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01 sport - 4.0 SOHC STS turbo charged (Project complete)

Well, this was my first complete gear install and I think it's a success. It drives but I do have an ever so slight noise from the rear when coasting. To put it in perspective, if the window is down you can't hear. If the window is up and radio off you can hear the rear winding down slightly. It doesn't sound like an alarming sound and this may be normal with all new bearings, new ring and pinion and new posi unit. I'll drive it for 500 miles easy and check the wear pattern again. I may have to add one more shim to the pinion depth if it get's worse.
 



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Well done Jake, that's a lot of hard work to set up gears etc, I haven't done that before.
 






I think for racing the 4R70W would be best, but ask Rob about that, he would know if there is one with the 4.0 bell housing pattern.

There isn't a small bellhousing 4R70 available that I am aware of. I would keep to the 5 speed auto. I ran 12.70's with mine (5R55E). Only after a ton of miles mine started slipping. Never went south! Damn good tranny.

If you decide to go to a 5R55S be prepared to make this your biggest pain of the entire swap. I still question why I did it at times!

I'm no expert on reading the wear patterns. What I have now is ideal contact on the drive side but I can't get the coast side to give me a good readable pattern - it's like it's not making enough contact to create the pattern. The backlash right now is around 15 thousands and I may tighten that up a little before I install. I just had to get away from it all for a bit because it was getting frustrating.
Tighten the backlash to around .010-.013 and if you are getting a coast noise then I would recommend installing around a .002 larger shim. These two things should quieten it down. I have set up many of these with 'Stangs for my local customers. Every once in a while you will get a pia rear.-j
 






There isn't a small bellhousing 4R70 available that I am aware of. I would keep to the 5 speed auto. I ran 12.70's with mine (5R55E). Only after a ton of miles mine started slipping. Never went south! Damn good tranny.
...

Thanks James, I didn't think that there was one. It would take an adapter plate etc. that I know nothing about. They make that kind of part for popular applications, I never own those.
 






Thanks James.


The Richmond gear website says they stamp or etch the target pinion depth on the pinion itself. The new gears I purchased didn't have anything but the number 304 on the pinion. After guessing at the pinion depth, and taking the rear end apart several times, I finally found the etched pinion depth on the ring gear? (along with the number 304 which matched the ring and pinion as a set) This threw me for a loop. The gear-set says a .006 backlash but without ordering another shim kit I could only get it to .009 for the backlash. The closest from there, with the shims I had, was .015 and I figured that was a little too much. I've heard that any noise after a gear install will only get worse in time so I'll have to add another shim which I really don't feel like doing right now. This is why you take things to people that know what they're doing. I did learn alot and the next rear end will hopefully go faster.


I bet anything my backlash on the old rear was around .062 or more. It was worn like you wouldn't believe.
 






By the way. The next two performance mods will be:

1) AEM Meth kit
2) Comp Cams valve springs #249-909-16


The second one is a hint on how to fix the valve float you're running into with a boosted 4.0 SOHC. I have to say I got this info from the mustang crowd and it hasn't been tested. The dims on these springs are the same as the stockers and the seat load is just a little higher. Should be interesting.
 






You might do well to consult with a camshaft expert, designer. I know of Jay Allen as a great cam guy. He can do almost anything, and the valvetrain is huge factor in making big power. If springs are in your future, you might consider going through the heads, and doing new cams anyway. Made for the engine you could gain double what you hope for with the new springs you mentioned. Regards,
 






I may do the whole motor. Heck I've already spend a gazillion dollars might as well go for 2
 






I may do the whole motor. Heck I've already spend a gazillion dollars might as well go for 2

I wouldn't go that far, but if you have the need for speed. I hope my SOHC lasts for many years, but I'll likely start on a rebuild of my spare 302 parts just in case. I wanted AWD in that truck anyway.
 






I wouldn't go that far, but if you have the need for speed. I hope my SOHC lasts for many years, but I'll likely start on a rebuild of my spare 302 parts just in case. I wanted AWD in that truck anyway.


That would be the ticket. I still have dreams of an AWD sport.
 






Well with the donor parts it's the strongest way to go. Watch the budget, it can get out of hand fast. I am really glad that the pushrod engines are cheaper than modular stuff. You can spend $6000 on just a new Ford engine, and you know what some have spent on their later built Explorers.
 






I am working on a set of cams and springs right now for our engine. These won't be sh**ty regrinds either. As far as the spring I have something in the works for that as well. I might need a couple of beta testers. I have been considering turning mine back to stock. I just have too much going on right now.

Jake as far as the rear shims, I have hundreds laying around. Tell me the sizes you need and send a SASE to me and I will give you some. Not trying to be a smart ass or anything but .006" backlash is just too tight for a daily driven 8.8. I promise .008-.010 will get you where you need to be.-j
 






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Jake as far as the rear shims, I have hundreds laying around. Tell me the sizes you need and send a SASE to me and I will give you some. Not trying to be a smart ass or anything but .006" backlash is just too tight for a daily driven 8.8. I promise .008-.010 will get you where you need to be.-j

Ditto, .007-.009 is ideal. Isn't the spec .007-.015, I learned the .007-.009 long ago.
 






Yes, I am at .009 right now. The .006 was what was stamped on the ring gear and I assume that was the recommended backlash from Richmond? Anyways, I didn't follow that number.

Hey, I'll beta test what ever you need. That means I have to go to the dyno/track a few times to get some numbers and that would motivate me. I'm not sure how much is left in the current engine but it would be fun.

In the other hand, I must say I think you should continue leading the way with these type mods. I know you're probably busy but it seems you'd spend more time converting the truck back to stock.
 






Any opinions on Comp Cam Beehive springs? Are they what they crack up to be? Nice build Jakee;) Looking forward to some numbers.
 






i want a freakin turbo charger in my truck!!! i have a 98 4.0 SOHC xlt awd and i want a turbo for it and i cant find any turbos. does anyone know any websites. if you do email me because im hardly on the site. my email is sage4dex@aol.com please if you find anything please email me thank you
 






i want a freakin turbo charger in my truck!!! i have a 98 4.0 SOHC xlt awd and i want a turbo for it and i cant find any turbos. does anyone know any websites. if you do email me because im hardly on the site. my email is sage4dex@aol.com please if you find anything please email me thank you

Your explorer is not awd it's 4x4, awd was only available on the v8's. There are no turbo kits offered, if you want a turbo it will have to be custom, most of the ones here on this site use the sts remote turbo kits as a starting point.
 






Techs right, you have to build it yourself. There are supercharger kits available from explorerexpress.com that are direct bolton. Should provide ample power unless you have in mind to smoke anything that lines up next to you.
 









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Any opinions on Comp Cam Beehive springs? Are they what they crack up to be? Nice build Jakee;) Looking forward to some numbers.


I was honestly trying to get the truck hooking so I could prevent spinning down the track, cuss I know that's what it would have done. Then I installed the powertrax locker and wheel hopped the rear end to destruction. It's now back up and running; however, I'm installing new body bushings, which is what got me to modding this truck in the first place. Since I had to pull the carpet up, I said what the heck and ordered dynomat and new black carpet - it's a chain reaction now. Now I'll have new carpet with old seats. I'll probably leave the back seat out and order light weight racing seats at some point in time.


Hopefully I'll get it down the track before blowing the engine but I mostly enjoy fixing-it-up.
 






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