1995 Explorer XL personal thread

[HarryN]

Thanks for the part suggestion. At the moment just trying to find where it attaches to the motor. The reason I asked about the insulation aspect is that I have some very good wire here that I could make a get me by connection - could strip if necessary.

Looking from the top today with the sun shining and an LED light, I can see where there might have been a bolt as the hole is threaded - but no bolt in it. It is just to the right of the green tape spot. It is further away than the length of the strap so also looking around for other options. Is this likely where the strap terminates ?

I have been searching the forum and youtube for a picture but so far still not so clear and I don't see the expected terminal on a bolt anywhere either.

It looks like it would run at near exhaust temps.

I can't fit under the vehicle right now as I can't jack it up on the hill very easily, so it would be handy to connect to the top of the engine vs from underneath.

It is the 4 liter engine I am pretty sure if that matters.
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And - just one for a laugh - I had reconnected the (-) terminal wire to do some probing around. Was way up by the firewall when the alarm decided to start going off less than a foot from my head - so that was exciting.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Thanks for the part suggestion. At the moment just trying to find where it attaches to the motor. The reason I asked about the insulation aspect is that I have some very good wire here that I could make a get me by connection - could strip if necessary.

Looking from the top today with the sun shining and an LED light, I can see where there might have been a bolt as the hole is threaded - but no bolt in it. It is just to the right of the green tape spot. It is further away than the length of the strap so also looking around for other options. Is this likely where the strap terminates ?

I have been searching the forum and youtube for a picture but so far still not so clear and I don't see the expected terminal on a bolt anywhere either.

It looks like it would run at near exhaust temps.

I can't fit under the vehicle right now as I can't jack it up on the hill very easily, so it would be handy to connect to the top of the engine vs from underneath.

It is the 4 liter engine I am pretty sure if that matters.
____________

And - just one for a laugh - I had reconnected the (-) terminal wire to do some probing around. Was way up by the firewall when the alarm decided to start going off less than a foot from my head - so that was exciting.

View attachment 438226

yep that alarm will scare everything out of you ive done that a few times or had the keys in my pocket and somehow i push the panic button

 

[HarryN]

yep that alarm will scare everything out of you ive done that a few times or had the keys in my pocket and somehow i push the panic button

I found the owners manual. It has an Avital 2100 alarm. Trying to remove it so that I can drive.

Going through the alarm manual and it is fairly sophisticated.

It appears to have a "starter kill" function and I think that this is what I am having problems with. (and the alarm going off of course)

That is my primary goal.

Might need to figure out how to get under this thing. Not excited about lifting it up on the driveway as it isn't flat.

 

[HarryN]

It finally stopped raining for a few days (and my back was finally working well enough ) to spend some time today on the Explorer.

I didn't have any prior experience with alarms, but reading in more detail and watching some YT videos, it became clear that the alarm has an interrupt for the starter. It works essentially be disconnecting the key switch operation.

So this evening I started to reach around underneath the dash to find that problem child alarm system. Located it but could not pull it down.

Eventually I started to take apart the dash - which is not a bad design but uncomfortable to do.

This led to removing the drivers seat - also not difficult but had to chase down the right sockets and wrenches.

Now the seat is out, the dash area under the steering wheel is removed, and the alarm and related wire bundle is free to work on.

Hopefully this weekend I will have it far enough along to start. Debating on just doing enough to get it running or a full uninstall. They did a good job on the install, but it is clear that they cut a lot of wires to splice in the alarm system.

 

[410Fortune]

good job getting it all apart
I have removed so many old alarm systems it is crazy to see how they are wired sometimes, vampire clips and crimp connectors

the ground strap goes from firewall to the back of the engine, mounting to the head
It really does not matter which bolt hole you use, there are actually several un used threaded holes in those heads.
The factory bolt hold location is on the back of the head just above the transmission bellhousing, similar to the dipstick hold down bolt on the other side

The only engine offered in 91-95 explorers was the ohv 4.0
In 96 the 5.0 came as an option and then in 97 the SOHC 4.0 was added

good luck and good job thus far!

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d completely remove it.

