1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

[97Sandbox]

Had a decent salvage yard day today. Still no 4x4 M5R2, so rebuilding the one that's in the Mounty is going to be the likely path. I'll start a specific M5R2 rebuild thread for that when the time comes. I also have a 2wd unit to refresh for my Sport's V8 swap, so that thread will be very in depth for both varieties of M5R2.

Anyway, onto the good stuff. I got a good driver's side fog light to replace the dirt/moisture damaged one on my Mounty. You'd think I could have taken one off my other '98 parts Mounty, but that one is already missing the driver's side fog light haha. I also got a returnless fuel rail for my upcoming V8 swap in my '00 Sport (injector connectors too). I also snagged all the lower intake studs that are prone to breaking so I'll have spares when I inevitably break one. Lots of other misc 302-specific hardware too -- it never hurts to have backup.

And the reason I'm posting in this thread, is I finally figured out which OEM oil filter adapter is the one we want to run an FL1A off an early ('96-'98.5) filter stalk!

You need the threaded piece from a 3.0 Vulcan. Probably other applications, but I can confirm the 3.0 piece works and they're easy to get to in a Ranger engine bay. I tried to take one from a 4.0 OHV, but they don't have the same internal (7/16" or 11mm?) hex so there's no good way to spin them off. The adapter on the 4.0 SOHC is larger, and won't thread into the 5.0 stalk. So if you don't want to buy a new one, grab one off a 3.0 Ranger next time you're in a salvage yard.

I'll do a detailed installation post when I'm due for the next oil change and/or finally ready to redo my A/C (the latter will likely come first).

 

[410Fortune]

Holy smokes I was just about to crush this vented 3.0 ranger engine…. Glad I saw this now I’m gonna snag the oil filter adapter first

The one allmyexes suggested is incorrect lol

 

[97Sandbox]

The only thing I noticed is the 3.0 adapter doesn't have any kind of "stop" feature on it, so I'm going to make a tack weld in the middle of the threads and run that up against the filter stalk. I think that'll keep the adapter in place once it's snugged down so then it won't spin when removing/installing filters.

I'm not super familiar with the 3.0 other than doing oil changes on a '99 Ranger and '01 Sable owned by friends. I'll never forget my buddy's Ranger making so much valve noise in college and I asked him when he changed the oil last. He said he didn't remember, so I said let's just do it. When we drained the old stuff out, there was less than 1.5 quarts in it...I believe capacity for the Ranger is 4.5. that explained the noise haha.

He had driven it that way from Denver to St. Louis and back twice and then from St. Louis to where we lived west of Kansas City. After the oil change, the engine sounded fine though. He still uses that Ranger as his work truck today. They may not be powerful, but I'm convinced that 3.0 will run forever.

 

[410Fortune]

Well… I replace 3.0 all the time. They are not as strong as our 4.0 or 5.0… but they are decent like most ford engines
I often get them with a big hole in the block, they develop oil pressure issues,’usually from people not doing enough oil changes
Lower end knock is pretty common on 3.0 after 150k miles or so… others last forever (when owners change the oil at 3500-5000)

 

[allmyEXes]

The picture of the pair of adapters that I showed are, the left one is off of a non heat exchanger 5.0 that has a double ended 3/4" filter adapter screwed in it and the right side is off of the 1997 Mountaineer 5.0, heat exchanger type, that I stripped off the heat exchanger and screwed a
3/4"x3/4" part into too.

Below is one off them being worked on. Josh P may have said another.

 

[97Sandbox]

I've been keeping an eye on my coolant overflow tank over the last few months and noticed it very gradually depleting. It's not dripping on the ground or turning my oil into milkshake, so I'm thinking it may be the intake cooler line leaking internally which a number of you all have warned about.

I finally looped the hoses, which I really should've done before the intake went on. It's kind of a tight area to work under the intake, I'm glad I have some offset long-reach pliers.

I'll continue to keep watching the tank and see if this does the trick.

 

[DintDobbs]

@97Sandbox I just dealt with a super slow coolant leak on my '00 SOHC recently, mine was getting through the sensor threads on the top of the thermostat housing. Couldn't see it without a mirror. Look everywhere, you'll find it!

 

[97Sandbox]

I've got an oddball issue that's cropped up in the last couple of weeks.

I first noticed when one day I couldn't roll the windows down after I had started the Mounty. Then I shut it off, took the key out, reinserted and tried the windows again with the key turned to run and they worked. I drove again a few days after and had the same issue, but at that point I was driving at night and realized the courtesy lamps weren't working at the same time the windows wouldn't work.

To me, the odd nature of sometimes working and other times not suggests a bad ground. So I dug into the wiring diagrams and found that the power windows and courtesy lamps share the same ground, G204.

I pulled the kick panel and found the ground and it looked surprisingly not corroded, especially considering I've seen moisture in that area after heavy rains before. For good measure, I undid the bolt, sanded to bare metal, and put the ground back. No difference.

