadlocks.
The rear are sua, but ordered for a 1996 ford f150 with a 4" lift in them. 2" warrior shackles finish that off.
TT, as stated earlier, but only about 1/2 of potential, since I re-indexed the keys 3".
-Dan

 

[Fix4Dirt]

1" additional lift on the body mounts when I changed them all out.
No rear trimming, but I did flatten out the trailing sides of the front fenders. This pic was before. Also before the beadlocks.
The rear are sua, but ordered for a 1996 ford f150 with a 4" lift in them. 2" warrior shackles finish that off.
TT, as stated earlier, but only about 1/2 of potential, since I re-indexed the keys 3".
-Dan

View attachment 436120

ohhhh i see now!!!! now it makes sense! sorry bout that looks like a great rig!!!!

 

[DannyW]

ohhhh i see now!!!! now it makes sense! sorry bout that looks like a great rig!!!!

@Fix4Dirt , thanks. You asked in the pm about the spare carrier, but I can't add a photo. Again, with the old wheels but maybe helps a bit. Also a pic opened.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

My names Clayton, I'm a Mercedes master tech.

Do you by any chance know the meaning of INAT, regarding zenith carbs? On a little quest for that info.

 

[valenciaismail]

You really need to consider ditching the awd t case and installing a bw4406m transfer case and drivelines.

Nox Vidmate VLC​

 

[PoweredByMB]

Do you by any chance know the meaning of INAT, regarding zenith carbs? On a little quest for that info.

I'm not actually sure of what that is an acronym for honestly. Most German cars use acronyms from German words. It's likey some absurdly long German word lol I'll see if I can dig around and find that info for you. That's some old stuff your working on there man. What are you trying to do? What kind of vehicle is it. I likely have an old shop manual here for whatever it is. I've actually been doing a huge resto on an 87 560SEL over the past few months. It's been a fun job.

 

[ChildIdenticant]

It's likey some absurdly long German word

That was the first assumption, but many hours on american and german forums, no dice. Others are convinced the info is lost to time. I'm thinking it is actually french. Discovering the meaning won't assist in the vehicle repair. Just an as of yet, unsolved mystery.

That's some old stuff your working on there man. What are you trying to do? What kind of vehicle is it.

On May 9th 1966 my great grandmother purchased a 1966 230s, a ponton/pontoon "W111" new. Now, at ≈138k miles, it has stayed mostly in family driveways, and currently is owned by an uncle who endeavors to restore it to possible daily driver. The carbs use an always on electric autochoke/choke thermostat. The chokes are held closed until the autochokes heating coils heat the bimetal spring allowing the choke to fully open. Both of the heating coils are burned out and the ceramic insulators are degraded. So the plugs foul within 15 minutes ofidle. Replacement parts are stupid expensive. So, purchased some nichrome wire to fab new heating coils and am finishing up makeshift insulators. I think it will be driveable after that is finished.

Don't recall where it was , but saw a few armored (what I think were) 560SEL's within some kind of escort long ago.

 

[DintDobbs]

@PoweredByMB I know spacers aren't your preferred option, but I've got to recommend Supreme Suspensions spacers, if you find no wheels with proper backspacing. I've been thrashing the bean dip out of my Supreme Suspensions 1.5" spacers on my Sport for many years, inspect them every tire rotation, and have never once been concerned for damaging them. Decided to take the rear ones off for better clearance a month or so ago, split a Kobalt 12-point and rounded off the lug nut... if you take 'em off, use a 6-point.

I can find a link to the 2" spacers since that's the ones you'd likely want; the 1.5" have been discontinued. Pro Comp 51 Series are good wide steelies with lots of diameter, width and backspacing options, not sure of the price above 16" though. I got a set of 5 (15x10) for $300.

I got close to 5" with my Superlift 4" + RTZ re-indexed torsion keys, so if you haven't already got the RC, check out others' experience with the Superlift + keys. Do heed all prior warnings about T-bar adjustment; just giving you more bolt to adjust doesn't mean the angles on the CV's will be acceptable... I'm sure you know all of this.

