1956 F100 Explorer Chassis Swap

[56explorer]

Last night I got a good solid 4 hours to work on some tear down.

Hood meets Hood for the first time!!!

Here are the tools I used for all the destruction:

This includes:

SOCKETS AND RATCHETS
1/4" drive ratchet with 6" extension
1/4" drive 8mm, 10mm, 11mm deep-well sockets
1/4" drive 7mm, 10mm, 11mm short sockets
3/8" drive ratchet with 3" extension
3/8" drive speed handle
3/8" drive air ratchet
3/8" to 1/4" drive adapter
3/8" drive 5/16" deep-well "impact strength" socket for the fenders (worked much better than the equivalent Metric sockets for quick release - not pictured)
1/2" drive ratchet with two 4" extensions
1/2" drive "impact strength" 18mm short socket for bumpers

WRENCHES
10mm/8mm short combo with offset angle
10mm short
11mm short
18mm long

OTHER TOOLS
Small, Med, and Lg Phillips head screwdrivers
Ratcheting short Phillips (bottom center of pic) to get the bottom inner-fender wells
Razor blade cutting knife
Solid scraper
T-20 Torx bit used to remove V8 plate from top of motor (not pictured)
Awl and flat screwdrivers were used a couple of times (not pictured)
Plastic push pin remover thingy, I know what it is, but forgot the name...

PERFECT for getting those pesky, though nicely-designed, hardware removed. Here's some examples of how nice it is to use this. I probably used this 10 times as much as any other tool so far.

I made a little progress I'd say...

THIS is what I was looking for, although dusty, not something that had been in a wreck, mangled, or messed with.

I got tired about this point, gave up trying to figure out what socket size the "Oh ****" handle required. ANYONE HAPPEN TO KNOW??????

I did get a bit done on the interior, mainly started on the door sill areas, here's some of the aftermath.

 

[56explorer]

Tonight's update..... forgot to take my phone with me to the shop, so I got no pics. I removed the rear hatch, rear carpet, seat belts, carpet and some interior wiring was pulled and labeled. I found 39 more cents! I also found that a 7/32" socket works good for "Oh ****" handles!

That is all.

 

[woodco100]

Looking good. I have a 1996 Explorer, I could use some parts. You say the power windows actually work! I also have a 97 parts truck. I needed a better dash and electrical parts for my 49 Chevy panel truck on an Explorer chassis. Picked it up for $650 and AAA+ got it home for free. Gotta love free towing for 100 miles. Sold the motor for $200 to my mechanic. He even pulled it.

 

[56explorer]

Nice!!! Do you have build pics somewhere? My roadside assistance only tows up to 10 miles and I had to go 140 miles, so it was good to open it up and drive it to see how it did and find the things it needs. I don't think I can use the power window motors, so yes, they are available, how many do you need?

Does anyone know of any other Ford vehicles the steering wheel fits? Mustangs? T bird? Etc.

If anyone is interested in any other parts, I've tested everything out, selling locally on craigslist, but can ship the smaller stuff you might need.

 

[56explorer]

For those of you who are currently working on any Ford Truck from 1948-2012, especially 1953-1956, LMC Truck www.lmctruck.com and Mid Fifty F100 www.midfifty.com have a ton of parts as well as FREE catalogs that will have you drooling over all the pages. LMC also has an online catalog for Explorers too!!!

 

[56explorer]

So, tonight I set out to tackle the interior. I had all the tools from one of the previous posts already laid out and ended up getting out a few more. Here are the ones that I actually remember using besides the others from that pic. Pliers, pry bar, 3/8" drive ratchet with adjustable head and 10" extension, 13mm deep socket, 15mm deep socket, 15mm wobble socket, T50 Torx for seatbelts, and another tool I will call an "angled-prying-sharp-tool thingy."

Again, more money, last night there was 39 cents. Tonight $1.91. Total cash to date: $2.74! Woo Hoo!

I removed the two rear doors, seats, console, the remainder of the carpet and headliner. Looks like a cave! I haven't had anyone over to help with the tear down at all, so removing things like the rear hatch was an experience. I didn't get hurt OR hurt anything, I just did some moves I think I've seen only with Yoga or Pilates. Not something I really want to do again, lol.