 

[HarryN]

Quick update:
- Pulled the wire bundle apart
- Traced and marked all of the associated wires
- The actual alarm pin out does not match the manual, but fortunately the correct pin out is molded into the plastic case
- Cut out / removed the bulk of the wires and alarm
- Connected up the two wires for the starter interrupt circuit with a butt connector. Kept this wire long in case I decide to hide an on / of switch in the future.
- Re - connected the starter battery

Amazingly - it started. I am very happy.

Will work on clean up and putting things back together tomorrow if the rain stops.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Quick update:
- Pulled the wire bundle apart
- Traced and marked all of the associated wires
- The actual alarm pin out does not match the manual, but fortunately the correct pin out is molded into the plastic case
- Cut out / removed the bulk of the wires and alarm
- Connected up the two wires for the starter interrupt circuit with a butt connector. Kept this wire long in case I decide to hide an on / of switch in the future.
- Re - connected the starter battery

Amazingly - it started. I am very happy.

Will work on clean up and putting things back together tomorrow if the rain stops.

Glad it's fixed man congrats

 

[HarryN]

A few photos of the process of removing the alarm in case it is helpful to others in the future.

There are no big insights here for anyone that knows what they are doing but perhaps a good reminder for me in the future.

The first photo has the plastic dash cover and metal plate under the steering wheel removed. The alarm ( marked with some green masking tape ) and wire bundle is pulled out.

The second photo - wires are unbundled and labeled so I can keep track of things. Really should find a better way to label wires.

 

[HarryN]

Photo on the left - main start wire crimped with a panduit non insulated butt connector. That will definitely not come apart.

Photo (middle ) - 3 M heat shrink with the hot melt glue inside, plus some labels. My heat gun was at the shop so I had to use a lighter to shrink it. That 3M shrink tube is rated for nearly mil spec conditions, so a non issue for an explorer.

Photo (right) - Cleaning up. It was nice having the seat out to do some sweeping. It was especially nice just plugging the sweeper into the power system and not having to string out the extension cord.

 

[HarryN]

Left photo - mostly assembled. Steel cover plate back in place. Somehow lost a screw so need to find one. Decided to drive it this way for a while to make sure that it all works. I am tempted to install an on / off switch under the dash to lock out the starter as a theft prevention, but decided that it was more important right now just to be able to drive.

Center photo - Some surprisingly good zip ties available at ACE hardware in Livermore. Rated to ( - 40 C ), which is what I normally try to find for components or better.

Right photo - random helicopter that was circling around. We usually don't get that many partly cloudy days here, it is usually completely overcast or completely clear, so I was taking a picture of the clouds when it rolled in. I guess they were bored and it was interesting to watch me fix the explorer.

The entire process was much easier than what I had been trying to do - I was mistakenly focused on the components under the hood vs under the dash.

Thanks to images 2 go for the free on line photo crops and shrink so that it can fit on the forum.

 

[HarryN]

FYI - did some clean up of the storage unit:
- Explorer 60 / side rear seat is now gone
- With it, 2 seats from the old van (the one that had been totaled )
- Center console from the Explorer
- Misc other stuff filling up a pick up truck to the dump

 

[EB4X]

THANKS! I have an aftermarket alarm in mine I might get around to removing and this will be helpful

 

[HarryN]

THANKS! I have an aftermarket alarm in mine I might get around to removing and this will be helpful

It is actually very easy to do - I just was making it difficult.

In Jan and Feb the spine Dr did some injections so this helped to ease the pain / helped with mental clarity on this project.

Frankly - it was not motivating to work in the rain on a sloped driveway either, but my wife got tired of me re-setting the seat position in her car.

The plastic dash cover that goes over that stamped steel cover is held on by a few screws from under neath, and then just pulls out from the top. I was a little bit concerned that it would crack (nearly 30 years old ) but it was fine. You can always just start by pulling off that cover if you can reach all of it - but removing the seat is pretty easy and makes access a lot easier.

All 4 seat bolts came out easily, but on a vehicle this age, they could have been rust frozen in place as well. You just never know.

 

[DemonMudder]

It is actually very easy to do - I just was making it difficult.