Looking back at the wiring diagrams, I noticed the power windows and courtesy lamps both use the battery saver relay. Thinking maybe the relay is bad, I swapped the old one for a new one and again saw no difference.

I messed around some more and this is what I'm observing consistently:

• Get in car, turn key to ACC, windows and courtesy lamps work.
• Turn key to run, everything still works.
• Start car, courtesy lights turn off (with door left open) and windows stop working. I also noticed the door ajar indicator light turns off (with door open), but the door ajar chime still works when a door is opened.
• Turn key to off, then back to run or ACC and still nothing works.
• Remove key then reinsert and turn ignition to ACC or run, everything works again.

Anyone ever deal with something like this? I'm feeling puzzled.

The only other common thread I'm seeing is splice S246. I'll try to track that down and make sure it doesn't look like a mouse has been snacking or something like that.

 

[allmyEXes]

Is that the GEM (general electronics module) wiring diagram?
I see it now bottom left of the diagram.

 

[97Sandbox]

I should clarify, when I start the car, the lights don't immediately shut off. The engine starts, then after a second or two I hear a relay in the dash click and the lights go off. It isn't till I turn the car off, remove the key, reinsert, and turn to run that I hear a relay click again and the lights come back.

 

[allmyEXes]

@410Fortune On my wife's white '97, sometimes when you shut it down, then you can hear a relay kind of up above the column and behind the instruments making an on off racket. I don't see anything's blinking, but you can definitely hear it. I haven't researched the problem. Maybe Jamie could shed some light on this problem. Mine sounds very similar.

 

[DintDobbs]

Just taking a random shot in the dark here, but you don't suppose it could be an issue with a door latch, do you?

Also might want to look into that big cylinder of wires in the driver's door hinge, that sucker can be the source of all kinds of wacky issues. I've never encountered any, but many other EF users have had to go three rounds with that baby.

On my 2000 Limited, the door chime doesn't sound when the ignition key is left in unless it's held in a certain spot (probably worn ignition switch, don't care, haven't checked) but it still chimes when the door is opened when the headlamp switch is left on. Engine must be off for either to work. I haven't actually looked to see if the dash light comes on when a door is opened. Not sure if similar issue or not, but it's the only thing I've heard of that's even close.

And this issue of yours occurs consistently, every single time?

 

[Turdle]

I also suspect door jamb wiring. Also, if you have a slider adjuster in the rear view mirror, disconnect that mirror connector to see if lights symptoms change

 

[DintDobbs]

@Turdle's suggestion also crossed my mind, but I can't think that should be related. However, you did not make any mention of whether the issue occurs the same whether the headlamps are on or off; have you investigated that?

 

[97Sandbox]

The issue happens consistently in the way I mentioned above. It took me a bit of trial and error to figure out the order of operations, but nothing has changed since I did figure it out.

My auto mirror has been disconnected since I bought the Mounty. The pigtail is tucked into the overhead console bracket and I have the standard rearview mirror from an Ranger.

The fact that there's an audible relay click when the interior lights and windows stop working and another when they come back makes me think it's not just door jamb wiring. It does the same thing door open/closed and headlights on/off. Also worth noting I have checked all the relevant fuses and not found any blown.

Whatever the issue is, there's at least one relay getting a signal that it shouldn't be. Bad ground? Short in the GEM? I'm really not sure.

 

[Turdle]

With engine running, open doors one at a time .
Don't forget hatch, and, hatch glass, they have door latch switches too.

Do all doors and hatch, glass cause a chime when opened?

 

[97Sandbox]

I will check!

 

[Turdle]

Should have said " open , listen for chime, then close " one at a time

 

[CDW6212R]

It sounds like more than one issue, and all ideas are good things to look into. At this age all relays and switches are suspect. You did right to check and change a couple of relays. There are others too like the auto down module(in the GEM), so modules like the GEM are having issues.

Check the door/hatch latches and striker bushings for proper operation, that's a wise step for everyone with a 90's car. That LF door jamb connector is full of critical wires for the windows and door locks, be gentle with that, some vehicles have major wiring issues there, some none at all.

It's good to have some spare parts for these kinds of problems, a spare GEM and lots of relays will be precious soon.

 

[410Fortune]

The clicking you hear could be the battery saver relay “working” meaning it is seeing a draw and shutting it down… like when a door is left open and a light is left on the bsr is supposed to kick in and, well save your battery.
I’m not saying it is working properly. I’m just saying that relay could be the click and the reason the lights finally go out

Would be a good idea
To take the lid off the aux relay box and put your finger on it when the click happens so you can confirm what is making the audible
Click noise

My guy says it’s something in the drivers door master switch or wiring? These kinds of issues can be so difficult to solve! Good thing we love a good puzzle