Although I did not get a transmitter with the key I got with the Explorer, I guess this thing is equipped with keyless entry. Yay! I will definitely have to relocate a bit of electrical. (the rear washer tank has been removed and not making a blue mess of things now)

Nice and cleaned up of any hardware or wiring to get in the way of future cutting.

All the interior wiring has been removed or moved towards the front area. Again, the wiring is easily disconnected from the mounting surfaces with the "plastic push pin remover thingy."

All of the plugs have been clearly marked using HUGE pieces of masking tape to keep it all straight, as it may be months down the road before they are plugged in again.

 

[56explorer]

Tonight I tackled removing the electrical of the driver door, I would love to use some of the wiring to take care of power locks, windows, speakers, and how I would love to incorporate the keypad somewhere...

To remove the door panel, I used the "Plastic push pin remover thingy" (lol) tool to get behind the panel to safely remove the panel clips without damage.

It took me a minute to figure out how to take the door hinge wiring apart

But removing the top cap revealed the 10mm bolt that holds that madness together

The door is nearly completely gutted.

I started to take the wiring head-on to get it organized and out of the way. I labeled the connectors and then realized how complex it will be. I will need to get the dash removed anyway, so it will have to wait until I get onto that in the next few days. I don't want to damage the wiring during cutting, welding, or other accidents.

This is what it looks like at the moment, starting to lose it's identity!

 

[fordkid88]

Sweet work!

 

[Dave 1955]

Must be a mile of wire in there!

 

[fordkid88]

I found some info for you, I hope this helps.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1012027-info-explorer-frame-under-1956-f-100-panel.html

 

[56explorer]

Thank you fordkid88!!! I have seen that thread in the past, but I had forgotten about it. I remembered being a little confused about it, way back when I read it briefly. I will touch on some of that info in a later post.

I was busy over the last few days, up a couple times til 3am.... even later. I have been focused on the tear-down of the Explorer, planning, cutting, removing, etc. So, here is the recap.

My next goal was to remove the dash, so that the windshield could come out and not get glass into the crevices and ducts of the dash. I wrapped up some wiring and tucked it into the glovebox opening.

With all the wiring removed from the passenger kick panel area, I was able to clean up that area, most of which still connected to the driver area.

I have removed steering wheels before, many-a-time, NONE gave me a harder time than THIS ONE!!! I broke two steering wheel pullers and a third wouldn't keep a good grip. I ended up pulling the entire column. It was much less work. It still sucked.

If I haven't mentioned it already, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY PRIOR TO WORKING ON ANY ELECTRICAL.... ESPECIALLY WHEN DEALING WITH A LOADED AIRBAG. DON'T BE AN IDIOT. Moving on...

Photos taken for reference.

Removed

I used the Torx bolt in the center to apply pressure in the center and a two-clawed puller, but even after an hour of trying, no luck. WD40 was even used. I have ideas for this because I want to use a different steering wheel eventually. I just need to find a bigger hammer I think!!!

To remove the dash, I had to unplug this BAD BOY (the big plug with the handle)

It was easier to do once I found this article: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230020&highlight=firewall+wiring+handle

I actually ended up using 6 new wiring terminal connectors with wide blades that fit into the plug's release pins, holding them open to peel away the entire handle. Worked like a charm.

Be sure to unplug all the other wiring, vacuum hoses, etc. Once you are ready, remove the defrost cover, there are 3 (I think) 13mm hidden bolts with will require an extension and possibly a wobble socket. Then you have 3 more, 2 on the driver and 1 on the passenger side to release the bulk of the dash. I chose to remove the stereo, instrument cluster, and a few other things to reduce weight and center of gravity.

One last plug you can't see well until you are elbow-deep on the dash removal is for the bulk wiring harness for the driver side, doors and other electrical that leads to the rear. 10mm socket is the correct one to have ready for this.

A bucket came in handy to keep all of it in one place and keeping me from stepping on a plug inadvertently.

Dash removed and stored out of the way

Next post will relate to the windshield removal and more.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Suggest you go ahead and replace the heater core and pull the blend door to check for any cracks while you have the dash out. Preventative items could save you a lot of headaches down the road.

 

[56explorer]

Suggest you go ahead and replace the heater core and pull the blend door to check for any cracks while you have the dash out. Preventative items could save you a lot of headaches down the road.

That's a wise idea for sure. I will definitely do that!!!