In Jan and Feb the spine Dr did some injections so this helped to ease the pain / helped with mental clarity on this project.

Frankly - it was not motivating to work in the rain on a sloped driveway either, but my wife got tired of me re-setting the seat position in her car.

The plastic dash cover that goes over that stamped steel cover is held on by a few screws from under neath, and then just pulls out from the top. I was a little bit concerned that it would crack (nearly 30 years old ) but it was fine. You can always just start by pulling off that cover if you can reach all of it - but removing the seat is pretty easy and makes access a lot easier.

All 4 seat bolts came out easily, but on a vehicle this age, they could have been rust frozen in place as well. You just never know.

Aww, remove the seat? That ruins the fun of being in the seat completely upside down squished between it and the steering wheel to reach everything down there! From experience in both that exact process and about the same in the ol' 15hundo, I agree that was the best route, I'm younger and it still even hurts me, work smarter not harder lo
Rust is definitely a concern, though being inside they'll be a bit better about it, should be at least..

 

[HarryN]

The test drives went fine.

Tried to start it yesterday and no power, so must have either left a light on or similar.

Went to the shop and picked up my 75 amp @ 12 volt continuous IOTA charger. That thing will revive most battery situations.

Opening the hood has been problematic but I thought that I was past that - apparently not.

Today it rained fairly hard and tonight tried to get it open - still trying. Have to admit that I wasn't in the mood to have difficulty with opening the hood.

For better or worse, it has happened to others so the forum offers plenty for me to read. Tried a few and will continue.

Some links to threads on ways to get around the hood latch being stuck:

Hood latch- hood does not pop up

Is there a spring on the hood? My hood does not pop open. The hood latch (lock) works fine with the hood open; when I lock and unlock the latch

www.explorerforum.com

Hood release

Ok, so I've been dealing with the loose/stripped hood release wire. It's no longer working, the hood is just stuck shut. what can I do?

www.explorerforum.com

Hood Jammed Shut..

I need help my hood is jammed shut and I cannot open it. I was putting in new rubber hood bumpers that mount to the radiator support, I guess I had them adjusted to high and slammed the hood shut. Now the hood will not open, I have pulled on the hood release, banged on the hood and tried...

www.explorerforum.com

1998 hood release

Want to change oil and pulled hood release - no workie - tried pushing down on hood while someone pulled hood release, still no go. Hood absolutely not moving, how do you get the hood open when this happens? Hood release felt no different than before, just got to limit of travel and nothing...

www.explorerforum.com

How to: - Open hood without cable - Help! Hood won't open!

The hood on my 97 Ex won't open...i have tried pulling on the cable, with vise grips, having someone else push on the hood while pulling the cable, sticking a prybar between the hood and grille and applying gentle pressure, and a ridiculous amount of WD40. does anyone have any other tricks or...

www.explorerforum.com

Hood struts

As most Explorers, my hood struts are out. I replaced some strong working hood struts from the junkyard and swappedthem out. They still dont work. hese were working fine before, why wouldn't they work now? eBay has them new for 20 or so bucks each. Worth it?

www.explorerforum.com

 

[410Fortune]

Pita!! Usually can reach in with a small screwdriver and release the latch. Good to see so
Many threads about it. You could always convert to hood pins of the latch/cable continue to give you fits.

Well done thus far!!

 

[Mbrooks420]

A second person to flex on the hood while trying to trip the latch is helpful. My parts Mounty hood cable broke and I tried to get it open for too long.

Ended up smashing the grill out in a fit of automotive rage. I’d try a different approach.

 

[HarryN]

I am thinking about attempting to send some power to the starter battery from the cab at a trickle type charge rate.

Kicking around some ideas:
- The 12 volt cig lighter - usually those can handle 5 - 10 amp max continuous
- Perhaps via the fuse box on the far left side of the drivers side dash ( red box in the photo in post 110 )

I have a 15 amp dual pro charger that I can rig to connect to various things.

Comments are welcome.

 

[Mbrooks420]

You can definitely back charge it. If it’s totally flat you’ll probably need to use the port on the passenger side footwell. The dash mounted one is key on power and won’t turn on if the relays can’t cycle.