06 2WD XLT Brakes Engaging at Highway Speed

[Explorer_PL]

I go thru them a lot since I clock close to 100 miles everyday year after year. I also plow snow on my driveway and neighbors sometimes, and I tow very often. All these things do not help bearings.
Also, few of those 10 or more were the cheap Chinese ones at the beginning of the ownership when I was just plain stupid. Also, probably few of the rear ones I had to replace prematurely because I did not torque the nut properly, it's critical on the rears, not so much on the front.

Break loose the axle shaft nut while the vehicle is still on the ground with all the wheels still on. If the hub were never replaced, it may be still glued to the knuckle from the factory. That may slow you down, even after you have all the 3 bolts removed (15 mm). To get better access to them, remove the axle nut, and push the shaft in, that will make a room for a short socket behind.

 

[tripplec]

Right on Explorer_PL

If he doesn't have a socket that works on that big nut the rest is irrelevant as I found out and breaking it free is also a must do. Then your at least moving forward with more manageable issues. If they're using a concave washer he wants to put it back the same way as it was a well.

It sounds like these beast are harder on wheel bearing than their predecessors. Still a lot of bearing in that millage. Are you a wild man behind the wheel?? I tell my son to steer like you're doing waltz or slow dance. I guess he don't know what I mean. LOL Sudden lurches put a lot of strain on the bearings and PS pump. Anyway I guess he'll learn..

 

[g5IGUWg5s]

@tripplec Thankfully in this case I don't need to worry about the axle nut because it's 2WD. But, I have air tools and impact sockets to tackle that beast from a previous rear axle half shaft replacement.

On Sunday, I replaced the passenger side front wheel hub assembly and the problem seemed resolved after a test drive around town!

After that, I drove ~231 highway miles and when I got off the interstate tonight, the driver's side front brakes were making all kinds of noise, shaking the front end, and clamping down hard. A little further down the road, both front brake calipers fully engaged and wouldn't let go. The ABS and traction control lights came on and the Explorer wouldn't move.

I made it home (2 miles) after disabling the ABS system by pulling fuses. The issue persisted after pulling the fuses, which made me think it wasn't related to the ABS sensor or wheel hub, so I replaced the driver's side front caliper.

I just took it for a test drive and the front left wheel is still seizing up. I guess both front hubs/bearings went bad at the same time? I'm planning on buying another HUB-67 tomorrow morning and replacing the driver front as well.

 

[g5IGUWg5s]

Thanks for the help everyone. After replacing the front wheel hubs, front brake hoses, front calipers, and all of the rotors and brake pads, the problem went away. I'm not sure which exact part was causing the issue but I'm thankful my Explorer is moving forward again.

 

[tripplec]

Oh, who threw all the parts at it? Yeah that would have done it.

Reading back up it looks like it was you. Well you're all new up front.and sensors are in these bearings so very little can be done with the computer is getting mixed signals. There is no ABS off mode other that what you did to pull the fuse.

 

[swshawaii]

Great to hear OP. Despite "throwing" all those brake parts, you have pretty much rebuilt the most important system in your vehicle for safety. To prevent future issues most recommend completely flushing brake fluid every two years regardless of mileage. When flushing, open the bleeder screws and slowly bottom out the pistons to expel any contaminants trapped behind them.

What remains in bores when the pistons aren't compressed when bleeding or flushing.

 

[michael loibl]

So hub 67 was the right one for your 2006? Everything I read shows that hub for 2005 and older, and hub 29 for 2006 and up.
I need to do at least one of the fronts on my 2006 and want to get the correct Motorcraft hub in advance. It's my wife's daily driver so I must disassemble and reassemble on the same Saturday morning.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Mike -
HUB67 works for 06. The first few times I bought the 29 at 50-70% premium price over 67. For the past 7 years probably I have been using 67 on my 06 with no issues.
With proper tools it's an hour job, maybe less, assume 2 hrs if doing it first time.

 

[tripplec]

Are they the same design in 09 for AWD. I looked at RockAuto some time back when this thread started to see and saw some weird bearings also listed. Not a hub type with splines for the shaft. Hub type were mixed in somewhere as I recall but confusing.

 

[Explorer_PL]

From what I know, I am 99% certain that the front hubs are all the same for 06-10 regardless if its 4WD, AWD or 2WD. You can not get just the bearing for the front and press it out and in the new one. It all comes assembled with the sensor and the hub with 5 lugs. The rears come as just the bearing. You need to take the knuckle off, and put it on a press.

 

[tripplec]

Thanks, front sound as I have seen on others and even the old 02 Explorer (all in one with ABS sensor). Rear was news to me but good to know. We don't have a press but touch wood Murphy stays away from them hear. LOL

 

[Explorer_PL]

The front are easy to replace but cost more - $170 I believe on Amazon.

You can get the rear Timken for about $ 55. What I do is remove the knuckle, take it to a shop nearby and for $ 50 they do it for me, then I just put it back.
The 02-05 rear knuckle design was a nightmare to remove, 06-10 is much better design, and can be done quickly.
I took it the next level and bought L and R rear knuckles from a junkyard cheaply. If I hear one of the rear bearings go bad, I get the spare knuckle and new bearing pressed together, and then do the job. This way I do not have any downtime of going to the shop, waiting and going back with a borrowed car.
Parking brakes take time to get them back on the whole assembly.

 

[tripplec]

Well I was looking on eBay to see what was available and prices. Wow the front hubs are all over the place from ~50 dollars to ~300 dollars. There are rear bearing with 5 stud hubs offered everywhere as well but there is no visible connection for rear driving wheels that I can see.but showing a inner ring clip which maybe to hold the bearing in. I am going to look for a online service manual to see what all in there. It suppose to be for this build. Odd but I have plenty of time for research. I was thinking maybe this summer to pick up one as a spare to keep on hand should it be needed if not too expensive.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Front

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-H...?ie=UTF8&qid=1487206090&sr=8-1&keywords=hub67

Rear

https://www.amazon.com/Timken-51600...&qid=1487206200&sr=8-1&keywords=timken+516008

 

[michael loibl]

Thanks, for some reason I thought the wiring was not compatable, like maybe a different connector, but YOU are the undisputed expert on explorer hubs around here, so that's what I'll order. Thanks again

 

[Explorer_PL]

I said it somewhere else but most of the times when I replace them, I leave the old harness in place and just disconnect it at the hub. Just being lazy.

 

[tripplec]

Front

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-H...?ie=UTF8&qid=1487206090&sr=8-1&keywords=hub67

Rear

https://www.amazon.com/Timken-51600...&qid=1487206200&sr=8-1&keywords=timken+516008

Almost $400 on Amazon.ca where it automatically switches to rather than $190 on the US site. LOL Way too much here.

 

[tripplec]

There are a number of combo of bearing and hub like these. I presume the bearing press fits as you mentioned but there is a clip as well. Would this be a good solution with a quality bearing?
I can just see a portion what appears to be a spline while others not. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2x-2002-2010...ash=item2a74c4372a:g:DeoAAOSw2gxYoil8&vxp=mtr

 

[Explorer_PL]

The splines must be there inside the hub. The bearing itself is smooth inside and outside.
First you press the bearing inside the knuckle from behind pressing on the outer race until it stops on the knuckle edge , then you install the c-clip .
Then you press the hub while supporting the inner race.

Maybe these pictures will help.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...rom-a-salvage-yard-in-nj.439222/#post-3499425

 

[tripplec]

Seems more involved than I thought. I'll study this further over time.maybe have to see a mechanic doing it one time and go from there.