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supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport




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So the leak is where all 4 primaries come together? The tmh is supposed to have a pyramid there to boost velocity
Looks like yours has broken off! What the heck!

I would think that area could be welded back up? It doesn’t look like rust?

All of this is to replace injectors and fix the exhaust
Leak. Did you do a compression check?

Yeah, that.

damn......now that you both say that. i remember turdle and i talking about that once and how bob said nobody could copy his header because of that....im going to have to look at the other one i have. i called the guy that did the welding on the innercooler mount (he does a lot of racecar stuff) said it can be fixed but would end up cutting the end off knocking everything out of the center, building it back up, and welding everything back together.
and no, i havent done a compression test yet, so that bomb still ticking away. i took today off and the only thing i have managed to do is go around in circles. cant even find the adaptors i need locally so i am going to end up waiting until next week for them.
 


















Kinda wanted compression with valve covers installed.
patients grasshopper. i am waiting to sneak into work so i can try bending my spare header. will probably do the compression test after that.
 






@Turdle

357678946_1639337486549551_2805619464401502395_n.jpg


that is number 6 cylinder. this one as well as number 8 looked to be not firing because of low temperature on the heat gun. number 8 was close the the same for compression. i only did the one bank and they were within 10-15 psi of each other.

i also had to do this. this was a gut punch.

357685346_101918996297595_1047574444754571157_n.jpg


this was on dono's truck. when he got the header it didnt fit great. he had to clearance the valve cover for it to work, but the other problem was he couldnt remove the valve cover with the header on (trickflow talls, same as the ones on this motor). i was going to try to heat and bend the pipe with the quicker heater upper but it didnt work, so i ended up having to smash it. ugh. looks like i will be trying to get new ones if i can find robert.
 






The dents in the tubes should not hurt performance, but I would address the corrosion.

I Thought the headers were constructed from stainless.
 






The dents in the tubes should not hurt performance, but I would address the corrosion.

I Thought the headers were constructed from stainless.

thats what i thought to. when i had the guy look at the broken header, i also said i dont think its stainless because stainless doesnt rust. he had said unless its (insert what he said here) stainless because that will rust.
 












400 series stainless steel will rust a magnet will also stick to IT IT is stainless steel factory exhaust systems are usually made of this type of stainless steel
Your exhaust tubes do look like they are made from 400 series stainless steel

exhausttable_6.png
 






been kinda dragging on putting everything back together. then again i wont have my adaptors here more then likely Thursday. header is back on however. everything is cleaned up and ready to go back on. its been a billion degrees outside all weekend as well so that doesnt help, nor does rain. i managed to get this put on however.

357998416_923026382219027_8470728903052975928_n.jpg


a extended oil pressure sending mount that has 2 ports. i saw this on 410's ranger build. i didnt know they made something like this. i can now run my oil pressure gauge on the pillar and the one in the holley screen. what a pita to put in however.

part number if anyone wants to get one.

357986841_263715309676189_4254803949056526596_n.jpg
 






well, lets recap the last week and a bit shall we. my adaptors came in on saturday (never knew fed ex dropped on saturdays up here). the problem with that was i had a friend that i have known since being 6 come to town. i also told another friend that i have known since i was 15 i would help him with his sons truck. so sunday i was able to work on evil. had pretty much everything together but the coil packs on, and the intake elbow and throttle body on when i started to fill it with coolant. when i did that, i could hear water dripping. low and behold the intake was leaking once again. after pulling everything all apart again, i sealed the water passages on the gaskets, put the mount and supercharger back on, torqued it and let it sit for a day. yesterday i retorqued it, and tried filling it with water once again. no leaks! once again started putting it all together again. tonight i finished and tried to start it. well, it now runs worse then before....i know it will run a little rough for the first bit because i had to use some Vaseline on the injector o rings, but thing thing will not give me a break! getting very tired of this. i also noticed that the vacuum is around 5 and not 13-15. i am going to look in the tune tomorrow and see what injectors are in the tune. maybe that will make a difference? calling holley is a joke so i wont even bother with that. james (my tuner) is tying to get ready for miles of mayhem and leave friday, so i am not even sure if i want to bother him at all either.
 






Check for vacuum leaks.
 






well i was able to talk with james before he left for miles of mayhem (yesterday was the last day and i believe he placed second in his class) and had told me that he had SD injectors entered into the tune. he also thought that the sync was one tooth off. i have pulled the cam sync out and tried 180 out, and straight up, falling and rising with no difference. it also has barely enough power to move up and down the driveway and will stall anytime you give it any throttle. i was going to break down, get a msd cam sync plug and convert everything to ls coils. that stopped me dead in my tracks when i fount out there are 4 different coils for gm, and the coils would cost close to 900 cnd, and thats with no brackets, or wires. this was a bad idea.
 






The rising costs of EVERYTHING sure cuts in to the fun money. Thats for sure.
Do you really think moving to LS coils wold help in this case?
 






The rising costs of EVERYTHING sure cuts in to the fun money. Thats for sure.
Do you really think moving to LS coils wold help in this case?
ill say! i sold a truck this week. i was going to put it for one price, and figured i would bump it up a grand because i could always go down. was i wrong! the first day my phone blew up, in the end, i saved it 2 days for one guy to drive 3 hours to have first crack at it. in that time i had one other person say they would buy it if he didnt, 4 others that wanted to leave a deposit sight unseen, and i cane remember how many want to come look at it!!
i cant say for sure anymore. it has stressed me to the max again with it. its starting to reach the point "throw money at it till it runs", because that always works, right? :help:
 






Lol....I seem to remember I tried the 'throw money at it till it works'.
 






Does this mean that you sold your blue flamed Explorer?
Ford 7.3 "Godzilla" coils for coil-near-plug would work well because of their fire time duration. Am I stating this correctly?
ADDED: 40 minutes later..."Spark burn time duration"
Explanation
 






What you sold it ehh?
 



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No he sold a different truck not his beloved sport

We need this thing to run!!
 






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