You'd be smart to avoid a body lift like the plague, those bumper brackets will make your bumper completely useless in the event that you'd actually need one.

 

[PoweredByMB]

That was the first assumption, but many hours on american and german forums, no dice. Others are convinced the info is lost to time. I'm thinking it is actually french. Discovering the meaning won't assist in the vehicle repair. Just an as of yet, unsolved mystery.

After talking with some of the old timers here in the shop, as well as our older staff in parts, the consensus is that INAT is an identifier for the part superseding indicating which series it is and what parts and features it's equipped with. Allegedly it is not an acronym for anything. I even dusted off our old shop manuals and it has no answer either.

Sounds like a cool project with a lot of sentimental value behind it. Let me know how that goes! One of my older parts guys is working on a 57 220s right now. Pretty cool little car.

 

[PoweredByMB]

@DintDobbs so I actually opted for spacers and had some custom ones made. Still waiting for them to get here. A machine shop that we use is building them for me. They will be 1.5" spacers changing my bolt pattern from 5x4.5 to 5x5. They are also genuine load bearing spacers they are being built with an outer hub mounting surfaces with an exact fir to the wheels I bought. Inner hub diameter for mating the the vehicles hub is 70.5mm outer diameter for the center bore of the wheel is 3.27in. So they will be custom built for those wheels to my explorer. The wheels I went with are 17"x8" with a -12mm offset. So she's going to be wider for sure haha.

I got a set of free 285/70r17 (33in) BFgoodrich A/T KO2 from a jeep we took as a trade in here at my dealership. So those will be temporary until I get the 5" suspension lift on and buy some 35s.

Also I already put a body lift on it just for cleance purposes. I won't be using the bumper brackets though. I'm going to have one of my friends build custom bumpers for it to solve that issue. Because you're right, those brackets aren't structurally sound and are for eliminating the aethetic issue of the gap the body lift creates. I also have been thinking about installing engine and trans mount risers to get my power train back into the vehicle nice and snug. Haven't quite made up my mind on that yet though honestly. I want to get a manual transfer case with drivelines first to check my working angle before making that decision.

This isn't a daily driver and will be an on going project for quite sometime. So I've got plenty of time to make decisions on it, and I'm very grateful for the overwhelming wealth of knowledge that both this forum as well as all of its members brings to the table.

 

[DintDobbs]

@PoweredByMB N i c e . That sounds like exactly what I would have done, if I'd had the means (except for changing the bolt pattern). Man, I love watching somebody who knows what he's doing, AND has the right tools for the job.

Looks like you've got this all figured out the right way, so I'll just grab some figurative popcorn and enjoy the show!

Kudos!

 

[ChildIdenticant]

the consensus is that INAT is an identifier for the part superseding

Thanks for responding and asking the veterans. The local mbenz museum hasn't responded.
Extensive research done, and the fact that the carb has been used on at least 2 other vehicles implies/suggests that INAT is an initialism/acronym. (peugot is the brand of one of the vehicles)
Thinking I will have the car road reliable after the autochoke fix. Manual choke would be most reliable for this though.

 

[PoweredByMB]

I got my custom spacers in today, and got them installed with the new wheels and tires.

It looks much better! Tires are 33x11.5 (temporary until I get the lift, then going to 35s) The spacers are great quality too. As previously mentioned they are custom built from billet aluminum. They are genuine load bearing so no stress on the studs. They are hubcentric and perfectly machined to fit my hub and these wheels. Got them on with the new wheels (17×8 -12 offset) so going from +12mm to -12mm offset gives me rough an inch plus the 1.5in from the spacers I've got 2.5 inches of width on each side. Looks much better and feels more stable.

I am getting some rubbing on the trim of the side steps so those will be coming off next to give the needed clearance.

Looking forward to the lift and the 35s next!