 

[56explorer]

Windshield Removal Time

I knew there would be glass shrapnel while removing the windshield, so I covered the engine compartment with a painter's drop cloth. Didn't want glass down in the crevices that I might run into down the road. I used the door speakers to hold it in place.

I went the cheap route of using a basic razor blade rather than a real windshield cutting tool, so it took 5 times as long to remove. A special thanks to my brother for his help with the dash removal and windshield.

We also covered the air box with a trash bag to ensure I don't have so much glass dust blowing out the vents one day.

I almost decided to cut the windshield out but ended up using an air chisel with a wide and sharp blade to go around the edge, which was actually faster and cleaner than I expected, plus I only bled prior to that method.

To get a head start on the top removal, I finished cutting the windshield surround out.

I left an inch or so of the front posts just in case I might need it in the future (possible welding points in the 56 cab)

To keep from getting cut by the sharp edges, thick rubber gloves made a great cover and tucked into the hole. Yellow tape for a visual reminder.

The firewall area for reference

I bet my wife is happy about this!

This picture doesn't do it justice, this is prior to removing the other parts that aren't pictured. The next post will be about the complete top end removal.

 

[fordkid88]

Coming along like a boss.

 

[56explorer]

Coming along like a boss.

LOL, Thanks!

 

[56explorer]

Please keep in mind when working on heavy components of a vehicle, always have a spotter, helper, or a wife that will call 911 when she's done laughing at your mistakes. You don't want to wait until a search party comes to find you if you've become pinned under a heavy part.... or worse... the vehicle. Use safety with everything you do. Glasses, gloves, and proper use of tools. Do as I say, not as I do.

Removing the top... by myself. I told my wife if she stops hearing the saw for more than 5 mins without a text msg, to send for help.

First step was planning out the weight distribution and mounting of the supports. I used the shop's rafters to assist. I have tested the weight and deemed it capable of such. I attached chain hooks on the rear hatch hinges.

A medium-duty tow strap to hold the front half positioned in the rear corners of the rear door openings.

My first cut was the driver-side front door post. I will explain more on this in a later post. I am planning on using this post to retain the seat-belt mounting holes and structure. The angle of the cut is intentional and helped refrain from cutting through additional layer(s) of steel and my Sawzall doesn't do much curved cutting. A cutting torch/plasma cutter could have been better perhaps, but it's all I have right now.

You can tell if enough lift pressure is being applied by checking to make sure there is a gap after each cut. You don't want to get your blade stuck or have too much force either.

This is the last picture of the top prior to being removed from the building. I was able to walk it slowly down and out by myself, but I don't recommend it to anyone. You will be doing Yoga/Pilates moves that you didn't want to get into.

Top is GONE!

Now it's time to lift it up and secure it on jack stands. I'll be cutting the floor soon and need to disconnect and remove items that will be in the way.

Since the back end will be cut soon, I took a day to organize the parts that have been removed so far, put the front seats back in place, and labeled everything that I hadn't done yet. I separated bolts for each section and with enough pictures, I should be able to keep everything straight and easier to handle in the future.

Here are a few more pics after the cuts:

Next post will be on the removal of the rear half of the cab floor, wall, mounts and other related items.

 

[Dave 1955]

Holy cow!

 

[fordkid88]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...a_Mid60s_Mustang_Gas_Tank_In_A_1953_F100.html

Hey Buddy, I found this a few days ago, Im going to look into doing this on a first gen, but it dawned on me while I was at work that I hadn't posted it for you yet. I dont know what your plans are for this and that we have to deal with under frame rail leaf springs, but if you plan on going 4-link like Im trying to do this will help.

And here is some more swap info

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=287382&showall=1
https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckBBAS/non-html/1999/60_61.pdf

 

[56explorer]

Thanks fordkid88 for all the info!!! I would love to be able to really trick this thing out one day, but realistically, I will be using the Explorer "as-is" as far as suspension goes. All the money I'm going to have to put in obtaining the needed 56 parts will keep me grounded on modifying much on the Explorer. Perhaps later on I can tweak things a bit to get better performance parts. My main goal is to get it complete on a very limited budget and not drag it out for a long time. I need to find some of my pics that have more of the dimensions to post on here.

I need to catch up on the latest progress. I will post a little later this evening or it may be tomorrow, depending on what my boys "let" me do, ha ha ha.